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Building a Replica TD helmet


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So, after puting together 5 buckets, I finally got the courage to start this project I've been dreaming about for years now: Building a replica helmet.

 

This will actually be just like a rehearsal to learn how to work some new techniques and to study all the details in the painting and detailing process of a replica helmet. I will try to emulate all the leaks and tears and scratches and mistakes that ANH helmets have. Trying to make it look like if it was a production helmet 33 years old.

 

Having said this, I must add that this helmet was not trimmed by me, only put together and now in the process of painting it. So many details as the dreamy eye, the size of teeth and the actual shaping of ears and all is not THAT accurate. Already tried to fix it but, well.. it was trimmed in an not so cool way.

 

And one more thing juast to prevent any debate, I cant confirm if this bucket is an original sculp, or a recast. It was given to me as a gift, and I think it is a great helmet for what it is. Like it a lot and as mentioned, will be a rehearsal to maybe next making a replica out of a TE2 or a TM... hopefully.

 

 

So. Lets get started:

 

Fisrt, This is what I want to achieve (picture from SW helmets of course):

 

 

 

And this is the bucket before it was painted (next to my TE2):

 

 

 

I first had to paint it with the HDPE color of the original material used to make buckets in 1976. So I got a very close color match from "rustoleum specialty for plastic" color Taupe. So just prepared the bucket, light sanding, cleaning and paint. No primer this time cause the paint instructions claim it didnt need it. Direct to plastic paint, it says.

 

The results were very cool I think. Check this picture.

 

 

 

Next, I will use a liquid latex paint to mask the scratches and all... And then paint it white.

 

What do you think?

 

 

Saludos

 

 

 

to be continued...

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Update...

 

I painted with liquid latex-like paint all the details on the bucket that I wanted to show the original HDPE color like cracks and all that. It was lots of fun and not very difficult. I was very exited at this stage. Planning where would look like what and all that.

 

I planned two different approaches:

 

For places were the khaki color will completely be shown, and... For this, I will finish the paint jobe and just remove completely thye latex afterwards, exposing the paint under the white coat.

 

For places were you can tell there was a crack, but then was repaired, showing the khaki color under a light layer of white and sometimes a real crack on the plastic. For this, I will remove the latex from the places I want to show as repaired cracks, and then give it a light white coat over all. Therefore, allowing the khaki to show a bit.

 

So this is how the bucket looked with latex applied:

 

 

 

 

Then, I used Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel Gloss White, followed all the instructions, knowing that this is not the easiest paint to work with. Shaking it for almost 3 minutes non stop. Then applying light coats instead of a thick one... etc...

 

So, ears attached, lets go paint:

 

 

 

But something went WRONG!!

 

Mos Eisley, we have a problem...

 

To form the drops of paint to copy those on the original helmet, I think I applied to much paint at once in the same place. So the drops appeared, but also some sort of "fish scales" on it.

 

I guess you can unerstand when I say I was completely frustrated with it, to say the less:

 

Here is how it looks:

 

 

 

This happened in a few places. Like 6 or 7 places all around. Different sizes and shapes.

 

So, for me, there are two ways to go now:

 

1. Ignore this and pretend it was on purpose to give it more character and make it looks older, or

2. Sand this places and paint again.

 

The thing is, I had this paint broght from the USA cause they dont sell it here, and its not possible to buy it on line and have it send here. And I just have less that 15% of the can left. So... I am affraid to make another mistake and completely ruin the bucket. At least the paint job...

 

This is how it looks now anyway:

 

 

 

Not so bad huh?

 

So..

Has anyobody worked with this paint before and had this happened?

Does anybody knows a better solution for this.

Is sanding it a good option... or even more:

 

Does anyone really think this scaling gives the bucket character and looks "accurate-ish" considering this is supposed to be a replica and not for trooping???

 

Big THX for any help, feedback or comments!

 

Saludos.

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Looks like the paint was applied too heavily, and reacting with the coats underneath. If it's in an area that's on top of the latex, just leave it - since you peel it off anyways.

