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  1. This is going to be a slow build, so strap in and hang on. First is the BBB day (minus the BBB). its a lot of parts Planning on L3, so rubber gaskets are in hand Lots of sourced bits/bobs, this one is for the back of the armor (goes underneath the thermal det),
  2. Let's give this a try to see where we're at with the @Deployment Officer Team... Mandatory Information Costume = Stormtrooper, The Force Awakens Costume CRL Link = https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_-_First_Order Name = Justin R. TKID = 61490 Forum Name = TheRascalKing Legion Profile = https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=26076 Garrison/Squad = Southern California Garrison, Orange County Squad Armor = Denuo Novo Helmet = Anovos, TFA Optional Information Height = 5ft 11in, or 180cm Weight = 175lbs, or 80kg Neckseal & Gaskets = Sheev's Emporium Forearms, Cod, & Belt Boxes = Imperial Surplus, TFA Holster = Dantooine Props (functional) Hand Plates = Dantooine Props Gloves = Endor Finders Undersuit shorts = Geeky Pink's Boots = Imperial Boots Blaster = F11-D, TFA Armor Photos Helmet Off (unadjusted) Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Right Full Left Action Shots Blaster It's hard to believe I headed down this rabbit hole over three years ago. Here we are, finally submitted for approval - 3 years, 4 different FOTK suits owned(/sold), from 4 different armor makers, parts from over a dozen vendors, a new house and workshop, and a new baby along the way since I've started. Thanks for looking!
  3. As we continue to improve our support for the FOTK we've comprised a list of all the Hard & Soft goods vendors to help you with your build. We will continue to monitor and update the list as needed. Just a reminder the FISD does not endorse any particular vendor, nor is responsible for any transaction between you and the vendor. Please do your research before purchasing. Armor/Helmet: Jimmiroquai - Origin PHILIPPINES: Kits are partially assembled/fully trimmed lightweight fiberglass (ready for rigging and painting). No issues with quality or service reported. Contact for delivery times/price details. FB Link Here, Email Here or send a private message @jimmiroquai KB PROPS Temporarily Unavailable KB - Origin USA: Kits are made of ABS and will need to be trimmed and assembled. No issues with quality or service reported. Contact for delivery times/price details. Link Here, Email Here Armoryshop Props - Origin RUSSIA: Supplies a range of First Order Armour and Specialised 3Dprinted Helmets Link Here Armor vendors under review: 850 - Origin USA: Kits are made of ABS and will need to be trimmed and assembled. No issues with quality or service reported. Contact for delivery times/price details. Link Here Imperial Surplus (Kevin Weir) - Origin USA: Kits are made of ABS and require trimming and assembly. Armour kit is vac-formed with ABS and cast detail parts and decals are included with the kit. Quality has been solid, communication and service good. Kits ship out in 4 weeks or less Link Here WTF - Origin USA: TFA and TLJ new kit awaiting member feed back and reviews for quality etc. Kit made of ABS with some resin parts. Link Here Anovos- Offers a "Pre-order" FO kit at this time, but due to legal issues and extended (1 year plus) wait times is no longer recommended or available Denuo Novo - Origin USA: Purchase Anovos and are now supplying kits are made of ABS and will need to be trimmed and assembled. Website Link Here Soft goods vendors: Soft goods assorted (Soulart) - Origin CANADA: Neck seals, Harnesses, Shiny biker shorts, First Order gaskets, Phasma capes. Link Here Soft goods assorted (Imperial Gaskets) - Origin USA: Rubber gaskets, Pauldrons and Waist belts. FB contact Soft goods Rubber gaskets (Thorsson Associates Workshop) - Origin USA: Link Here Email: sthorsson99@yahoo.com FB: https://www.facebook.com/Thorsson-Associates-Workshop-112076042142986 Soft goods assorted (Trooper Bay) - Origin USA: Link Here Under Suit - Stormtrooperundersuit Link Here link not working Gaskets - Sheev's Emporium - Link Here (Facebook sales page) Belt - Belts of the First Order (JAFO)- Origin AUSTRALIA: Link Here Boots - Imperial Boots Origin CHINA: Link Here Gloves - Imperial Boots Origin CHINA: Link Here Endor Finders Origin USA: Link Here Neck Seal - The Dark Side Closet Link Here (Facebook sales page) Sheev's Emporium - Link Here (Facebook sales page) Suspension - Awaiting vendor Waist belt pouches - Trooperbay Origin USA: Link here Hardware vendors: Holster - R2Dan. Origin GERMANY: Other hard accessories available by application. V2 Link Here Hand Plates - As above Shoulder bell supports- (Accuracy upgrade) - ukswrath Origin USA: Link Here Waist belt center box base (Accuracy upgrade) (Empire 3D) - Origin AUSTRALIA Link Here Machined metal components - Justin Morrison Origin UK: Parts for Blaster rifle and pistol mounting, Resin holsters and other greeblies, machined metal components and more. Email Here FB links https://www.facebook.com/groups/1654472361474254/user/802819468 https://www.facebook.com/kingleezard Helmet Lens - OPLE props Origin GERMANY: Link Here Accessories: Pauldron - Denuo Novo (No stock currently) Pauldron - Trooperbay Link Here Riot Shield - Awaiting vendor Tactical Vest - Awaiting vendor 3D files: 3D print files TLJ helmet (Sano) Sanotized Creations - Link Here 3D print files F11D (The5thHorseman) - Link Here 3D print files SE-44C (The5thHorseman) - Link Here Commission builders: Crooknight - Crookknight@gmail.com dbetters - dan@thetown.org Building Guides/Thread,Tutorials & How To: Please refer to Building guides ... Weapons: General - Link Here F11D - Branfurh Studios (Etsy shop) Link Here Executioner Laser Axe - Armory Shop (Facebook sales page) Link Here / Etsy shop Link Here 3D print blaster kits - The Imperial Factory - ( Facebook sales page) Link Here Email Link Here Electroprod - (Empire 3D) - Email here. Link Here F-11D/E-11 Picatinny Rails - (justloseph63) - Link (purchase) F-11D/E-11 Picatinny Rails - (evike.com) - Link (purchase) F-11D/E-11 Picatinny Rails - (m416gelblaster) - Link (purchase) F-11D Picatinny Rails - (themaninthesuitcase) - Link 3D files E-11 Picatinny Rails - (TK14082) -Link Part of Rogue One 3D files Please refer to Vendors weapons list for up to date links/info
  4. Rogue One TK Sources (updated 8-10-2020) Since I keep seeing these questions popping up from time to time, I figured I would make this simple for everyone. I do not have experience with some of these sources so if any of you do please chime in. Further, I am not pushing or supporting any of these sources, I am just providing you all the list and what they provide, and you choose who and what you want to go with. Lastly, If I do have experience with a specific source, I will note that and my overall experience with them. I am not pushing any sources, rather supplying you a list to work from if you are having a hard time finding stuff. Please feel free to add to this or provide "creative" comments. ROTK Sources Jimmiroquai Armor, Helmet, Under Suit jimmiroquai@yahoo.com Jim was the first source for ROTK armor and is considered very accurate. The armor is flexible fiberglass and requires painting. I have a full set or armor, helmet, and under suit from Jim and I like everything. 850 Armor Works Armor, Helmet, Under Suit https://850armorworks.com/ 850 AW is offering vacuum formed ROTK armor. They produce this armor in ABS and it looks accurate from the pictures I have seen. They also offer a resin helmet and undersuit now. Helmet Nico Henderson Helmet 3D print files https://www.facebook.com/nico.heath Etsy Nicolai DesertFareCosplay https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/784808040/rogue-one-stormtroopersolo-mimban Nico designs extremely accurate helmets, his Shoretrooper helmet is considered the most accurate available and now he has designed a ROTK helmet that is extremely accurate and all the greebles are separate so you can print and paint them before attaching them. You will need to message him on FB. I have his ROTK helmet files and find them to be outstanding. Suggested print orientations https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/53519-recommended-printing-positions-for-nicos-tk-helmet/ Updated files TKModder421 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/53406-modifying-the-nico-helmet/ OxProps https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4227844 Armor akira-yuming Armor 3D print files https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/art/other/star-wars-rogue-one-tk-first-imperial-stormtrooper-armor ( Build thread Jason @BigJasoni build thread https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49826-the-bigjasonis-rotk-3d-print-build-thread/Green Rogue One TK lenses to fit the Nico Henderson helmet Mr Paul's Shoretrooper Build https://www.facebook.com/totalgrunt Updated 3D files Jason @BigJasoni updated kidney plate https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/52974-rogue-one-new-generation-eib-centurion-kidney-plate/ Jason @BigJasoni updated belt boxes https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/19k-95YPTsiBJzHGIumsGLYQjQlx_S0p4 Jeff @11b30b4 updated ab greebles https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3973969 Jeff @11b30b4 updated handplates https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3910278 Hasbro Black Series Helmet Amazon and others Very nice helmet that will require significant alteration to be 501st approved. I have one and I am planning on altering it for use with my 850 AW armor. Build threads updating Jeff @11b30b4 updating Black Series helmet https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48054-11b30b4-tutorial-rotk-black-series-helmet-mod/ Colin @OddViking327 updating Black Series helmet https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/52589-modifying-a-black-series-helmet-for-accuracy/ Updating Colin @OddViking327 vent/traps updated 3D files https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5455582 Please Note HeadShotProps is temporarily suspended as a recommended vendor, until they are back to normal and gain positive feedback from our members. HeadShotProps Armor, Helmet https://www.etsy.com/listing/830810037/rogue-one-stormtrooper-armor-kit?ref=shop_home_feat_4 The armor is vacuum formed and looks very similar to 850AW, although the TD looks better in the pics than the 850AW TD. The helmet looks to be a nice pull, this helmet is roto cast with greebles Soft Goods Other than the previously noted sources many of the soft goods are available from these sources: Dark Side Closet Under Suit https://www.facebook.com/TheDarkSideCloset/ I have messaged them for pricing and shipping, and they are very responsive. Geeky Pink’s Gaskets Under Suit https://www.facebook.com/GeekyPinksPhantasticGaskets/ You will need to message here and provide specifications. Imperial Boots RO Boots, Gloves, Strapping https://www.imperialboots.com/ I have a set of boots and gloves from IB. I love the boots, the gloves are not the highest quality. Endor Finders RO Gloves https://www.endorfinders.com/ I have a set of gloves from EF and I love them. Katarra8 RO Pauldrons https://www.etsy.com/listing/150178963/classic-star-wars-stormtrooper-shoulder?ref=shop_home_feat_3&frs=1 I have a RO Orange Pauldron from Katarra8 and I love it. Veeds Pauldrons RO Pauldrons https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Product-Service/Veeds-Pauldrons-305552456469495/ I do not have any of Veeds’ Pauldrons but he is highly reviewed and respected. Sheev's Emporium RO Undersuit and Gaskets https://www.facebook.com/sheevsemporium I do not have any of Sheev's goods but I do know they have been very active in the Shoretrooper community and the quality seems to nearly screen accurate. Crow Props RO Boots https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/fo-r1-tk E-11s Bryan @trooper96 3D print files https://www.printables.com/model/155855-st-sterling-l2a1-aeg-and-rogue-one-e-11-conversion Sterling conversion https://www.printables.com/model/168104-rogue-one-e-11-conversion-kit-for-sterling-smg-mk4 Hyperfirm Weaponry (HFx Productions) GOING OUT OF BUSINESS, NOT TAKING ANY NEW ORDERS RO E-11 https://www.facebook.com/HFx-Productions-1669859386576227/ I have a B-Grade RO E-11 from Hyperfirm and love it. Praetorian Blasters RO E-11 https://www.facebook.com/BlasterMaker/ I do not own a PB RO E-11 but it looks awesome. S&T Full Metal Airsoft Sterling E-11 RO E-11 https://www.evike.com/products/61969/ While most of the E-11s used in RO were made using the S&T Full Metal airsoft Sterling, this E-11 is not very accurate for RO. The scope, counter, and power cylinders are all wrong and there is not a light rail or tactical light. DoopyDoo’s RO E-11 parts https://www.doopydoos.com/star-wars-props-31-c.asp It has been noted that some of the E-11s used in RO were equipped with a DoopyDoo cast of the M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope from Sherman M4 Tank (1943 version with wide front foot). War Machine RO E-11 parts http://www.warmachinepaintball.com/online-store-replicas/ If you are looking to make a full “all metal” RO E-11, look no further. War Machine makes everything you would ever need. Bulldog Props RO E-11 parts https://www.facebook.com/BulldogPropsJapan/ Brian makes resin casts of the M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope from Sherman M4 Tank (1943 version with wide front foot) that are completely accurate and disassemble-able. I own one and love it. I have done a full review of it on FISD. Shear Tech RO E-11, Rubber RO Handguards https://www.facebook.com/sheartech/ I am not real familiar with these guys but the E-11 looks nice and the rubber hand guards are nice as well. Picatinny Rail ROTK / FOTK E-11/F11D Picatinny Rail - (evike.com) - Link (purchase) E-11/F-11D Picatinny Rail - (justloseph63) - Link (purchase) E-11/F-11D Picatinny Rail - (m416gelblaster) - Link (purchase) F-11D Picatinny Rail - (themaninthesuitcase) - Link 3D files E-11 Picatinny Rail - (TK14082) -Link Part of Rogue One 3D files While there are a lot more sources out there this is a fairly good list for anyone to work from. I did not include sources like static burst communication kits or urethane rubber shoulder straps sources, but they are out there and if you are looking for that stuff you should be able to find them. I hope this helps those of you who are looking to embark on your ROTK journey. Rough comparison Chest / Back
  5. Night Troopers Night Troopers were the stormtroopers who served aboard the Imperial I-class Star Destroyer Chimaera under the command of Captain of the Guard Enoch. The troopers comprised the forces of Grand Admiral Thrawn while they were stranded on the planet Peridea. Night Troopers' armor featured cracks filled with gold and grey accents and red strips of fabric. Helmet Jimmiroquai Fiberglass - Facebook: Link Here Email jimmiroquai@yahoo.com 850 Armor Works Resin - Facebook: Link Here Website Link Here Email 850armorworks@gmail.com Galactic Armory 3D Files - Facebook: Link Here Patreon Link Here Website Link Here Etsy Link Here Nico Henderson 3D Files - Facebook: Link Here Etsy Link Here Upgrade files: TKModder421 & OxProps Lens: Mr Paul's Shoretrooper Build NerdForgeDesigns 3D Files - Facebook: Link Here Etsy Link Here DO3D 3D Files - Facebook: Link Here Website Link Here PewPewCrafts 3D Files - Facebook: Link Here Patreon Link Here Website Link Here Etsy Link Here Cults Link Here OxProps 3D Files - Facebook: Link Here Etsy Link Here Armor Jimmiroquai Fiberglass - Facebook: Link Here Email jimmiroquai@yahoo.com 850 Armor Works ABS - Facebook: Link Here Website Link Here Email 850armorworks@gmail.com DO3D - Facebook: Link Here Website Link Here PewPewCrafts 3D Files - Facebook: Link Here Patreon Link Here Website Link Here Etsy Link Here Cults Link Here Soft goods Dark Side Closet - Facebook: Link Here Geeky Pink’s Gaskets - Facebook: Link Here Keep Smiling (Formerly Imperial Boots) - Website Link Here Sheev's Emporium - Facebook: Link Here Gloves Keep Smiling (Formerly Imperial Boots) - Website Link Here Endor Finders - Website Link Here Boots Keep Trooping (Formerly Imperial Boots) - Website Link Here Crow Props - Website: Link Here E-11 S&T Full Metal Airsoft - Website Link Here War Machine - Website Link Here Bulldog Props - Facebook: Link Here Shear Tech - Facebook: Link Here E-11 - 3D Files OxProps - Facebook: Link Here Etsy Link Here trooper96 - ROGUE ONE E-11 HEAVY DUTY S&T STERLING L2A1 AND ROGUE ONE E-11 RECEIVER TUBE PARTS KIT ROGUE ONE E-11 CONVERSION KIT FOR STERLING SMG ELEMENT AIRSOFT M300A MINI SCOUT FLASHLIGHT E-11 References Link Here Facebook Build Group Night Trooper Build Enoch and Night Trooper Build Costume References Link Here
  6. It's almost one year to the day that I began building my ANH Stormtrooper kit. I'm 20 troops in, having fun experiences, making good friends. After so long without a project, it was time to expand my kit collection and join the First Order. Sticking with the always recognizable, always popular clean storm trooper kit. I love the Star Wars Resistance show and I have some fellow troopers with some FO kits, so I want to expand on that. I also enjoy the Galaxy's Edge troopers. Their banter is always entertaining. Since I didn't really do a build thread of any sort for my first kit, I wanted to start out with one. Mostly because this kit seems like it might need some feedback on way to approval. Some details about the build First Order TK The Last Jedi CRL: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_TLJ Kit: Imperial Surplus (I don't think they offer this kit any longer, so no link.) Boots: KeepTrooping https://keeptrooping.com/product/trooper-white/ Gaskets: May be used from a fellow Mountain Garrison member. If not, likely Geeky Pink. Helmet: Looking to get the Denuo Novo premier https://www.denuonovo.com/products/star-wars-the-last-jedi-stormtrooper-premier-helmet#description-flex Blaster: 3d print from this site. I'll find the article link... What am I forgetting?
