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Short4ATrooper

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Posts posted by Short4ATrooper

  2. TK Monkus' RS Prop Masters ANH-S Build Thread (first build)

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    The right forearm looks great!  It may be the camera angle, but the left one doesn't look nearly as round shaped.  If so, you may need to heat bend them a bit** to get the same shape as the right one.  It may also help to use interior cover strips*** that are a bit wider than the outside ones to help retain that shape.  They don't have to be pretty (no one sees them anyway) and they won't affect approval at any level.
     
    REokvBp.jpg     AJsRKMg.jpg   SvuzYpW.jpg
     
    **I suggest the hot water method as opposed to heat guns.  Trust me.
     
    ***When you get to the lower leg armor, I HIGHLY suggest using interior cover strips on the inside of the fronts.  Those areas get a lot of wear and tear from opening/closing them, and having that strip will reinforce the seam.  

    I’d definitely recommend trying the internal
    Cover strips before resorting to hot water. Despite what people who have had success with it may tell you - using hot water to bend the parts is very much a lottery, at least in my experience. I’ve had it work with no issues, and I’ve had it ruin parts completely. T’s very difficult to do with any degree of accuracy and think it should only be suggested as a last resort.

    I had a similar issue with my external cover strips not sticking on the forearms. Fitting internal strips first completely solved the issue.


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  3. TK Monkus' RS Prop Masters ANH-S Build Thread (first build)

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    Thanks Scott, I will definitely add that extra ABS inside. Can I do that at the same time I do the outer cover strip or would you recommend doing them separate?
     
    I also may shave a little bit from that back side and I can maybe cheat that cover strip to straight. That was the only other issue. That back butt joint seems to be at an angle so the cover strip won't really sit straight. Probably my fault as I think that was my first cut and it looks like I cut at a bit of an angle instead of straight.
     
    Thanks,
    M

    Having recently done this with the forearms on my TX, I’d advise doing them separately. It’s incredibly fiddly to try to do both at once. Resist the urge to rush!


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    • Like 1

  4. ESB TK WIP - UKG - first build - hoping for centurian

    in ESB Build Threads

    Posted

    This is my TX kit but it’s exactly the same as the TK.

    If you attach a strip of Velcro vertically on the inside centre of the belt:

    19121fe957aad7fe0b6efddcc6ca7b5d.jpg

    Then a tab on the small rectangle just below the main ab button panel, just out of shot here:

    96d257302dfa7c6b30e7937b9f65dc0a.jpg

    With the strip on the belt running vertically, you can adjust the belt position to the correct placement without having to precisely marry up two tabs of Velcro.


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    • Like 1

  5. TK Monkus' RS Prop Masters ANH-S Build Thread (first build)

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    There’s no one method for trimming return edges that works best. What you’ve done with using a number of different methods is best. For me, I start with the scissors, if I run into areas the scissors can’t reach, don’t try to force them into tight areas - that’s when you get those surface marks - instead, go wider and use the dremel afterwards to work the edge back. Clean everything up with a 120 grit sandpaper, then something a lot finer (400-800) to make the edges super smooth.

    Don’t worry too much about how the top of the biceps look as they’ll be covered by the shoulder blades. That being said, if you want to even up so both sides match, I usually wait until they’re fully constructed as it’s easier to get an even return edge all round if your sanding it as one piece.


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    • Like 1

  8. ESB TK WIP - UKG - first build - hoping for centurian

    in ESB Build Threads

    Posted

    You’re doing it the right way. My sniper knee was tough to get on, it just seemed to be fighting against me in every direction! The key is patience. Leave it clamped for as long as you can and you should be ok. Seems like you’re in the right track if you were able to leave the centre for 72 hours. Same again for the sides and you should be golden!


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    • Like 1

  9. ESB TK WIP - UKG - first build - hoping for centurian

    in ESB Build Threads

    Posted

    I don’t think the sand and score approach is necessarily a ‘must do’ but it’s more of a belt and braces type of thing that should result in a stronger bond if you are having trouble. I have an RWA TK and a TX and it’s what I’ve done with both kits. Ross most likely doesn’t mention it in his videos because he uses a much stronger and less forgiving glue called Stelmax.

    For the shins, if you’re worried about the added stress from opening the backs, I’d add an internal cover strip at the front. It’s what I did with my TK and although I haven’t trooped with it yet, I’ve worn them multiple times for the clearance process and they certainly feel strong and sturdy.


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    • Like 1

  10. ESB TK WIP - UKG - first build - hoping for centurian

    in ESB Build Threads

    Posted

    How long did you leave it for and how did you prepare the surfaces? The new E6000 has...mixed reviews. I use Gorilla Glue, this one:

    f8641e54ded0b2c01378f220a9d1b65f.jpg

    It’s just as forgiving as E6000 and should be tightly bonded after 24 hours.

    When I’m glueing cover strips, I sand the back of the cover strip with 120 as well as the area on the arm/leg piece. I also lightly score the back of the cover strip with a blade. Already the glue evenly on the cover strip and apply a few small beads to the limb. Leave a minute or two before you apply the strip, then leave clamped for a minimum of 24hrs.

    Temperature is also a factor. Make sure it’s not too cold where you are leaving the pieces to go off or it’ll take longer to fully set.


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    • Like 2

  14. WTF TK ANH Stunt Build thread - newbie needs help

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

     
    Thanks! I definitely don't have those L brackets included.  Looks like it was glued directly and fell off in transit.  I also noticed yours doesn't have the two mini barrels right in front of it.  Mine is an ANH e-11.  Is it possible that we have different versions?

    No, mine is also an ANH and has those two barrels (power cylinders) I just haven’t attached them yet.

    0fafb20a3b0bc00f714b1d7281af7794.jpg


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    • Like 2

  19. T21 3D printed build?

    in General Weapons Discussion

    Posted

    Hi. I built a sandtrooper version of the T-21. My build has some reference pics if you are interested. I didn’t print the parts myself but I believe it has a 20% infill. It’s a good idea to up the perimeters as well. I troop with mine with no problems. 
     
     
     

    Thanks very much, this’ll be very useful. Your T21 looks awesome by the way !


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    • Like 1

  20. T21 3D printed build?

    in General Weapons Discussion

    Posted

    Thanks! Well, I searched the weapons section for T-21 and scoured through 3-4 pages of posts. No 3D print builds found so far. I think I might be on my own with this one. But the reference photos of what goes where should be enough to help and I’ll get a WIP going once it arrives too.


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    • Like 1

  23. T21 3D printed build?

    in General Weapons Discussion

    Posted

    Hi all,

     

    Currently building a TX and have a T21 on order from ChrisHullProps. I’m struggling to find any WIPs of a build from 3D printed parts. All I’ve been able to find are either finished blasters applying for clearance or from scratch builds. Is anyone able to point me in the right direction so that I’m not completely clueless when my kit arrives please?

     

     

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