JasonG
-
Posts
26 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Media Demo
Posts posted by JasonG
-
-
16 hours ago, TerribleBen said:
After lots of sanding and filler primer the boxes are ready to mount. I got some 8/32 machine bolts and JB welded them into holes I drilled in the back of each box. The longer bolts are to mount the belt to the abdomen. This is my first mock up-exciting
This looks great Ben. I've basically finished the front part of my belt and I'm looking for some guidance on the back part and how it attaches to the front part.....or if it attaches at all. Does the back overlap the front on the sides? Is there velcro there or what is the back part of the belt attached to?
Something else that I'm also wondering about; on just about every photo from R1, it looks like the back part of the belt is kind of hanging down probably because of the thermal detonator. I'm curious if there is a way to fix that.
-
Did you ever figure out a solution to this? I am trying to do the exact same thing.
-
Really nice additions. Sheev's was working on an undersuit as well. Not sure if they ever finished it.Ok, post hasn't been updated in a few months, but I wanted to chime in as we start ramping up the Anthology/ Remnant forums. Of course, this isn't to diminish the ROTK at all, the items I'm adding can be used for that costume as well. Here's a few things I'd like to see added to the list. I'll also chime in on a few items in Jeff's list that I've tried out.
First and foremost, I want to start with Imperial Boots' new undersuit. This thing is phenomenal and I am preordering one ASAP.
a
For comparison, let me post the Kenobi set leak photo:
I'd say they nailed it. When I spoke to them last night, Vincent told me it's being made of elastane (spandex) blended cotton, so it's going to be a little more breathable than other jersey knit offerings out there. It'll still be a warm suit, but not nearly as bad as others. Reach out to Vincent via the Imperial Boots Facebook page for preorder instructions.
Boots:
Crowprops: I'd like to add them to the list. When I first looked into their store a year ago they didn't have half the offerings they have now, but they've really ramped up production. I've spoken with others who have their Mandalorian and Clone boots and they're all pretty happy. The soles of their boots are slightly "chunkier" than the Imperial Boots, but they look like a good option.
--EDIT-- Last night I met two other people from my garrison who were wearing Crowprops boots; they both had very positive things to say. I don't own any Crowprops products, but they seem to have good support from customers. Just an extra two cents.
Neck Seal:
Sheev's Emporium (Facebook): I bought my ICAT neck seal from Sheev's and it's absolutely awesome. This Ribs are individualy stitched and fabric is not overly heavy. David will respond to messages on Facebook and is incredibly helpful. He does his neck seals in runs so it's best to reach out and ask when he's planning on making TKs. Watch his Facebook page, it's updated regularly.
-Note- Last time I spoke to David, he indicated that his ICAT neck seal is the one he'll make for ROTKs as well. I didn't think about it until now, but after looking at the reference photos, we never get a good look at the neck seal. Regardless, Sheev's has horizontal ribbing on the apron section:
ImperialSeamstress (Etsy): I bought a Shoretrooper neck seal from Rebecca and it's fantastic. Quality rivals anything else I've seen; it may actually be better. Vendor is located in the UK and items are custom made, so if you're in the US, it takes about a month. I've referred a few STs to her and they all like their seals.
E-11:
Request to add 3d-props.com to the list. You can buy their fairly accurate .stl files, or have them build the blaster for you. However, if you have them build it, it'll cost you a lot and it takes a while. I printed their E-22 and it's by far the best looking and most accurate one out there. Company is in the Netherlands, so sometimes communication is slow if you're stateside. For files, you'll basically order and he'll send you a Dropbox link. I haven't heard the greatest reviews on their ordering process for complete blasters, but when I saw my friend's I was blown away. Unfortunately, his was sent broken and he had to fight to get a new one. Be warned, regardless of how good they look, they're 3d printed, so don't drop it. However, the base of the blaster is made of an aluminum pipe.
