The Captain
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Posts posted by The Captain
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TK-17042 reporting in from the Southern California Garrison.
Legion Page: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=28552
Thank you!
- WT
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11 hours ago, Commander Gree said:
head scratcher, you say in the OP you don't want to post your face till your approved. but then say you cant because of your job. Might make trooping kind of hard because people take photos behind the scenes and post them. kinda curious as to what you do for a living that would require you not to be on the internet. are you wanted by the empire and trying to hide among us???
It just makes things kinda hard after having an issue. Got followed around for about a year. It's not a hard set "show your face and you're fired", but rather "please don't make it easy for someone to track you". Once I officially become a member, I can explain it to them as a "I'm in a non-profit" so I'll get more leeway. But even then, I don 't have any social media, and I try to be hard to recognize on anything I do post.
Believe me, its a huge pain. If I could, I wouldn't bother.
20 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:You have to fill out the 501st online application as well as submit photos to your garrison membership liaison. Depends how busy your GML is as to how long the approval process takes, wouldn’t hurt to flick him/her an email just to check if they have everything required to proceed.
Yup, I followed the page my garrison has, and they said to fill out the form and immediately send the pictures to the GML email address they had posted. I did both of those 12 days ago, so I was just wondering if any else had to wait a similarly long time. On the site it says that it can take up to three weeks, so I guess I'll wait until that time before emailing them again.
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On 7/21/2018 at 10:54 AM, menschie said:
Looking good chief! You should be proud!
Just out of curiosity, why did you blur your face? Plausible deniability?
Just a thing with my job. I need to try and not post my face/voice online if possible, so I'm only sending the unedited ones to my GML.
Speaking of which, I submitted my application 12 days ago, but haven't heard back (save the auto-reply email from the 501st website). Should I send a "what's up" email, or wait the full 3 weeks before checking in again?
- The Captain
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2 minutes ago, Commander Gree said:
If you can get that left clip closer then the better.
I don't know if you can see it well, but the metal is a little rolled up on the edges. At that angle, it makes it look like more of a gap than it really is. I'll take a more straight-on shot when I go for L2/L3, so it's not as misleading. Thanks for the heads up!
- The Captain
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On 7/7/2018 at 2:40 PM, The Captain said:
2nd Photo Set!
Front
Back
Right
Left
New photos with the basic approval stuff fixed. (Don't know why the first one is yellow ish) Please tell me what you think!
- The Captain
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4 hours ago, Commander Gree said:
the TD (thermal Detonator) photo should actually be showing the connections of the clips to the TD, ie the screws used. the should be pan head screws that are black/painted. the placement of the clips looks to be right from what I can see, but that underside photo will be key for that portion of the approval (again this is for L2/L3).
Like this?
- The Captain
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3 hours ago, Frank75139 said:
Basically make sure your cover strips are in a straight line.
Also if your thighs are strapped to your ab it’s gonna pull your ab down. Trust me I’m fixing that problem as we speak. I have (soon to be had) mine down that way.
As for the knee cutout here is a pic of my armor knee cut, you can see the trim job on the lower half of the thigh. It helps with walking and reduces armor bites. If your not having problems then you can always wait on that. I’ve gotten a few troops in and that’s why you start feeling the bites and what not. I literally went to work the day after my first troop and had huge bruises on the inside of my elbows. Everyone kept asking what happened.I actually had problems with my ab plate riding too high, and the thigh straps fixed that. Weird, huh?
As for the knee cut, I definitely will keep that in mind, but I'll wait until after my first troop. If it doesn't cause me issues, I think I'd rather avoid doing it. Thanks for the image though!
Thigh fixes are curing right now, so everything should be good to go tomorrow for new photos!
- The Captain
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Oh, I do have one extra question; How does the belt look? L3 ok?
Like I said in the info sheet, it is home-made so I wanted to check and make sure it was acceptable. I know it's fine for basic, but so was the super-flimsy Anovos belt from the stuff I was reading.
My main concerns are that it is still flimsy in the back (where the velcro pads are cause I had to sew those on) and that the internal folds of the canvas are slightly visible. Will this cause any concerns for L3 later on in my 501st career?
Thanks!
- The Captain
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17 hours ago, CableGuy said:
Once you have your approval, you’ll have to then start a separate EIB application thread for L2. As you say, you’ve clearly built your kit with higher levels and I’ve no doubt that you’ll be able to reach them, however they have to come one step at a time, and in order.