  7. If you wish to you could also help with the CRL text, ROTK copied below, adjust to suit the Night Troopers, copy/paste from below then edit, strike through what needs removing and add in green for new text. If aiming to be the CRL model you would also need to provide all CRL images required, I would suggest using a contrasting background, makes photo editing a little easier. Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. Rear traps and tears have engraved vertical black lines. Lenses can be flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars are gray or painted gray, with the largest bar oval cutout painted black. Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. The space between the 8 teeth is hollow and backed with Black or Dark grey wire screen mesh. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering 12 per side. The stipes are straight, not curved like ANH. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) have a black exterior and silver in color screen mesh. Tears and traps may not be hand-painted. Tube stripes are recessed, and the recessed section painted blue or backed by blue mesh. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. The Black Series helmet is approvable if modified to meet the level 1 CRLs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Lenses have a very slight curve and are convex in style. Flat lenses and ANH style bubble lenses are not permissible. Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed. Head opening has black trim running all along the edge. Brow trim should be positioned ¼" above the eyes. Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath. Vocoder is tubular in nature with 7 vertical tubes. A visible gap must be present between the Vocoder and the helmet. The inside of each tear will be a raised area that is grey, with 8 engraved black lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The frown shall be recessed to the proper depth, unlike standard ANH. The inside of each rear trap will be a raised area that is grey, with 13 engraved black vertical lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The inside of each side trap will be a raised area that is grey. There is a small bump in the right eye socket (when worn) under the lens as an intended flaw to pay tribute to the original trilogy designers. TK anh stunt neckseal.jpeg Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top, where visible shall be fully ribbed with all horizontal ribbing on the arms, chest, and back. The centre of chest and back may be mesh as long as it is covered by armor. Pants shall be black non-textured material and have horizontal ribbing at the knees only. Knee gaskets are allowed as long as they correctly match top ribbing material, spacing and color. The hip section shall not have ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): All ribbing on knees, arms, chest, and back must be stitched between each rib in detail and proportion to official references. The armpit area shall have the correct hexagonal mesh detail Shoulder Straps They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Upper Arm Armor Both biceps are symmetrical and interchangeable. The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Forearm Armor The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints. Hand Plates Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Gloves Black in color, made of Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. Rubber ANH style gloves are not permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon. Palms of gloves shall be shiny black fabric or leather or leather-like material. On the index finger shall be a stitched piece of fabric made from the same material as the hand's underside that while stitched to the finger has one cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Chest Armor Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert. The chest and back sides shall be connected by black extensions pieces. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Top pectoral out lines swoop correctly outward. Bottom of ribcage flares correctly outward. Back Armor Back plate contains an "O II" design. There are raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate section beneath which the shoulder straps insert. The backplate continues past these trapezoids towards the top of the shoulder OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top of box wall has a trapezoidal indentation. There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backplate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bottom of backplate is curved and extends past abdominal back cover plate. The O cog shall have 16 spines. The 11 bars have 5 horizontal evenly spaced raised bars on the bottom of the face. There is a rectangular tab protruding from the bottom of each of the two raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate. Abdomen Armor The abdominal armor consists of a one-piece corset design with a vertical opening centered on the back. The back opening is covered by a rectangular cover plate that is worn under the back armor. There are 3 vertical ribs centered on the front of the abdomen and two (one left and one right) ribs further spaced to each side of the center. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) ribs on each side of the abdominal armor. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) recessed ribs on each side of the abdominal armor behind the raised angled ribs that are black Any side shims added are to be added to the white areas of the armor. The center front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel. On the right half of the panel, there is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. On the left half of the panel, there is a vertical column of raised evenly spaced horizontal gear teeth with a recessed trapezoid at the top of the column. The rectangular inside bottom of the trapezoid is black. The left front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel with an angled top. There is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. The right front detail consists of a primary raised rectangular panel with an additional secondary raised rectangular panel covering the top ⅓ of the primary panel. There is a column of three thin horizontal evenly spaced raised lines across the top ½ of the secondary panel. The abdominal armor is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod armor is separate from the abdominal armor. The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The abdomen armor has two horizontal recessed rectangles centered above the center front detail panel and on each side of the center rib. All 8 Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge, only the recessed portion is painted. The center front panel column of raised gear teeth has only 9 teeth. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along all four sides around the face of the center front panel The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along the sides and top around the face of the left front detail pane The abdominal armor back cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Cod Armor The cod armor consists of a body shape formed triangular plate with a raised center rib and raised lower portion and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Kidney Armor The kidney armor is separated in the back and covered by a rectangular plate. The rectangular plate is separate from the posterior armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Posterior Armor The posterior armor shall be a separate piece from the abdominal armor OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Belt The Ammunition belt consists of a hard belt made of the same or similar material as the armor in two separate parts front and back (with overlap). The back belt overlaps the front belt on the sides. There are 6 ammunition boxes mounted to the belt. There are 2 (one left and one right) drop boxes suspended by black webbing approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Drop boxes must be accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The ammunition belt is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The only detail visible on the front belt is the mounted ammunition boxes unlike the squares present on ANH belts. The top edge of the front belt has protruding teeth that nest inside gaps between the ribs and detail panels of the abdominal armor. The two center ammunition boxes are thinner than the other mounted ammunition boxes. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes are slightly wider than the two center ammunition boxes. The two outermost ammunition boxes are almost square. The two drop boxes are rectangular and as wide as the mounted square boxes. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The ammo boxes across the front are all made separately from the main belt and are secured to it The two drop boxes hang no more than 1" 25mm below the front belt and the black strap is visible. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes have trapezoid detail on the top of each ammunition box. The front belt protrudes past all mounted ammunition boxes above and below by approximately ⅛"–¼" 3–6mm. All ammunition boxes have slightly beveled edges on the face of each box. Thermal Detonator The thermal detonator consists of a grey tube approximately 3" 76mm in diameter and 8" 203mm long approximately. There are two white endcaps and a white control panel. The white control panel has a horizontal row of white rectangles along the bottom of the control panel and a grey “D” shaped recessed on the left side of the horizontal row. There is an oval greeble that protrudes from the control near the top right side. The thermal detonator is mounted to the rear hard belt and there are no visible screws or clips and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator mount should be fully enclosed with solid walls on all four sides. The center of both end caps is gray. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The control panel bottom detail is a raised panel with 7 raised rectangles, all are evenly spaced except the right most rectangle. There is a panel line approximately ¼" 6mm from the edge around the control panel. There is a panel line approximately ⅛" 3mm from the edge of each endcap. The inside edge of both endcaps is beveled. The oval greeble consists of an oval tube protrusion with the top edge slightly extending past the tube wall thickness and is visually similar to the Deathtrooper chin greeble. Thigh Armor The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour. The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled at approximately 45 degrees. Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1" 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle that is covered by black webbing or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg. Lower Leg Armor The greaves are mirrored for each leg and are not interchangeable. The top edge of the greaves has a raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The bottom edge of the greaves flairs out to cover the top of the ankle and boots. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Greaves are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the top of the left greave and there are no visible screws or rivets. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the vertical cover strip and the top raised edge detail on the greave and is accurate in detail and proportion to official reference. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The sniper knee plate has raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The sniper knee plate has 3 trapezoidal lugs on each side and 2 on the center bottom edge (totalling 8) of the knee plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Boots Boots are above ankle height and the same style as the First Order TK. Chelsea type boots in the style of OT TK are not acceptable. Boots are all white and made of leather or leather-like material Flat black soles without a heel. Patent leather or high gloss is not permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. E-11 Blaster Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. "Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not an authorized accessory for rogue One armor". Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. A small flashlight shall can be mounted on the right side of the blaster centred over the T-Tracks. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Flashlight if fitted shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. BlasTech DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): A small flashlight shall can be mounted on the right side of the blaster forward the front sight. BlasTech T-21 Light Repeating Blaster Rifle Based on a real or replica Lewis Mark I machine gun. For this prop the magazine disk and bipod of the original gun are left off. Rubber or rubber-like tubing is wrapped around the barrel shroud covering about ½ the length of the shroud. A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster forward the front sight. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A black nylon 2-point sling shall be attached. Front sight shall be present on top of forward most large barrel ring. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Three large barrel shroud rings are present, two before the rubber tubbing and one prior to the shroud transition. Small barrel ring is present at end of the barrel. Charging handle is mounted on right side of the blaster. Gas Key Adjustment Lever greeble is mounted on the bottom of barrel shroud before forward most large barrel ring. Oil Cleaning Brush greebles are mounted on stock. Sling is mounted to blaster and stock and not wrapped around either. Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. Baton and holster Flat or matte black in color, free of adornment or decoration. Is composed of three sections that extend outward when in use. When not in use, it appears as one cylinder. Is approximately 14" long when collapsed and 1" in diameter. The baton hangs off of the left rear belt, on a black holster. It is be attached at two points on the holster: one at the top, and one at the bottom. The baton should not swing when holstered. The holster is made from leather or leather-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): 3D printed blasters and any approvable accessories can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. Imperial Binders Imperial binders accurate in detail and proportion to official references is an authorized accessory. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): 3D printed blasters and any approvable accessories can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. Tk rogue one pauldron.jpg Pauldron Rogue One Pauldrons denote rank or mission specialization. The Rogue One Pauldron is specific to Rogue One and differs from the original trilogy in color and stitching. Original trilogy Pauldrons are not an authorized accessory for Rogue One armor. An Orange, white, or black ornament made of leather plastic or leather-like material, worn over the right shoulder. The Orange is specific to Rogue One and a different shade from the original trilogy. The colored panel is divided into three sections by color matched stitching to conform to the wearers shoulder and has black piping around the outside edge. The remainder of the Pauldron is black and divided by black stitching into 10 segments. The neck closure is black and has two black snaps visible. There is a black elastic strap that runs from back to front and is worn under the bicep to hold the Pauldron in place. The strap is conned to the Pauldron on top by two black snaps inlayed in black “D” shaped leather or leather-like ends. The underside of the Pauldron is white regardless of top color and is divided with white stitching into 13 segments. The entire outside edge is finished with black piping and the underside of the neck closure is black. Comlink A comlink may be worn on the belt
