Pandatrooper's AM build thread[*AM]

[BananoPower22[TK]]

For the Thermal Detonator, I decided to do the hanging clips a bit differently. On my previous build, I did them in the screen accurate way by bending aluminum hooks that were riveted to the TD pipe. But after several troops with photo ops with fans, I found that the slightest bump would send the TD flying off my belt. Wasn't super practical for me so I came up with a sturdier solution: Closed end style clips that allow you to slide the TD onto your belt. It won't come off unless you take the belt off and slide the TD out (which is held in by friction against the velcro).

 

I had tried making them out of aluminum, but I ended up snapping the aluminum flats I had 3 times so I abandoned that idea. Maybe I can convince Jawa001 / TK4702 / Jesse to make some for me.

 

I figured I'm much handier with plastic, so I started by trimming some plastic to the size I needed. The belt was 3" tall, so I accommodated by adding about 1/4" for each top / fold that would be bent into shape.

 

I made a simple clamp out of a vice clamp and a few sections of aluminum flat bar. I clamped it into place, and heated the tops with a heat gun, then quickly folded the clip over itself to create the loop. Once it's cooled, it's quite strong since it's ABS.

 

After you fold both ends, this is what you end up with

 

You can see how they will attach to the back of the AM TD here. I actually like the AM TD as it's much lighter than a PVC / ABS pipe.

 

I've drilled some 1/8" holes in the clips and the TD backing plate. The holes against the TD are 1/8" but the holes on the other side of the clips are bigger about 3/8" so that the head of the rivet gun can press against it for the correct pressure. This image is just prior to painting them silver to look like aluminum (if I didn't tell you they were plastic, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference!)

 

Underside of TD clips

 

Rivets visible on the inside. Always make sure you use a backing washer on the inside when riveting plastic to prevent the rivet from pulling out.

 

You can see how the TD mounts on to the belt here (scrap belt material shown)

 

The TD can now be assembled by gluing shims inside. You need to assembled the clips / rivets first, then glue it together.

 

Glueing the button panel on the TD and end caps in place. Holding everything with rubber bands while the E6000 sets

 

Thermal Detonator completed

 

 

 

Very impressive this was! I think i'm going to do this myself with left over plastic i've got lying around to scratch my itchy back whenever i feel the desire

 

The question is, hot o bend it. I don't got the fancy tools so I can bend it like that but I'm sure ( I HOPE ) that a lighter will just do the trick for this.

 

 

 

 

 

[89Batman[TK]]

What an inspirational thread- man you made that look awesome!! Wow!

[Bill.I.Am]

Very impressive this was! I think i'm going to do this myself with left over plastic i've got lying around to scratch my itchy back whenever i feel the desire

 

The question is, hot o bend it. I don't got the fancy tools so I can bend it like that but I'm sure ( I HOPE ) that a lighter will just do the trick for this.

 

Better buy a few lighters. But nothing beats having a good heat gun at your side.

[MightyTank[501st]]

Ok terry, I'm trying this fancy (and sexy) cover strip method with the thighs.. I have one question. How the holy heck do you cut your lines and cover strips so strait!!

 

But seriously, what do you use to cut your strips?

strait blade? Scissors? I definitely need pointers lol

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Hi MightyTank. The best way is to lay the plastic on a flat work surface. Then use a steel or aluminum ruler (not plastic) and draw a pencil line where you want the strip to be. As a general guide, arm strips are about 15mm wide, and thighs and shins are 20mm wide, and the backs of the shins are 25mm.

 

After you have drawn the pencil line, lay the ruler down and line it up with the pencil line. Then use a SHARP Exacto blade / box cutter, and do a light score using the ruler as a guide. Just do one light pass. Now do a second pass with a little more pressure. Do at least 3-4 passes with the knife. Then simply bend the plastic along the seam and it will snap. Sand the edges and you're done!

 

BTW: here's a helpful thigh assembly build thread if you need step by step instructions.