 

If it's on an area that's "finished", I would personally remove it by sanding it down. I don't think I would have replicated the paint drips by spraying it with more paint since you can't control where the paint drip will appear very well. I think I would have used a small brush and overload it with paint, and apply some to create the "paint drip", let it dry and repeat until its the size you need. This makes it appear exactly where you want.

 

If you only have 15% left and you need to paint a somewhat large area, I would get someone to send you another can. When a can is that low, the paint tends to have a different quality to it, there's stuff that settles in the can and you end up with a slightly different finish. Also, the pressure will be very low (you can try to bump it up by submersing the bottom of the can in some warm water, this will increase the pressure somewhat.

 

I almost never use those "made for plastic paints" directly on plastic. They say they bond better, but in my experience, they don't hold any better than straight up lacquer on a primered surface. Primer bonds much better to surfaces, then you can top coat it.

 

Also, if you added more coats too early, you may not have given enough time for the top coat to cure. Remember, lacquer will dry faster than enamel which takes much longer to dry.

 

Good luck! Let me know if you need more help / input.

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Looks like the paint was applied too heavily, and reacting with the coats underneath. If it's in an area that's on top of the latex, just leave it - since you peel it off anyways.

 

If it's on an area that's "finished", I would personally remove it by sanding it down. I don't think I would have replicated the paint drips by spraying it with more paint since you can't control where the paint drip will appear very well. I think I would have used a small brush and overload it with paint, and apply some to create the "paint drip", let it dry and repeat until its the size you need. This makes it appear exactly where you want.

 

If you only have 15% left and you need to paint a somewhat large area, I would get someone to send you another can. When a can is that low, the paint tends to have a different quality to it, there's stuff that settles in the can and you end up with a slightly different finish. Also, the pressure will be very low (you can try to bump it up by submersing the bottom of the can in some warm water, this will increase the pressure somewhat.

 

I almost never use those "made for plastic paints" directly on plastic. They say they bond better, but in my experience, they don't hold any better than straight up lacquer on a primered surface. Primer bonds much better to surfaces, then you can top coat it.

 

Also, if you added more coats too early, you may not have given enough time for the top coat to cure. Remember, lacquer will dry faster than enamel which takes much longer to dry.

 

Good luck! Let me know if you need more help / input.

 

 

THX bro!

Very usefull...

 

So far, the best option I can come up with is sanding and repainting... But not the entire bucket. Just the damaged areas.

 

This reaction appeared in areas where I tried to make the dripping by spraying lots of paint. Big mistake. I do think that using a small brush would be a lot better... too bad its already done. In my first painted bucket the dripping appeared on its own, and was no big deal, so I though I could do it the same way. I was mistaken.

 

No latex was under the damages areas, so, it wont help much. Too bad.

 

Now, I guess I will sand those areas, and depending on how it turns out, I will proceed with recoating, repainting or just some damage control with the paint leftover...

 

The paint instructions say that its safe to apply a new layer after 48 hours. Thats tonite. So, hopefully I wont need to do it, but if it is a matter of just a very very lihght coat, I guess I can do it tonite. Will put the can bottom on some warm water first. :)

 

Thx for all your help bro...

 

 

Does anyone else have another idea or tip?

 

THX a lot.

 

Saludos

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Not much help to you but ive had this happen on motorcycle tanks when the top coat has reacted with the primer and 99% of the time the whole area had needed sanding back as the reaction keeps coming back on any topcoat applied over the affected area. :(

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Not much help to you but ive had this happen on motorcycle tanks when the top coat has reacted with the primer and 99% of the time the whole area had needed sanding back as the reaction keeps coming back on any topcoat applied over the affected area. :(

 

Thats bad!!

 

I will be sanding tonite and will then make a decide if I should paint or not.

 

Thx for your help bro.

 

Saludos

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Make sure the top coats are FULLY cured before you sand them back down. If the coats underneath aren't cured, you'll end up with this weird texture when you're sanding (the paint will be slight;y "soft").