  8. Below is an amended R1 TK CRL, I have ommitted items like the batton and Pauldron and some blasters that were not seen in use in the Ahsoka series . Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. Rear traps and tears have engraved vertical black lines. Lenses can be flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars are gray or painted gray, with the largest bar oval cutout painted black. Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. The space between the 8 teeth is hollow and backed with Black or Dark grey wire screen mesh. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering 12 per side. The stipes are straight, not curved like ANH. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) have a black exterior and silver in color screen mesh. Tears and traps may not be hand-painted. Tube stripes are recessed, and the recessed section painted blue or backed by blue mesh. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. The Black Series helmet is approvable if modified to meet the level 1 CRLs. Light to medium weathering as per reference images. Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Lenses have a very slight curve and are convex in style. Flat lenses and ANH style bubble lenses are not permissible. Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed. Head opening has black trim running all along the edge. Brow trim should be positioned ¼" above the eyes. Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks must be dremmelled or engraved into helmet. Cracks may be painted in metalic gold paint OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath. Vocoder is tubular in nature with 7 vertical tubes. A visible gap must be present between the Vocoder and the helmet. The inside of each tear will be a raised area that is grey, with 8 engraved black lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The frown shall be recessed to the proper depth, unlike standard ANH. The inside of each rear trap will be a raised area that is grey, with 13 engraved black vertical lines, hand painted lines like ANH are not permitted. The inside of each side trap will be a raised area that is grey. There is a small bump in the right eye socket (when worn) under the lens as an intended flaw to pay tribute to the original trilogy designers. Green LED that can be switched on and off representing both living and the reserected Night trooper shall be fitted behind the lenses. TK anh stunt neckseal.jpeg Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Cracks must be dremmelled or engraved into helmet. Cracks must be gold leaf, gold paint is not permitted. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top, where visible shall be fully ribbed with all horizontal ribbing on the arms, chest, and back. The centre of chest and back may be mesh as long as it is covered by armor. Pants shall be black non-textured material and have horizontal ribbing at the knees only. Knee gaskets are allowed as long as they correctly match top ribbing material, spacing and color. The hip section shall not have ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): All ribbing on knees, arms, chest, and back must be stitched between each rib in detail and proportion to official references. The armpit area shall have the correct hexagonal mesh detail Shoulder Straps They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Upper Arm Armor Both biceps are symmetrical and interchangeable. The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Forearm Armor The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Hand Plates Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Gloves Black in color, made of Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. Rubber ANH style gloves are not permitted. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon. Palms of gloves shall be shiny black fabric or leather or leather-like material. On the index finger shall be a stitched piece of fabric made from the same material as the hand's underside that while stitched to the finger has one cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Chest Armor Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert. The chest and back sides shall be connected by black extensions pieces. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Top pectoral out lines swoop correctly outward. Bottom of ribcage flares correctly outward. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Back Armor Back plate contains an "O II" design. There are raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate section beneath which the shoulder straps insert. The backplate continues past these trapezoids towards the top of the shoulder Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top of box wall has a trapezoidal indentation. There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backplate. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bottom of backplate is curved and extends past abdominal back cover plate. The O cog shall have 16 spines. The 11 bars have 5 horizontal evenly spaced raised bars on the bottom of the face. There is a rectangular tab protruding from the bottom of each of the two raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Abdomen Armor The abdominal armor consists of a one-piece corset design with a vertical opening centered on the back. The back opening is covered by a rectangular cover plate that is worn under the back armor. There are 3 vertical ribs centered on the front of the abdomen and two (one left and one right) ribs further spaced to each side of the center. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) ribs on each side of the abdominal armor. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) recessed ribs on each side of the abdominal armor behind the raised angled ribs that are black Any side shims added are to be added to the white areas of the armor. The center front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel. On the right half of the panel, there is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. On the left half of the panel, there is a vertical column of raised evenly spaced horizontal gear teeth with a recessed trapezoid at the top of the column. The rectangular inside bottom of the trapezoid is black. The left front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel with an angled top. There is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately ⁷⁄₁₆" (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. The right front detail consists of a primary raised rectangular panel with an additional secondary raised rectangular panel covering the top ⅓ of the primary panel. There is a column of three thin horizontal evenly spaced raised lines across the top ½ of the secondary panel. The abdominal armor is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod armor is separate from the abdominal armor. The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The abdomen armor has two horizontal recessed rectangles centered above the center front detail panel and on each side of the center rib. All 8 Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge, only the recessed portion is painted. The center front panel column of raised gear teeth has only 9 teeth. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along all four sides around the face of the center front panel The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. There is a recessed edge (approximately ⅛" 3mm wide) along the sides and top around the face of the left front detail pane The abdominal armor back cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Cod Armor The cod armor consists of a body shape formed triangular plate with a raised center rib and raised lower portion and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Kidney Armor The kidney armor is separated in the back and covered by a rectangular plate. The rectangular plate is separate from the posterior armor. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Posterior Armor The posterior armor shall be a separate piece from the abdominal armor Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Belt The Ammunition belt consists of a hard belt made of the same or similar material as the armor in two separate parts front and back (with overlap). The back belt overlaps the front belt on the sides. There are 6 ammunition boxes mounted to the belt. There are 2 (one left and one right) drop boxes suspended by black webbing approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Drop boxes must be accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The ammunition belt is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The only detail visible on the front belt is the mounted ammunition boxes unlike the squares present on ANH belts. The top edge of the front belt has protruding teeth that nest inside gaps between the ribs and detail panels of the abdominal armor. The two center ammunition boxes are thinner than the other mounted ammunition boxes. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes are slightly wider than the two center ammunition boxes. The two outermost ammunition boxes are almost square. The two drop boxes are rectangular and as wide as the mounted square boxes. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The ammo boxes across the front are all made separately from the main belt and are secured to it The two drop boxes hang no more than 1" 25mm below the front belt and the black strap is visible. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes have trapezoid detail on the top of each ammunition box. The front belt protrudes past all mounted ammunition boxes above and below by approximately ⅛"–¼" 3–6mm. All ammunition boxes have slightly beveled edges on the face of each box. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Thermal Detonator The thermal detonator consists of a grey tube approximately 3" 76mm in diameter and 8" 203mm long approximately. There are two white endcaps and a white control panel. The white control panel has a horizontal row of white rectangles along the bottom of the control panel and a grey “D” shaped recessed on the left side of the horizontal row. There is an oval greeble that protrudes from the control near the top right side. The thermal detonator is mounted to the rear hard belt and there are no visible screws or clips and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator mount should be fully enclosed with solid walls on all four sides. The center of both end caps is gray. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The control panel bottom detail is a raised panel with 7 raised rectangles, all are evenly spaced except the right most rectangle. There is a panel line approximately ¼" 6mm from the edge around the control panel. There is a panel line approximately ⅛" 3mm from the edge of each endcap. The inside edge of both endcaps is beveled. The oval greeble consists of an oval tube protrusion with the top edge slightly extending past the tube wall thickness and is visually similar to the Deathtrooper chin greeble. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Thigh Armor The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour. The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled at approximately 45 degrees. Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1" 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle that is covered by black webbing or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. Lower Leg Armor The greaves are mirrored for each leg and are not interchangeable. The top edge of the greaves has a raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The bottom edge of the greaves flairs out to cover the top of the ankle and boots. The cover strips are beveled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Greaves are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the top of the left greave and there are no visible screws or rivets. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the vertical cover strip and the top raised edge detail on the greave and is accurate in detail and proportion to official reference. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The sniper knee plate has raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The sniper knee plate has 3 trapezoidal lugs on each side and 2 on the center bottom edge (totalling 8) of the knee plate. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Boots Boots are above ankle height and the same style as the First Order TK. Chelsea type boots in the style of OT TK are not acceptable. Boots are all white and made of leather or leather-like material Flat black soles without a heel. Patent leather or high gloss is not permitted. Light to medium weathering as per references Cracks may be painted on surface in metalic gold paint. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic. Weathering details, Gold and gray adorntments etc to be added. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. E-11 Blaster Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. "Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not an authorized accessory for rogue One armor". Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. A small flashlight can be mounted on the right side of the blaster centred over the T-Tracks. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Flashlight if fitted shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.
  9. -- EDIT 08/31/2022-- Future Jason here, I just wanted to provide this colorful edit to help explain how I'm going to handle additions to this original post. Initially, I was striking out verbiage as it was written, then adding new text, but it was getting messy. I will continue using strike through text whenever I remove something from the existing CRL, but will follow that up with red text indicating the agreed upon change. Of note, I will try not to make any of these changes unless it's captured in this conversation, but I am receiving input from detachment leadership in addition to what's captured here. If anything ever appears in the CRL text below that a person does not recall discussing, please let us know so the discussion can continue. What I absolutely refuse to do is create ambiguous text, or what I refer to as a "moving target CRL." Any edits to my original post will be written in yellow so you can follow the changes easier; I will also date any revision/ edit. So again, CRL changes/ additions in red instructions/ original post edits in yellow. Thanks, TK-51923 Fellow TKs. After several discussions regarding the inclusion of Remnant Stormtroopers, as seen in The Mandalorian seasons 1 and 2 into the Databank, we have decided to move forward with the creation of a CRL. The goal in developing this thread is to create a CRL specific to the heavily weathered Remnants serving Werner Herzog's "The Client" as well as those seen in Season 2 episode 7 The Believer, working in the rhydonium refinery on the planet Morak. For previous discussion on this topic, please see the following thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48305-new-anthology-tk-crl/ Additionally, for reference, please see the following picture: Additionally, since we have several new references to draw from since the creation of the original Rogue One TK CRL and it's subsequent revision in 2020, this thread will also serve to address revisions to the current ROTK CRL and the potential creation of a separate CRL for the New Generation/ Anthology TK. Discussions are ongoing regarding how to handle this generation of TK armor that has become synonymous with the Anthology films and various Disney+ series. This includes the existing ROTK, which could be renamed, receive additional variations, remain unchanged, or none of the above. However, one item that has been emphasized to me from detachment staff is that we have to clearly show that this is a unique set of armor without stating "it's dirty." Additionally, we have found several instances in which items were either missing, broken, or taped together by the costume department for the respective productions; these discrepancies will not be included in any new CRL or revisions to existing CRLs. The goal of this thread is to identify the unique attributes of the costume that are uniform throughout all of it's appearances in Anthology films and Disney+ productions, not to capture broken or missing items. Things that will not be considered: broken thigh armor, drop boxes tucked into the thighs or missing altogether, missing TDs, and "$#1++y wardrobe dressing or stunt men with gaffer tape." I'm not going to say who's quote that was. With that said, we obviously have an ANH OT bucket resting atop Rogue One style armor. These are on prominent display, but there's other unique characteristics as well. This is our opportunity to post them up and start hashing out the details. Please take a look at the aforementioned thread, but I also intend on posting several of the pictures here. To get started, I will post the verbiage from our current ROTK CRL, and include the wording from the ANH Stunt helmet. I will continue updating everything as we go along and highlight any changes in red. Additionally, even though this isn't a New Generation/ Anthology CRL, we need to capture anything in the New Generation gear that hasn't been covered previously. If there's new things that have been discovered, please post them. Let's get started: Helmet Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional. Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present. Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted. Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps only. Not three. Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes). Ideally, placement of ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of the trap above them Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile. Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details). Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. The vocoder must be integrated into the helmet, and not a separate piece. Neck Seal Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck Under Suit Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top, where visible shall be fully ribbed with all horizontal ribbing on the arms, chest, and back. The centre of chest and back may be mesh as long as it is covered by armor. Pants shall be black non-textured material and have horizontal ribbing at the knees only. Knee gaskets are allowed as long as they correctly match top ribbing material, spacing and color. The hip section shall not have ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): All ribbing on knees, arms, chest, and back must be stitched between each rib in detail and proportion to official references. The armpit area shall have the correct hexagonal mesh detail Shoulder Straps Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 They may be affixed with Velcro or adhesive. