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rwmead10

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Posts posted by rwmead10

  1. Thanks for all the advice. Following Scimitar and Mayo’s builds, I made a snap plate template that is 1” X 2”. I marked the holes at the 1/2” mark and the 1.5” mark. Then I cut out the nylon from 2” webbing and used a soldering iron to make the post holes. Then using the Tandy leather line 24 setting tool and my vice anvil, I made 30 base plates.8cHAM4J.jpg

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  2. Quick update: all return edges on the torso pieces are trimmed and ready for sanding. 
    As I begin planning for snap plates, I wondered what most people use for the connector pieces. I have 2” white nylon webbing for the female snap plates and I got 2” elastic for the torso/forearms and 1” for the shoulder bell/biceps. I noticed that the builds I follow have nylon webbing for the torso straps. Which is preferred? 

  3. I was able to bend the sniper knee plate using a hot water bath. I bent the left side up and the right side down in a sort of twisting motion described in other builds. I then clamped the middle and let dry for a few days and glued the sides down. The middle separated a little bit so I had to re-clamp to get it more straight. It isn’t perfect but it turned out better than expected.

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  4. The paint on the TD has finished drying so I began reshaping the clips included in the AP kit. I used paint sticks to keep from pinching them closed and my vise with plastic inserts to bend the clips. Then I used the vise to make a small bend 6mm from the end and then rounded the ends. I attached the clips to position the control panel And glued it on. I added a before and after comparison and the final products.
     

    I am thinking of using loctite on the screws so they don’t back out after I glue on the end caps. I don’t want the clips to come off and have to cut the end cap off in the future. 
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  5. I taped off the areas of the TD that will be glued and brush painted with Humbrol #5 Dark Admiralty Grey (same as the teeth and traps on the helmet). It took two coats and should be ready for final assembly tomorrow. Also I drilled some paint sticks with a 9/64” drill bit to hold the 6-32 x 1/2” pan head screws and paint them black. I tested both Humbrol #21 gloss black and #85 satin black and they look very close. I will probably go with the satin since it isn’t quite as shiny. I had to buy a bag of 100 so if anyone needs TD screws let me know.

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  6. I am using the AP TD clips shown below. I will be rounding the edges and bending the ends slightly to make it easier to get on and off. I think I am going to leave the length since it is the the exact width of the belt and very secure and doesn’t show when on the belt. Welcome to suggestions on that point because I know the screen used TDs were even with the end of the tube. 
     

    I was planning on using humbrol dark admiral grey the same as the teeth and traps.

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  7. I oriented the buttons and magnets how they will end up and marked with a sharpie on the side that would be glued to make sure they were oriented correctly. I glued the magnets in the cover strip, added the magnet buttons and another magnet on top of that on the outer side for strength. The magnets were moving when the hole strip was over them so I am letting it glue in this position for 16 hours, realign and then cure for an additional day or two.

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  8. Calf cover strips are done. However it looks like the cover strip straightened out the outer side of the left calf and it is under some tension to close. I will need to give it another hot water bath to get a better curve to ease any stress on the magnets. I am giving the glue ample time to cure to avoid any issues. 
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  9. I marked the holes on the inner strip side and used a dremel to sand out the holes to match the inner strip. I used a small cone sanding attachment to make room for the small sanding drum to even it out. Then, following cricket’s tutorial, I lined up the other side and taped and used magnets to keep it closed. Then, with them still held closed, I used the same two step process to sand out the other side.

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    • Like 2
  10. 6 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

    Always best to check the gallery sections, CRL is approximate measurements, just because a maker has mold lines does not make it correct

    • Measurements given in this document are intended to be approximate and generalized; not criteria for approval.

    CRL image is a guide, we try to give screen references when giving feedback on builds as you may be aiming for L3 

     

    Makes sense to me and I am trying for the highest level possible. Thanks for the feedback. I will make the appropriate adjustments to the TD. It looks like I may need to bring my rivet hole marks further in from the edge of the ammo pack.

    • Like 1
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