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Navajo Bro

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by Navajo Bro

  1. Now for the biceps.  

     

    1)  Using the same methods, I tape them up first and try them on.  Like the forearms the biceps will be tapered slightly.  Also like the forearms I try to keep them consistent and about the same size.

     

    100_9975_zpst2dhkkn0.jpg

     

    100_9974_zpsc1rnyutq.jpg

     

    2)  Using the same method to line up the seam, you find the middle, clamp the ruler and make the line.  Then trim the TOP one.

     

    100_9977_zpsnxlso0um.jpg

     

    3)  Using the same method mark the other part and trim that off.  Like the forearms this part will have a lot more then the top.

     

    100_9978_zpsjcmthogy.jpg

     

    4)  After cutting them tape them back up and they should be even, with a centered, straight, vertical seam.  They should also be about the same size.

     

    100_9979_zpsblbnfpwg.jpg

     

    100_9980_zpsxpb4fpvr.jpg

     

    Now you need to glue them together.  Some people use just the cover strip but I don't recommend that.  I like to glue a shim on the inside first, this way it's held together more secure, and the cover strip is really there for extra support and aesthetic purposes.

     

    1)  Before you glue you should hit all the edges with a sanding bit on a dremel.  Just to clean it all up.  After you secure them with the shim you can hit them again for final touch ups.

     

    2)  Remember all the stuff you cut off?  Keep it.  You can use the larger scraps for the inside shims.

     

    100_9981_zpsvhue4mfm.jpg

     

    3)  Make the shim about the length of the part, this way it really holds.  But also make sure to trim the top and bottom of the scrap, as you might have cut it off a part that had a return edge and you want the shim to be flush.

     

    100_9982_zps77nctc2j.jpg

     

    4)  I marked the length of the shim with pencil, then put the glue on the inside and the shim over it.  Just a little easier and cleaner that way.

     

    100_9984_zps159b4zxo.jpg

     

    5)  Once the shim is on I use as many clamps as I can fit to maximize the stick, lol.  

     

    100_9983_zpsu3hxecjm.jpg

     

    * When we did Steve and Justin's we would glue shims on both sides at the same time.  This was because they were traveling far to work on it so we wanted to get as much done as we could in the time we had.  Since this is mine, I'm doing one at a time because I can just do other stuff around the house or on the kit while it's drying then switch to the second at my leisure smile.png

     

    Time check:

    Biceps and forearms.  Cutting off the return edges, lining them up, cutting them to seam, sanding them with a dremel and attaching first shim = 2 hours. 

     

    Finishing shims, smoothing edges = 1 hour.

     

    * Doing the other sides and ultimately connecting the next half:

     

    100_9988_zps7zlsrblu.jpg

     

     

    100_9989_zps8kkn9lit.jpg

     

    1)  Once it's dry you do the same on the other side.  Line it up and use the same method, but obviously you can't clip it the same way.  You can clip the ends then use rare earth magnets to hold the middle.  The point is to cover as much surface as possible in hopes of getting the best stick.  You can put a piece of tape across the seam if you want or just put the magnets right on.

     

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    101_0065_zpsuajzkdwc.jpg

  2. Now you want to line up the inner and outer parts.  I did forearms first.  Like a real forearm, the top will be larger then the bottom, so you taper it down.  Just make sure there is enough room to get it on and off over your wrist, lol.  

     

    1)  I used painters tape to hold the shape for test fits.  Make sure to look at it on in a mirror as well as a few angles to see if it looks okay.  

     

    100_9956_zpsrbxp6bny.jpg

     

    100_9957_zps4qtkgzds.jpg

     

    100_9958_zpswa4ysmgz.jpg

     

     

    Now we need to cut it.  Another newer concept with the AM 2.0 kit is "butt joining" the parts.  Older kits had a flap of sort on one part and you simply cut the other part to fit then glued it on underneath.  To be more screen accurate you have to line up the parts, cut it so the seam is in the middle then glue on "cover strips" over it.  (We'll do cover strips down the road).

