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naatsirhc

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by naatsirhc

  1. Here is my set up. Hollow cast hovis w/ speakers in them, have a plug w/ machined screw and additional hole to run wires.Packed cotton behind speakers. Additional hole needs to be drilled in bucket to feed wires thru. My amp is in the back. Battery boxes for fan and audio fit above hovis. Fan draws air from frown and mic sits below frown. All wiring runs around inner tube of bucket inside of cord tubing. I have a rocker switch on both sides to turn on both or one or the other. The amp helps balance the bucket. It is really not that complicated, but as Daetrin said can be tricky installing due to work space. It also makes it hard to take pictures of set-up

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  2. The white e-6000 is thicker, not as runny. You really only need to leave clamps on for an hour or two, but you do not want to add any stress for at least 12 hours. I have added snaps using the white e-6000, and then trooped without issue in a 12 hour window. 24 hour cure time is best and safest way to go.

  3. Was the build for Alex?

    No, this was for one of my squad members Tim. He has had a full kit sitting in the box for awhile. I convinced him that he should wear it, told him I could do a nice build. His TK is FX, this will be his first accurate armor. I'll have to help him with the armor build next, I think he has it trimmed out. The conversion is a slow process for some.

  4. Thanks Terrell. I guess I was way off, must not of been thinking clearly. I guess I am getting thrown off by photo distortion. I would love to know the different specs.

    So the AP is actually smaller? I always thought it was the other way around.

    I am going to compare my lid with an RS this weekend and take measurements. 

    Here is a side by side of 2 ATA's, thought I shot from the same distance as the other photo

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    So photo distortion is why this AP looks bigger?

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    What is the % for the GF seen below? It is larger than the FX

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    Can you dig that info up when you get the chance, I want to make sure I properly inform people

    Thanks for setting me straight!

  5. Paul,

    It may not be 20%, but it is significantly smaller and I was guesstimating from doing different bucket builds. We really need a detailed comparison to the RS. I did a build not too long ago, of a more accurately sized bucket. I am not positive of the origin, I believe it was cast from TE. The face is soft due to the buck being rubber. Here are some shots next to an ABS ATA lid. The side shot is with my ATA(which still has the neck seal in place and thinner brow trim). When I finished assembly, I could almost pull it on and off like they did in ANH. Here are some shots I took, wish I had taken measurements

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  6. The ATA is approx 20% smaller due to improper handling and damage over time. You should always keep a clean master copy when producing things to avoid degredation. I believe the AP bucket is only 2-5% smaller. Please correct me if I am mistaken. The opening will vary with construction.

  7. If you do heavy trooping, the screen accurate style can fail. Everyone I know who heavily troops and has the bracket system has cracks. I have done more than 70 troops to date and have been thankful more than once for my decision to add inner support and separate chest and back pieces. I have participated in several film shoots that were physically demanding and rough on my armor. I most recently did a web commercial were the extras got a bit carried away and if it had not been for my inner supports my forearm would have completely failed. I use the suspender method to hold up cod and kidney/butt, I have been grabbed and tugged to the point were if I had the original strapping my armor would have failed. I believe that if you only suit up for an hour or two once a month or less there is no issue, but if you go to a lot of conventions and are suited 4-8 or more hours and do a lot of posing it is a different story. I have nothing against the original strapping, but we can see what a few days of shooting did to them. In the end, it comes down to preference and practicality. My 2 credits

  8. Masking and then applying white paint that matches or is close to bucket color will prevent black from bleeding thru and provide a cleaner look( if desired ). It comes down to what you are comfortable doing. I personally draw the shape I want lightly with pencil and then paint to the line.

  9. For the sake of clarification my comment was in regards to the comments by other members, not the DO. The DO has an important job and follows a guideline. It is when other people chime in with additional "do this" or "tweak that", or "you need a real sterling" that I feel is unnecessary. It is important to get feedback and help if something is missing or in non-compliance w/ the CRL, but beyond that I disagree. My apologies to those offended by my comment.

  10. I used a epoxy on my first build. I have switched to shoe goo and white e6000 since. The beauty of the shoe goo is that it pretty much set in an hour and is both hard and flexible, great for fast builds. White e6000 tends to be a bit thicker than the clear and tends to set up faster, I use this to attach the elastics in the calves. I always build from the inside and then add the cover strips, have been doing a combo of shoe goo on the inside joiner strip and the white e6000 for the cover strips. Due to the elastic nature of these products they do not sand evenly, but can be sanded. There are threads about the disassembly, but extreme cold seems to work well(like the freezer). Hope this helps

  11. Wow! Super impressed by you guys. Congrats on the big weight losses and lifestyle changes. I am happy to report that I have maintained my goal weight of 185 and am trying to get to 175-180. I have lowered my waist size to 33. Great job Troops :smiley-sw013:  :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley: 

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