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ABS80

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About ABS80

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    Mark

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  1. I get you 100% but I didn't say its cheap, it just feels cheap/fragile when people handle it first hand. Mark (AP)
  2. Like Paul clearly stated the original movie armors were very thin so more flexible as you can see from Han's chest plate, you will also notice Han's thigh pieces bend quite a bit as he jump into the trash compactor, a 2mm+ plastic doesn't have any give and the armor would just cut into your skin, way too rigid for stunt work. I use .80 gauge which is thicker than original because IMHO its the best of both worlds, you get durability and real armor feel without loosing too much details, 1mm is very thin and gets even thinner in many spots when thermoforming so it has a very cheap/fragile feel to it, when people pay that much money for a costume they expect quality and a 1mm though its movie accurate and pulls are super sharp it simply looks too flimsy for a armor. BTW Paul your more in a lying down position and to boot on a soft couch so the armor doesn't get the same stress Mark (AP)
  3. Many of the movie stunt helmets left ear sits lower creating same gap on top near rubber trim, this is mainly because of the assymetries of the molds, the right and left ear are completely different in shape so is the helmet. Check www.starwarshelmets.com you can see many stunt helmets with gap in the same exact spot
  4. Shoulder bells look huge! so are the biceps, you can also reduce return edge on sides of back plate
  5. Glued on the front, on the back they are flaoting but you can use velcro so they stay in place.
  6. I use a small exacto knife the one with pointy blade and carefully square them off including the smallest ones, or you can use a small tiny hobby files Mark (A)
  7. AP kits include matching ABS strips so plenty of extra material. Mark (AP)
  8. Correct our AP fully trimmed kit will be trimmed according to customer's size so no worries
  9. Great job Congratulations!!! To be more movie accurate trim off the big rear shoulder strap tabs. Mark (AP)
  10. Congrats!! to be movie accurate trim off the rear big + a small one on the shoulder straps, mine are made longer to fit larger people. Mark (AP)
  11. Pretty good build overall , you can trim eyes a tad more I can still see a bit of material that can be taken off, also the holes on frown can be a bit bigger and blue stripes are too far out should be closer to cheek, the TD clips screws are too close to each other, you have to trim all the return edges on the forearms elbow joints and if you can make biceps smaller it will improve look, if you look at movie original the biceps are pretty thin and flow with the forearms this will also help the shoulder bells fit better in place. Mark (AP)
  12. Here's a tip which I find useful and will save you some time and even save you from scrapping some strips from measuring errors, I cut all the strips a bit longer so when I instalI them I only have to worry about adjusting one end and just trim off excess on the other end before gluing the inner part, this way I don't have to go crazy measuring each strip to precision trying to make them fit flush on both ends. For the forearms I cut the strip to follow curvature opening only after forearms are fully assembled and glue has fully set. Mark (AP)
  13. correct but first glue the outer strips first on all outer parts.
  14. Just sent you pics, can you please post them for me this will help others Thanks Mark (AP)
  15. The best and easiest way and trust me on this I built many, is to glue all the strips on all the outer part first let dry overnight then glue in the inner part but one side first let dry then glue shut the other side, trying to glue the strip on both side at the same will be frustrating when it will come to the leg parts especially the thighs, so like I said first glue strips on all the leg and arms outer parts first then glue in the inner parts, its a little longer but its the most effecient way. I will send you photos somehow Im having a hard time posting pics here Mark (AP)
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