     

    Keeping in mind the part is tapered, you will be making cuts and end up with some angle excess so don't freak.  The goal is to have the part form fitting but have the cover strip even, centered and vertical.  

     

    1)  First thing I did was tape the inside since I'll be marking the outside.  I want to keep the shape so put a piece the entire length to hold it.

     

    100_9959_zpsxhpckm2x.jpg

     

    2)  Using a ruler I eye up the middle on the top.  Clamp it down then line up the middle on the bottom.  Draw a line with a pencil.  (Note, you can use pencil to mark anywhere and everywhere without hurting the armor.  It will rub or erase right off).  As you can see there is an angle I was talking about.

     

    100_9960_zpsougsucwg.jpg

     

    100_9961_zpssrr15jl6.jpg

     

    3)  Keeping it taped I cut off the TOP part only.   Do the same for the other side.

     

    100_9965_zps293q5kom.jpg

     

    100_9962_zps0krkde6q.jpg

     

    4)  Now you want to put a pencil line using the hopefully straight, centered and vertical cut you just made smile.png

     

    100_9963_zpsz8vcsawi.jpg

     

    5)  You will have a lot more excess then the top part and that's okay.  Since this was the inside it will also be more straight.  The outer part was the one that tapered which accounts for the angle.  Cut off the excess.

     

    100_9966_zpszs5vjy0k.jpg

     

    100_9967_zpsrxuxgnsy.jpg

     

    6)  Now you should have two parts that are about equal and line up.  Use tape to put them back together and they should be pretty decent.

     

    100_9968_zpslqbyfz6z.jpg

     

    100_9969_zpstwdigtwe.jpg

     

    100_9970_zpsakvwbcaq.jpg

     

    When all is said and done both parts should be about equal.  Before cutting the second one I taped and lined them up to see if they match.  After all the cuts I retaped them and they are still even.

     

    100_9972_zpsnkesprky.jpg

     

    100_9973_zpsmbvqbeht.jpg

     

    The above shot is good, it shows how drastically different shapes the two are.  

    • Like 1
    • Lined it up one more time on the belt to make sure it is all good then riveted the elastic onto the outside of the inner drop box.  Also added a love note to the wife that will be hidden on the inside forever hahaha!

    100_9931_zps6o2ryb9q.jpg

     

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    100_9936_zpsthtppsd2.jpg

     

    • Snapped the inner box into the outer box and I'm done.  You can glue them if you want, but honestly they are tight enough to just sit like this.  Down the road maybe I'll add some sort of magnet system and make them functional to hold a few dollars and an ID

    100_9937_zpsaxgurf9v.jpg

     

    I have a tutorial somewhere about using a rivet gun, but basically you put the smaller part into the hole and leave the part with the nail sticking out.  This is the part you want to see because the nail will be snapped off.  You simply put the nail into the rivet gun and squeeze the handle a few times.  It will get tighter and tighter then the nail part snaps off.

     

    100_9934_zpsgkiil7zh.jpg

     

    100_9935_zpssp30fvyv.jpg

     

     

    Time check:

    Trimming the belt, lining it up to the canvas and creating the drop boxes took about 1 1/2 hours.

     

    Did biceps and forearms today.

     

    First thing to note, especially with the AM 2.0 kits - the parts are VERY specific and drastically different in regards to left and right.  Apparently they are done this way to be super screen accurate.  Here is the differences:

     

    1)  Left bicep has a "thumb print", right does not.  Left forearm has 11 "bumps", right has 12.

     

    100_9887_zpslctoosde.jpg

     

    2)  Right bicep without "thumb print" and right forearm with 12 "bumps".

     

    100_9882_zpspzjxpal8.jpg

     

    Another thing you need to know is the whole "return edge" stuff.  Basically when the part is pulled off the mold you have to cut it out.  It's cut leaving some excess, so you have this edge thing around all the parts.  You have to trim most of it off as you mod and assemble it to fit you.

