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Painting doopy blaster parts?


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I thought it best to ask since i am tired off messing up whenever i try and paint a doopydoo kit or part.

 

My question is this, what do i have to do to the resin parts before i can paint them?

 

I ask because as stated above the paint reacts with something and causes me to get mad at it. Thanks in advance.

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For mine, I just washed them in a light detergent, let dry, glue (E6000), then primer (3 coats) then paint. For paint I did two coats of rustoleum metallic silver and gold (gold for the scope) then covered it with rustoleum satin black.

 

For pics see here (scroll down to the blaster portion)

 

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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I thought it best to ask since i am tired off messing up whenever i try and paint a doopydoo kit or part.

 

My question is this, what do i have to do to the resin parts before i can paint them?

 

I ask because as stated above the paint reacts with something and causes me to get mad at it. Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

The issue is that the parts will no doubt have a residue of MOULD RELEASE which must be removed. There are many different types of release used but they all have the same benefits for the caster (eases extraction of the cast part & increases mould lifespan) and the same procedure for removing it from the parts, which is thus;

 

Soak/scrub in a DEGREASING LIQUID using an old toothbrush. There is a lot of info online about different brands, just google it. Even "SIMPLE GREEN" works ok and is kinder on your skin.

Next, rinse well in WARM water (hot may soften and warp small/thin parts) and THEN soak/scrub with dishwash liquid detergent in warm water to remove the de-greaser.

Rinse well and let air dry (you can speed this by blowing away excess water with compressed air - use gloves......DON'T blow compressed air directly onto your skin as it can be very dangerous!

 

There you go, all ready to prime and paint. ;)

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I sanded mine down and then washed it in warm water and fairy liquid, then left it outside "on the ground" less distance to fall!!! ;)

 

Painted with few coats of silver then black...looks great!!!

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I lightly sanded with the 1600 grit, washed, let dry, and painted using Rustoleum for plastic, no primer needed. If I do it again, I'll put a base of aluminum/silver down first so any natural "weathering" from use shows through.

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I pretty much do the same thing. I sand with 400 grit, then assemble using CA glue or E6000 and screws / pinning. Wash with dish detergent, rinse with water & hang to dry. Never use a towel as they can leave lint. 2 coats of primer, then 2 undercoats of silver or bronze / gold, then top coat with satin black, then weathering. Always go with light coats in multiple passes rather than 1 heavy coat.

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First I filled any unwanted holes, nicks or scraches with the premixed Bondo in a tube. Sanded litely & washed with a wet paper towel several times. I used a 2part 5 minute epoxy to attach all resin parts to the gun. I primmerd with Walmart brand spray paint about 4 coats. Then spray painted about 7 coats of silver & finished off with 5 coats of flat black. Make sure all your paint coatings are lite & dry before applying the next coat. Heavy coats will glob, run, & not dry right. I've used Walmart brand of paint on my blasters & other projects. .98 a can & never had a problem with it :dancing-trooper:

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I pretty much do the same thing. I sand with 400 grit, then assemble using CA glue or E6000 and screws / pinning. Wash with dish detergent, rinse with water & hang to dry. Never use a towel as they can leave lint. 2 coats of primer, then 2 undercoats of silver or bronze / gold, then top coat with satin black, then weathering. Always go with light coats in multiple passes rather than 1 heavy coat.

 

 

Good advice Panda...

 

Never thought of using E6000 on resin, but then I've only just got hold of my 1st tube and not yet tried it out (bought for the AM Kit).

 

Just one comment about sanding though....be careful how much you do and where as there is often a surprising amount of EXTREMELY fine surface detail in some castings. The kind of stuff that won't show up until you start to detail paint.

Save as much as you can, if you go down the road of dry-brushing etc... you'll be glad you did! Check my Blaster build post for example. no sanding prior to etch primer. Yes, there are a few bumps and pinholes to deal with (but that's just me being impatient!) :P

 

Just my $0.02

 

btw, sooooo great to be able to share all this sort of stuff, both ways on here. I've picked up so many tips in the last week my head is spinning! Cheers to all....

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Yes, good point on the sanding details. I just do enough to give some "tooth" to the resin as I find the Doopys parts a bit glossy in finish. You can use E6000 on resin, just sand and spread the E6000 on both parts, let it set a bit, then join the parts and clamp.

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Thanks for the advice. I used the above method and i had no problem. Instead of primer i used silver and applied it with short light coats till it was completely covered. No reaction, nothing.

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Thanks for the advice. I used the above method and i had no problem. Instead of primer i used silver and applied it with short light coats till it was completely covered. No reaction, nothing.

Good news there, well done :D

 

The other thing to be aware of is that PVC itself (if you use that for the base pipe) is INHERENTLY resistant to paint adhering to it, and will therefore loose paint more easily than other materials. I'm thinking I may use Aluminium (Aluminum to many of you guys ;) ) for my Trooping blaster and leave the PVC version for display only.

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Try using self etching primer, it usually has a stronger bond. make sure to sand PVC or ABS before painting and clean it as well.

 

I'll be painting my ABS pipe blaster soon, so i will report the performance of paint adhesion.

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