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My 1st (501st!) E-11 Blaster


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Thanks team, still a few things to do......need to source T-Tracks obviously, pierce out the front sight (or scratch build one), make the cylinders and a few other tidiness issues.

Looks good I think but would not survive being dropped! Everything is glued and screwed (epoxy/hotstuff) but still pretty fragile.

 

It's 100% NON-functional - thought I'd go easy on myself for the 1st time :D (which will be why it only took 3 days).

 

Waiting for my AM TK Lite kit to arrive so guess I should have stretched this project out a bit longer!

 

Cheers from NZ

Edited by TKXXXX
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Thanks again for all the comments. I'll try to answer your questions;

 

Yes, the "wear" is DRY-BRUSHING. Silver over black.

Filler used is "MILLIPUT" - awesome stuff, 2 part epoxy putty which works like clay (you can even use water to smooth it out) and then sets rock hard in a few hours (best to leave overnight).

I also use an excellent 3M product called "Acryl-Green Spot Putty" (and Acryl-Red) for small, shallow holes etc.. it's an automotive product for fine finishing work. Very fast drying, thin with acetone.

 

As for the painting the general idea was to achieve a faux "PARKERIZED" effect, rather than a painted look. Let's face it, firearms are not usually painted (except some scopes). They are usually blued or Parkerized.

I therefore wanted to keep the thickness of the paint to a minimum. (Okay, maybe not screen accurate for ANH but my aim is to have a "real-world" blaster).

 

Undercoated with a thin etch primer (grey) and then all the "hard to reach" areas were brushed black before the whole thing was sprayed with a sandable black primer ("Plasti-Kote" brand).

This leaves a nice thin, even coat without overdoing it while trying to get in all the nook & crannies. All too easy to do.

 

There are no real "paint chips" because it's not supposed to look painted. Instead I used Dry-Brushing to pick up the remaining texture of the "metal" and the wear areas like corners and edges. And when I say "dry" brushing, I mean DRY.

Many people fall into the trap of overloading the brush. It should be dipped (Humbrol Silver Enamel in this case) and then SCRUBBED hard on a cloth until it FEELS dry. You will want to have dedicated brushes for this because it wrecks them for

anything else! Then lightly brush starting with the heaviest wear areas and moving around as the effect diminishes. Practice makes perfect ;) I've overdone it in the pics above, but will take the whole effect down a notch and post an update soon.

 

Think I'll also give the scope a painted and chipped effect too.

 

Cheers!

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Nice work, I'm building a pipe kit too! Your build turned out great.

 

I'll probably reference this build on the academy site too!

 

 

Thanks ! BTW, I'm following YOUR AM TK build as reference for mine (when it finally gets here). :D

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**** UPDATE ***

 

...still finessing the paint job. Pistol grip now blacker and polished (as Bakerlite), powdered graphite rubbed on highlights and flat surfaces, then dry-brushed again! Also polished the grip with auto wax (hey, why cheat something if you can do it for real!)

 

Nice effect to get some more variation in the colours, the black of the grip against the gunmetal, subtlety is the key, need to get some more "grime" into the crevices too.......anyway, looks better in the flesh. Hard to photograph properly ;)

 

For anyone wondering, the REAL key to realism is DEPTH. Get those (thin) layers on and mix up the shades, highlights, gloss levels and textures.

 

Will need to have the finish "fixed" using a fixing lacquer spray of some kind. Research required......

 

4619273563_352b535b27.jpg

 

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4619274843_78da16009f.jpg

 

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Again, plenty more pics here; http://www.flickr.com/photos/dallaspoll/

 

 

BTW, big ups to Casey at Doopydoos for the brilliant castings !!!!! (Plug, plug)

Edited by TKXXXX
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