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markgambino

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About markgambino

  • Rank
    Lieutenant

Standard Info

  • Name
    Mark Gambino
  • 501st Unit
    Knightfall

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  1. Ah, thanks. I've seen a number of power cylinder options around, but have been a little confused about the variety and models available. Swapping them out would be an easy job, so once on enlisted I'll add it to my list. Thanks! Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  2. Awesome, thanks for the advice. I got this as a 3D kit from Premier Props, on Etsy. https://etsy.me/35O2nhi I'm actually modifying the scope rail and moving the Hengstler counter forwards to get it to look a little more compact. I could potentially extend the scope rail as well. Thanks again! Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  3. I'm after some feedback on my E-11 - about the coils running from the power cylinders to the Hengstler counter. I've found there are two sightings of this feature in ANH, but the majority of blasters used don't have them. I'm currently modifying a few details on the E-11, so I figure I'll do everything if I need to. Can the coils stay, or should I remove them to reach L2/L3?
  4. That's awesome. I do recall seeing your other comment as well. Thanks for reminding me. Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  5. Thanks for the heads up. This piece was pre-drilled. I'll measure it up and see how it comes in. Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  6. I'm making progress on the thighs now, but have a question about the right thigh ammo pack. It's attached quite firmly, but still moves and bit. Is there a preferred way of fastening this to the thigh? Can I just use a dab of E6000? Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  7. I did as@gmrhodes13 suggests here: glued small tabs inside the edges. It worked a treat. However, to allow for the tension between pieces, I also glued internal strips to get the thighs together first, then the cover strips, then the inside tab to bring the edges together, before finally applying ABS paste. Bear in mind, if you have mobility cuts on the rear, this will remove some of the misaligned edges anyway, so don't stress too much. I did this one strip at a time and waited two days for the E6000 to cure to ensure the bond would take the tension of the next stage. So, glue one internal strip to each half, wait two days; now glue both sides together, one side at a time to allow for tension, wait two days between each side; then glue cover strips outside, wait two days; now glue the tab on the inside edge to align the edges - the thigh joins should be rock solid by now and take the strain of the edge being clamped to bring them together. All up, it has taken me weeks to build the thighs, but I know they are rock solid. Here's the tab I glued inside the thigh edge. I used two strong clamps and kept them on for two days while it cured. Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  8. CHALLENGE ACCEPTED! Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  9. Is it going too far to import dust from Tunisia for that "authentic" look? Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  10. Ha! Well, I did see a job vacancy at MEPD... Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  11. A recent Amazon purchase arrived today, so now I have something to read while I wait for the ABS paste to melt. Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  12. Do the handguards a have canvas embedded in the latex? Are they the AP latex handguards or Joseph's? The ones (Joseph's) I glued last week with Zap-RT have canvas stuck to the latex and adhered to my gloves ok (see pics), but I don't know if RT will adhere directly to latex (I got both ABS and latex handguards with the AP kit). I also did a repair job with a little white silicon glue on another set of gloves where the handguard (Joseph's) had lifted from the canvas, but the canvas was still stuck to the glove (with RT), which worked well. Not sure if any of this helps, but it seems to be a matter of using a 'middle-man' between the latex handguard and the glove, with potentially two different glues. Sent from my Imperial Communicator
  13. Speaking of the garter, here's the design I put together. I've used 50mm nylon, elastic and velcro to make straps that can adjust at the top (velcro), stretch a little in the middle and then fix to the inside top of the thighs with snaps. The belt is a military-style web belt off eBay. Finished strap at the top; cut pieces at the bottom ready to sew. Both straps sewn and ready to fit. Fitted to the belt. The final belt and straps, with snaps fitted and snap plates ready to glue inside thighs.
  14. It feels like I'm on the home straight now. Gluing the thighs is taking a little time, owing to the differences in edges between each half. I had to rip off a cover strip and re-glue because it rode up slightly, despite all the magnets and clamps - SERENITY NOW! I've marked up the tops of the thighs with trim marks, in line with ANH stunt gloriously random thigh tops, but I'll do a fit test with the garter I made before making any cuts. In the meantime, I've glued the bra hook elastics into the grieves. I thought I'd do a strength test first on three glues to work out the best for the job. I figure the elastics will be fine once the grieves are on, but will stretch a lot when fitting and taking off. I glued elastic to a piece of ABS scrap with: contact adhesive (Kwik Grip, in Australia), Zap-RT glue (a CA gluer made for rubber tyres) and E6000. You'll never guess what happened next! After two days of curing... the winner is Zap-RT! The E6000 came off with a generous tug; the contact adhesive took more force to pull away; but by far the Zap-RT took some real force to remove - more than I would ever need to pull the elastic and fix the hook in place. Incidentally, I used the Zap-RT last week to make some new gloves (because why not) and the outcome is great I have another pair of Joseph's hand guards on the first set of gloves I made, but the latex guard started to lift (the fabric remained stuck to the glove with RT). A few dabs of white silicon and the guard is now sealed closed again.
  15. For the glory of the Empire! Sent from my Imperial Communicator
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