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Sky Trooper CRL

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SKY Trooper CRL:

  • The armor parts shall be made from one of these types of materials or like materials:
  • White fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), or HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene.

 

HELMET

  • A unit stripe in a medium gray shall be present on the cap of the helmet. The unit stripe starts between the eyes and above the brow and flares out to cover the outer edges of both back traps. (trapezoidal indentations) and ends at the ridge of the cap where the back meets and extends below the bottom of each trap.
  • Variant to the cap unit stripe: You may have a thin silverish white stripe running through the center of the medium gray unit stripe, from the front to the back of the cap.
  • The two side traps (trapezoidal indentations) are kept white.
  • Variant to side traps: You may have a small black horizontal stripe inside of the side traps.
  • Lens may be flat or bubble, smoke or green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumers eyes.
  • Below the brow, and in between the ears and eyes, a gray trapezoid with a black outline shall be present. These maybe a decal or hand painted or decal that replicates hand painted.
  • Frown is painted black and overlaps the teeth area, with the front of the teeth being highlighted in medium gray. Eight teeth on the frown are cut out.
  • The chin area shall be painted gray.
  • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
  • Chin shall have two hose ports, one on each side of the vocoder, where the ribbed black hoses connect.
  • Tube Stripes, there are two variations that you may have:
  • Variant 1. A solid medium gray stripe, running the length of the tube, with the ends slanting toward the ear. These may be a decal or or hand painted, or a decal that replicates hand painted.
  • Variant 2. Straight stripes, black in color, with medium gray in between the black stripes, numbering between 9 and 16 and slanting toward the ear. These may be a decal, or hand painted, or decals that replicate hand painted.
  • The “ear” bars may have three or four bumps, shall be gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
  • Tears (area beneath the corner of the eye lenses) are gray with a black outline and have vertical black lines inside the gray area. These maybe a decal or hand painted or decal that replicates hand painted.
  • Mesh maybe used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • Note: The FX helmets is considered deprecated (to be avoided) though is acceptable for Legion requirements.
  • Ears shall have no visible screws.
  • The ends of the frown shall be rounded, not tapered to points (not like ANH).
  • Ear bars shall four bumps only, not three.
  • FX helmets are not allowed.
  • MRCE and/or EFX PCR helmets are not allowed.
  • ANHv2 helmets are not allowed.
  • Lenses shall be bubble, green only.
  • Ear bars shall have only one or two bumps panted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim shall be an s-type profile, rather than a u-type profile.

 

NECK SEAL

  • Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adams apple.

 

HOSES

  • The hoses shall be ribbed, black in color, with a 1.25”/ 3.2 cm diameter and be 18” to 21”/ 45.7 cm to 53.3 cm in length. They shall connect from the helmet hose ports to the chestbox side ports.

 

CHESTBOX

  • Main body of chest box shall be white.
  • Rectangular box with a rounded bottom, approximately 7” high, 7.25” wide, 2.5” deep, or 17.8 cm high, 18.4 cm wide, 6.4 cm deep.
  • The top edges of the Chestbox are angled at approximately 45 Degrees.
  • Two round medium gray buttons are present on the left side of the top of the chest box.
  • The front of the chest box has five 1” square x 1/8” thick detail pieces, or 2.5 cm square x 0.3 cm thick detail pieces.
  • The configuration of the detail pieces from center to right is:
  • white - center lower
  • gray - top, black lower
  • red - top, red - lower
  • There are three rocker switches (one black, two red) on the left side. The configuration from center to left is: black, red,red.
  • There shall be two small, round, white buttons on the bottom of the black and outer red rocker switches.
  • At the lower part of each side of the chestbox, there shall be a black gear-like greeblie.
  • From the center to the left side of the tube, there shall be 9 medium gray vertical stripes.
  • On the bottom left side of the tube, just below the medium gray vertical stripes, there is a small angled protrusion, approximately 0.75” high x 2” wide, or 1.9 cm high x 5.1 cm wide.

 

SHOULDER STRAPS

  • These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.
  • No visible rivets are allowed.
  • Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%.
  • These shall be affixed in the front (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).
  • These shall be affixed in the back (no snaps, rivets or brads shall be visible).

