Squigs Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) Where can I get an E11 rail for the doopydoos kit? The blaster is the last thing I need. Thanks in advance, David. Edited July 7, 2011 by Squigs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-4431 Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 I made my own. Went to home depot and got a strip on aluminum for about $3.00 and bent it to the shape I needed. Worked great. Hope this helps. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKCHEN Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 "Aluminum Flats 1/8 x 3/4", you can get this at most of the hardware shop, etc: home depot.... then follow the tutorial , you will got your scope rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) I think if someone made them for sale, it would be a huge hit. I, for myself, can't do ANY metal work at all. I don't ever the knowledge, nor the tools. Edit: And I'd need one too Edited July 7, 2011 by Sonnenschein Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sith_241 Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) I could do them i think, though shipping might be kinda high. Let me see what it will entail cost wise Also, which tutorial are you referring to? Edited July 7, 2011 by sith_241 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sith_241 Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 I could do them i think, though shipping might be kinda high. Let me see what it will entail cost wise Also, which tutorial are you referring to? If someone has the measurements needed to fit the doopydoos kit, i will make a prototype today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 A version for the pipe templates would be nice, too. Or do they match? That would be cool if someone finally offered them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconoclasta_88[TK] Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 I plan to do mine on 3mm styrene. Cut, bend and fit... Do you think that would work? Saludos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 I plan to do mine on 3mm styrene. Cut, bend and fit... Do you think that would work? Saludos. I thought about that. But 3mm look too thick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconoclasta_88[TK] Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 I thought about that. But 3mm look too thick 2mm??? LOL!! I have many different styrenes at home, will just find the right one. But thought about the 3mm cause it is sturdy enough to hold the scope and counter. Maybe I will go to the home depot and look for other materials. Thinking about aluminum. I will be starting my doopydoos pipe E11 as soon as my pipe arrives! Got a 40mm pipe from dashrazor. Saludos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 I think the new doopy do's kit needs an inner barrel, false bolt end and inner spring. anyone want to purchase that from me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 I think the new doopy do's kit needs: 1. An inner barrel. 2. false bolt end. 3. inner spring. 4. sight rail(s) 3 different versions. 5. hengstler counter brackets. 6. power cell wires. what do you think a reasonable price would be for all these items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKCHEN Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 one more thing: usually the bended end of the rail should fit in the last cooling-hole, but in this doopydoo full version kit, that hole is already filled by t-track, so I think you may need either cut a slot or drill a hole for it, or bend a "z" and put a scew, otherwise I don think the rail can stand very stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) when I make this version I'm going to re-sculpt the top rail T Track and the Scope Rail metal will extend inside the barrel, and down into the inner barrel for extra strength. then it's just the pressure holding from the front, while the rail bolts down at the rear with a 5/10 nut. the inner barrel also will have a false inner bolt, so the cocking handle can extend with a pin into that for extra strength. "wouldn't it have been cool if filmfreak created the bolt separate, then we could have a working cocking action." the new doopy works well with 3 different types of sight rail. 4 if you mod the top rail T Track. 1 double 90d bent at front and rear, using 1/8 steel rivets front and rear. 2 curved front low rider. notched at front, swooping front bend and bolted at rear. 3 modified 90d at front/ bolt to rear 4 mod T Track top rail, 90d bend Edited July 8, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf[501st] Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 one more thing: usually the bended end of the rail should fit in the last cooling-hole, but in this doopydoo full version kit, that hole is already filled by t-track, so I think you may need either cut a slot or drill a hole for it, or bend a "z" and put a scew, otherwise I don think the rail can stand very stable. Copy that. I have a DoopyDoo E-11 kit here as well, i have assembled it. But i need a scope rail as well. I guess i will do the "z" version, so there still the accurate amounts of holes in the gun barrel. I have try to bend a rail in hips, and abs, bit whit no luck. I will try to find the metal one, but not sure i got the tools to cut it right/good looking. Troop on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) a vise. a hacksaw. a dremel. a pattern. aluminum flat bar. a drill. some duct tape. a hammer. to bend metal