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TK5144

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by TK5144

  1. you DONT have to repaint the entire helmet.

    just make your teeth holes bigger and paint the frown larger, raise the brow trim, cut down the ears, replace the tube stripes - you will be fine.

    Oh yeah - fill the gap above the frown with white caulk or similar.

    AND replace the lenses with darker lenses.

     

    there were lots of MRCE mod threads a year or 2 ago. search my post topics for my finished product photos.

     

    Actually for $150 for this helmet, then do all the mods, it really would be cheaper to get a VT, AP second, or ATA. I think all of those look alot better, just personal preference. Even fully modded, I still think the MRCE (now eFX) still look a little off... i think its the frown that bothers me the most.

     

    That said - I keep my MRCE, because it is by far the most durable helmet. Not too heavy, weight wise - but it is SOLID plastic.

  2. Debbie, So sorry for your loss.

    Everyone here knows you are good to keep your word and that your work is awesome. I am a happy owner of your Scout soft parts! Thanks again for the service you offer to those of us that can't sew! Best wishes in your time of mourning.

    Derek

  3. I bought as an temporary solution an FX bucket and plan is to upgrade this to comply with EIB. A thought popped into mind, if this would be convertible to AT-AT. Has anyone done this? :lol:

     

    you would be better off with:

    1. sell the fx bucket.

    2. get a ATAT kit. go over to the armored calvary board, they can hook you up.

    3. or be really creative, spend more money, have more fun and do it yrself... you can get a nice xwing helmet HIPS kit over on rebel leigion board for ~$80 to 100.

  4. are you talking about

     

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    or

     

    -----

     

    The top one I had to order. did not care for it much.

    the bottom one is ROCK Solid, but a pain to mix and use, waste a lot, and smells terrible.

     

    Anyway... are you attaching your snap plates to the inside of your armor? Why not just use E6000?

  5. I have a VT stunt helmet. It is a nice ABS lid. The ABS is thick and sturdy - not as thick as my FX armor, but feels much more sturdy than my HIPS helmet. I have an AP (actually 2 now, 1 still in kit form). The VT is a little bigger than AP, but I think that size on these will vary based on the assembler. VT sends fairly nice mic tips, brow trim and s shaped neck trim with your kit. The lens material is also rigid, from a welder's shield. Also VT comes with great decals. The pull on my VT helmet is not quite as sharp as what I have seen with AP. There are some surface defects and a pretty good fold at the back of the tube stripe area on both sides. Overall - the helmet looks good when complete. If you want perfection in ABS - buy a first quality ABS lid from AP or MC or TM. I would be a nice to see a comparison side by side.

     

    My understanding of the whole VT history is The molds originated from CAP who recast an old TE. He bought CAP's helmet molds. Did not cast anything himself.

     

    He is very nice to deal with, answers emails quickly, and ships promptly. You can at least be confident that you will get what you order in a timely fashion and any problems will be addressed - I have never heard of any problems with customer service with VT.

  6. Ok, thats what I needed to know. I have a MR helmet and its to small and need to get a new helmet. either TK or TD one, when I think I have one, its already sold.. lol

     

    look at RT or Kev's ANH v2 or 2.5. I have a v2, and it is my favorite helmet. I also have an RT. Size is about the same. both are bigger than the MRCE. OR - you could wait for the new AM to come out with a new helmet.

     

    Derek

  7. Another option is using elastic to create stirrups.

     

    Take a piece of elastic of appropriate length and glue each end to the inside of the shin, forming a loop. When you put on the shin piece, wrap the elastic under the arch of your foot, then put on the boot.

     

    I made stirrups like mentioned above, and it works MUCH better than velcro. Reason - the velcro does not allow for any motion. With an elastic stirrup it lets you have some play.

    I need to take a picture to explain it better.

  8.  

    It has been pretty extensively discussed. Use your search feature on the forum, or try here:

    http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=9180

    3rd post down lists 4 more threads.

    It seems very well summed up there, unless someone has new info to add.

    Did the price go up? I thought they were $499 around Christmas time.

  9.  

    I'm VERY indecisive, however, on the brow height. Part of me wants to go higher...the other likes it where it is...higher than a hero but not so high that it feels sloppy. I've seen it both ways in reference photos so I'm curious to hear how you TKs and TDs feel about this.

     

    IMO - raise the brow a bit (but not too much - take a couple millimeters off then eyeball it). (you are doing ANH style, right?)

    Obivously, there is no right or wrong.... just personal taste/opinion.

  10. blueboxer said:

    I recently built this ANH 2.5 bucket... it's a really great lid!!! Kevin is a super guy to deal with too. ;)

     

    ====

     

    Did you not use the pre-cut lens that Kev supplied with the helmet kit? I liked how it was all one piece, cut with exact holes marked for the screws from the ear area to keep the lens material all in a wrap around like effect. The curve of the material holds it fairly snug against the eye holes, but there is a little gap for air movement. No glue needed!

  11. Hello,

    I have a friend who wants to replace his FX with something more accurate and small......

     

     

    Kev's ANH is not small. It is smaller than FX. Not as small as AP, ATA, etc.

    I have one of his version 2.0. I really like it because of the durability. version 2.5 is the most current version - which maybe a little smaller? but I can not comment having not held both.

  12. Sweet. E-6000 Thanks everybody!

     

    The biggest problem with E6000 is the time to dry and be secure (I would wait several hours, maybe up to 24 hours?). If you have something you need done quick, that will not have tons of stress on it - use Zap a Gap CA glue, with Zip Kicker. I have also used the Plastic Welder - it is the most solid stuff ever, dries fast (maybe even too fast), smells terrible.

    post-7273-1262831921_thumb.jpg

     

     

    One advantage of the E6000 is that it has a little rubbery flexibility to it even when completely dry.

     

    Best advice is probably to get a couple glues and use them as needed. I would be too impatient to do everything with E6000, but it would probably turn out very nice.

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