Sounds like a plan! I was wondering if there was any sort of "must be a legion member for 6+ months" or anything like that, but it sounds like its just getting the armor approved first.
14 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:I would also take some paint to the frown points and open up those teeth a bit more:
Yup! I mentioned the teeth in my notes (I have a set of files on the way) but I was really worried about the extra frown paint. I know it's not required for basic, but I assume L3 will want this, yes? The ridges lose most of their depth at the edges, so I'm afraid I won't know where to stop on this particular helmet. I'll most likely bring it to an armor party so that I can have a little help and side-by-side comparison.
14 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:Your large ab button plate is spot-on, but the smaller 4 button one needs to be trimmed at some point. It should be fairly easy to get it off with an exacto knife and a bit of patience, but it should look like the one below. (Note that it is flat and has square corners)
Hadn't caught that! I did take all of the return edge off (the backside of that plate is perfectly flat) but it appears that the Anovos pull is more rounded than original. I'm assuming that I can shave off 1-2mm worth from each side and end up with something more squared off. Again, maybe an armor party thing, so I can side-by-side compare.
12 hours ago, Frank75139 said:This is what I got shot down for. I highlighted your pic. It’s a simple fix but even the slightest misalignment and I’d got told to redo pics. Make sure it’s on straight line.
Now I get what you were saying! Sadly I can't make those bottom cuffs of the thighs any smaller because of how my leg has to fit in and how flat they are in the back, but I did just try something. My thighs connect via straps from my Ab/cod piece, and this seems to be why they pull in like that. I added a pad to the outermost sides of the internal thighs, so that it pulls it away from my knees. This seems to get it to line up much better. When I post my "Take 2" pics, I'll showcase that in detail. Looks like it fixes the problem though. If not enough, I can run a second set of straps from the outermost sides which should even up the pull.
11 hours ago, lucnak said:Yes, for the thigh, just glue in some scrap and then fill with ABS paste. The other option is cutting out the knees for mobility, which you might need to do anyway. Saves you the trouble.
Cutting out the knees? I didn't know that was allowed! Do you have any photos of other Anovos sets which have been modified for that? I'm going to stick to the scrap and fill for know, because my mobility was pretty good. But that sounds a lot easier....
Thanks for all of the help guys! Again, second set of photos to come probably tomorrow or Thursday!
- The Captain
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Sorry for not responding right away! Got busy after posting. So...
On 7/7/2018 at 4:19 PM, Frank75139 said:Looks like your aware of all of the issues and fixed most of them already. As for the photo submission. I got shot down for things like pieces not sitting properly. I think all garrisons are different but in mine it had to be perfect.
Ouch. So, besides the aforementioned back plate and shin, does everything else appear to fit correctly? You specifically mentioned thighs, were mine OK? (besides the back gap)
13 hours ago, lucnak said:I think that the only thing that will hold you back from the basic is the left shin being open. You'll need a solid photo of you wearing it correctly, otherwise your GML will be unable to verify that it does close and look correct on you. The main things that stood out to me are the shin (as mentioned), your back plate/kidney being a bit crooked, and the gap at the back of your left thigh. I'd prioritize these for your fixes/adjustments.
Yup, I figured these issues would render the photos unusable. Shin is an easy fix, and I already adjusted the back plate to sit better. Do you think that this would be enough? What would you suggest for the back of the thigh? I was looking at just running a strip on the inside of that ridge to close it until I can get some ABS paste in there to fully seal it off.
On 7/7/2018 at 11:52 PM, CableGuy said:Looks like you’re well on track to basic. If you’d like some tips on L2 and L3, let us know.
Actually, I was looking through the L2 definition on the costuming database, and it appears to me (after I get my fitment/spacing issues fixed) that I would qualify. I know I didn't post images showing off everything in detail, but when I do my second set I'll include those shots. Would it be possible to go straight to L2 after approval, or is there a waiting period?
New set of pics coming probably Wednesday/Thursday
Thanks!
