TD-4395[501st] Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Blaster is almost ready for paint i shall be posting pics tonight of pre paint assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4395[501st] Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Heres the pics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4395[501st] Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 srry for the crappy ipod pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 Looks good, brother! I don't mean to pee in your cheerios, but that scope rail looks a little wide to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4395[501st] Posted January 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 thats ok it very well might be, but it is what it is. I tried to cut it exactly at 3/4" but theres always that human factor lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 it's always better to just get some flat bar. you have here the maker of things kit? is that right? looks nice! pay attention to the details for painting up a blaster, and are you going weathered? or new? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4395[501st] Posted January 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 I have no clue of the maker if the kit, ut was generiousally gifted to me by someone here on the forums, who got it from ebay. All i know is its not doopydoos the only part that is is the magizene parts. I am gonna go with the weathered look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4395[501st] Posted January 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 ya at the time i was trying to come up with a good cheap way to do the sight rail than i saw the aluminum cork backed ruler, just removed the cork, trimmed it to about 3/4" and there it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeroRoom[TK] Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 In fairness this is an ESB E-11 and there were a few ESB E-11's with this wide scope rail. Of course I can't find the thread with the full pics now, but here's a close up I had on my photobucket - Although the pic is zoomed in this is an ESB e-11 and as you can see the scope rail is wider than the standard ANh blasters... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthChridan[TK] Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 Although the pic is zoomed in this is an ESB e-11 and as you can see the scope rail is wider than the standard ANh blasters... Yes...that's true...the ANH blaster has scope rails in the wide of "0.59/1,5cm...the ESB has a wide of "0.79/2,0cm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4395[501st] Posted January 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 ah its allready set off to get painted. I didnt realize there was a difference in thickness for the scope rail. I just was researching it and found that someone said 3/4" so that was what i went with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeroRoom[TK] Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Yes...that's true...the ANH blaster has scope rails in the wide of "0.59/1,5cm...the ESB has a wide of "0.79/2,0cm Don't worry about it man - you're spot on: 0.79"/2.0cm = 3/4 of an inch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4395[501st] Posted January 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Its getting replaced with a skinnier metal bar a friend offered to replace it for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quartermaster[501st] Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Well, I'm the friend Tyler is refering to. I played around with some steel and aluminum bar tonight and ultimately, decided to go with some .125 thickness ABS. I cut it the same width as the rear site and notched it to fit in the site. I then used a heat gun to bend the front and also notched it. I then dremeled out a hole for the notch at the front of the rail to fit in. Tyler had installed 2 posts in the top of the barrel under the old rail for support, but I removed them and filled the holes with some plastic epoxy. The scope was then drilled and mounted to the rail with 2 small screws and washers. The rail was then mounted onto the gun with a small screw at the rear notched area and plastic epoxy at the front notch. I used this pic as a reference, The Master Replicas version... Here is how it came out... I will clean it up a bit more and then it will be ready for painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quartermaster[501st] Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Update.... After some more light sanding, a wash with a mild soap/water combo and a coat of primer, I hit the whole gun up with a coat of metallic silver. Also dremeled out the area for the cocking lever and spring... After some more light sanding, shot it with a base coat of flat black krylon fusion... Gonna do another light sand and get a good coat of a satin metalic black on next, then a little silver dry rubbing o the high spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quartermaster[501st] Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 Finished up Tylers resin E-11 today and just wanted to post up the finished pics. After a top coat of Metallic Black, I detailed it with some metallic silver dry rubbing. The scope was dry rubbed with an oil finish bronze. Also installed some spring sections in the dremeled area for the cocking lever to give it the appearance up a spring. Cut the spring into 1/4" sections, drilled small holes along the top and bottom of the slide, staggering them. Here is the finished product... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4395[501st] Posted January 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 It looks perfect. Thanks again cant wait to to see it in person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 the grips on a sterling are always black, and should be glossy. they are made out of glossy plastic. it always looks good with a little worn and non glossy areas on the grip to simulate weathering. also the T Tracks should not be weathered silver. silver is also not the color, it should be gunmetal. nice attention to detail! only other aspect I'd go for would be the crayon white letters on the top of the scope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quartermaster[501st] Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 I know that some of the blasters used had rubber or plastic T-track, but others used metal track and as can be seen here in pics provided by John Danter, the T-track does show signs or chipping and weathering with the metal showing through. The weathering is a very personal taste and for me, I like the look or a worn battle tested gun. A little of our own personal taste is a good thing. Otherwise, if we all made our gear EXACTLY like what is seen on screen, it would be pretty boring. Just my 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BananoPower22[TK] Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 To each their own really. I think the gun looks amazing! I really wish I could weather mine like that but I've got 0 weathering skills! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Lars[501st] Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 I know that some of the blasters used had rubber or plastic T-track, but others used metal track and as can be seen here in pics provided by John Danter, the T-track does show signs or chipping and weathering with the metal showing through. Sorry, but the ESB blaster's T-track is not metal, just grey resin. You can see that in other pictures from the same set. The guy who made the run of replicas wrote that the blaster was cast as one whole piece and so were his very limited set of replicas. The blaster in the other picture does not have T-track but square U-channel. All guns used at Elstree were rented and were stripped from their greeblies afterwards. That gun must have had replica greeblies added before the auction, like other original blasters sold at auction did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Hilarious Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 I don't understand why we're looking at reference pics of a stunt greeblie E-11 when the build in this thread is a film version. Sure, they've got the same scope, grip and stock, but that's where the similarities end... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 those resin guns show chips on the t tracks whith resin showing not steel. also those guns are recasts. the london U chaanel gun WAS NOT USED on set. it was created after the films by bapty but never in a star wars film Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quartermaster[501st] Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 (edited) Whether it is chipped gray resin showing through or metal is irrelevant. The point is it IS chipped and worn on the tracks and that was how I weathered this weapon. Besides, I wasn't going for uber accuracy here, just a cool looking battle worn weapon. Edited March 15, 2012 by Quartermaster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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