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall be inserted behind the chest tabs and into slots of the backplate. Shoulder Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Upper Arm (Bicep) Armor 8/31/2022 Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Both biceps are symmetrical and interchangeable. The front strip is bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. The biceps are suspended from the shoulder armor via shock cord (bungee/ framilon cordage) via "J hooks" at the top of the biceps per the screen references. 8/31/2022 A separate piece of white 1" webbing or elastic, extends from the shoulder armor, through a slot in the bicep per the screen references. 8/31/2022 Forearm Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The front strip is bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints. Hand Plates Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand guards shall be made of plastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hand guards should follow the correct RO shape, ANH hand guards are not acceptable. A small indent in the front of the hand plate shall be present. Gloves Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Black in color, made of either rubber, Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall not be made of rubber. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon. Palms of gloves shall be shiny black fabric or leather or leather-like material. On the index finger shall be a stitched piece of fabric made from the same material as the hand's underside that while stitched to the finger has one cutout towards the end of the finger that reveals the netted material underneath. Gloves shall have the correct leather pattern along the fingers/palm. Chest Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There are raised trapezoids at the top of the shoulder section beneath which the straps insert. The chest and back sides shall be connected by black extensions pieces. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Top pectoral out lines swoop correctly outward. Bottom of ribcage flares correctly outward. Back Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Back plate contains an "O II" design. There are raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate section beneath which the shoulder straps insert. The backplate continues past these trapezoids towards the top of the shoulder OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Top of box wall has a trapezoidal indentation. There is a roughly 8mm circular indent near the right top corner of the backplate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bottom of backplate is curved and extends past abdominal back cover plate. The O cog shall have 16 spines. The 11 bars have 5 horizontal evenly spaced raised bars on the bottom of the face. There is a rectangular tab protruding from the bottom of each of the two raised trapezoids at the top of the backplate. Abdomen Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The abdominal armor consists of a one-piece corset design with a vertical opening centred on the back. The back opening is covered by a rectangular cover plate that is worn under the back armor. There are 3 vertical ribs centered on the front of the abdomen and two (one left and one right) ribs further spaced to each side of the center. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) ribs on each side of the abdominal armor. There are two (one left and one right) angled (approximately 70 degrees) recessed ribs on each side of the abdominal armor behind the raised angled ribs that are black Any side shims added are to be added to the white areas of the armor. The center front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel. On the right half of the panel, there is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. On the left half of the panel, there is a vertical column of raised evenly spaced horizontal gear teeth with a recessed trapezoid at the top of the column. The rectangular inside bottom of the trapezoid is black. The left front detail consists of a raised rectangular panel with an angled top. There is a vertical column of 4 buttons approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. The bottom button is blue while the other three are grey. The right front detail consists of a primary raised rectangular panel with an additional secondary raised rectangular panel covering the top 1/3 of the primary panel. There is a column of three thin horizontal evenly spaced raised lines across the top ½ of the secondary panel. The abdominal armor is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod armor is separate from the abdominal armour. The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The abdomen armor has two horizontal recessed rectangles centred above the center front detail panel and on each side of the center rib. All 8 Button details are recessed and bordered with a thin edge, only the recessed portion is painted. The center front panel column of raised gear teeth has only 9 teeth. There is a recessed edge (approximately 1/8” 3mm wide) along all four sides around the face of the center front panel The right front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical right ribs. The left front detail panel is centered between the two outer vertical left ribs. There is a recessed edge (approximately 1/8” 3mm wide) along the sides and top around the face of the left front detail pane The abdominal armor back cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Move to "kidney armor" section. Cod Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The cod armor consists of a body shape formed triangular plate with a raised center rib and raised lower portion and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate 8/31/2022 Removed from Level Two certification. Having this as a level 2 requirement instead of basic may lead people to use OT amor in constructing their kits or create abdominal/ cod pieces that are not accurate to any available references for this costume. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod shall be a separate piece from the abdominal plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Kidney Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The kidney armor is separated in the back and covered by a rectangular kidney/ trauma plate. 8/31/2022 The rectangular plate is separate from the posterior armor and sits above the rear hard belt. 8/31/2022 OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The kidney/ trauma plate is large enough to cover the entire gap present in the rear of the abdominal armor and extends up underneath the back armor. 8/31/2022 OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The kidney armor cover plate has two protruding tabs along the bottom that rest inside the back hard belt. Posterior Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The posterior armor shall be a separate piece from the abdominal armor OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The Ammunition belt consists of a hard belt made of the same or similar material as the armor in two separate parts front and back (with overlap). The back front belt overlaps the front rear belt on the sides. 8/31/2022 There are 6 ammunition boxes mounted to the belt. There are 2 (one left and one right) drop boxes suspended by black webbing approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Drop boxes must be accurate in detail and proportion to official references. The ammunition belt is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The only detail visible on the front belt is the mounted ammunition boxes unlike the squares present on ANH belts. The top edge of the front belt has protruding teeth that nest inside gaps between the ribs and detail panels of the abdominal armor. The two center ammunition boxes are thinner than the other mounted ammunition boxes. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes are slightly wider than the two center ammunition boxes. The two outermost ammunition boxes are almost square. The two drop boxes are rectangular and as wide as the mounted square boxes. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The ammo boxes across the front are all made separately from the main belt and are secured to it The two drop boxes hang no more than 1” 25mm below the front belt and the black strap is visible. The second and fifth mounted ammunition boxes have a trapezoid detail on the top of each ammunition box. The trapezoid detail is a triangular prism that has no rounded edges. 8/31/2022 The front belt protrudes past above all mounted ammunition boxes above and below by approximately 1/8”-1/4” 3-6mm. The front belt protrudes approximately 1/2" below the front 4 ammo boxes in a trapezoidal shape that extends from the center of both medium sized ammo boxes where it tapers to 1/8"-1/4" (3-6mm) below the ammo boxes across the remaining span of the belt per the official references. 8/31/2022 All ammunition boxes, including the drop boxes, have slightly bevelled chamfered edges on the face of each box. 8/31/2022 Thermal Detonator Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The thermal detonator consists of a grey tube approximately 3” 76mm in diameter and 8” 203mm long approximately. There are two white endcaps and a white control panel. The white control panel has a horizontal row of white rectangles along the bottom of the control panel and a grey “D” shaped recessed on the left side of the horizontal row. There is an oval greeble that protrudes from the control near the top right side. The thermal detonator is mounted to the rear hard belt and there are no visible screws or clips and is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thermal detonator mount should be fully enclosed with solid walls on all four sides. The center of both end caps is gray. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The control panel bottom detail is a raised panel with 7 raised rectangles, all are evenly spaced except the right most rectangle. There is a panel line approximately ¼” 6mm from the edge around the control panel. There is a panel line approximately 1/8” 3mm from the edge of each endcap. The inside edge of both endcaps is bevelled. The oval greeble consists of an oval tube protrusion with the top edge slightly extending past the tube wall thickness and is visually similar to the Deathtrooper chin greeble. The thermal detonator is made separate from the mount and secured to it. 8/31/2022 I added this due to the number of instances in which we've seen the TD disconnected from it's mount or missing on screen. Similar to the belt boxes, the TD should be separate, but fixed to the mount appropriately as per the screen references. Thigh Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The thigh armor is mirrored for each leg and not interchangeable. The cover strips are bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the thigh and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. The top edge of the thigh armor is unadorned, and the bottom edge has a raised detail that fallows the bottom edge contour. The small ammo belt consists of 5 evenly spaced rectangle ammunition boxes and is installed on the bottom of the right thigh, there are no visible screws or rivets. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thighs are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. 8/31/2022 Thigh armor has been seen several times separated (flexible) in the rear, but never worn in the same manner as the arms (bungee cords/ framilon cordage). Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. Rear cover strips will close outside over inside, i.e. left over right for the left thigh and Right over Left for the right thigh. 8/31/2022 OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The bottom outside edges of the small ammunition belt are angled chamfered at approximately 45 degrees. Thigh armor is suspended by a black strap approximately 1” 25mm in width with a plastic side release buckle tri-glide buckle that is covered by black webbing fabric or elastic that runs down the side seam of the leg. 8/31/2022 Lower Leg Armor Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 The greaves are mirrored for each leg and are not interchangeable. The top edge of the greaves has a raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The bottom edge of the greaves flairs out to cover the top of the ankle and boots. The cover strips are bevelled and approximately 1/8" thick that does not extend beyond the greave and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Greaves are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the front and rear joints. The trapezoid knee plate (sniper knee plate) is affixed to the top of the left greave and there are no visible screws or rivets. Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the vertical cover strip and the top raised edge detail on the greave and is accurate in detail and proportion to official reference. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The sniper knee plate has raised detail that fallows the top edge contour. The sniper knee plate has 3 trapezoidal lugs on each side and 2 on the center bottom edge (totalling 8) of the knee plate. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Boots Moderate to heavily weathered 8/24/2022 Boots are above ankle height and the same style as the First Order TK. Chelsea type boots in the style of OT TK are not acceptable. Boots are all white and made of leather or leather-like material Flat black soles without a heel. Patent leather or high gloss is not permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. E-11 Blaster Weathering is optional 8/24/2022 Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. "Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not an authorized accessory for rogue One armor". Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster centred over the T-Tracks. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. SE-14r Light Repeating Blaster Weathering is optional 8/24/2022 SE-14r Light Repeating Blaster. The barrel detailing is evident with the cocking lever and slider in place. The ejection port is also evident. The scope mount looks similar to the magazine but smaller in size. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): E-22 Blaster Weathering is optional 8/24/2022 Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. It has a extended stock attached at the rear and a extended front housing with second lower barrel. Tactical flashlight (Surefire scout M300 or replica) mounted on right side of barrel. Magazine is extended length. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinders Scope is a M38 1943 version Scope rail is fitted onto rail blocks, one inside the rear sight and the other at the front end of the rail. There are 3 swivel studs fitted, one on the rear stock and one each side of the front barrel housing. Sling is 25mm webbing strap that is adjustable using a silver 25mm 3 fixed bar webbing buckle (optional). Sling is fitted with Talon quick release 25mm swivel or replica (optional). Red lights fitted on both sides of the rear housing, Hengstler fitted with a red light for the 3 forward tubes and 2 small red lights fitted into the rear barrel housing under the torch, the lights are permanent and are non flashing or pulsed (optional hero version only). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring) Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders Sling is fitted with Talon quick release 25mm swivel. Pauldron Rogue One Pauldrons denote rank or mission specialization. The Rogue One Pauldron is specific to Rogue One and differs from the original trilogy in color and stitching. Original trilogy Pauldrons are not an authorized accessory for Rogue One armor. An Orange, white, or black ornament made of leather plastic or leather-like material, worn over the right shoulder. The Orange is specific to Rogue One and a different shade from the original trilogy. A red pauldron as seen in The Mandalorian Chapter 14, may be worn as part of the New Generation TK costume, but not as a Rogue One stormtrooper. 8/31/2022 The colored panel is divided into three sections by color matched stitching to conform to the wearers shoulder and has black piping around the outside edge. The remainder of the Pauldron is black and divided by black stitching into 10 segments. The neck closure is black and has two black snaps visible. There is a black elastic strap that runs from back to front and is worn under the bicep to hold the Pauldron in place. The strap is conned to the Pauldron on top by two black snaps inlayed in black “D” shaped leather or leather-like ends. The underside of the Pauldron is white regardless of top color and is divided with white stitching into 13 segments. The entire outside edge is finished with black piping and the underside of the neck closure is black. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  10. Finally, after having bits and pieces except the armour since 2017, I managed to get my hands on an ANOVOS TFA kit, and so finally my build can commence! Armour, Helmet and Neck Seal: Anovos TFA Gaskets: Imperial Gaskets (rubber) Boots and Gloves: Imperial boots Undersuit: Stormtrooperundersuit F11D Blaster: 3D Print As I build, I will be linking those parts here for easy reference instead of scrolling through every post. Disclaimer: I am intending to build this to Level 3 certification, so hopefully the CRL doesn't change drastically during my build. Comments are welcome! And here's the kit in all its glory. Washed with mild soap to remove any release agents that might be on the plastic. The basic tools that I am using: Cutting and Sanding Proxxon Handheld Jigsaw for cutting ABS: https://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/38530.php Belt Sander for fast sanding Proxxon Handheld Belt Sander for finer but still fast sanding: https://www.proxxon.com/us/micromot/38536.php Files, various grades of sandpaper for final sanding Adhesives CA Glue for small quick joints Weicon epoxy for final and large joints: https://www.weicon.de/en/applications/bonding-and-sealing/linking-major-parts/for-large-bond-gaps/54/easy-mix-n-50-epoxy-adhesive Weicon Epoxy glue dispenser gun and mixing nozzle Cutting the pieces Every piece was first outlined with a marker pen to understand where to cut off. I tool care to use references and other build threads to see where there would be return edges, and where there wouldn't. Golden rule: MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE. BUILD INDEX CHEST PART 1 CHEST PART 2 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 1 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 2 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 3 THERMAL DETONATOR PART 4 YOKE AND BACK FOREARMS PART 1 FOREARM BAD PULL REPAIR FOREARMS PART 2 THIGHS BICEPS HELMET HANDPLATES COD PIECE PART 1 COD PIECE PART 2 POSTERIOR PIECE PART 1 POSTERIOR PIECE PART 2 SHOULDER BELLS PART 1 SHOULDER BELLS PART 2 ABDOMEN PART 1 ABDOMEN PART 2 SHOULDER TABS SHINS PART 1 SHINS PART 2 BELT BOXES PART 1 BELT BOXES PART 2 BELT POUCHES PART 1 BELT POUCHES PART 2 BELT ASSEMBLY ANKLE SPATS PART 1 ANKLE SPATS PART 2 GASKETS PART 1 GASKETS PART 2 LEGS ASSEMBLY COMPLETED PHOTOS SUITED UP PHOTOS CRL CLARIFICATIONS THIGHS AND BICEPS INNER SEAM OVERLAP