- The Captain
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1. First/last name: Winston Thompson
2. Future Garrison/Squad/Outpost or local area: Southern California Garrison
3. Armor maker: Anovos
4. Helmet maker: Anovos
5. Cloth belt maker: Home-made
6. Neck seal maker: Stormtrooperundersuit.com
7. Boot maker: Totally Killer (TK) Boots
9. Blaster maker (if applicable): HFX Productions (Hyperfirm – ANH E-11)
10. Gasket maker (if applicable): N/A
11. Height (optional): 6’ 1”
12. Weight (optional): 195lbs
13. TK type (ANH Stunt/Hero. ESB, ROTJ. TFA etc.): ANH Stunt
14. Name(s) of any Trooper(s) who significantly helped with your build: Joseph (@justjoseph63) for answering my plethora of questions, Tony (@ukswrath) for an awesome Anovos guide!
Photos: (First set. See 2nd set below)
Front
Back
Right Side
Left Side
Ab Close-up
Helmet Front
Helmet Right
Helmet Left
Helmet Back
Extra Photos:
TD Top-down View (Because I know the positioning has come up in the past on these posts)
E-11 Left
E-11 Right
Headshot (Blurred because I don't want to include my face until I get approved. Won't blur for actual submission)
Action Pose
Things I already know will cause concerns or are issues for L2/L3:
Helmet Frown needs less return edge between teeth, and maybe slightly less on left eye.
Helmet ears are R1 style (ridge around the circular part)
Back Plate came a little loose on the left side, creating a gap. (Already fixed, but not until after photos. Will this create basic approval problems if I still use this photo?)
Left thigh has gap on back-side at bottom. (trimmed to be a bit larger, haven't yet shimmed the bottom edge/ridge)
Left side kidney-to-ab strapping popped when I raised my arm, hence the gap you can see almost covered by the belt. This is not normal, but I know that L3 will want to see a cleaner, more even connection there. Will the current gap cause basic approval problems if I use this photo?
The neck seal appears to flare out at the top. This is actually a cover for my upper neck+chin, which I slipped down for the headshot. Not actually a problem, just looks a little bad in this photo.
My left shin came undone. Whoops. Will this photo cause basic approval problems?
I know some of these points are in the "Well you could've just fixed those as you were taking pictures" category, as well as adjusting the lighting/background. But my "helpers" weren't very helpful...
Looking forwards to your feedback!
- The Captain
2nd Photo Set!
Front
Back
Right
Left
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7 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:
When you say "over the edge of the bottom button on the plate", did you mean the bottom of the button? That is fine, and much better than sitting too low, (you should not be able to see the lower part of the plate itself).
It was covering about half of the button. I know it's accepted, but I just didn't want to cover up any. I adjusted it so it sits right at the base of the button + ridged section on the plate (and not at the bottom of the plate itself).
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18 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:
That won't affect approval at all, Winston, as that is one of the area that cannot be seen.
Ok then. Thanks so much for all of your help, it's made things much easier on me.
I got my better cloth (with plastic inside) belt today, and have been working on drilling/gluing. I'll post pictures tomorrow when I am done, so that I can make one last verification for everything.
- The Captain
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1 hour ago, justjoseph63 said:
Hi Winston! Some great questions there, and I will try to help you out.
"So if any of you out there do Centurion inspections and have any input, it would be greatly appreciated!"
Along with Tony (ukswrath) I am one of the Deployment Officers who approve EI and Centurion levels.
First off: Thank you so much! I definitely wanted to get the info "straight from the horse's mouth" if possible, hence my comment at the end there.
1 hour ago, justjoseph63 said:Crotch strap- The one Anovos supplies (1 inch black elastic) is what you will need, so no problems there. As for snaps, any snap that can be seen cannot have paint on it, and must be silver/chrome/nickel in color.
Great! Being that the black snap heads will be between me and the armor, it sounds like I don't need to replace them with chrome ones (as you can't see them)
1 hour ago, justjoseph63 said:Belt- The type of fastener does not have to be pop rivets. I have seen people use split rivets, Chicago screws, etc. Since the head is covered by the square button covers and cannot be seen it will not affect approval, although pop rivets work really well. Does someone in your Garrison have a pop rivet fastener you could borrow?
Being that I have a ton extra, I'm probably going to go with heavy-duty split rivets or Chicago screws then. As for borrowing a tool, I mostly wanted to avoid pop rivets because I wanted something easier to undo/replace, as well as that I'm putting all of this together tomorrow (trying to be done on Sunday). Due to the time crunch, I didn't ask around. But I'll definitely keep that in mind for any other tool issues I might have going forwards!