When you compare the base blaster to the Sterling Airsoft, they're nearly identical, but some other parts such as the power cylinders, Hengstler counter, and T-tracks are off a little. Probably not off enough to be noticed, but there's a few people out there who will. Fortunately, if this bugs you, there's others who have made 3d files available for download. This blaster is suited well for electronics and just looks awesome. This blaster is perfect for someone who needs one while we wait for new makers to come forward. Here's a pic:
Here's a pic of my incomplete E-22 so you can see how it looks when you print it yourself:
Now to update a few items on the current list:
Armor:
Jimmiroquai: This is the way... enough said. Jimi's armor has set the standard that others should emulate. Actually, there's others out there that have gone as far as to recast Jimi's kit, but I think they've all been identified. I love my helmet, but I did have to tweak it a little for accuracy sake. However, my modifications weren't anything required for basic approval and were minor to say the least. Furthermore, I didn't mention Jimi's undersuit earlier, but his kit is an excellent alternative for hot weather months. It kind of reminds me of a football practice jersey from the 80's. It's accurate where it needs to be and is the lightest, most breathable kit available. I keep putting it off, but I'll be ordering one from Jimi soon.
850 Armor Works: I've now spoken to more people who have sold their 850 kits as have built them. This isn't limited to TKs but other kits as well. I've actually 3D printed 2 Sean Fields Shoretrooper kits for people who wanted to replace their inaccurate 850 costume. I reached out to them to order two separate pieces that they have advertised on their website and it didn't go well. Initial response to emails were quick, but when I followed up with other questions they ghosted me. Additionally they told me to order what I wanted and they'd make it if they had leftover plastic from a Deathtrooper run. Think about that for a moment... I know plenty of people have received their costumes and they're ok with them, but my personal experiences leave a lot to be desired for. Sorry.
Nico Henderson: Nico's great and his helmet lives up to it's reputation. I've printed one off for a Mimban costume, but will likely print another when I get my printers set up again. His helmet is larger than I expected, but is probably the most accurate one out there. Nico had plans to make a full armor set and posted his initial pics on Facebook, but I spoke to him a while ago and he has postponed this project for the time being. If Nico does put this together, I believe him when he says it's going to be "accurate as $#!+" (his words not mine)
.
Soft Goods:
See my posts above for requested additions.
Darkside Closet: This was my first shirt and gasket combo. Very high quality, but also very thick and hot. Mike is an incredible guy and will go out of his way to help you out when you reach out to him. However, he's not a large operation and has a long wait list. When I last checked, it was over four months. The DSC items are a little more pricey than other offerings, but it's nice, however, I may have to get someone else's opinion on whether the ribs constitute the "all ribbing [must be] stitched between each rib" as required for Centurion. Here's a picture of my ribbing:
For comparison, here's the stitching on my Sheev's neckseal which looks similar to the stitching found on Jimi's undersuit:
Having spoken to Mike a few times, I know that for Shoretroopers he'll make what he calls the "level 2 shirt" which has individually stitched ribs as pictured above. He'd likely change things up for your TK shirt if you ask, but it'll cost more. Also, when I look closely at the ribbing, I can see the stitching, but it's just not a prevalent as what's shown. I think it fits the requirement, but someone else would have to make that call.
E-11s:
Hyperfirm and Praetorian are no longer making blasters. Doopy Doos web page has shown "out of stock" for over a year now.
Looking into Crowprops now. That's a great tip.
Agree that 3d-props has a great E-11 model. There are a few others floating around. Oxprops has one that prints really well. Need to get him to including spacing for electronics. -
On 8/16/2021 at 2:25 AM, TK3373 said:
Thanks Team. I plan on building the armor as ROTK first then transforming into a remnant tk,
This is also my plan. And from what I was just told elsewhere, everything else is R1TK armor except for the helmet being ANH. That's very odd to me since there is 9 years between ANH and Mando and there are several iterations of helmets between the two. Really seems like literally any helmet should be considered here only because Remnants are using anything they can get their hands on. The fall of an Empire is not the time to get picky. LOL
-
1
-
-
On 5/31/2021 at 12:27 AM, jamesmillerio said:
That's not a bad idea either, I like that approach. I could probably just 3d print the shims since I have some white and black filament laying around.