 

http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11563&pid=145956&st=0entry145956

[MightyTank[501st]]

i know i keep asking about your strapping / harness system. but its inspiring!

 

I noticed you have your forearms attached to your biceps and shoulders w/ 1.5" elastic. How does this work out for you? do you just put it on like a tee-shirt? where and how is the elastic secured to your forearms and biceps?

 

Also, how does your chest piece connect to your suspender system? Is it like your back piece, with velcro / snaps? do your ribbed shoulder straps just float in the back?

 

Thanks brother.

 

-Clint

[pandatrooper[TK]]

i know i keep asking about your strapping / harness system. but its inspiring!

 

I noticed you have your forearms attached to your biceps and shoulders w/ 1.5" elastic. How does this work out for you? do you just put it on like a tee-shirt? where and how is the elastic secured to your forearms and biceps?

 

No problem Clint. Glad you like it!

 

I have tried having the shoulders attached and putting it on like a T-shirt, but it's cumbersome for me. I have also tried the screen accurate way with a longer strap connecting the shoulders, but I don't like the elastic pressing on the back of my neck.

 

 

This is how I put on my armor with this setup (again, this works for me - it's just the way I do it). I know there are more screen accurate ways to do the strapping, but I just came up with this setup and thought it would be easy in and out - which it is. I find I can gear up in about 5-10 minutes, depending on how rushed I am.

 

- Underarmor undersuit on

- neck seal on and tucked into the Underarmor top

- put Aker mic on head, feed the cord through the neckseal and out the front to attach to the amp in the chest

- Thighs slide on, with the garter system first

- TK boots on next

- shins clamshell over, close with velcro in the back

- torso goes on like a jacket, with the left side joined by elastic / clamshell. Close the right side with velcro / snap. Close the crotch snap.

- belt snaps into position (with holster and thermal detonator attached)

- arms slide on one at a time. The elastic coming off the shoulder bells attach to the suspenders and are fixed at the top of each shoulder.

- chest plate snaps into position via shoulder extension straps, plug in the amp and turn it on, test the volume

- gloves go on, slip the hand plates over the gloves, tuck the gloves in

- holster the blaster or hold it ready

- lid goes on, ready to rock!

 

Also, how does your chest piece connect to your suspender system? Is it like your back piece, with velcro / snaps? do your ribbed shoulder straps just float in the back?

 

The chest snaps into short extensions I have sewn into the front of the suspenders. The chest "snaps" into these extensions via snap plates, and snaps integrated into the extensions.

 

The white velcro you see on the right is the underside of the chest.

 

Yes, the ribbed shoulder armor just floats in the back. I have curved them with a heat gun so they sit perfect. No need for elastic loops to hold them down, etc.

[MightyTank[501st]]

Very nice, thank you =)

 

I am still confused as to how your forearms are attached to it. But everything else was answered, and then some!

[pandatrooper[TK]]

The forearms are attached to the biceps with black elastic as you mentioned. Theres a snap plate at the bottom of the bicep. The other end is attached with industrial velcro on the inside if the forearm and velcro sewn to the end of the strap.

 

I like doing it this way because i can dial in the length until its just perfect. The velcro at the end is about 2.5" long and has never failed.

[MightyTank[501st]]

thanks!

[pandatrooper[TK]]

No problem!

[Headcount]

Terry, you're so good at explaining this stuff. Thanks for taking the time.

 

I'm certain many members of the 501st are building more accurate and more functional sets of armor, thanks to your input. I know that, if I ever get to a set, it'll be much easier for me to put together the FIRST time, rather than having to deal with the frustration and added head-scratching of trying to figure it out on my own.

 

Keep it comin'!

[Bill.I.Am]

Terry, you're so good at explaining this stuff. Thanks for taking the time.

 

I'm certain many members of the 501st are building more accurate and more functional sets of armor, thanks to your input. I know that, if I ever get to a set, it'll be much easier for me to put together the FIRST time, rather than having to deal with the frustration and added head-scratching of trying to figure it out on my own.