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THX Bro... The paint was cured alright. I waited for about 52 hours before starting to sand. Every coat was already dry. Thx for the warning... I was able to read it before starting. :)

 

So I sand it. Sand it with a fine writ sandpaper until it was smooth...

 

Then I painted it, this time with very thin layers with the remaining paint until it looked fine. And it worked!!!

 

At least on the dome, it worked... Some parts I did not dare to sand too much, and some parts I actually wanted to live them as they were cause they were just cracked and not really scaled so it gave the helmet an aged look.

 

I also pealed some latex that was supposed to be covered with a light coat of white before painting it again.

 

Here it is:

 

 

 

And then, after the paint settled in for about 1 hour, I painted over the exposed khaki plastic and then, started peeling the rest of the latex too.

 

This gave it the cool aged, repaired damaged look of the real prop.

 

Here it is:

 

 

 

post-3106-127052524369_thumb.jpg

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And this is just a preview of how it will look when finished:

 

 

 

 

Side by side:

 

 

 

 

 

So far turned alright I think... and the scaling that was left add it some character, and doesn't even show that much I think.

 

I will just let it cure for about 24 to 48 hours... and then start the hand painted details...

 

Im really excited with the results.

 

What do you guys think?

 

Saludos....

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Looking really good Juan! I assume you'll paint the traps, etc.. by hand to replicate the screen used look? It would be a shame to put stickers on your hard work.

 

Your project is inspiring! I'd like to do a replica of the "Stop that ship" TD someday.

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Looking really good Juan! I assume you'll paint the traps, etc.. by hand to replicate the screen used look? It would be a shame to put stickers on your hard work.

 

Your project is inspiring! I'd like to do a replica of the "Stop that ship" TD someday.

 

 

Yep, thats what I will do.

 

Have already painted the frown and vocoder of 3 other helmets by hand. And the traps and vents only in one. But this will be my first time with the tube stripes.

 

I just need to get the right blue paint, gray and black I already have.

 

Thx for your kind words bro... and for your support!

 

Saludos

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Just to share some pictures of the sanded helmet before painting... and of the scratches and cracks before finishing them...

 

post-3106-127067790916_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

Some some updates soon...

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Looking really good Juan! What are those black lines? Are those painted on?

 

 

I just used a marker to paint them on. They are supposed to simulate repaired cracks on the plastic. I didnt want to go as far as breaking the helmet for real. HEHEHE... maybe next time.

 

Check this out:

 

 

 

 

Thx bro!

 

Saludos.

Edited by iconoclasta_88
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Already handpainted the vents and frown with testors 1138 and satin black...

 

This is just a little teaser (phone pictures), as I have not been able to take proper pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saludos.

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one question.. did you use latex with ammonia or only water based? This could be the reason!

 

 

MMM... have no idea. Will check later tonite.

 

I guess it is only water based, but it does smells funny. Anyway, I think it is not really latex, but a paint with latex used by artists to mask over paper, plastic and other meterials. Got it from an art store.

 

I'll come back later and let you know.

 

THX...

 

Saludos

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Just to share with you my almost finshed bucket.

 

I had all the vents and traps, frown, vocoder and tube stripes painted by hand. Also made some aging/weathering with white paint over gray, blue and black... and finally added the film gel lenses, the hovis and the neck trim...

 

post-3106-127128214022_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

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post-3106-12712821459_thumb.jpg

 

Still to go, I need to get the accurate eyebrow and neck trim, maple leaf foam, chin elastic and weathering.

 

So far, what do you think?

 

Saludos

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This is it... 98% finished.

Just need to add the maple leaf foam inside and ready for display...

 

Here are a few photos side by side with the real Move Along bucket.

 

 

replicag.th.jpg

replicaf.th.jpg

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replicaa.th.jpg

 

 

And here it is as I will display it:

 

replica15.jpg

 

 

 

What do you think?

I like it a lot! :D

 

Saludos.

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