Speaking of 3d printing, I needed to make a bracket for the thermal detonator on the belt since the kit doesn't come with one. After looking around at source images, it looked pretty simple. It's essentially just a block with a cylinder indent cut out of it that the detonator sits in. The CRL says the mount needs all four sides to be self contained and to not have any clips or screws visible. I purchased some neodymium magnets for clamping snap plates while they cure and decided to embed one of those in the bracket and one in the thermal detonator so that it's attached pretty snug but can also be removed easily.
This is what I came up with:
[Link if the embed doesn't work]
I'm pretty happy with how it came out. I realize it might be entirely possible that I need to make it permanently affixed in the future less it get ripped off somehow, but I'll deal with that when the time comes. It might actually be better to have it come off easier rather than get ripped off the belt (or the belt get ripped off) if it gets caught on something.
Hi there. Nice progress on your build. I'm almost at the exact same place it looks like.
Not sure if it helps at all, but I made this for 3d printing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4875306
It's a CRL correct thermal detonator with a screw top and the correct mount. What I discovered after looking at many photos of other builds and screen grabs from Rogue One and Mando, the control panel actually goes mostly around the thermal detonator. One kit I have has it a separate mount bracket and a separate control panel bracket.
After working on it a bit, that 3d model is what I came up with. I just used the grebs from another model as a remix. I've also added several mount options to allow for magnets or how ever you want to mount it. Literally just got my neodymium magnets today.
Good luck with everything and keep it up!
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, SlyFox740 said:
You used my photos from my Reference Thread, that’s really not cool man.Also super deceiving showing images of the real thing for your 3D printing files, you literally used my photo of my hand holding my T-Track. Lol
Most importantly 3D printing is not accurate if that’s what you’re going for, not at all!Why not get the exact same real T-Track that was used on the original prop?
It’s available and still being manufactured, you can buy it here just scroll down to the bottom; https://www.3d-props.com/shop/hardware/My apologies. I've removed your one photo. I don't even think I realized it was there and didn't really add anything by being there. Again, my apologies.
By showing the real thing, I'm trying to show what I modeled it after, not what they actually are. That's why I said in the description "The attached photos are reference photos from screen used E11 in Rogue One". I was never trying to deceive anyone. I actually mentioned reference photos several times.
Also, people in this community use the resources that they have at their disposal. In many cases, 3d printing is cheaper for people and easier to do especially if you have a 3d printer and know how to model things. I'm not trying for 100% accurate to the screen used props. I am trying to model things that look as close as possible. In some cases, items are just very expensive and if people want to save money and have a 3d printer, what's the problem with that??? In other cases, items are just extremely hard to find or were fabricated for the props. It makes perfect sense to me to print a piece of plastic that looks exactly like the screen used prop for cents rather than spending a hefty sum on trying to replicate a part on a prop.
I've done a few other models and print files for other parts that people may have a hard time locating or just would rather print depending on their build:
Thermal Detonator with Screw off Cap - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4875306
Elements Flashlight - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4840809
E11 PowerCells - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4834175
Hengstler Counter Small Eagle Plate - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4829947
E11 T Tracks - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4826975
The 3d Props website is using the T-Track measurement photo from the original https://www.tubewaysales.com/ website, by the way.
You can say that 3d printing is not accurate at all, but then people are printing entire suits of armor for some CRLs because the only way they can do it. Many MANY people have 3d printed their Rogue One TK helmets. So none of them are accurate?
Again, my apologies.
-
9 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:
Good call on that. I just noticed they have quite a few bad reviews on their Etsy page because of slow shipping/no shipping/no communication. What a shame.