 

Keep it comin'!

 

It definaly helped me with mine which is 95% done. I could not have done as good of a job with it without the input.

[pandatrooper[TK]]

No problem guys. That's what "Troopers helping Troopers" is all about.

 

Remember, this is just one way to assemble a kit. There's other methods too, like the screen accurate wire hangers, elastic, etc. It just depends on your intended use and how accurate you want it to be. Review the different construction methods, then pick the one that best suits your skills, needs and budget.

 

Good luck with your builds!

[EGSouthSky]

Im a bit scared with the whole heating part....Im pretty sure Ill have to do that since Im about your size ( 5'7ish). I have the AM Kit and yeah its pretty big....please continue to post your work as Im a Visual type learner and could benefit from your working ideas

[Gedstar]

Heating ABS:

 

I read on one forum that you can gently heat ABS by placing it in hot water! (no heat gun needed).

 

This technique could be used to bend the amo belts, shoulder bells etc etc...

 

Anyone ever tried this?

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Im a bit scared with the whole heating part....Im pretty sure Ill have to do that since Im about your size ( 5'7ish). I have the AM Kit and yeah its pretty big....please continue to post your work as Im a Visual type learner and could benefit from your working ideas

 

Hi Lee. You don't "need" to do all the fancy heating, bending, etc. Even if you simply trim your kit to your size, you will get good results. This build is just an example of what "could" be done. Just make sure to use reference pictures from the films. I'm sure yours will turn out great!

[tkrestonva[TK]]

Heating ABS:

 

I read on one forum that you can gently heat ABS by placing it in hot water! (no heat gun needed).

 

This technique could be used to bend the amo belts, shoulder bells etc etc...

 

Anyone ever tried this?

 

Yes, I've done it and it works. The water has to be near-boiling, though, and you have to work quickly since the ABS cools quickly.

[EGSouthSky]

Hi Lee. You don't "need" to do all the fancy heating, bending, etc. Even if you simply trim your kit to your size, you will get good results. This build is just an example of what "could" be done. Just make sure to use reference pictures from the films. I'm sure yours will turn out great!

 

 

Oh ok I was kinda worried there. Well Im going to start the measurements and go from there, what tools should i have on hand?

 

Also.....what are "cover strips?" Is it those white rectangular sheets that the came with the kit? What side should they be applied on (the back half or thew front half)?

Edited October 24, 2010 by EGSouthSky

[tkrestonva[TK]]

Check the thread in this section (Armor Builds) immediately below this one, and you'll find your answer for the tools question.

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Thanks Brian!

 

Cover strips are strips of plastic that go on top of the butt seam when you join the armor halves. You can cut these from the extra plastic that AM includes.

 

The AM kit was designed with overlap seam construction in mind, but if you read this thread thoroughly, you can see that butt seam construction is possible.

 

For more info, see the "How to assemble thighs" tutorial.

[EGSouthSky]

Thanks Brian!

 

Cover strips are strips of plastic that go on top of the butt seam when you join the armor halves. You can cut these from the extra plastic that AM includes.

 

The AM kit was designed with overlap seam construction in mind, but if you read this thread thoroughly, you can see that butt seam construction is possible.

 

For more info, see the "How to assemble thighs" tutorial.

 

Thanks!

[Yaroshc]

Terry,

 

Thanks for this post. I recieved my AM armor about 4 weeks ago, and it took about 5 days to put it all together. The instructions (and Pics) have been extremely helpful throughout my build. I believe this post has made my finished suit better than if I would have just used the instructions that came with the armor.

 

Thanks again from this New Trooper.

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Thanks Cary, glad you found it helpful!

[BananoPower22[TK]]

My kit gives me the option of being TD also, so i'm saving that for the future. But I've got a small problem. My AB buttons box sticks out a lot and eventhough the spectators won't notice, but I do and i'm a 100% i need to do something about that for EIB