  11. Soft Goods & Accessories Discussion Placing this section a bit out of order near the top, because I'm sure many people are will be wondering... what else do I need order to finish out the suit? Well, let's get into it. 21. Gloves As far as I am aware, there are currently two options for gloves - either Endor Finders on the left, or TrooperBay on the right. Both have their benefits, which I'll get into, but overall, I think I prefer the Endor Finders. Endor Finders In general, I feel the Endor Finders are ever so slightly higher quality, though the soft inner lining will likely get removed, as I did with my all black Rogue One TK gloves from them. I'd rather have cooler hands in the California heat. Both sets of gloves had visible purple staining on the white leather as delivered, from the black thread in the palms and likely just transfer from the material, and the EF gloves also had a clear imprint where the outline of the thumb left a slight impression on the leather of the palm as well. If I purchased these again, I would go for the option to have white palm thread, and while less accurate, I would likely (painstakingly) color in the thread myself with a black paint pen or something that would not stain purple (NOT SHARPIE). TrooperBay These were an older pair of gloves from TrooperBay that came with my fiberglass kit purchase years ago, so I will say I am unsure of the quality when new. They're decent gloves overall, but pretty thin and they are also stained purple on the white leather all over. The handguards are resin cast from original, from Dantooine Props and attached with velcro to the gloves. 22. Boots I have had a pair of boots from Imperial Boots Keep Trooping since I started my ROTK project and will be utilizing them. They're high quality, fit great, and are more comfortable than disco boots. 23. Neckseal, Undersuit/Gaskets & Shiny Shorts I'll likely be using my neckseal and shirt from Sheev's Emporium (which has the awesome and accurate angle change on the arm gasket ribbing), and knee gaskets. I originally ordered them with pants, but I think I'm just going to cut the pants part off of it and have them be sleeves with velcro on the ends like the Denuo Novo ones, but so that they match. The pants were a good idea and they are generally well-made, but make things more complicated. The shiny shorts are from Teresa at Geeky Pink's Phantastic Gaskets, who also make excellent soft parts for FOTKs. The included Denuo Novo gaskets actually look okay but would need to be tailored and are oddly just like... inside out. They have a more shiny/rubbery interior and a cloth exterior - I would just wear them inside out, but would need to remove and resew the velcro, and turn the seams inside out as well. Maybe if I'm having them tailored to fit anyways, but probably not worth the time when I have my Sheev ones. I have no interest in owning actual rubber gaskets at this time and consider their specific mention unnecessary even at L3 - no way would I survive trooping in the Southern California heat anyways. If that's your thing, I believe they are available from Thorsson and Associates. 24. Belt Pouches It should be noted that the tallest pouch that Denuo Novo included does not really fit the largest belt box plate (38A), so I will be utilizing one from TrooperBay instead. 25. Blaster 26. Accessories
  12. Name: Ardeshir Radpour Username: equuspolo TK-42128 Southern California Garrison Los Angeles Squadron Height = 5'10 Weight = 165 Armor Maker = Denuo Novo Helmet Maker = Modified Anovos Premium Boot Maker = Imperial Boots Gloves = Endor Finders Belt = Denuo Novo Belt Pouches = Denuo Novo and Trooperbay Pauldron = Denuo Novo Neck Seal = Denuo Novo Holster Maker = Damtooine props and Denuo Novo Gaskets = production made silicon rubber gaskets F-11 = Branfuhr Studios Resin Kit- Custom built by me with custom light system. SE-44C = 3DPrintMerchant Electronics = Wireless Microphone with Acker Amp Custom Parts = Chest yoke and Backplate welded together with ABS Slurry. Chest Pills and Chest cut out backed with Textured Fabric, TD custom modified Denuo Novo. Belt, Cod, Butt Plate and TD attached to armer with custom Made Anovos leather waist tassets. Holster Dantooine props, urethane spats from Sanitized Creations 2 Special Details Denuo Novo Spats Sanitized Creations Urethane Spats F-11 rear tab and ring options SE-44C working light gasket fit
  13. Name: Ardeshir Radpour Username: equuspolo TK-42128 Southern California Garrison Los Angeles Squadron Height = 5'10 Weight = 165 Armor Maker = Denuo Novo Helmet Maker = Denuo Novo Premium Boot Maker = Imperial Boots Gloves = Endor Finders Belt = Denuo Novo Belt Pouches = Denuo Novo and Trooperbay Pauldron = Denuo Novo Neck Seal = Denuo Novo Holster Maker = Damtooine props and Denuo Novo Gaskets = production made silicon rubber gaskets F-11 = Branfuhr Studios Resin Kit- Custom built by me with custom light system. SE-44C = 3DPrintMerchant Electronics = Wireless Microphone with Acker Amp Custom Parts = Chest yoke and Backplate welded together with ABS Slurry. Chest Pills and Chest cut out backed with Textured Fabric, TD custom modified Denuo Novo. Belt, Cod, Butt Plate and TD attached to armer with custom Made Anovos leather waist tassets. Holster Dantooine props, urethane spats from Sanitized Creations abs spats urethane spats corrected without picatinny rail SE-44C
  14. In this HOW TO I'll be illustrating how to modify and attach Wyatt's Imperial cloth gaskets to a FOTK under suit from stormtrooperundersuit.com. After receiving my gaskets from Wyatt my first impression was they appeared flat in thickness in comparison to the rubber gaskets. No disrespect to Wyatt's wife for making these excellent gaskets however, being I can never leave well enough alone I decided to add to the perfection and increase their thickness. Something that also frustrated me about most the gaskets out there was having to buckle the left and right arms together or velcro the gasket to the armor. I wanted something that would basically be part of the under suit itself so that I could step into my armor with less effort, like with a OT TK. To do this I found it easier to just sew the Imperial gaskets directly to the under suit. Items needed: Cloth Imperial Gaskets Under suit form stormtrooperundersuit.com 2" x 6" black Velcro (sew in type) 2 yards of 1/2" polyester filler 2 yards of fabric backing to seal in the filler Tools: Scissors Exacto or similar (split seams) Fabric pencil or similar Sewing machine Imperial gaskets Stormtrooperundersuit.com under suit Starting with the legs, measure, cut and sew filler and backing to underside of knee gaskets. Next, remove stitching from shoulder gaskets seems Sew in filler and backing. With the shoulder gaskets turned inside out, sew the seams together that you separated earlier. Before After. Notice any difference? Returning to the legs. Locate the center of the leg gaskets. Cut a 2" x 2-1/2" section of velcro. Note This only applies if you currently have velcro retaining your knee cap armor. If not you may want to switch or find a way to incorporate your mount into the gaskets. Place the velcro on the fabric and outline Sew in place At this point there's two ways you can go here, either sew the seams together creating a round gasket where the outer diameter is the same at the top and bottom, or you can taper it, like the shape of your leg. If you want to taper it, using a fabric tape ruler measure the upper and lower legs where the gaskets will reside when finished. Cut the fabric accordingly giving yourself 1/2" extra for the sewing seam. Another way to do this is to turn the gasket inside out, wrap it around your leg overlapping one side, using a fabric pencil mark the over lapped section. Don't forget to add 1/2" for seam. Sew the seam. After With the armor knee cap. With under suit With armor, test fit Ready to sew in place Install leg and shoulder gaskets. Mark under suit and gasket locations. Sew in place. Cut of shoulder gasket connecting straps as they are no longer needed After, front side After, back side Finished I'll try to get a few more pictures with better angles.
  15. Since I am going to build this for centurion, I will need to get rubber gaskets. This seems to be a challenge as Imperial gaskets is no longer making them. Does anyone know of another place to source good rubber gaskets, or will I need to figure out a way to make them myself?
  16. Below are the parts I'll be using for my build and a few prices and links: TLJ Armor Armor = Denuo Novo ($700*) Helmet = Anovos TLJ plastic Boot Maker = Imperial Boots Keep Trooping "Trooper" ($120) Gloves = Endor Finders ($55) Belt = Denuo Novo Belt Pouches = Denuo Novo + Trooperbay ($68) Neck Seal = Sheev's Emporium ($65) Holster = Dantooine Props (€75*) Handguards = Dantooine Props Spats = Sanotized Creations ($35) Greeblies = 3D Printed, mrpoopie/TheRascalKing files Thermal Detonator = 3D Printed, Jesse M files Gaskets = Sheev's Emporium F-11D Blaster = Classified Shoulder Bell Support Brackets = @ukswrath Chest Pill Mesh = @ukswrath TFA Conversion Helmet = Anovos TFA w/ VaderPainter Aerator Forearms = Imperial Surplus ($105) Cod = Imperial Surplus ($45) Thermal Detonator = Denuo Novo Executioner Conversion Helmet = KB Props ($150*)? with Ople Props Lense ($31) Back Yoke = Imperial Surplus ($160) Shoulders = Imperial Surplus ($55) Decals = Trooperbay ($8) Primer = SEM 39133 Flexible Primer Surfacer and SEM 42043 White High Build Primer Paint = SprayMAX 2K DTM Gloss White Topcoat Custom color-matched aerosol white Behr Premium #52 White Gloss Paint + Primer ($6/can) BPrices and links are for US and do not include shipping, but might help to know when available! *'s indicate the list price, but that I purchased them at a discount.
  17. Name: Ardeshir Radpour Username: equuspolo TK-42128 Southern California Garrison Los Angeles Squadron Height = 5'10 Weight = 165 Armor Maker = Denuo Novo Helmet Maker = Denuo Novo Premium Boot Maker = Imperial Boots Gloves = Endor Finders Belt = Denuo Novo Belt Pouches = Denuo Novo and Trooperbay Pauldron = Denuo Novo Neck Seal = Denuo Novo Holster Maker = Dantooine props and Denuo Novo Gaskets = production made silicon rubber gaskets F-11 = Branfuhr Studios Resin Kit- Custom built by me with custom light system. SE-44C = 3DPrintMerchant Axe = 3DPrintMerchant Electronics = Wireless Microphone with Acker Amp Custom Parts = Chest yoke and Backplate welded together with ABS Slurry. Chest Pills and Chest cut out backed with Textured Fabric, TD custom modified Denuo Novo. Belt, Cod, Butt Plate and TD attached to armer with custom Made Anovos leather waist tassets. urethane spats from Sanitized Creations 2 special details Denuo Novo Abs Spats Sanitized Creations urethane soats gasket fit
  18. Well the boxes have begun to arrive. So excited http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/ukswrath1/ANOVOS/TFA/Brown%20Box.jpg Tools: Exacto knifes (large & small) Lexan Scissors http://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Body-Scissors-Reamer-3-Piece/dp/B007KN0RQM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1441204195&sr=8-2&keywords=lexan+scissors&pebp=1441204247995&perid=1E2086K8TZ8RZFFQEB6K Optional but highly recommended: Dremel (or equivalent) http://www.amazon.com/WEN-2307-Variable-100-Piece-Accessories/dp/B00A8DXKXS/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1441204317&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel&pebp=1441204320209&perid=07G870JQ8R30T9MKD32X Optional but highly recommended: Dremel plastic cutting wheel http://www.amazon.com/Gyros-46-20199-Cutter-Dremel-8-Inch/dp/B000U5ZZXC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1441204290&sr=8-4&keywords=dremel+plastic+cutter+wheel Optional but highly recommended: Dremel small carbide cutting bit, large and small sanding drums - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OTIZ4I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 Drill with 7/32" & 3/8" drill bits Steel ruler (large & small) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Cut-Resistant-Large-Gloves-7008-06/205813582 Square http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Cut-Resistant-Large-Gloves-7008-06/205813582 40+ magnets http://www.ebay.com/itm/281363537848?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 10+ assorted clamps http://www.homedepot.com/p/OLYMPIA-Clamp-Kit-14-Piece-73-293-107/205742057 Pencil Sharpie Optional but highly recommended: Belt Sander 4" x 36" - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAXSYT8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 Optional but highly recommended: Hand Sander http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-Mouse-Detail-Sander-MS800B/100671602 Optional but highly recommended: Hand Sander additional 220 grit finishing sand paper http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-3-7-8-in-x-5-1-2-in-220-Grit-CAT-Mouse-Detail-Sanding-Sheet-with-Hook-and-Lock-Backing-DCTCAT220H05G/202830877 Optional but highly recommended: Hand Sander additional sanding and polishing pads (kit) - http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-Mouse-Sanding-Polishing-Kit-74-580/204735220 200 & 250 grit sanding blocks http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Pro-Grade-Precision-4-1-2-in-x-2-1-2-in-x-1-in-220-Grit-X-Fine- Optional: Heat Gun - http://www.amazon.com/1500-Watt-Temperature-572%C2%B0F-1112%C2%B0F/dp/B0053U2B8G/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1442428572&sr=1-2&keywords=heat+gun Spot putty spreader - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JMORQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01 Material: 3M Scotch Bright pad (light grey, fine grit) Wet & Dry sand paper for final and pre-paint prep - 3M 26400PGP-4 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Pro-Grade-Precision-9-in-x-11-in-400-Grit-X-Fine-Advanced-Sanding-Sheets-4-Pack-26400PGP-4/205415931 Sanding block - http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-2-5-8-in-x-4-3-4-in-x-1-1-4-in-Sanding-Block-9292NA-6-CC/100142732 Painter's tape http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-ScotchBlue-1-88-in-x-60-yds-Advanced-Multi-Surface-Painter-s-Tape-with-Edge-Lock-2093EL-48N/203085525 E6000 http://www.homedepot.com/p/E6000-2-oz-Clear-Adhesive-6-Pack-237032/205382750?cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-205382750&ci_sku=205382750&ci_gpa=pla&ci_src=17588969&gclid=Cj0KEQjwvJqvBRCL77m2-uKczsIBEiQAkx8VjKypOZN0aqqOK82w4MXdTzgcl6h3dPgSAOWUFl5vGfEaAh6C8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds CA glue (zap a gap) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zap-PT-01-Zap-A-Gap-Medium-CA-Glue-2-oz-ounces-NEW-Unopened-/400775409865?hash=item5d501370c9, Zip kicker http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pacer-Technology-Zap-PT15-Zap-Adhesives-Zip-Kicker-2-oz-/131592610768?hash=item1ea387e3d0 Plexus MA310 epoxy (old mfg Devcon Plastic welder II 14340), x3 - https://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Purpose-Strength-Adhesive-cartridge/dp/B06ZY7KMWD/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Plexus+MA310&qid=1587473596&s=industrial&sr=1-1 Epoxy gun x1 - https://www.amazon.com/MixPac-DMA50-Dispensing-Adhesive-Cartridges/dp/B00KACZ8AU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=MixPac+DMA50&qid=1562526455&s=industrial&sr=1-2 Extra epoxy mixing tips (12 pack) - https://www.amazon.com/3M-38191-Static-Cartridges-Nozzles/dp/B00596QVHG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Mixing+Nozzle%2C+38191&qid=1587473788&s=lawn-garden&sr=8-1 Strapping (suspension system) & Connection Material: 2" wide Velcro, 3M Industrial Strength, (black), Gasket to armor connection (armor side) - http://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-brand-4-ft-x-2-in-Industrial-Strength-Tape-90595/202261932. 