Thanks for taking care of this. It is a real shame. I had ordered a helmet from them and, fortunately, was able to get my money back. Apparently quite a few people have lost money on purchases because they were pushed over the 180 days limit to file complaints through Paypal. I really hope they get things figured out. We need more New Anthology TK vendors.
-
Ah yeah..... I see what you mean. When I taped my ab part around me and walked up the stairs in my house, it definitely seems like pieces would be hitting each other if I had my thigh parts on. From the pictures it looks like there would be some stress on that lower part if it's too rigid.
That's helpful. I looked through some of the build threads but no one really mentioned them. I saw one other person asking what that area was for but then ended up leaving most of it.
I think I have a good idea of what I want to do then.
Thank you so much everyone for the input and help.
-
1
-
-
Yeah it does look more like this part is missing on the back more so on the front. And I guess it would only be for keeping the belt in place on the front.
My armor has a tall 3 inch lip on the bottom of the ab piece almost as tall as a belt. I'd like to take that down some to maybe an inch.
Are people gluing their belt there or velcro or snaps? Or does it just stay in place because of the teeth on the top of the belt?
I had planned on getting to my belt later this week, so I gotta figure this part out.
Thanks for the additional info and screenshots.
-
1
-
-
Ah OK. Still, though, it's missing on the other armor. I can post screenshots from The Mandolorian, Solo, and displays of the armor with it also missing. I guess the point is its missing and I'd like to figure out why and if even need that part.
You're attaching your belt to that part? Like.....gluing it or something?
-
Hi folks,
Worked on my armor a little this weekend and noticed something about the lower ab part on several screenshots from Rogue one and from some of the armor displayed at Rogue One Celebration Europe.
For reference, this is the part I'm talking about:
I was trimming my ab parts and needed a guide or a reference to look at. So this is the photo I looked at:
This extension piece seems to be missing all together on this armor simply because you can see the undersuit behind the belt.
Also looks like it's missing here:
But here.....it looks like it is present:
There are actually very few photos of this part clearly visible because of the belt. I've also seen this part missing on at least a few stills from the Mandolorian.
So my question is, what is this for, is it needed at all, and does anyone recommend keeping it or not? I taped the back and front ab parts together and it jabbed me a little when I tried to sit (not that you should be sitting in armor anyway, right?)
Honestly, I'd prefer to trim it off unless its something that is absolutely needed. If it's there to make the belt sit more inline with the ribs on the ab part, I might make a smaller lip to help with that. Seems like you'd also have a little more freedom and not such a problem with the cod part drooping and saggy trooper butt if that part.
I don't see this area specifically called out in the CRL, unless I'm just not understanding the part they are talking about.
Any thoughts or advice is welcome.
Thanks!
-
Well.... After speaking with several others and having to file a grievence against them myself via paypal, I think Head Shot Props needs to be removed from this list of vendors. Or at least a warning needs to be posted.
I haven't spoken to anyone that has gotten an order from them in a while. One person told me they were purposely strung along in order to miss the 180 day time frame to file a complaint through PayPal. Thankfully, I kept messaging them nearly daily until I simply asked for an answer: will you be shipping out my helmet, yes or no. A week went by with no answer and so I escalated it. They eventually gave me my money back with no explanation. I was lucky. Some people have been waiting months and have gotten nothing and heard nothing.
The first excuse was something to the effect of "Well.... the pandemic hit us hard. But I'll get a really nice helmet cast for you."
Anyway..... it's unfortunate because there are so few vendors for R1TK armor. I'd avoid this one at all cost if I were you.
-
4
-
-
Ah. Just read everyone's comments. The "approved" bit threw me for a loop so I quit working on it. My fault for not checking earlier. Can't wait to see what wins though. There are some good ones!
