hollowbodies

I wouldn't try it if I had an alternate solution at hand... Mineral spirits is pretty easy to find anywhere and it does a good job. ^^ Sent from my LG-M470 using Tapatalk

Sounds good - you can always correct with a toothpick anyways. However, I would not use acetone right on the armor/ABS, as it could damage the plastic. Some mineral spirits works really well for removing the paint safely.

Congratulations on your BBB!!! RS suits a really great. I guess you must be really happy and excited! That's a perfect mindset to look ahead and plan what you'll have to do for reaching EIB and Centurion. And don't hesitate tp ask any questions you want, as we'll all be here to help you along the way if you need! Welcome and good luck on your build mate!

How the hell did I forget your post!? Hehe I'm sorry mister tube stripe sheriff @CableGuy !

There are templates that you can purchase that are really useful and really well made to help you paint the tube stripes and the tears/traps stripes as well. Go take a look at TrooperBay and you'll easily find some : https://trooperbay.com/ . You can also look at this thread, which might help you as well : https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14867-tube-stripe-masking-templates/ .

Looking good - need to glue those square buttons now!

Good luck mate! You'll see, it's sure gonna be a great experience!

Yep, as I said, the front ones need to be the large ones. So if you only got one side with large tabs, keep them!

That sounds like a good plan! However, just make sure that you keep enough so that it still fits you after you removed the sections you wanted to remove. If you're unsure, you better remove less and try it on you and then remove some more again if needed (in some cases, I guess it's better to measure twice and cut twice as well ). Also, when you'll do some fit tests for the shins, make sure to wear your boots to see how it fits with them on! You're off to a good start - keep rocking this!

Looking good! Just like this, I don't know and maybe you already did (not seeing it on the picture), but you can remove the rear big tab from the shoulder bridges, as the ones used in the movies mostly had only a bigger tab on the front. Just saying just in case ... good job though! Note that the removal of the rear big tab is optional - if you want to keep it, it's fine and should not block you from higher levels of approval! ^^

Yes, you should be perfectly fine. Nothing is mentioned about the biceps hooks in the CRL. Plus, I think most stunt suits used in the movie didn't have any biceps hooks. So as long as you stuff lines up right and is positioned correctly using the shoulder bells elastic (required) and the snap connecting the bicep and the bell, you should not have to worry at all. ^^

The calves return edges do not necessarily need to be perfectly even, as long as both sides are covered by a proper-width cover strip (usually 20mm wide for the front of the shins). As for the biceps, they look like they could already fit under the shoulder bells if you just "open" the bells a little bit. I will also help to hold the biceps parts higher if they are tight inside the shoulder bells. However, you can probably still remove a bit from the biceps if you want, as long as you keep a good width for your cover strips. The back and kidney plates should be connected and held close from each other by the inner strapping that you will make inside the armor. You can remove a bit of the return edge, but leaving a little return edge on those body parts leave a better finish and overall look in my opinion. Good job on the paint and the bucket - that's a huge part of the build that is done when you have a finished bucket! Just like this, did you leave approximately the width of a pencil between the tube stripes and the "side" of the face? Just asking because, on one of the pics, the white space looks a bit wide. Probably just the angle of the pic though - and it should not be much of a big deal! Keep up the good work!

Good progress, mate! Your shins don't look that bad. Just cut some from the back to make them fit, add cover strips and it'll be nice! As for the arms, the pieces look good together. Maybe try to bring your biceps a bit higher and it will be even better!

That sounds good; the less gap there is the better ! Sent from my LG-M470 using Tapatalk

The rivets need to be present and in good position (able to be seen from the outside and all according to the CRL), but on the inside, you can do what you want. Personally, I've seen different people do different things that worked for them without much problems, so I guess find something that works for you and you should be fine... You can also look at many of the great build threads that exist around here as well - that might help you define what you want or give you some great ideas! Sent from my LG-M470 using Tapatalk

Also, for the sniper knee, try to glue one side at a time. Start with one side (I think I started with the front) and, as others said, let it dry long enough (more is better than not enough). After that, positon one other side as desired and clamp it/hold it in place as well as possible and glue it. After one side is done drying, it should generally stay in place when you do the other sides. Also, don't hesitate putting way more glue than needed so that it gets fixed really well. You can always remove the excess glue once it has dried, so that's not a problem. Keep up the good work - the sniper knee is always a difficult part ! ;P Sent from my LG-M470 using Tapatalk

Looks good! Don't forget to paint the screws in white, too! Sent from my LG-M470 using Tapatalk

Congratulations on your approval and good luck on EIB and Centurion!

It's usually different from one trooper to another, so I'd suggest finding something specifically for yourself for better fitment. Try it on yourself and find what works best on you, then measure the distance between the chest and back plates once it is properly positioned. After that, you'll have a pretty good idea of how long your shoulder strapping should be. Also, if you can get help from someone to measure the distance between the pieces while you are wearing them, it makes it way easier to have precise measurements! By the way, nice painting on thos ebuttons!

Personally, I'd keep them together. Plus, even if you separate them, once all suited up, it won't give you that much more freedom to move if they are separated compared to if they are still together. However, the CRL does not mention anything special about having the cod and ab parts together or not, so maybe someone else could chime in on that.

You can go a little bit wider than 15mm for the back cover strips on the forearms. That's what I did on my AP kit - I think I made it 16mm or so. A few millimeters larger at the back don't bother at all as it's not that visible, and personally, I prefer having a cover strip that covers all the ridge rather than having a cover strip that doesn't cover it all. Guess it's still a personnal choice, but you'd be okay with a wider cover strip at the back. On another note, the improtant thing is to keep it as proportional as possible. For example don't go 15mm front and 20mm back - I'd rather go for something like 17mm front and 17mm back or something like that if possible. Anyways, you get the point! Good start by the way - lovely job on that AP kit so far!

Merci! Je suis sûr qu'on va trooper ensemble bientôt!

I don't know if it's like that where you are, but keep in mind that if you order a blaster that is already built, it might sometimes be hard to make it cross the borders and get it to your home. Fortunately, a lot of blaster kits exist that you can order to receive the parts and assemble/build the blaster yourself. I know a lot of people use and love Doopydoos. Or you can check this thread, which has a few other good references too : https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41450-looking-for-a-good-e-11-blaster-kit/ .

As Frank said, the bottom screws will probably bring that all together. A gap may still be present between some parts of the ear and the helmet, but the helmets used in the movie had some gaps too. It's almost impossible to have no gaps at all anywhere from the front and back, but you can check this post that might help you: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/ .

Some people like it high and others keep it almost right over the eyes and that's ok too. Personally, I like it not too high but still with some white showing as Luc mentioned. If what you prefer is just a small gap between the eyes and the brow, go for it. It surely will be okay and still looks real good in my opinion! And great list of mats you posted earlier by the way. This can be really helpful to a lot of newcomers. The more info there is, the better!