     

    A newer concept is now leaving some of these return edges on.  This came about from continuing research, hi-rez movie clips searching, costume books and seeing screen used suits on tour.  It was found that some of the parts kept a return edge to give it the illusion of being thicker then it was.  I've done a ton of research on FISD about which parts you do and don't keep, and although for basic approval it really doesn't matter for higher level goals and general coolness you can keep a few on.  Here's what I did for mine (part is higher level goal and part is to make it look cool)

     

    Kept return edge:

    • Biceps outer part tops
    • Forearm outer part tops

    Cut return edge:

    • Biceps bottoms both parts
    • Biceps inner part tops
    • Forearms bottoms both parts
    • Forearms inner part tops

     

    Return edge example (out of box parts)

     

    100_9954_zpsgw4oxrgq.jpg

     

     

    Return edge cut off

     

    100_9955_zpsvvxb8rnq.jpg

     

    I used the tin snips to rough cut off the return edges.  Later I'll use a dremel with sanding bit to clean it all up.

  3. Next I set it up for the canvas belt.  I had one from a previous purchase and it has the plastic insert to make it stiff. Note besides the plastic and canvas belt there is a small three button like strip.  This is cut and used later to cover the rivets.

     

    100_9901_zpsufuddv3h.jpg

    • I folded it in half, marked the center then measured for the middle.

     100_9917_zpsgpuu3n9d.jpg

     

    100_9918_zpsfn1n5iru.jpg

     

    • I used a needle pokey thing to make a hole, and actually used a screw to hold it in place.  I also marked the top with tape so I don't put anything upsidedown lol.

    100_9919_zpsfgzimvsj.jpg

     

    100_9920_zpshmdmihgm.jpg

     

    This was now set up for the drop boxes.

     

    • Eyed it up by folding the white elastic over the canvas belt part, then made sure the drop boxes just about touch the plastic belt.  The elastic should be about a third of the way down (marked it with a pencil line)

    100_9921_zpsa8n4y6vn.jpg

     

    100_9922_zps08xoglhh.jpg

     

    • Now the bottom of the elastic is where it should end up.  So you have to make the hole a little higher for the rivet you'll attach.  I measured the middle of the box, then eyed it up just a tad.  

    100_9926_zpsdao3jcte.jpg

     

    • Lined up the elastic again, then eyed up the pencil mark with the elastic and made a dot with a sharpie

    100_9925_zpsynjuetll.jpg

     

    • Used a soldering iron to make the the holes in both the elastic and the plastic.  I did drill a small pilot hole in the elastic first.

    100_9928_zpsg8f04bpi.jpg

     

    100_9929_zpsnvle4688.jpg

     

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    Tips - while I may have ultimately ruined my soldering iron at this point by using it this way so many times, it actually works awesome to make holes in webbing, elastic and even plastic.  Perfect for the buttons and rivets smile.png

     

    Also, when you cut webbing or elastic burn the edges with a lighter real quick so they won't fray down the road.

  4. Hey guys!

     

    I joined like many older members back in '06 with a basic FX kit, lmao, and although I love it because of the memories I freely admit it's old, busted up and outdated at this point.  I had always planned on upgrading but I'm also a guy that is constantly building other costumes so this was put on the back burner.  Over the last year our Garrison had like five new members that all wanted to build a TK, and I offered to help because I have a nice workshop area and was close enough to most of them.

     

    As we began building I had to come back here and get up to speed on all the new CRL stuff (man has that changed since 2006 hahahaha!).  I helped four members build their TKs so far, and along the way decided it was time for me to do the same.  I tossed around a few vendors but an opportunity for the AM 2.0 kit popped up so I jumped on it.

     

    I did a very thorough and detailed build thread on the NER boards, to hopefully help new members, and also tried to estimate the time I put into it as so many people ask "how long does it take to build these things?".  Obviously the time is spread out over a few months, but I wanted to count how many actual hours I put in.  

     

    I won't kill you all with EVERY post from my build thread, you can see it on the NER boards here:

     

    http://www.501stner.com/members/index.php?showtopic=10224&page=1

     

    but figured I'd at least share a few things I did along the way.  