Contest closes today so, submit your design and we can figure it all out later.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
I was working on one version, but was reading the requirements again and it's for approved 501st members. I'm not an approved member yet. Bummer.If you are working on a design for the coin competition please remember this closes off on May 1st, you are running low on time to submit your entry. -
So what I've decided to do is use the bicep from the Mudtroopers design and make a jig or guide for those J hooks. It will be something you can print out and use to draw your template. I'm also going to make a backing that can be glued in place to provide a little more support around the hooks.
Just in looking at my biceps, it feels like the cord running through the J hooks might rip through or crack the ABS and I'd expect the fiberglass might feel the same. I really don't see any other alternative than to reinforce this area from the inside.
-
1
-
-
Quote
If anyone wants to try the forearm system, I'll add the little blocks to my drop box for download. If you don't have a 3d printer and still want to try it, just DM me and I can make some pretty quick for you.
I might take you up on that. I got a replacement forearm piece and was considering another way to attach these from our last conversation about using the elastic to keep them closed. Can I use your visual example above as a guide?
-
On 4/20/2021 at 9:56 PM, YaY Pizza said:
Anyone know where to get a set of accurate T tracks? What are they originally supposed to be from?
If you want the sourced T Tracks for a Rogue One style E-11, they supposedly came form here: https://www.tubewaysales.com/cat/plastic-trims-and-miscellaneous-items/plastic-insert-and-t-track/
If you have a 3D printer, you can print your own. I have posted my designs for these based on the sourced T Tracks: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4826975
I also have some other 3D parts specifically for the R1 E-11.
-
Following. I think the fact they are wearing a mixture of armor or buckets both OT and R1 is interesting. You basically can't take a straight R1 and make a remnant kit with it. Great discussion!
-
Sorry to revive and old thread, but I just thought I would mention that I've posted 3D STL files for R1 style T-Tracks here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4826975
They are as close as I can get based on photos and measurements. I've included varying lengths and a small stub part that you can size to your needs. Hope that helps someone.
-
Just curious what you think about Nico's helmet. I bought the STLs for OxProp's helmet and have compared it to Jimi's helmet and they are very close, but the printed one I have is taller just like Nico's. I really like how the OxProps helmet has all the parts in pieces. He also has the eye bump. Not sure if Nico's has all the pieces and the bump.
I may get Nico's as well and print his to give it a try. By the time my build is over, my entire family will have buckets. LOL
-
Wow Jason. Really great work on this. I may have to look into the J hook. What kind of cord is that going through the J hook? Looks like you're using a tab with a hole through it to hold the cord in the shoulder bell. Great work on this! I watched these episodes of the Mandalorian last night with my kids and kept pausing it and they got really annoyed by it. "Daddy why do you keep pausing it!?!?!" "I'm doing research!" Ha ha
-
Thanks but that's the same link that I have in my comment. I'm looking for much closer photos than that. Showing more of the detail. Really interested to see if there are photos of individual pieces not on a display. The reason I am asking is because I've just trimmed a forearm piece incorrectly that will now have to be replaced. I really don't want to keep repeating that mistake, but I've noticed several other places where the armor isn't trimmed clean cut some of the lip (or return) was actually kept on the armor. Mainly the forearm and the shoulder bell. Are their photos of parts individually anywhere?
-
Hi there,
Working on my ROTK build and looking for more reference photos. I've looked through a lot of the builds and there are some good photos there as well. I've also found this: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/28-r1-tk-reference/
Are there other photos somewhere else that I'm missing? It looks like the reference gallery is down or gone.
Working on the forearm, biceps, and shoulder bell right now but I'd love to see some closer up photos of all of the parts if they exist.
Anyone know where these might be?
-
Thank you so much everyone! I can honestly say that I already feel at home and encouraged to really get down to business on my armor and weaponry.
Take care and stay safe all!
TerribleBens R1TK adventure
in Rogue One Build Threads
Posted
Yeah also was looking into the backplate as well. I've got velcro going around the sides and around the back that will keep it in place. But I'm not sure how the backplate will play into all of this. For some reason the belt seems to be much more tedious than I imagined.