troopermaster

Hey I have one of these that I think is from Shawn.I bought it well over a year ago and have yet to paint it and stick on the greeblies.It is still a cream colour resin blaster that I really need to get put together.

You could try different glues on scrap ABS and test their adhesion that way.In my experience E6000 is awesome.As long as you sand the plastic first and apply the E6000 to BOTH parts and leave until touch dry (5 mins) and then bond both parts together you should have no problems.It's flexible too so takes a beating I've used CA/superglue and it's useless for armour IMO.It dries like glass and doesn't allow any flexing and pops apart with any stress on the joins. I use E6000 for glueing elastic straps to my armour and it's held up fine.When I made a mistake once with a strap and needed to take it off,it took some doing I can tell you -Paul.

I think you can only buy SDS products in the UK,though someone in the UK might be able to ship them out to you if you were to buy one.That's what I've gathered sifting through all the SDS/AA threads on the RPF

For a start that's an MGC sterling and not an L2A3 which is what the ANH and ESB's are.The ROTJ blaster in the pic above,has a totally different scope rail,different scope,barrel fins and greeblies are all different to an ESB.I'll try and find some good pics and make a comparison.

I think it should be optional for either a canvas or leather belt at this point as it has not been confirmed 100% as yet. DaBar....your blaster is an ROTJ model and not ESB,just FYI

Here's a pic of my current canvas belt.What I did was use thin canvas and wrap it around 3" wide elastic to give it some girth.The ends have velcro the same width as the belt and the same length as the strip on the kidney plate which is what the overlap should be (or there about).The plastic front panel is riveted in place and plastic caps cover the heads.The holster is also riveted to the belt in the same way as the movie suit's.I still have yet to add the snaps on the inside to fix the belt to my ab plate but I need to find some way of fixing them on as they are not long enough to fix through the thick belt.Anyhow,you should be able to make an accurate canvas belt looking at this pic but you might want to just use a few layers of canvas and sew them together to make it thicker.

I'll have a go at making a tutorial for the canvas belt as I will be making one very soon

Very interesting So how do you make the stuff?Is it a case of mixing it up and laying it into a mould?Do you need any special equipment to use this stuff? I've been searching/testing different plastics too but for vacuum forming.If this resin can be made to different hardness' then I think you might be onto a winner! Now,where do I get it from -Paul.

That's coming along nicley G,and always happy to help

This is the best pic I have of a stormtrooper belt.I haven't heard any hard evidence of the material used,and it's possible that some were leather and some canvas,who really know's?Make up your own mind from this pic

Well the tops half looks to fit you very well,way better than shorter guys There's no real set distance between the leg parts.If you watch ANH you'll see lots of different sized actors,some with no gaps at the knees and some with lots.I would try adding a few inches to each part and see how that looks.You'll need bigger gaps at the backs anyway if you plan to walk up steps -Paul.

I've just bought one from www.spandexman.com for $54.00 model #308 and it's great.Lots of different styles to choose from,with hoods,gloves,feet,extra zips.....Worth the money and very lightweight and stretchy -Paul.

I agree,extending the raised edge around the knees would be best IMO.You could rivet extra ABS strips and it would look 'better'. I believe TKBIG parts were wider and not longer as I recall.

The pics G has posted are of a 'tour suit' and not an ROTJ.Only the tour suit's had the holes under the eyes and the boots were very similar to the original ANH,with elastic sides and not zips.Another tour suit 'tell' is the vinyl shoulder straps that are riveted to the chest.The ROTJ's had vac formed plastic shoulder straps ane were velcro'd to the chest and back plates.I've also heard that the tour suit's were made from Kydex as opposed to the ABS(?) for the ROTJ's

I have a similar belt under my armour.It's a leather belt with elastic straps for the thighs and velcro tabs.I use elastic for all my straps on my arms and legs,all have velcro and never come loose.Here's a drawing I made a while back showing my strapping for the arms and legs.Works very well and main body armour can be taken off without removing any of the arm and leg armour.

You could try a canvas/webbing strap like this. For the ab plate,TK8020 got it nailed with the ABS to fill the gap

I'm sure you could pick up some thick HIPS or ABS at your local hobby store.I use .100 but .80 would still be strong enough for the tabs.E6000 will stick HIPS to ABS,or any other plastic for that matter

CA glue is good for nothing IMO.E6000 all the way If your going for the snap'n'strap system,you can make your tabs with the male snaps on and tape them in place while test fitting to make sure they are in the right place.Just wear the suit for while and try doing things in the house,you'll soon know what wants adjusting.Then just move the tabs inside and try again,once happy commit to gluing.I'll give you a tip though,if your making the plastic tabs,only glue the ends of the plastic and not the metal snap!It's been my experience that when you clip the tabs in with grips it will melt the plastic where the metal snap is if you put glue on the snap.Another thing,you will never be able to move really freely in your armour so don't try too hard making it too comfortable,it won't happen As long as the pinching is down to a minimum,I would be happy with that! -Paul.

I bought a cheap holster from ebay and modified it to fit my resin cast E-11(from a real sterling).I've made my own template below for anyone who wishes to have a go at making their own

Yup,rivets are best IMO but you can get these small allen head bolts that look like rivet heads on one side but use a nut and washer on the other so it's not 'permanently' attached.

Looks a bit big to me,but a good effort.

Cool! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with I might have a go at forming the box.Do you reckon it's the same thickness as the plastic belt front or slightly wider?I'm guessing 4" square,with the backing plate maybe 4" x 6".I could do with some nice screen caps or pics before I start.

Great idea. I don't think that the hook would need to work,just look good on the belt.I mean,it's not like it's going to be used is it,so looking nice on the belt would be fine for me.I would be up for one if they turn out nice

Actually the chest is supposed to have a lip on the bottom and the sides.These lips are where the straps are riveted for the interior strapping on the originals.Don't worry about it though,unless your going for 100% authenticity Most of the original arms didn't have any 'lines of illusion' either,just rough cut.I see a lot of people leaving lips on their arm parts but they dig into me so I don't bother with them.

I made my own clips from 1" flat aluminium bar.Very simple to make,just bend a piece around you canister and leave a 3" flat spot to clip onto you belt.