     

     

     

     Okay.  So first off I trimmed the belt.  I used a link found on FISD to get measurements :

     

    • First I trimmed the tops and bottoms by literally 2mm.  The suggestion is 3-5mm and the AM 2.0 kit is about 7mm.
    • Made a line, clamped it down real good on my drafting table then scored it with a razor knife

    100_9907_zpsal1jpgfp.jpg

     

    100_9908_zpsobtvb0x2.jpg

     

    100_9909_zpsgyxjkchj.jpg

     

    • Then used needlenose pliers to bend off the excess.  ( I actually used the scissors on the second side instead of the pliers.  Later I cleaned it up with the sanding bit on a dremel.

    100_9910_zps1nzsjhny.jpg

     

    • Next I made the cuts on the sides.  Measured 1 1/2" from last box to edge (double checked it - this then makes it about 3/4" from rivet hole to edge)

    100_9912_zps6gmkxyi6.jpg

     

    100_9913_zpsvs6p8me5.jpg

     

    • You need to make cuts on all four corners.  You measure in 1/2" on each side (horizontal and vertical), then make a small box then make a diagonal line.  Cut it off with scissors or tin snips.  

     100_9914_zpspcjgiemw.jpg

     

    100_9915_zps9fyuyjxi.jpg

     

    • Sanded all the edges with the dremel, drilled the pilot holes for the rivets and it's ready to go.

    100_9916_zpsuydnwfaa.jpg

  5. Here's a quick question - what is the preferred size lengthwise of the TD?  I've found a few different threads with a range, the tube that came with the kit looks like this (not glued this is just held on for pic)

     

    100_9899_zpsswngpdqf.jpg

     

    Do we need to trim it down a little or will it be fine as is?  Thanks!

  6. Take it apart and redo it is my suggestion. And don't hot glue the lenses like that. The glue seeping out of the sockets is quite visible, and you don't want it to be air tight anyway, as some important ventilation takes place through the eye sockets.

     

    I also recommend trimming down the ears more. They look really, really fat compared to what it's supposed to be like.

     

    Thanks!  The screws are only a little more then hand tight because I wasn't happy with the way it was sitting, lol, so I can definitely do that.  

     

    And yeah, the hot glue seeped out as I put it on and I noticed that.  There is enough visor material for redo I figured I'd get the sit fixed first then go back and address that.  What do you guys do to attach them besides hot glue then?  I saw one thread where a guy made a stack of plastic to glue it (or screw it) on so you didn't have to actually try and lock it in on the eye holes.  Or use a different glue?

     

    And we can trim the ears no problem, he's coming by Saturday to work on it I was off today so getting a little head start :)

  7. We ended up just gluing the shoulder bridges, they seem to be fine even though there is a little space in the front lol...

     

    Belt worked out fine with the rivets.

     

    New question:

     

    The bucket I just made on our second member's kit seems to have a little lopsidedness, like it's raising it's eyebrow lmao!

     

    297A26B8-2FAD-4579-BEE8-7F54B38E9E93_zps

     

    I used the already supplied screw bumps and everything lined up okay.  Is that natural for the helmet or do I need to glue it or am I missing something?  Thanks!

  8. The small rounded screws are technically for the other ab button plate.

     

    If you used them for the belt-canvas attachment, and they become loose over time, you may run into issues with tightening them, depending on how your glue the rivet squares on the front of the plastic belt.

     

    What I did was rivet snaps, using 2 washers plus the snap on the inside of the plastic, and then marked corresponding snaps on the canvas, that way my plastic belt is completely removable from my canvas belt

    Ahhhh that makes sense!  I totally forgot those would be for the other ab plate, we're using the paint one thanks!

  9. No worries Joseph, feel free to throw in any questions you have here as well I won't feel hijacked and we'll help each other out!

     

    Another question just came up:

     

    We're using the hardware that came with the kit, I'm assuming for the belt we use the small, rounded screws with locknuts?

     

    100_9798_zpsp2fjdj28.jpg

     

    We planned on using the flat covers as opposed to those stacked rounded ones, but the plastic doesn't make it flush to the belt?

     

    100_9799_zpsm3rpp1eb.jpg

     

    We're working for another hour or so then later tonight I'll do some independent research here, but if anyone has quick advice we appreciate it!  Thanks!