One additional question: To avoid scratches on the ab/cod plate, I was going to put a cover over the back side of the belt rivets. Like a spot of glue, or even a little piece of fabric. Being that it will be on the inside of the belt (not seen), will that affect L3 approval?
1 hour ago, Commander Gree said:You do not need rivets to attach your drop boxes. Many of us just make a loop of white elastic and glue it directly to them. BUT... remember to make sure that the tops of the boxes touch the bottom of the belt. There should be no gap. Also, for level 3 the outer edges must align with the outer edge of the ABS belt.
Fantastic! And I am very familiar with the drop box placement. I already have everything measured out, I just wanted to wait till I heard back!
Thanks again for your help!
- The Captain
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Hey guys! I am about to wrap up my ANH Stunt armor and have a few questions to ask regarding if certain rivet/snap types are required for centurion. I have an Anovos kit, which comes with instructions that I know aren't L3 ready (I'm trying to follow Ukswrath's guide), but most of the materials are correct. I would like to make an outwardly accurate costume, but I'm only shooting for L3 Centurion approval and not going above-and-beyond to make it as similar to the originals as possible.
Crotch Strap:
Anovos provides a strip of elastic with two snaps on the end; female, popper type with a black cap. To install it, there's a single split rivet (for the codpiece) and two male snaps (for the butt plate). I know that the split rivet and two males snaps are L3 correct, but I was wondering if the elastic strip to connect the two had any special requirements, and if the number of female snaps or that they have a black heads/caps would be an issue. (Other L3 build threads I have seen always show the crotch strap with a single female snap and it's fully silver/metallic)
Belt:
For the belt kit Anovos provides three pop rivets to connect the plastic ammo belt to the cloth belt (to be covered by the three square button pieces). I don't have a pop rivet gun, and would really like to not have to buy one just to do three rivets. Are pop rivets required for L3, or do any similarly-sized rivets work here?
Additionally, Anovos did not provide any rivets for the ammo drop boxes. Their instructions say to simply glue the white elastic to the backs of the boxes, but most threads I see use more pop rivets (which I would like to avoid). The CRL doesn't specify how the elastic straps are attached to the boxes, but will simply gluing the straps on cause an issue when going for L3?
Thanks for any help you can give. I know that the CRL doesn't specify on most of this, but I also know that Centurion inspections can go a little beyond what the CRL specifies (Like how I have to replace the Anovos cloth belt because it is flimsy, or adjusting how the armor sits). So if any of you out there do Centurion inspections and have any input, it would be greatly appreciated!
- The Captain
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17 hours ago, SlyFox740 said:
Yes they very different as Daetrin said, in fact he has personally put me in charge of the Rogue One E-11 Blaster Reference if you go here; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41271-rogue-one-e-11-blaster-reference/
The R1 BlasTech E-11 is different than the ANH variant in almost every aspect of the blaster big or small.
Even the DLT-19 has the new Flashlight installed so to answer your question yes the other blasters are in fact different too.
I have been writing an optional accessory template to contribute to this CRL for the E-11 blaster, as well as an optional accessory for the Crystal Patrol Duty packs.
Ah ha! I knew someone had to be working on it.
Ok, so we all know of the E-11 from the May Newsletter, and all thanks to SlyFox740 for the upcoming accessory template. You guys have pointed out the DLT-19 has a new version too, which is good.
On 7/17/2017 at 6:36 AM, cjkirk11 said:I can't tell any differences on the T-21 but I could be wrong.
This is actually the one I was most interested in, but it's not exactly prominent in the show. Well see how the discussion develops, as I doubt they changed the other two without changing some aspect, even a small one, of the T-21.
So then, the question becomes how are they integrated into the CRL?
On 7/14/2017 at 8:29 PM, Par_ said:I think for basic is where the ANH blaster option would lie, but not any higher.
I second this concept, but do we want to apply it to all of them? Have all OT style blasters (E-11, DLT-19, and T-21) be allowed for basic entry, but RO versions required for EIB and Centurion?
Thoughts?
- The Captain
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I know there was the huge discussion over the new E-11's, but has there been any discussion of the other blasters? Are they the same as their OT counterparts? I would think the RO versions are at least slightly different.
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3 hours ago, Par_ said:
Then again, the Hero suit had the grappling hook accessory, when all the other stunts had the basic belt without it
I agree with the points that the stunt armor's missing the thermal detonator is just a matter of leaving out the accessory for the stunts, but I think it could be kind of nice to not have one as an option. But it is kind of a key element of a Stormtrooper.