 

SHOULDER BELLS

  • One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.
  • A unit stripe, medium gray in color, running through the center and flaring out at the top, shall be present.
  • Shoulder bells are rounded at the corners.
  • No shoulder bell straps across the biceps.
  • Shoulder bells shall have foam padding inside.
  • Shoulder bells shall be slightly pinched and should be worn slightly higher, compared to the ANH/ESB

 

BICEPS

  • Biceps are fully closed.
  • A unit stripe, medium gray in color, located on the outside of the biceps, shall be present.

 

FOREARMS

  • Forearms are fully closed.
  • A unit stripe, medium gray in color, shall be present on the raised design area that has indention.
  • A unit stripe, medium gray in color, shall be present on the cover strip/overlapping areas.
  • No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

 

HAND PLATES

  • Hand plates shall be medium gray in color.
  • There are two variances of the hand plates. You may choose from one of the variances, but may not mix the variances:
  • Variant 1. Clamshell or snowtrooper-style hand plates.
  • Variant 2. Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material.

 

GLOVES

  • Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
  • Gloves shall be rubber or rubber like chemical gloves in black.

 

CHEST

  • Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate.
  • A unit stripe, medium gray in color, shall be present on the chest plate. It will start at the bottom of the center of the chest plate and flare out closer to the neck.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges, bottom, both sides and neck area.
  • Fabric or elastic strip connecting chest to back shall be either black or not present.

 

BACK

  • Back plate contains a "O II" design.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges, bottom, both sides and neck area.
  • Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.

 

UNDERSUIT

  • Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs.

 

ABDOMEN PLATE

  • The ab plate has a button area that matches the color pattern shown (3 dark blue + 6 black or all black); buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter.
  • The three dark blue buttons will be the three buttons closest to the belt.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.
  • Ab plate button detail shall be inverted compared to ANH/ESB.
  • There shall be no visible split rivet/brad on the cod/crotch and no visible rivets or brads on the left or right side of the ab plate, unlike ANH/ESB.

 

KIDNEY AND BUTT PLATE

  • It is allowable to have a separate kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it shall line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate.If a separate butt plate is used, it should be below the bottom of belt and line up with the kidney plate, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate.
  • The crotch tab of the butt plate area may or may not have visible snaps.
  • A separate kidney/butt plate is not allowed - the kidney and butt plate shall be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece.
  • A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip shall be present around all edges.
  • The edges of the hip area should be rounded/curved (not like the straight lines found on the ANH/ESB butt plate).
  • There shall be no visible side rivets on the kidney plate, unlike ANH/ESB suits.
  • There shall be no visible snaps, rivets or brads on the crotch tab of the butt plate tab.

 

BELT

  • Belt face is made of plastic (TK ammo belt).
  • Belt proper is made of canvas, canvas covered material, leather, or vinyl, between 2.25" to 3" wide. The color is to be white to off-white.
  • The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.
  • Belt shall be tightly woven nylon/cordura style material, or may be canvas, or canvas covered, and the color is to be white to off-white. Leather or vinyl are not acceptable.
  • Belt shall be between 2.25" and 2.5" wide, not 3" as in ANH/ESB.
  • Belt shall be a tightly woven nylon/cordura style material, and the color is to be white to off-white.
  • There shall be no square buttons covering the belt rivets (there shall be two rivets, one on each side of the ammo belt).
  • Corners of ammo belt shall be cut at right angles, not 45 degrees as in ANH/ESB.
  • Drop boxes are closed in the back.

 

THERMAL DETONATOR

  • (a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is a gray cylinder between 2" and 2.5" in diameter with white end caps and a white control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap.
  • The thermal detonator needs to be attached via metal clips approximately 1 inch wide, and shall be all gray without silver stickers or silver paint.
  • The thermal detonator control panel shall have correct ROTJ details, not ANH/ESB.

 

THIGHS

  • Thigh armor shall be closed in the back.
  • A unit stripe, medium gray in color, running vertically and center of the front and rear of both thighs shall be present.
  • The ammo belt shall be installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
  • The thigh ammo belt shall be medium in color.
  • The thigh ammo belt shall be connected by brads/split rivets only - standrad rivets are not acceptable.
  • The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

 

LOWER LEGS

  • Greaves close in the back. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the left greave and may have two visible brads or rivets securing it to the greave.
  • A unit stripe, medium gray in color, shall be present on the front of both greaves. The stripe is centered, running vertically, and flaring out as it gets closer to the knees.
  • Trapezoidal knee plate (sniper knee plate) shall be medium gray in color, with the small ridge style pattern at the bottom of the sniper knee plate, left white.