in a vise: score the bend with the hacksaw so it forms a line or score mark. tape the score mark with duct tape to protect from vise. align score mark in vise. tap with hammer in the correct position towards the score mark. the score mark helps the metal bend along the line and the hammer should be applied carefully to allow the aluminum to bend down towards the score mark. Edited July 8, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squigs Posted July 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) All I have is duct tape and a hammer! The blaster project is going to have to go on hold for a few weeks until I have money or gain the will to sell things on ebay again. Edited July 8, 2011 by Squigs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobojuice Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 a vise. a hacksaw. a dremel. a pattern. aluminum flat bar. a drill. some duct tape. a hammer. to bend metal in a vise: score the bend with the hacksaw so it forms a line or score mark. tape the score mark with duct tape to protect from vise. align score mark in vise. tap with hammer in the correct position towards the score mark. the score mark helps the metal bend along the line and the hammer should be applied carefully to allow the aluminum to bend down towards the score mark. Nice advice, Vern. I'll be working on this in the next few months and really wasn't looking forward to bending some metal. This is going to make it much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sith_241 Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) a vise. a hacksaw. a dremel. a pattern. aluminum flat bar. a drill. some duct tape. a hammer. to bend metal in a vise: score the bend with the hacksaw so it forms a line or score mark. tape the score mark with duct tape to protect from vise. align score mark in vise. tap with hammer in the correct position towards the score mark. the score mark helps the metal bend along the line and the hammer should be applied carefully to allow the aluminum to bend down towards the score mark. If you have the ability, using a torch while bending helps you get a tighter bend. But, you have to be very careful doing this. Also, a tip when bending aluminum cold: The slower you make the bend, the harder the metal in the bending area gets, making the force required to do a tight bend increase by about 4x over the course of a 90 degree bend. To combat this, once you have scored and started your bend, you should make the rest of the bend in one smooth motion for best results. This may take some practice. Using a torch, as i mentioned above will combat this hardening effect, but you have to be careful not to warp of oxidize the aluminum too badly. Edited July 8, 2011 by sith_241 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) I don't use heat. just a vise and light even taps with a hammer. the long part is below in the vise, and the short end is bent flat and anvil style hammered till it's flat. if anyone wants a bent sight rail with scope holes but with an un finished rear end I can make them for 10.00 plus shipping. the score line placed on one side and on the bottom side of the bend, helps to keep the bend flat and even. the taps with the hammer are light and on the end of the strip. as the part bends over, you keep tapping at the proper angle and keeping it light, the aluminum bends easy with about 4-5 taps. Edited July 9, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billhag Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) On 7/6/2011 at 9:49 PM, Squigs said: Where can I get an E11 rail for the doopydoos kit? The blaster is the last thing I need. Thanks in advance, David. David As most have said, they are pretty easy to make, with or without a workshop . I've made so many that I've lost count and you only really need the basic tools. Here's the 'How to' I put up back in 2008, I know it may be a little outdated but it does show you the basics and you can adapt it to what ever E11 that you may be building --------- Hope it helps Edited July 24, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinSivertsen[501st] Posted July 10, 2011 Report Share Posted July 10, 2011 Great! I'm at that point in my build now, and I will try to follow your three year old tutorial, Billy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthChridan[TK] Posted August 4, 2011 Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 (edited) On 7/9/2011 at 6:59 PM, Billhag said: David As most have said, they are pretty easy to make, with or without a workshop . I've made so many that I've lost count and you only really need the basic tools. Here's the 'How to' I put up back in 2008, I know it may be a little outdated but it does show you the basics and you can adapt it to what ever E11 that you may be building Hope it helps Woah Billy... great tutorial...that is really helpfully. Thanks so much for sharing especially the matter with the counter mounting. Regardless of whether three years old or not....it's cool. Edited July 24, 2021 by gmrhodes13 link not working removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted August 6, 2011 Report Share Posted August 6, 2011 the eggsperts are awesome as always! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ean Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 I used a piece of Stainless steel strapping for my Doopy kit, Will try and picture later today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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