In regards to the pack/pauldron option, it's been decided that MEPD will take both versions, but all the other TK's have those blasters with the flashlights. It's a standard issue, not unique to the sand troopers. I would like to see the ANH blaster be an option, considering an option thrown into one of the early CRL suggestions list was an optional holster (which none of the R1TK's have). I think for basic is where the ANH blaster option would lie, but not any higher. Kind of similar to how the ANH TK boots are an option (not many makers make the FOTK boot, and the ones that do are either not sized large enough for us big footers, or take forever to ship).
Yup, hence why I said "special accessories" cause there was the voice comm thingy too!
Didn't know the MEPD was fully decided. Definitely good to know! I wonder how far they gotten with their discussions.....
And yeah, that's basically what I was thinking about the blaster thing. ANH E-11's shouldn't be "banned" from the costume, but just like a Hasbro-blaster conversion, it won't be centurion level.
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2 hours ago, cjkirk11 said:
If we are gonna go down the road of every detail being categorized and determined if it will make it's way into the CRL, we might never get around to having a working copy lol. There are just so many little things. I am all for the idea but I would like to get mine approved sometime this year
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A couple things I want to add to the discussion is that in the scenes where stormtroopers are doing stunts to where they are being flipped or have a chance to land on their backs, they aren't wearing thermal detonators. A really good shot of this is when they are fighting Chirrut on Jedha. So will we have a "stunt version" where the TD is optional?
Also are we going to go into detail as far as pack/pauldron/blaster combos that are acceptable?
Yeah, I understand that it might take longer. But I really don't see it taking too too much longer, with how much has already been pointed out. And you don't technically have to wait for the CRL to be approved either: talk to your garrison and they might work with you to get a base approval until the official word comes out.
The stunt thermal det packs; I think those were mentioned before. Honestly I would just say that, if it's optional, it's only optional for base entry. I really don't see a separate "stunt" CRL happening because it appears to be the only defining difference. It's not like the costumes are constructed differently, its just a lack of an accessory. (Compare to ANH Hero/Stunt where there are noticeable helmet changes, in addition to special accessories) Obviously, this is all for just now. If we find enough differences in the future, it might be an option.
And another question I haven't seen fully answered. Yes, eventually there will be distinctions for "pack/pauldron/blaster combos" but there is some debate over which group is doing what. MIPD has wanted to claim one of the trooper variations, and there is some talk a few pages back about it. For right now, here's what I've seen discussed: packs and pauldrons seem to go together, can't have one without the other. Blasters are discussed in the May newsletter, and it looks like there were two versions. With/without flashlights, but the same basic gun build on every one that is extremely close to an ANH E-11. I don't see anyone reasonably banning the use of ANH E-11s for use with this costume, but maybe level 3 will require the RO flashlight E-11 variant?
- The Captain
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1 hour ago, ukswrath said:
I'm all in favor of cataloging every detail, as well as discussing whether certain details actually need to be in a CRL and why. If that discussion is held prior to concreting a CRL as I'm sure it will, then sign me up
Idea: Lets take our current "working CRL" list that I've seen posted a couple of times and just explode it with every individual little detail that we've found. And I mean EVERYTHING. As full and complete as possible, even with (approximated) measurements if we can. Even backpacks and stuff, differences in pauldrons, anything to do with those troopers.
Take that finalized super-specific list and save it, copy it, and only then then work on boiling it down to the necessary CRL details. That'll be where we assign L1, 2, 3 stuff, what details aren't necessary for trooping, what build methods are allowed, add-on and accessory items, etc.
Obviously, we've done some work on CRL levels already, and we should note that and reference it later. (I'm not saying start from scratch) But maybe put any further discussion of how it fits into the CRL on pause until we finish detailing out the full costume? I know we're really close, so there shouldn't be too much left to analyze.
And like I said, its just an idea.
- The Captain
(P.S. - ukswrath, a thousand thanks for your ANOVOS TK guide: it is the biggest help to me for my kit.)
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On 7/11/2017 at 1:16 PM, Par_ said:
Hey Daetrin, I noticed on the shins part that the old method of assembling them is required for level 3. However this is not accurate.
At the top is the trim that runs along it, but there is no seam present directly in the middle. And the shins in the back I'm certain overlap to enclose the wearer's leg.