 

BOOTS

  • Leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole with a short heel, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
  • Boots shall be medium gray in color (even the heel and side of sole).
  • There shall be no seam on the front of the boot (eg. CABoots are not allowed).
  • Boots shall be lightly scuffed.

 

Holster

  • It is allowable to have a holster for the 501st requirements. If a holster is worn, it will be made of black leather or leather-like material
  • Holster is not allowed.

 

ROCKET JETPACK

 

Mitrinomon Z-7I

  • Based on the Mitrinomon Z-6 Jetpack, but the anti-vehicle homing missile/magnetic grappling hook was removed in the Z-7I and a modified, larger fuel tank was added.
  • It is allowable to use the Merr-Sonn Munitions JT-12 Jetpack for the 501st requirements. But shall have the 9mm warhead removed and the modified, larger fuel tank added. The JT-12 Jetpack should have the bottom thrusters removed and replaced with the correct side thrusters.
  • Note: The Z-6 is the model that Boba and Jango Fett used. The JT-12 Jetpack was the model that Mandalorians Death Watch and Jango Fett also used.
  • The body of the Jetpack shall be white.
  • A wide vertical strip, medium gray in color, shall be located on the center back of the Jetpack.
  • Two, wide, black vertical stripes shall be located on either side of the medium gray center stripe.
  • The two large indentions, just above the vertical black strips on the fuel tank, shall be a medium gray.
  • Black horizontal stripes shall be present on each side of the Jetpack. There are two variances to the black horizontal side stripes. You may choose between these two variances, either 9 or 11 stripes per side. Each side shall have an equal number of stripes.
  • The JT-12 model may be used, but the bottom thrusters shall be removed and replaced with the correct side thrusters.
  • Jetpack thrusters shall actually work and jetpack shall be able to actually hover for at least 30 seconds.

 

Optional Accessories:

 

WEAPONS

 

BlasTech DC-15A

  • Blaster rifle may be scratch built out of plastic, wood , metal or cast in resin.
  • Total length should be approximately 55 “ or 139.7 cm
  • Hyperfirms are allowed
  • Because of the scale, the Hasbro version is not allowed.
  • A total of 10 radiator fins shall be present on the barrel.
  • A power setting adjuster shall be present.
  • The correct style of sniper scope shall be present.
  • Charge magazine lock shall be present on the left side.
  • Power setting adjuster, sniper scope and charge magazine lock shall be metal to gun metal gray in color.
  • Sniper scope should be able to be removed from storage position (bottom of rifle) and be able to be attached to the top of the rifle.
  • Parts of the spare igniter shal be copper in color.
  • Front optical sight should be able to flip to the up position. Any bolts and screws should be a metal to gun metal gray in color.
  • Should have some battle wear.

 

BlasTech DC-15S

  • Blaster rifle may be scratch built out of plastic, wood , metal or cast in resin.
  • Total length should be approximately 26 “or 66 cm.
  • Hyperfirms are allowed.
  • Because of the scale, the Hasbro version is not allowed.
  • Folding stock (does not need to function).
  • A total of 12 radiator fins shall be present on the barrel.
  • Spare igniter shall be present on both sides of barrel.
  • Charge magazine shall be present on the right side.
  • Charge magazine should be a metal to gun metal gray in color.
  • Any bolts and screws should be a metal to gun metal gray in color.
  • Parts of the spare igniter shall be copper in color.
  • Should have some battle wear.

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All - it's critical that everyone review this and offer up feedback. Especially on new to the Legion costumes, while the LMO, dashrazor, and RogueTrooper have worked diligently to get every detail right, we are human after all.

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ROCKET JETPACK

 

Mitrinomon Z-7I

  • Jetpack thrusters shall actually work and jetpack shall be able to actually hover for at least 30 seconds.

Say whaaaat! hahaha

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Say whaaaat! hahaha

 

yes!! my jetpack actually only has 28 seconds of flight time, but i hope to increase it to 30 soon.. i need to adjust the fuel mixture a bit.. :laugh1: good one Tom, and great work on the CRL ;)

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ROCKET JETPACK

 

Mitrinomon Z-7I

  • Jetpack thrusters shall actually work and jetpack shall be able to actually hover for at least 30 seconds.

