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ESB blaster resin build


TD-4395

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it's always better to just get some flat bar.

you have here the maker of things kit? is that right?

 

looks nice! pay attention to the details for painting up a blaster, and are you going weathered? or new?

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I have no clue of the maker if the kit, ut was generiousally gifted to me by someone here on the forums, who got it from ebay. All i know is its not doopydoos the only part that is is the magizene parts. I am gonna go with the weathered look.

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In fairness this is an ESB E-11 and there were a few ESB E-11's with this wide scope rail. Of course I can't find the thread with the full pics now, but here's a close up I had on my photobucket -

 

xM6Dq0s.jpg

 

Although the pic is zoomed in this is an ESB e-11 and as you can see the scope rail is wider than the standard ANh blasters...

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Although the pic is zoomed in this is an ESB e-11 and as you can see the scope rail is wider than the standard ANh blasters...

Yes...that's true...the ANH blaster has scope rails in the wide of "0.59/1,5cm...the ESB has a wide of "0.79/2,0cm

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ah its allready set off to get painted. I didnt realize there was a difference in thickness for the scope rail. I just was researching it and found that someone said 3/4" so that was what i went with.

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Well, I'm the friend Tyler is refering to. I played around with some steel and aluminum bar tonight and ultimately, decided to go with some .125 thickness ABS.

I cut it the same width as the rear site and notched it to fit in the site. I then used a heat gun to bend the front and also notched it. I then dremeled out a hole for the notch at the front of the rail to fit in.

Tyler had installed 2 posts in the top of the barrel under the old rail for support, but I removed them and filled the holes with some plastic epoxy.

The scope was then drilled and mounted to the rail with 2 small screws and washers. The rail was then mounted onto the gun with a small screw at the rear notched area and plastic epoxy at the front notch.

I used this pic as a reference, The Master Replicas version...

XhwIUOf.jpg

 

Here is how it came out...

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TBsCOUi.jpg

ftnFEjN.jpg

Xc5IIde.jpg

 

I will clean it up a bit more and then it will be ready for painting.

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Update....

After some more light sanding, a wash with a mild soap/water combo and a coat of primer, I hit the whole gun up with a coat of metallic silver.

Also dremeled out the area for the cocking lever and spring...

rwzAWBg.jpg

udBr4xZ.jpg

ZLJ7Teq.jpg

VgC1c6q.jpg

qkWUh3z.jpg

 

After some more light sanding, shot it with a base coat of flat black krylon fusion...

1xN5Hcx.jpg

VcSgE0q.jpg

L69cClW.jpg

pTWR24y.jpg

 

 

Gonna do another light sand and get a good coat of a satin metalic black on next, then a little silver dry rubbing o the high spots.

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Finished up Tylers resin E-11 today and just wanted to post up the finished pics.

After a top coat of Metallic Black, I detailed it with some metallic silver dry rubbing. The scope was dry rubbed with an oil finish bronze.

Also installed some spring sections in the dremeled area for the cocking lever to give it the appearance up a spring.

Cut the spring into 1/4" sections, drilled small holes along the top and bottom of the slide, staggering them.

Here is the finished product...

KNGy92E.jpg

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cu6nFsk.jpg

zrcJcUk.jpg

eT46sAX.jpg

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the grips on a sterling are always black, and should be glossy.

 

they are made out of glossy plastic.

 

it always looks good with a little worn and non glossy areas on the grip to simulate weathering.

 

also the T Tracks should not be weathered silver.

 

silver is also not the color, it should be gunmetal.

 

nice attention to detail!

 

only other aspect I'd go for would be the crayon white letters on the top of the scope.

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I know that some of the blasters used had rubber or plastic T-track, but others used metal track and as can be seen here in pics provided by John Danter, the T-track does show signs or chipping and weathering with the metal showing through.

WyTe8Iu.jpg

Tm3Zns7.jpg

 

The weathering is a very personal taste and for me, I like the look or a worn battle tested gun. A little of our own personal taste is a good thing. Otherwise, if we all made our gear EXACTLY like what is seen on screen, it would be pretty boring. Just my 2 cents.

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  • 1 month later...

I know that some of the blasters used had rubber or plastic T-track, but others used metal track and as can be seen here in pics provided by John Danter, the T-track does show signs or chipping and weathering with the metal showing through.

Sorry, but the ESB blaster's T-track is not metal, just grey resin. You can see that in other pictures from the same set. The guy who made the run of replicas wrote that the blaster was cast as one whole piece and so were his very limited set of replicas.

 

The blaster in the other picture does not have T-track but square U-channel. All guns used at Elstree were rented and were stripped from their greeblies afterwards. That gun must have had replica greeblies added before the auction, like other original blasters sold at auction did.

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I don't understand why we're looking at reference pics of a stunt greeblie E-11 when the build in this thread is a film version.

 

Sure, they've got the same scope, grip and stock, but that's where the similarities end...

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those resin guns show chips on the t tracks whith resin showing

not steel. also those guns are recasts.

 

 

 

 

the london U chaanel gun

WAS NOT USED on set.

 

 

 

it was created after the films by bapty but never in a star wars film

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Whether it is chipped gray resin showing through or metal is irrelevant. The point is it IS chipped and worn on the tracks and that was how I weathered this weapon.

Besides, I wasn't going for uber accuracy here, just a cool looking battle worn weapon.

Edited by Quartermaster
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