Yeah, if you look at my pics earlier in the thread, it looks like ALL of the leg armor has perfect seams on the front edges. Even the thighs (Look just above the sniper knee plate) don't have any sort of seam in the bottom edge. Maybe the edge rims are separate pieces as well? (Put on like a cover-strip?)
On 7/12/2017 at 10:26 AM, Par_ said:One final note: In the Level 3 requirement for the Sniper Knee plate, it says it must be lined up with the trim at the top. From my observation of displays, it's not exactly lined up. The "trim" on the knee plate is not as tall as the trim on the shin itself, causing the trim on the shin to stick out a little bit.
I second this. It's visible in the pictures I posted and the ones Par_ linked.
On 7/11/2017 at 2:27 PM, ukswrath said:Yea I totally understand why we would add it but I think there's plenty of other details that would make it almost impossible to convert a OTTK to R1. If we go down this road we might be drawn into adding things like "sharp crisp almost 90 degree eye lids" and/or every other section that has very subtle yet extremely high details because of the manufacturing process. These would be great for even a higher level. Again, just throwing out my thoughts.
YES. I definitely think that we need to be careful. But, I also think that we're doing good by cataloging every detail we come across. We just need to sit down, probably at the end, and separate the items that are CRL worthy versus total accuracy detail. I agree that the eyelid warp thing is probably best left completely out of the CRL, but we should address that its there.
Proof and point: the ANH TK famous bicep thumb print. Nowhere listed in the CRL, not even for centurion. But everyone knows it's there, and is looked for during the extremely high accuracy checks.
- The Captain
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16 hours ago, Par_ said:
Things like the frown being attached separately are more properly fitting of levels 2 and 3 Imo.
Oh, yeah totally! If it even needs to be in there. (I suck at assigning levels of detail to things)
Honestly, the frown being a separate piece can probably be overlooked for the CRL itself, cause the effect can be achieved other ways. It is a good detail for those who want as accurate as possible though. And I have a feeling that the tears being raised is easy enough to do without an added piece, but the important thing is how raised they are.
Maybe say L3 for the raised tears, and just mention that the frown can be a separately attached piece from underneath?
- The Captain
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Hey, I had a few things that I noticed that aren't yet included in the edited CRL on the first page. (Sorry if someone else has pointed these out, I haven't read all 9 pages yet.) (Well I have now, and I struck-out the stuff others have already discussed. Do you think we could get Dark CMF to update the first page with the CRL that Par_ and others have been updating over the last few pages?)
NOTE: All of these photos come gizmodo's article from the Europe Celebration almost exactly one year ago :http://io9.gizmodo.com/the-shiny-new-and-old-stormtroopers-of-rogue-one-1783753515 Being that it was official costumes on display, I figured they worked to show detail. Most all of this can be backed up through some frame-by-frame of the movie itself.
- Tears under the eyes are raised/cutout! It looks almost like the grey section is an attached layer of plastic, with the black lines actually being recesses in that extra layer.
- Frown is recessed to the extreme! It looks like the teeth/frown grey plate is actually attached under the plastic of the helmet, as a separate piece.
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Ear bars are more detailed than listed in CRL. Adding a better reference to give a better description, you can see that the fourth/black bar is actually separately raised from the others.(I saw that this was already pointed out. Still a good reference pic.)
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The Thermal Detonator is colored grey inside the end caps! I actually noticed this while watching the movie, and its really obvious when you go back and watch.(Again, someone pointed this out waay back)
Non CRL Stuff: This photo is great for sizing proportions, and you can see some other details like in the abdomen button plate, a seam on the inside of the boots, and how the drop boxes are flush/equal to the belt boxes.
- Bonus Details! Nothing new here, just some shots of other details. Better look at the elbow ridges, more detail on the cover-strips, and a weird attachment on the left thigh that might hint at how things are attached. Also: Backpack details! The CRL should definitely allow for the various backpacks we see used on the beaches. Maybe a Beach TK CRL that is separate, to include the minor weathering, backpacks, and new E-11s?
That's all I had to include. I know I'm still working on my ANH Stunt TK, but I think that a RO Beach TK might be my next project!
I hope this helps!
- The Captain
The Captain Requesting Pre Approval Review (Anovos)
in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Posted
Good news guys: Just got approved!
I am now TK-17042!
Thanks for all of the help!