 

Say whaaaat! hahaha

 

 

Winner Winner Chicken Dinner, Chris. :salute: When I wrote out the criteria for the Sky Trooper CRL, I just thought I would have a little bit of fun and see if anybody would catch that. :laugh1: It was basically the same thing in the August newsletter, but it seems that no one caught it until now. ;)

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When I was reading that my girl was taking a nap beside me and I woke her up from the chuckle I got out from that haha. I thought it was a great addition to the gambit. Also - Great job on the build too Mason! Gotta give props when they are due.

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my jetpack in reality runs on really greasy burritos

 

DSC_2377-taqueria-burrito.jpg

96_invisble-jet-pack.gif

 

:laugh1:

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my jetpack in reality runs on really greasy burritos

 

:laugh1:

 

All this time I was thinking that the jetpacks used Tibanna gas..Not Taco Bell :laugh1:

 

6a00d8341c630a53ef0115722417d8970b-pi.jpg

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Tom, and great work on the CRL ;)

 

Thanks Mason, you did a great job on the Sky suit build, :salute: and it looks like you had fun as well!!

 

I had fun coming up with the CRL, plus making up a name for the Jetpack (Z-7I) and finding all the answers to the details and greebles.... now that was enjoyable! :D

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thanks Tom, i am still working on the fine details of the suit, and improving my dc-15.. im going to keep refining the sky suit until i am happy with it. then move on to something else

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I'd like to suggest shortening the hoses is the #1 detail I can spot.

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I'd like to suggest shortening the hoses is the #1 detail I can spot.

yes, i need to source more flexible hose as well. it is far to rigid and makes it nearly imposable to move my head.

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I'd like to suggest shortening the hoses is the #1 detail I can spot.

 

This detail actually came from the Jolly Rogers (Tie Pilot CRL)

 

Black Ribbed Hoses with a 1.25" diameter and 18" to 21" in length from the helmet hose port to connect to the chestbox upper hose ports.

 

Link to Tie Pilot CRL: http://www.501st.com...I_TIE_Pilot_ANH

 

 

 

 

Here is what I have for the Sky:

 

"The hoses shall be ribbed, black in color, with a 1.25”/ 3.2 cm diameter and be 18” to 21”/ 45.7 cm to 53.3 cm in length. They shall connect from the helmet hose ports to the chestbox side ports."

 

I think why they have the hoses the different lengths is because they can differ due to the height of the person. If someone has a longer neck or different build to their body, they may need the different length to the hose, if not they may end up walking around with their head craned down.

 

Just like Mason said, a more flexible hose will also help the costumers to have the mobility to turn their head. I have been doing some research on hoses. What I have found to be the best and closest is what they use for Koi ponds. They are ribbed, the right diameter and are flexible. I came to this conclusion, since Ainsworth put together the Tie Pilot helmet and chest box, and the Stunt TK lids were used out of the same material that Ainsworth used to make Koi ponds, and that is more than likely where he found the hose for the Tie Pilot, as well.

 

Flexible Koi pond hose.

 

Kink%20Free%20Flex%20Hose.jpg

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i just ordered the koi pond hose off ebay for 2.00$ a foot (didnt want to buy a 20' roll) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Koi-Pond-POND-PUMP-HOSE-1-1-4-NON-KINK-1-ft-Sections-/120356243225?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c05ca8719

 

looks like a great match and a logical choice.. there's a good chance this stuff is the real deal used on the original tie helmets

 

Tom if i didnt know better i would say you were a Vulcan :P

Spock Jedi.JPG

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i'm making a TIE helmet now, so i just ordered a bunch of that hose to try out. If I like it I'll probably get a 20' roll to have on hand for other builds. I may use it for my clone pilot too, rather than making my own.

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Just a couple of questions is anyone manufacturing or producing the jetpack and the chest boxes? Is the chest box the same one used for the TIE pilot/Rebel pilot or is it something totally original? I am going to start on this this weekend and before I go any further wanted to see if any of our fellow troopers are making these items or if they are all being made by the individual. Being a bounty hunter for over 5 years and having built several, I am use to us producing our our costume parts. Thanks for the help

 

Ron

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Are you asking for just 501st CRL, or for above and beyond? For 501st a standard TI chestbox should be fine just like a regular Jango backpack. Mason did some mods as he wanted to exceed that and at least do EI level work. I'm sure he can chime in on what was changed, as it would help others follow this path.