  10. Hey guys, I've been helping two of our new recruits build their TKs.  Both got the AM 2.0 kit.

     

    I made my first TK back in '06 as an old FX (I know I know hahaha).  Over the years I made a few AM version one kits for guys but this is my first dealing with the 2.0 kit.  I did a ton of research here with them on building this armor (and the new standards) and as we get closer to finishing we have a few questions.  I figured I'd start this thread as a place to throw them up for tips

     

    1)  Shoulder bridges - where exactly are they supposed to sit on the 2.0 kits?  The chest has that angle where it looks like they would be to sit evenly, and it's also thinner then the bridges.  We shaved them down a little, but before we go any further anyone have some advice?  Here is how they are lining up right now (unglued)

     

    100_9796_zpska2oqvqh.jpg

     

    100_9797_zpshnilcwav.jpg

  11. Hey guys, I've made a few TKs over the years but mostly back in the late 2000's before a lot of the updated standards and EIB / Centurion stuff :)

     

    I'm helping a few new recruits with their armor, and I spent about 5 hours browsing all the updated information here so I have a pretty good idea of proper standards, cuts, return edges, etc....  The only thing I can't seem to find is measurements for the "Cap rivets" and "split rivets" guys are using?

     

    I think I saw 7mm somewhere, but this is one of those items where you have such a variety I don't want to end up with the wrong ones.  Meaning size of the circle, length of the post, color and so on.

     

    Can anyone point me in the right direction?  Thanks!

  12. Sorry for raising this from the dead, lol, but a question came up on our boards (for fun) and I totally remembered some discussion over here about what side to wear the holster so I did a quick search and here we are
    :)

     

    I basically chimed in on our boards pretty much what was already written here (can't believe my memory was that good). Reading back through this though, I figured I'd throw a few things out there.

     

    I'm left handed writing, but right side dominant for everything else - like shooting and kicking and punching. I also skateboard and surf regular (rightie) but realized I brush my teeth with my left hand and always put my left foot in pants first hahaha! I also think I wear my pants belt backwards compared to the rest of you (or righties)... I thread it from the right going into the left and thus circling around back to my right (if that makes sense). Some weird things going on there.

     

    Also, back on topic, has anyone ever considered the very simply answer as to which side the holster should be worn = whatever side you want to shoot from? I'm a police officer, and although we all wear the same uniform our gun is just worn on whatever side we shoot from thus some holsters are on the left and some on the right. I get that in the movie they probably had reasons like the layout of the E-11 and wanting to look uniform and consistent, but if we wanted to look at the reasons as if Star Wars was "real" then we could take the ROTJ Endor battle and simply say some are holding it the blaster with their right and others with their left simply because that is their dominant hand
    ;)

     

    And not for nothing, we can't hit anything anyway so which way you're holding it or where the holster is ends up a moot point lmao
    :laugh1:
  13. Welcome! There's tons of good info here, plus there may be some new makers of armor you may not know about. Though I am in Georgia now I grew up in the beautiful Garden State. What part are you in? Or as the very old joke goes, what exit? :lol::P

     

    lol, I'm from Dirty Jerzey, exit 100 = Jersey Shore baby!

     

    I live in Neptune, which is Central Jersey about 1 mile off the coast, and although the idiots from the "Jersey Shore" show actually trek up to my neighborhood bars on occassion, we are NOTHING like that (on the show they go to the Headliner, DJs and Connelly Station, which are all our local hang out spots and only club scene like once a week - the rest of the time it's just a normal bar). Neptune is about 10 miles north of Point Pleasant, and 15 miles north of Seaside Heights for reference.

     

    We're all surf and skate punks, laid back and enjoy rock and metal music. Of course bordering my town to the north is Asbury Park, which is unfortunately a very low income and extremely violent city full of Bloods and now Pagans (go figure that combination hahahaha). Still, it's an incredibly diverse area and I'll never move out, I absolutely love it here!!

     

    Anyways, Paul is an awesome dude and has an incredible Fett. He has mad building skills and his Clone is going to be sweet, I've already seen some progress on it. Glad you registered here dude :)

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