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Posts posted by TK5144
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Should I move up more and cut at the second line? Should it be between where I cut and my second line, or is this a good length?
cut more off. maybe between the lines, but I think up to the second line is fine.
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How does your kid like trooping in the TK? My son liked his clone, but it was tougher for him than his Jawa.
she had a blast. she was the hit of the troop. all the troopers loved it. she loved the attention. kids loved her too.
she had a few armor bites, and was a bit clumsy with walking... but I think she was cooler than when she wore the jawa.
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The knee plate is good. The problem is my daughter is probably on the tall side for wearing this armor. I need to make a little adjustment to angle the knee plate a bit so it doesnt hit her kneecap!
The back of the helmet does stick out a little. it is only noticable from the side view. She didn't complain of getting too hot, so air must have been OK. I didn't even install fans yet!
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Walt makes a very nice kit.
easy to build.
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Those glue spots will just be weathering
Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk
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your shoulders look to be sticking out.
Hard to tell from the pics, but do you have a really big shoulder width?
for instance - how tall / how much do you weigh?
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hey! what happened to the forearm gap conclusion!
the suspense is killing me!
seriously - to me the gap is not enough to be concerned with.
shin trimming looks good to me. when you test fit you might find you want to take a little more off on the top of the shins
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If a person's legs are so wide as to need the front ridge to be 50mm across, should he have the cover strip be 50mm also, or keep it 20mm and allow ridge to show on both sides of the cover strip.?
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thanks for posting
I have enjoyed watching them
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I buy most of my elastic from
http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=elastic
even with a Joann's sale, they may be cheaper
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the best method I have found is - I took 1 inch wide elastic about 10 inches length. I attached a small square of ABS (1 x 1 inch) to the elastic with a rivet, on each end of the elastic. then E6000 glue the abs squares inside the calf pieces forming a U shapped "stirrup", so that the bottom of the U is just at the opening to the ankle. I put my leg into the stirrup while holding the back of the calf open, then slide into the boot. There is enough stretch and tension with the elastic to keep it down very tight.
I agree that your boots are not completely accurate, and would not qualify you for advanced status like EIB - but they should be fine for general 501st approval IMO.
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I think this is actually the NE maker selling kits now on ebay?
cheaper than the suppliers here by over a hundred dollars (unless they have lowered prices recently)
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Alright, I'm getting ready to start some gluing and had some questions about technique:
1) Should I glue one half of the finishing strip to one side of a piece, clamp it and wait 24 hours, then glue / clamp down to the other side, or should I put the two pieces together under the finishing strip and glue / clamp down the entire strip at once?
2) It seems that no matter what option I use, once I get to the point of gluing the other side's finishing strip down, I won't have the ability to do one side of the finishing strip first, and then the other, because the two pieces will be basically touching already. If I'm incorrect on this, should I use the "one half" method on the second finishing strip or the "all at once" method?
3) What is the current recommendation for inside finishing strips? I feel I can do without them, but if there are enough compelling arguments, I could change that feeling.
4) I have these magnets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084UASJQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2AN80OGADPFB5 . Are these going to work for the center areas of finishing strips where clamps can't reach? Or do I need to buy wider / strong magnets?
EDIT:
I'm seeing these magnets on Amazon:
That's quite the deal. I can get 12 of those for $14. 25.4mm x 6.35mm x 6.35mm . 77% off because of Cyber Monday deals. Would these be good for finishing strip compression in the center areas, like thighs and shins?
Actually, the more I read about these, people are saying the strongest part of these magnets is at the ends, not through the length of the bar. I was wanting to lay them on their side and have them hold together that way, but it's the tips that are the strongest, which means the surface area is only going to be 6.35mm x 6.35mm. It's about the same as my 6.35mm diameter round magnets. I'm not sure why these are 25.4mm long. I don't get what purpose that serves.
Well, I've ordered them anyway and if they don't work for what I need, I'll send them back.
1. I did some of it both ways. As long as you are using something like E6000 for glue, you should be fine to glue both sides at once. If you want to be sure that they are straight the first time, then do one at a time.
2. yes the back half will have to be all at once.
3. I used inside strips, just because I thought it would add more strength. In retrospect, I will probably try my next build without them. The E6000 is pretty strong.
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is PVC more difficult the makers to vacuform it? Why does no one else offer PVC?
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for not much more than that money you could get the lands end chelsea.
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Well Mike, you're right on 2 counts:
1. I was wrong. I haven't seen a trooper sport Caboots in so long that I had mistakenly thought we'd pushed that detail down to base CRL. Apologies!
2. I'm quite confident that the new Caboots will be everything you promise.
Bonus:
3. The real winners will be 501st troopers, as they'll have 2 good sources for accurate boots.
Thanks for clarifying this. I thought it was still OK for basic approval.
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I did not know that you could not even get a 501st approved TK with CAboots anymore.
The CRL page still even show someone wearing CAboots.
I knew for EIB and Centurion that more accuracy would be needed.
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These are no longer Legion acceptable. They look like Caboots which were back in the day, but no longer are now. Surprised that Mike hasn't swapped suppliers. TKBoots are the most accurate generally available turn-key and are cheaper than Caboots.
not even legion accepted?
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. Next we attached the shoulder bells to the chest. We positioned the biceps, marked them and glued the straps in place. We also installed the elastic that attaches the forearm to the bicep.
Is there elastic that attaches the bicep to the shoulder bell? or just the elastic the loops around the bicep that is only physically attached to the shoulder bell?
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I'ts definetely AP but the old version with less accurate ear pieces and back/cap, very different from current AP helmets
when did AP helmets change?
Maxsteele's New NE Armor Build
in ANH Build Threads
Posted
on the backside, glue a scrap of ABS in with CA glue.
That will give it strength.
then blend your crack with some ABS paste.... it will look perfect from the outside and be strong enough.