 

Speaking of which - Mason you ever get around to doing an EI app for this?

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Thanks for the heads up, I am thinking about doing a mod on one of the JP's and pulling a mold in the next couple of weeks for the sky trooper jp. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't stepping on any members project.

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Just a couple of questions is anyone manufacturing or producing the jetpack and the chest boxes? Is the chest box the same one used for the TIE pilot/Rebel pilot or is it something totally original? I am going to start on this this weekend and before I go any further wanted to see if any of our fellow troopers are making these items or if they are all being made by the individual. Being a bounty hunter for over 5 years and having built several, I am use to us producing our our costume parts. Thanks for the help

 

Ron

Are you asking for just 501st CRL, or for above and beyond? For 501st a standard TI chestbox should be fine just like a regular Jango backpack. Mason did some mods as he wanted to exceed that and at least do EI level work. I'm sure he can chime in on what was changed, as it would help others follow this path.

 

Speaking of which - Mason you ever get around to doing an EI app for this?

 

Hi Ron,

 

To answer the question, does anyone manufacture the Jetpack and chestbox identical to the Skytrooper Jetpack? The answer is no. The Skytrooper Jetpack is basically Boba Fett's jet pack that he used and the first Jetpack that Jango Fett had in AOTC (the one destroyed in the fight between Jango and Obi Wan on Kamino). The Jetpack is Mitrinomon Z-6 Jetpack (see below) with the grappling hook/missle removed, and replaced with the octagon style top to it (larger fuel tank), then painted in the white/grey/black scheme of the Skytrooper.

 

When I wrote the CRL, I knew that some people might have a the second Jango Fett Jetpack (Merr-Sonn Munitions JT-12) the one that was in the arena scene where Jango is beheaded by Mace. The Jetpack that was used in that scene is basically the same Jetpack as a Mitrinomon Z-6, but the thrusters are a different style and are placed differently, not on the side but underneath and a few details to the main body are different. Plus, the warhead is different. But, like I said, I knew that some people may have a Jango Fett's second style Jetpack and may want to do a Skytrooper. So for the basic CRL, you could use either model, but have to modify the top to either one to have the look of the Skytrooper Jetpack. If you are going step up to the EI or higher, then you will need to start with a Mitrinomon Z-6 Jetpack and modify the top, or a Merr-Sonn Munitions JT-12 style and modify the top and the thrusters.

 

jetpack1.jpg

 

As for the chestbox, basically you can use a chestbox from anyone of the vendors/makers that you can get Tie Pilot parts from or AT-AT Driver parts. It will have to be white or painted white with the correct greeblies and color scheme. Or, you can follow Mason's way that he did his, which was using a PVC pipe and make a box to match the configuration of the chestbox.

 

Chestbox.jpg

 

Have fun Ron with your Sky Trooper build, I can't wait to see it!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

@Paul: With some of the findings that I brought up about the Skytrooper, Mason has been working on adding little details to his suit, so that it best represents the EI. Mason is particular, so he wants to make sure that it is right.

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Where would we be without you Tom? :salute:

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where can this mitrinomon z-71 pack be sourced from and at what price point ? someone pm if info is available?
jetpack1.jpg

 

never mind ,:)

Edited by TROOPER 138

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I see that EFX PCR helmet is not allowed.  Would an old FX helmet be allowed for this build?  The helmet for this CRL looks oversized or am I mistaken?  That is why I am asking.  I have my FX helmet I did not build for regular TK.  I wondered if it could be used for this?

 

Best Regards,

Michael Rose

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2 hours ago, mjrose927 said:

I see that EFX PCR helmet is not allowed.  Would an old FX helmet be allowed for this build?  The helmet for this CRL looks oversized or am I mistaken?  That is why I am asking.  I have my FX helmet I did not build for regular TK.  I wondered if it could be used for this?

 

Best Regards,

Michael Rose

Unfortunately not.

CRL: FX helmet is no longer permitted for new approvals.

You can find the complete CRL for this costume here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_skytrooper

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