1-1/2: wide (sew in, black) Velcro, Country Brook Design, Gasket to armor connection (gasket side) - http://www.amazon.com/Country-Brook-Design%C2%AE-Inches-Velcro%C2%AE/dp/B003KWUSV6/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1449608909&sr=1-2&keywords=1-1%2F2%22+velcro 2" wide Velcro, 3M Industrial Strength (white), Armor to armor connection (Chest to yoke) - http://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-brand-15-ft-x-2-in-Industrial-Strength-Tape-90198/202261920?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-202261919-_-202261920-_-N 1" Nylon Webbing (black) - Assorted strapping (suspension) connections - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QL2C26?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00 2" Nylon Webbing (black) - Assorted strapping (suspension) connections - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1HK9A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 1-1/2" Elastic (black) Yoke to Shoulder Bell connection - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015OPFF3C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 5/8" (15mm) Elastic (black) - Left to right shoulder gasket connection - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ4O83W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03 5/8" (16mm) Nylon Ribbon (black) - Shoulder gasket connection anchor - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RQQLE60?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00 1/2" Rigilene Boning (black), Mesh suspension (strapping) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBIRQJS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03 2" Buckle (black), Strapping (suspension) Waist belt connection) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MKS00O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 1' Buckle (black), Assorted strapping (suspension) connections - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDBJH9I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01 5/8" (15mm) Buckle (black) - Left to right shoulder gasket gonnection - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X0KMV0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03 #24 Line Snaps, Yoke to Shoulder Bell - Tandy 12mm Double Cap Rivets (gun metal black), Shoulder gasket connection anchor - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X0KMV0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03 12mm Double Cap Rivets (nickle), Suspension Mesh to Ab - http://www.ebay.com/itm/121710367884?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 1" Buckle, swivel / slide release, black, strapping (suspension), chest to back - http://www.ebay.com/itm/151146077829?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=450215821998&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 10x Chicago screws (Standard waist belt assembly) 1/4" 1/8" x 1/4" Pop rivet, Ab to lower suspension mesh boning - 2 spools Heavy duty nylon thread - 1 square yard mesh fabric - armor suspension (strapping) - American plastics - 6" x 6" 1.5mm+ cover strip material - armor suspension (strapping) connection point - ATA or other Accuracy Update Material/Hardware: Rubber Isolation/Vibration Pad - material behind Center Waist Belt Boxes - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IT650T8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 1/4" x 2" Neoprene - center layer of Waist Belt & Shoulder Plate (suspension system) - http://www.ebay.com/itm/170613703683?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Mesh - chest pill holes - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34176-fs-ukswraths-fo-chest-pill-box-fabric-mesh/ Gaffers tape - material behind Pill Holes - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZE3UJ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 1/4 x 20 x 2" nylon bolts - Ab box mounting - 1/4 x 20 nylon nut - Ab box mounting - Chicago screws (belt with 1/4" neoprene section and 1" tall center box rubber mounts) - Center belt boxes 3/4", Right side boxes 1/2", end of belt near buckle 3/8" Pre Paint & Paint: PPG DFL1 Spot Putty - You local auto body supply store 3M Spot putty - https://www.amazon.com/3M-05095-Acryl-White-Putty-Tube/dp/B003P6I5KS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467760849&sr=8-5&keywords=Spot+Putty Poly-Flex flexible polyester glazing putty - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P6US6A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 ANOVOS recommended (rattle can) - RUST-OLEUM 249090 Gloss White - http://www.homedepot...49090/202071066 Primer - Rust-Oleum 249145 Professionally Painted - Paint, Clear and Hardener - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31877-ukswraths-tfa-build-thread-tk-10116/?p=447887 Extras: F-11D - (DIY) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41203-f-11d-resin-kits/. F-11D complete - https://www.etsy.com/listing/245791161/f-11d-blaster-11-scale?ref=shop_home_active_4 Boots & Gloves - Imperial - http://www.imperialboots.com/# Under suit, Gloves & Neckseal - https://www.stormtrooperundersuit.com/star-wars-first-order-stormtrooper-apparel-site.html Gaskets - Imperial gaskets - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31019-imperial-gaskets-more-upgrades/ Gaskets - Jimmi - Chest pill hole fabric - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34176-fs-ukswraths-fo-chest-pill-box-fabric-%20mesh/ Hard Hat Liner - Home depot - http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-White-Hard-Hat-with-Pin-Lock-Adjustment-CHH-P-W12/202195392 Steel Holster kit - Available through The New Order Facebook page -https://www.facebook.com/groups/FirstOrderStormtoopers/ Pauldron - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35470-fotk-vinyl-pauldron/ Cooling - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35994-ukswraths-cooling-fan-kits/ Audio system - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32951-interest-check-ukswraths-tfa-helmet-audio/ SHA system (hearing aid) - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32487-ukswraths-stormtrooper-hearing-assist-system/ PPE Cut resistant gloves http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Cut-Resistant-Large-Gloves-7008-06/205813582 Latex gloves http://www.homedepot.com/p/KLEENGUARD-Disposable-Blue-Nitrile-Gloves-X-Large-90-Count-57374/202798509 Safety Glasses Important SAFETY information, PLEASE READ!! So many chemicals that are used to assembly armor are toxic. Products like adhesives, fillers, paint, sanding byproducts, these are all toxic to your health and may cause cancer or organ damage over long periods of exposure. I can't stress enough how important it is when using these products to do so in a well ventilated area and/or wear a proper respirator. NOTE: When sanding a well ventilated area in NOT good enough, USE A RESPIRATOR suited for the job. TFA CRL - http://www.501st.com/databank/TK_-_First_Order Build Chapters Ab Boxes Ab Boxes: final assembly Belt Belt pt 2 Belt Accuracy (part 1) Belt Assembly Accuracy (part 2) Belt Assembly Accuracy (part 3) Biceps Biceps Accuracy (Part 1) Biceps Accuracy (Part 2) Chest Plate Indent Mod Chest Plate Accuracy Mod Chest Plate Accuracy Mod pt 2 Chest Plate Accuracy gap fill 1 Chest Plate Center and Pill Boxes Chest Plate Accuracy gap fill 2 Chest to Yoke attachment Forearms Forearm cont Gaskets Gaskets: thigh to shin Greeblies (clips) Hand Plates Holster Knee Caps Paint Code Paint prep: gap fill and sanding Paint Prep cont Shins Shin Accuracy Shin Closure Shoulder Bells Shoulder Bell Accuracy Shoulder Bell Accuracy pt 2 Shoulder Bell Accuracy: gmrhodes alt Spats Spats pt 2 Strapping: ab to cod Strapping: ab to posterior Thermal Det Thermal Det decals Thermal Det mounting Thighs Torso Torso: suspension system Torso: suspension system details Torso: suspension system details pt 2 Torso: suspension system details pt 3 Torso: suspension system details part 4 Yoke (shoulder + back) Yoke Re-enforcement 501st submission pictures Special thanks to Chris (Jancelot) for his organizational skillz
  19. From the Phasma FB Group: an old list so prices may have increased The Kits Helmets: Jimmiroquai (Jimmi/Jim): Jim’s helmet is $175 by itself. Requires some modifications to remove the excess eye flashing. Shipping ranges in price since it’s shipping from the Philippines. PM Jim for a shipping quote. Teresa Nuthall, Jessica Bowyer, Molly Lewis, Jen Belgin and Laura Williams have Jim’s helmets. You can find his work on the RPF. http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=252114&highlight=jimmiroquai How to buy: PM on the RPF or Facebook (Shipping may take a while) Construction status: Message Jim Shawn Thorsson: Resin helmet. $225 for the raw cast plus shipping. Will require some mods as well. Ingrid Moon have Shawn’s helmets. Construction status: Active Misty Melillo started out with a Curtis Hoines helmet (Phasma V1) but now she has an Anovos for her V2. Armor: Jimmiroquai (Jimmi/Jim): Jim Tripon is the maker. His armor is made out of flexible fiberglass. It has some weight to it and certain pieces will flex, like the ab and calf armor. His newer kits are extremely accurate and are a fair bit lighter than some of the earlier versions. Jessica Bowyer, Jen Belgin and Molly Lewis have Jim’s armors. Cost is laid out as follows: Full set of armor and helmet: $980usd Armor only: $880 Jim requires a 40% deposit to start casting the kit. Shipping cost ranges. Message Jim for quote. You can find his work on the RPF. http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=252114&highlight=jimmiroquai (Shipping may take a while. Message Jim for construction time) Phasma extras: Yes. Message Jim for info about what this involves. Construction status: Message Jim Shawn Thorsson armor: Shawn’s armor is made of fiberglass with some of the smaller bits made out of urethane resin. A complete kit costs $1965 and gets you all of the hard parts, helmet included. Shawn says the armor is best suited for those of a medium build. 5’8” and up. Misty Melillo has Shawn’s armor. Shipping varies, depending on buyers location. Shawn is located in Northern California. PM him for quotes. Construction time is 2-3 weeks depending on backlog. His process can be seen here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/8050182@N06/sets/72157659464323179 How to buy: PM on the RPF or Facebook Phasma extras: Yes. Message Shawn for info about what this involves Construction status: Active 850 Armor Works: 850 makes a basic plastic FOTK kit. Like KB, it fits a wide range of body styles with some trimming. Cost: Base kit is $600. Phasma upgrades is $150. How to buy: PM on Facebook. Construction status: Active (Helmet is not approvable.) ****All kits come with greeblies, finger armor, holsters and foot armor. Toe plates may need to be made by builder. See page for tutorials.**** KB also makes FOTK armor and Phasma kits, should be listed with Geeky Pinks thread Soft Parts (Gaskets/Neck Seal/Belt/Boots/Cape/Belt Pouches) Gaskets and Neck Seal: Geeky Pink’s Phantastic Gaskets: Our very own Teresa Nuthall stepped in to make gaskets for our group. Her gaskets are extremely well made and made with much love. Most will require some modifications to get them to fit to your body but she provides clear instructions. Teresa has a neck seal as well that runs about $45. She will take commissions for anything you might need. She’s done gaskets for Death Troopers and Shore Troopers. If there’s anything you want, PM her and she will do what she can to help. Minimal wait time for costruction. Cost: Contact Teresa Construction status: Active Neck seal: Amazon: $12-30 eBay: $15 Trooper Bay: $55 Darman’s Neck Seals: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/ Cost: TK with velcro: $30+shipping TK with zipper: $38+shipping Gaskets: Imperial Gaskets: They make two kinds, a rubber latex version and a fabric version. Fabric version: $150. Has the shiny look that the rubber gaskets do but is latex free. Compression shirt neck seal: $75 Rubber version $300. Movie accurate. Will require some assembly and modification on your part. Contact: ImperialGaskets@gmail.com Construction status: Extreme Waitlist FN Armour: FN Armour gaskets are pretty common but a word of caution, the FN company has had issues with recasting in the past and has been placed on various DNB lists throughout the FISD. Their gaskets aren’t very popular with many of the Phasma’s. Consider going to another maker. Construction status: Caution Jim Tripon gaskets/pouches: Jim makes gaskets for his FO armors. They’re cloth and pretty sturdy. Cost: $120+shipping Pouches: $20+shipping (Both of these can be included with the armor. Jim recommends Imperial Gaskets, for more screen accuracy.) Sister Margaret’s Gasket Emporium: Sister Margaret’s works in Waves. Which means orders will be taken until slots are full and then construction will begin. This is a group of 1-1.5 so construction runs in a limited manner and as such may take some time. According to Sister Margaret’s maker, this would make a great alternative gasket maker. Orders may take 2-4 months to complete. Cost: Monies only due at time of sale once items are shipped. Currently sets with internal ribbing is set at 255 before shipping. Without internal ribbing and instead double foam (ribs will collapse a bit but not as much) 180. Message for pictures of different styles. Larger sizes would start at that price but wouldn't move much. Shipping is through Fedex Contact: PM on Facebook Cape: Jessica Bowyer is one of our own. She makes a gorgeous cape that is screen accurate and comes in two versions. There’s the rubberized version and the canvas version, both of which can be 501st approved. Cost: Contact Jessica Construction status: Active Joanne Marriott: Joanne takes costume commissions and she does a little bit of everything. Her cape is gorgeous so if you’re interested in getting a cape made, give her a PM. Cost: Contact Joanne Construction status: Active ***Cape hint and tip*** The cape is kind of tricky, especially since many people don’t make them to sell. A lot of people make them themselves or go to a local seamstress. This might be good because it can be custom made to your measurements. There just aren’t a lot of trusted sellers out there so if you see a person selling her cape, post in the forum and the veterans may be able to give you some advice. There may be some cape patterns floating around as well, that individual makers may be willing to share with the party. Belt: Jessica Bowyer also makes a belt that can be used to attach the boxes and pouches too. It’s a ribbed rubber and attaches with velcro. Very simple to use and works great (no clips!) Cost: Contact Jessica Construction status: Active Darren Vaughan (Belts of the First Order): Darren’s belts are pretty common with the FO’s. There are three layers to the belt: the outer is ribbed rubber, the inner is sponge rubber and the inner is webbing. Buckled together and there are chicago screws included for the boxes. It all comes together to form a fitted and comfy belt. Cost: AU$70 shipped Contact: PM on Facebook or email: beltsofthefirstorder@gmail.com Construction status: Active ***Belt hint and tip*** Many people have made their belt themselves, using ribbed rubber they find at their hardware stores. That way, if you can’t get one from any of the listed makers, there are still options. Also, self-drilling screws are a great way to mount the boxes to the rubber. Then you don’t have to fiddle with gluing chicago screws and the like. Belt pouches: Phasma has two belt pouches located on her left hip. They are canvas in construction. The longest one is about the size of a Samsung cellphone and is faced with chrome. The second box is relatively squat. This one does not have to be faced with chrome. Trooperbay is kind of the only place I’ve found the belts ready-to-ship, already-constructed. If there are any independent makers, please let me know! I have these pouches and I don’t mind them at all. They’re big enough to hold my phone and Aker and some snacks, which is always a plus in my book. Where to buy: https://trooperbay.com/star-wars-stormtrooper-tfa-first-order-stormtrooper-black-canvas-ammo-pouch-set Cost: $60 Belt and pouches: KB and Shawn both make their own belts and pouches and are included with the armors. Justin Lee Morrison’s Extras (holster/greeblies/belt): Justin’s holsters and clips are very clean and well made. Fit great with the armors and he now has a way to attach blasters to the thighs, which is always handy. Justin’s easy to work with and will combine orders when needed. Turn around time is extremely quick, especially considering he’s in Ireland and shipping can be funky. Holsters (v3, now stainless steel top) with rifle bolts. Assembled £50 Aerators (aluminium) £20 (Not necessary for Phasma’s but good for FOTK’s) Clip set (6 large, 8 small) £20 Belt £25 All of the above in a set £100 plus shipping (and Justin will also add extra clips) Contact: PM on Facebook Construction status: Active Boots: Okay boots are tricky. There’s no real specific design needed (unlike the TK’s and FO’s). As long as they’re black leather or leather-like and have no pronounced heel. Because Phasma is so tall, many Legionnaires have gone with lifted boots. These can be found on Amazon or ---------------- For now I’ll just list the first pair of boots I got, so you can see a common style and maybe go from there. Jodhpur style boots (common TK style) Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUHT46M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cost: Around $60 Boots don’t have to be too specific. Some have even gotten boots with lacing. The armor will cover it and the foot armor will hide a majority of the boot. It just kind of depends on comfort for you and how tall you want to be. My second pair of boots is a lifted pair of boots that I found on clearance on tallmenshoes. They give me an additional 4 inches in height with room for another inch lift insert. I’m not sure how stable they’ll be but my hope is that they’ll be comfortable enough for my armor. If anyone has boot suggestions, send them my way. I’ll add them to the list. The bits and bobs So if you’re like me and live in a small town in the middle of nowhere, this costume can be kind of tricky to put together. I got a lot of stuff on Amazon and eBay because it was cheaper than driving to a city an hour or more away and run the risk of the stores there not having what I needed. I’m just going to list some of the things I’ve had questions on over the past year and go from there! You know the drill-if you think of anything you want me to add, let me know! Or if you have any questions, ask and I’ll try to find the answers and get them here. Sound system: ------------------- I think most people go with Akers but I found this little guy for relatively cheap and it works well. I just keep it in my smaller belt pouch and it fits perfectly. Wireless mic:---------------------- I love this wireless mic. It works great and it’s one less thing I have to have on my head! Syncs up great and works perfectly with my sound system. Hearing system: Enviro Kit is a great little trick. My handlers call it the Diva Hearing Aids. Jessica Bowyer brought this to the group. What it is is a set of tiny mics that you place in your bucket and it’s connected to an audio feed that you can connect headphones too. It’s a great system and if you’re like me who is already HoH it’s a good trick to have in a visually impaired bucket. Cost: $80 +$17 shipping anywhere in US or Canada. Shawn Preston is the builder and he has everything on hand to make it. If you want to wear it with headphones he’ll give you a discounted price. How to contact: Reach out to Jessica Bowyer. She’ll get you set up. Helmet lens: I am currently using the lens that came with my Jimmi bucket. It works pretty well but it’s getting scratched up so I will eventually have to replace it. Jessica told me to get a welding mask shield. Seems like a great thing to have on hand. --------------- Extra fingers: My fingers broke the first time I wore Phasma so I needed a Plan B. I got mine from Jim Sleeth. They’re resin cast, extremely sturdy and very easy to modify. Cost: $30 plus shipping. Contact: starbuck@gate.net KB Props and Shawn make replacement fingers as well. Contact for cost and shipping estimates. Fans: Fans are pretty essential for this costume. And pretty much any helmeted costume. If you’re interested in an already assembled setup, check out Troopercoola. They make custom fan setups and have a lot of different options. Cost: Varies Contact: Troopercoola Undersuits: This is all personal preference. I did the one piece bodysuit for a while and hated it. It made going to bathroom difficult, it wasn’t comfortable and after 6 troops I couldn’t do it anymore. I’m currently wearing an underarmor compression type shirt and some high waisted yoga pants that are extremely comfy and make emergency bathroom stops easy. If you’re going for movie accuracy though, then Stormtrooper Undersuit might be for you. This is the suit that was used in the movie and it’s a thick spandex with the glossed upper thigh. It has a crotch zipper as well, which might be handy for the guys. Maybe not so much for the ladies. Cost: £49.99 Where to buy: https://www.stormtrooperundersuit.com/star-wars-first-order-stormtrooper-costume-armour-compatible-bodysuit-undersuit.html Blaster: A blaster is not required to be approved of course, but it really is cool to have when you’re in the armor. I believe most people have the Heston blaster. There’s a lot of options for this blaster and price varies depending. You will have to chrome it yourself and if you want to be extra fancy, you’ll have to tint the chrome gold. Where to buy:-------------- Cost: $175+ If you have the ability and a 3d printer, there are free stl files on whitearmor for the F-11. Will require some work on your part but could be fun! http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32544- (you’ll have to be a member of the forum to open the link) There’s a lot of other makers on etsy but I am not sure about their quality or their ship times. So proceed with caution and make sure to do your research. Spear: (TLJ) JJ Industries is currently knocking out some great spears for current and future Phasmas. Luke offers a raw kit and a polished and finished kit as well. Current pricing breakdown: Price: - £90 Raw Kit - £120 Mirror Polished Extras: - £20 Padded Case & Polishing cloth Shipping: - £25 UK - Parcelforce Express - £30 Europe - DPD Express Classic - £40 USA - DPD Air Classic pictures can be seen here: https://imgur.com/a/rm9P0do Visit his page for more info. https://www.facebook.com/JJIndustriesUK/ Did you get your kit from another maker not listed here? Be sure to let me know so that the rest of the group can find them! List is subject to change.
  20. So last month I made a build thread in TLJ FOTK section about getting started on a TLJ FOTK. But I guess it was my bad to think I would get TLJ armor with my TLJ helmet. KB Props armor is TFA by default even if you get a TLJ helm, so that brings about a bit of issues when its time to go for EIB and Centurion. [IE: Cods are different, forearms are different, thermal detonator is different, and probably more I dont know about] Speaking of EIB, theres this #1000 EIB thing going on in the FISD announcements that I think I want to be a part of. So I've decided instead of TLJ to go full TFA to see if I can reach this milestone before the window closes. I'm pretty new to all this but from the previous thread I've already been through the whole BBB moment and got the ball rolling with trimming stuff. I've been scratched by abs, glued my fingers together, and got pinched by neodymium magnets. I've even been burned by CA glue already and almost lit a paper towel on fire! All the great noob stuff ya'll missed! Plan is to look something like this guy by the end of everything. Not gonna have the heavy F11-D at the moment, and I may or may not have the pauldron when I go for EIB cause the window is closing pretty fast, and theres a lot to do! Also 2 rifles? Overkill maybe? Should have an SE-44C holstered I feel like. Guy is packing some serious heat and doesnt even have the ammo vest! Anyways, I'm gonna do like my other thread and list off equipment I have thus far. I'll be editing this to reflect updates on what I have and what I need to get. Parts List: -Hard Bits- TFA Helmet: Anovos (Received) Armor: KB Props (Received) Pauldron: KB Props (Received) Holster: R2Dan (Inquired) Yoke Reinforcement: Ukswrath (Received) -Soft Bits- Belt: JAFO Belts of the First Order (Need to get a bit further in fitment before I commit to a size) Pouches: TrooperBay (Received) Gloves: Endor Finders (Received) Boots: Imperial Boots (Received) Undersuit: StormtrooperUndersuit (Received) Balaclava: UnderArmor HeatGear Tactical Balaclava (Received) Rubber Gaskets: Imperial Gaskets Cloth Gaskets: Sheev's Emporium (Received) Neck Seal: Sheev's Emporium (Received) Harness: Geeky Pink -Electronics- Helmet Cooling: Ukswrath Comm System: Ukswrath Chatter Loop: Ukswrath -Weapons- Z6 Riot Baton aka "Whappity Stick": Force FX Black Series Z6 Riot Baton Hasbro (Acquired) SE-44C Pistol: Arsenal Studio (Received) F11-D Blaster: Arsenal Studio (Ordered) Heavy F11-D Blaster: Branfuhr Studios -Armor Storage- Chest: Husky 37in Rolling Tool Box Utility Cart (Acquired) As I've said in the other thread, this my first stormtrooper and this be exciting times! I hope I can pull this off in time to make it to that special EIB, if not. Oh well, it'll be fun anyway!
  21. Now that Mimic is planning to ship out our armor in two batches, I thought its time for me to post up my build thread. Mimic states that he's going to ship the kits in 2 batches, the first to dispatch is the back, butt, abs, chest, yoke and cod. The limbs and helmet will come later on. So far, this is where I am with my needed gear: Gaskets - Geeky Pink Gaskets -got them Gloves - Imperial Boots -got them Boots - Imperial Boots -got them Neck Seal - using my current ANH TK neck seal Belt - Jafo - got it Cloth Pouches - trooperbay - got them Undersuit - StormtrooperUndersuit.com -got it Blaster Rifle 3D printed kit of the F11D about 75% sanded Pistol3D printed SE44c hasn't been started aside from printing it - waiting in a box for me to sand it Helmet - Anovos TLJ Helmet Electronics - Ukswrath's amp/speakers, home made USB fan rig -I've got them, but haven't installed them yet Armor - Backstate Props (FOTK preorder) Harness - condor tactical vest Am I missing anything? After getting the undersuit and trying it on, I'm pumped to get this armor completed. The undersuit is already more comfortable than what I wear with my current TK. With 4 other people here in Vermont on this Mimic order, we're going to look amazing. **EDIT** after pulling the plug on Mimic's run, I've now ordered a TFA kit from KB Props. I opted for TFA vs TLJ primarily because I already have the helmet. There are now 3 of us in VT instead of 5 building together. KB told us 4-5 weeks. The hype has returned. **EDIT (again)** KB Props has declared that he's closing and has advised all unfullfilled orders to seek refunds from Paypal. **EDIT (good things come in threes)** My Vermont group is now on the BSP FOTK preorder. They claim to be pulling all the preorders in June but only time will tell. If this vendor doesn't come through, I'm switching my project time/energy to a wookie. **EDIT (last one for I hope)** I sold my Anovos TFA helmet and have switched my plan to TLJ after acquiring the Anovos TLJ
  22. I don’t know why it made me create an account but this is my actual account the other needs to not be used and I wont use it again so write me here Hi everyone. Due to the nature of the NDA’s I of course was not allowed to take any pictures. But what I can tell you is this is pretty darn spot on what you guys have stayed here. I have extensive photos of my rogue one armor that I can’t post for a king time because it will affect my work. The rise of skywalker FOTK that I wore I only wore it once for a fitting because we were going to use them for Previz. But I never wore it again. They just gave us the helmets hahaha so I have a few photos of that. So here are my inputs. Helmet details are spot on. neck seal, there were two types. 11 rib and 8 rib neck seals. Zipper is worn front or back. There were two reasons why they were worn in the front, 1 because some pointed their heads down to see and therefore zipper was visible in rhe back. 2 the zipper was worn in the back and since they clothing tag it down to the under suit s lot of guys would take it off when undressing first break or lunch, and then put it on zipping it in the front. So either is acceptable. I cousins remember how they attached the chest to the back and yoke but sides were Velcro. shoulder bells bad the tab and it was metal but I don’t think they is necessary and I’ll explain it later. Tab can be any material. Since our kits are abs I highly recommend abs tabs. That’s what I’ve done Shoulder bells attached to bicep via a clip and forearms slid up. Picatinny rail moved box aside and you zipped up the forearms and box was velcroed down . gaskets were rubber silicon and for me I thought they were soft. They were trimmed in a fabric that protected them on the edges and an elastic back with a buckle in the front. Elbows and forearms were attached but we can separate them but they were attached via the elbow gasket Same with the legs. Thighs and shins were attached as well via gasket and spats were attached to shins but I didn’t see how. torso had a cross cross strap system that had a thin pad on it and torso zipper up the back. The thermal detonator and butt plate were attached by a webbing and came down the back and the belt pinned it down and buckled inside the pouch. the blasters I saw had many variations. Some didn’t have d rings. Some did and the rings were either black or white. I thought I saw one silver one but not sure. D ring plates were both silver and white. But there were quite a few black d rings. I think if we go white and white or silver and white ring or silver and black ring it’s good. Pistol I did not see gloves I could swear were the exact endor finders gloves and rhe hand plates had a deep groove in it. unfirtunately I didn’t have enough time to take other notes such as the boxes with black being cut out or not. It was my first day and just insane to be able to do this and I had planned on my second run to take more detailed notes and photos. However the pills on the chest I did see that they were cut out, but the box in the center of the chest, the black was painted in. And if I remember correctly the box on the wrist was painted or decal. Not one hundred percent sure. now on the overlaps, the thighs and biceps are overlaps. They are held in place by rubber bands. And they literally pry them open for you to get in. This can not be done in abs, our armor will crack. So this brings me to my next point. I hit the ground over 60 times in one day and nothing happened to my armor. It’s very thick polyurethane armor and very strong. So back to the shoulder bridge that’s why I don’t recommend metal. I contemplated leaving my biceps and thighs open and attaching a rubber material but I decided against it as the armor will crack when trooping and grow apart. The clips on the body armor were TFA clips rhat I saw while helmet clips are TLJ. Very weird. undersuit was a one piece and had shiny built in. But I heard there’s other sets with shiny shorts but couldn’t confirm it. Boots are exact imperial boots first order boots and they may get it from the same maker. I have my actual boots, neck seal, gloves and undersuit that I wore for the rogue one and clone trooper on kenobi. The gloves for the rogue one and clone are again exact gloves from Endor finders like the first order gloves and the boots for the first order snd rogue one and clones are the exact same boots. the thermal detonator is a separate piece screwed in to the back plate just like the clone and rogue one. The TD is hollow and it has a black pvc like tube that slides in. You can take it out but I don’t remember what kept it in. I’ve made my TD hollowed out and with the pvc tube and it is much lighter. Also on rhe other side of rhe tube I painted to match TFA: cod pieces are polyurethane so they flex but there are also rubber vids as well and shoulder bells and chest pieces for stunts. That’s why the cod is flexing in pics. holsters were actual functioning metal ones, the ones I saw. mall the armor parts are polyurethane and very thick and durable. the thighs are attached by two straps to the torso just like the rogue one armor except the rogue one armor had ribbing material to cover them. I didn’t notice that it n this armor. the torso had leather scallops and a front flat leather plate that held the belt and the cod piece. I noticed different shaped cod pieces by the way. and the notes on the cut pieces, yes w lot of times they are cut to fit the performer. We modified armor parts all day long and that’s why you see the different shapes and cute. Oh one more thing there were also foam thermal detonators and you could barely tell they were foam. They looked just like the regular ones. Same thing with the rogue one armor. They are for stunts. I didn’t see executioner axes or batans or prods . it’s pretty much the TLJ armor and if yuu want to enforce the different cut in forearms then you can. I have my rubber gaskets but they were only the actual rubber pieces and none of the finishing. It was quite nice what they had. I just got the rubber parts themselves. The TFA I know snapped in to place even on the torso. I couldn’t tell how because it was already assembled so I’m assuming Velcro. anyway those are my four notes. My armor is almost done. I’ve made some changes to it to function the way I prefer like using smaller shoulder to bicep buckles as well as the double buckles for the thighs attach to a belt and not the toro so. With abs I just think it’s too much torque on the armor and on a belt you get a lot more freedom. The torso attach puts too much tension and weight on abs but also shoulders. That’s it for now.
  23. Hi everyone. Due to the nature of the NDA’s I of course was not allowed to take any pictures. But what I can tell you is this is pretty darn spot on what you guys have stayed here. I have extensive photos of my rogue one armor that I can’t post for a king time because it will affect my work. The rise of skywalker FOTK that I wore I only wore it once for a fitting because we were going to use them for Previz. But I never wore it again. They just gave us the helmets hahaha so I have a few photos of that. So here are my inputs. Helmet details are spot on. neck seal, there were two types. 11 rib and 8 rib neck seals. Zipper is worn front or back. There were two reasons why they were worn in the front, 1 because some pointed their heads down to see and therefore zipper was visible in rhe back. 2 the zipper was worn in the back and since they clothing tag it down to the under suit s lot of guys would take it off when undressing first break or lunch, and then put it on zipping it in the front. So either is acceptable. I cousins remember how they attached the chest to the back and yoke but sides were Velcro. shoulder bells bad the tab and it was metal but I don’t think they is necessary and I’ll explain it later. Tab can be any material. Since our kits are abs I highly recommend abs tabs. That’s what I’ve done Shoulder bells attached to bicep via a clip and forearms slid up. Picatinny rail moved box aside and you zipped up the forearms and box was velcroed down . gaskets were rubber silicon and for me I thought they were soft. They were trimmed in a fabric that protected them on the edges and an elastic back with a buckle in the front. Elbows and forearms were attached but we can separate them but they were attached via the elbow gasket Same with the legs. Thighs and shins were attached as well via gasket and spats were attached to shins but I didn’t see how. torso had a cross cross strap system that had a thin pad on it and torso zipper up the back. The thermal detonator and butt plate were attached by a webbing and came down the back and the belt pinned it down and buckled inside the pouch. the blasters I saw had many variations. Some didn’t have d rings. Some did and the rings were either black or white. I thought I saw one silver one but not sure. D ring plates were both silver and white. But there were quite a few black d rings. I think if we go white and white or silver and white ring or silver and black ring it’s good. Pistol I did not see gloves I could swear were the exact endor finders gloves and rhe hand plates had a deep groove in it. unfirtunately I didn’t have enough time to take other notes such as the boxes with black being cut out or not. It was my first day and just insane to be able to do this and I had planned on my second run to take more detailed notes and photos. However the pills on the chest I did see that they were cut out, but the box in the center of the chest, the black was painted in. And if I remember correctly the box on the wrist was painted or decal. Not one hundred percent sure. now on the overlaps, the thighs and biceps are overlaps. They are held in place by rubber bands. And they literally pry them open for you to get in. This can not be done in abs, our armor will crack. So this brings me to my next point. I hit the ground over 60 times in one day and nothing happened to my armor. It’s very thick polyurethane armor and very strong. So back to the shoulder bridge that’s why I don’t recommend metal. I contemplated leaving my biceps and thighs open and attaching a rubber material but I decided against it as the armor will crack when trooping and grow apart. The clips on the body armor were TFA clips rhat I saw while helmet clips are TLJ. Very weird. undersuit was a one piece and had shiny built in. But I heard there’s other sets with shiny shorts but couldn’t confirm it. Boots are exact imperial boots first order boots and they may get it from the same maker. I have my actual boots, neck seal, gloves and undersuit that I wore for the rogue one and clone trooper on kenobi. The gloves for the rogue one and clone are again exact gloves from Endor finders like the first order gloves and the boots for the first order snd rogue one and clones are the exact same boots. the thermal detonator is a separate piece screwed in to the back plate just like the clone and rogue one. The TD is hollow and it has a black pvc like tube that slides in. You can take it out but I don’t remember what kept it in. I’ve made my TD hollowed out and with the pvc tube and it is much lighter. Also on rhe other side of rhe tube I painted to match TFA: cod pieces are polyurethane so they flex but there are also rubber vids as well and shoulder bells and chest pieces for stunts. That’s why the cod is flexing in pics. holsters were actual functioning metal ones, the ones I saw. mall the armor parts are polyurethane and very thick and durable. the thighs are attached by two straps to the torso just like the rogue one armor except the rogue one armor had ribbing material to cover them. I didn’t notice that it n this armor. the torso had leather scallops and a front flat leather plate that held the belt and the cod piece. I noticed different shaped cod pieces by the way. and the notes on the cut pieces, yes w lot of times they are cut to fit the performer. We modified armor parts all day long and that’s why you see the different shapes and cute. Oh one more thing there were also foam thermal detonators and you could barely tell they were foam. They looked just like the regular ones. Same thing with the rogue one armor. They are for stunts. I didn’t see executioner axes or batans or prods . it’s pretty much the TLJ armor and if yuu want to enforce the different cut in forearms then you can. I have my rubber gaskets but they were only the actual rubber pieces and none of the finishing. It was quite nice what they had. I just got the rubber parts themselves. The TFA I know snapped in to place even on the torso. I couldn’t tell how because it was already assembled so I’m assuming Velcro. anyway those are my four notes. My armor is almost done. I’ve made some changes to it to function the way I prefer like using smaller shoulder to bicep buckles as well as the double buckles for the thighs attach to a belt and not the toro so. With abs I just think it’s too much torque on the armor and on a belt you get a lot more freedom. The torso attach puts too much tension and weight on abs but also shoulders. That’s it for now.
  24. This list is for Original Trilogy (OT) builds. ANH, ESB and ROTJ) For those who are about to embark on a TK build, in addition to the kit itself and the supplies you will need** to do that we are often asked about other items to complete the ensemble and get approved. These are known as "soft parts", and include the holster, under suit, boots, gloves, neck seal and canvas belt. Be aware that some armorers may include one or more of these items with their kit, but some do not. Also be aware that just because the seller includes them it does not always mean that they are the correct type/style and are eligible for approval (especially at higher levels). When in doubt, always ask your armorer which items are part of the package or feel free to ask here if you have doubts/questions. We are here to help! If there is a particular soft part you need, below is a list of "tried and true" vendors who have an excellent reputation, as well as suggestions for where to get other pieces or even make your own! NOTE: If you are a vendor and would like to add your sales thread here or you have a tutorial on how to make your own please PM me before posting here. **https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/page/11/ White Canvas Belt: NOTE: not all belts are created equal! The belts used in the films were firm and sturdy with no creasing or sagging. Vendor- Rob Kittel https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/ Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/stormtrooper-sandtrooper-white-canvas-belt Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/665-howto-a-guide-to-making-a-canvas-bel Neck Seal: Vendor: Darman https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/ Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/ Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/headgear-neck-seals/stormtrooper-neck-seal Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34548-10-diy-neck-seal-v1/ Holster: NOTE: Holster straps differ for various costumes. Please see the CRL for your particular style here: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Vendor- Darman https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16744-leather-e-11-holsters-35/ Trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/ammo-pouches/stormtrooper-genuine-leather-blaster-holster Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23643-making-a-holster-for-anh-stunt/ Boots: Vendor: Imperial Boots https://www.imperialboots.com/product/421/ NOTE: Imperial boots are 100% approvable at every level, but they only open once a month for orders. They can run a bit small, so I suggest ordering a half size larger than what you normally wear. Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27565-how-i-did-my-boots-tkboots-alternative/ Under Suit: Under suits can be purchased from many sources, and you have the choice of one or two piece types. I have found Amazon to be among the least expensive sources. The easiest thing to do is visit that site and search for it, for instance "Mens compression suit top black long sleeve". Examples: Mens compression suit top black long sleeve- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mens+compression+suit+top+black+long+sleeve&ref=nb_sb_noss Mens compression suit pants black- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mens+compression+suit+pants+black&ref=nb_sb_noss Vendor Trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/star-wars-stormtrooper-sandtrooper-black-undersuit NOTE: While some prefer the one-piece type, the two piece tends to be better when you have to... uhhh, let's just say "answer nature's call". IMPORTANT! When ordering an under suit, be aware that many have printed logos, white stitching etc. These can not be visible while wearing your armor. Hand guards (Flexible) Vendor: justjoseph63 - https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35702-fs-flexible-hand-guards-for-centurion-level/ Vendor: Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/flexible-hand-guards-in-white-black-or-plain Gloves: NOTE: As per the CRL for Basic 501st OT TK approval, gloves must be all black with no visible straps/logos/designs and can be rubber, Nomex, leather or a leather-like material. For Level 2 (Expert Infantry) and Level 3 (Centurion) they must be made of rubber or a rubber-like material. I highly suggest finding ones with a long wrist, which prevents it from sliding out from underneath your forearm armor. Vendor: Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/accurate-trooper-black-latex-gloves Vendor: justjoseph63- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49156-fs-rubber-gloves-for-expert-infantrycenturion-level/ eBay is also an alternative. Just search Black Nomex (or leather, rubber etc.) gloves. Be sure when ordering the rubber type from eBay that you are purchasing the heavier duty type and not the disposable kind. Thigh Garter system: Vendor: Pencap510 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29991-thigh-garter-system/ NOTE: These are not a requirement, but they are AWESOME! Pauldrons- (For Heavy Weapons Troopers) Vendor: Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/
  25. I have been in the process of updating molds to a more screen accurate shoulder gasket. I am also creating a full polyurethane mother mold so I do not have to build mold boxes and bases any more. This will speed up my mold production time when they wear out or get broke. Molds are like working with fine china in a bull pen. FOTK belt kits are in stock and ready to ship with no wait time. Pauldrons are on hold until new gasket molds are complete and up and running. White pauldrons are on hold until I solve the problem that I'm having with the color. Cloth gaskets are still in production by Mrs. tk4205. She answers all of your emails, handles invoicing, printing, labeling shipping and book keeping. She also does all of the material scouting, sourcing and ordering too. I don't know how she finds the time to sew for us. She cares about us troopers, so It makes her sad when members rant and rave and drop F-bombs on her because they are tired of waiting. Our order list is "first come, first served" and I don't care who you are. Unless of course, you're the president;) If you are on our list and get an invoice, please don't ignore it; we have lots of people waiting and I wont take it personal if you no longer wish to buy. Just don't hold up the line. Imperial Gaskets (rubber) are the premium gaskets for accuracy, durability and comfort. You can reach Centurion level in only two brands of gaskets, but only one you can actually move in . Email ImperialGaskets@gmail.com to reserve your spot today. Cheers to all and thank you for your business.
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