[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

First suit up of the legs. There are a lot of sharp edges and pinch points, mobility cuts are needed. I may need to make the thighs bigger so they go higher. Am I on the right track?

 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

I finished the garter belt straps. I also created some boot straps to hold them closed, inspired by the company boot snakes. Since my boots are size 13, the tops are too wide for the shin armor to fit over. This helps but I will need to reshape the right shin because it will not fully close.

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

I found a belt on Amazon and am waiting for the Velcro and straps to come in to make the thigh garter. While I wait I glued the snap plates 2 inches from the top of the thighs.

WOLF TACTICAL Heavy Duty Simple... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BKTXXN1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

Moving really delays hobbies.

 

I finally got my build out and made some progress. Following Mayo’s AP build, I made 4 plates to reinforce the shoulder elastic. These are 2” x 1” and the holes for the snaps are a 5/32” drill bit. Then I used a 13/64” drill bit to make the snap sit a little more flush. My chest and backplate are about 3.5” inches apart at the shoulder. I glued the plates into the elastic and clamped to dry.

 

 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

More progress. I used the back plate and butt plate to line up the snaps on the kidney. Also glued the snap plates for the shoulder bells. 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

I guess I am rusty. After months of researching the measurements for the butt plate male snaps, I measured 5/8” and 1 3/8” and centered the holes. If you can see from my picture, I actually measured 1 3/16” which put the holes too close together...something i didn’t notice until after drilling the holes. After drilling the correct hole, you could see light through the extra hole that wasn't covered by the snap. So I got a leather punch, punched an ABS plug and used the snap to keep it in place. The process was infinitely more frustrating than that. Hopefully this passes approvals. 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

Well I’m back. Life has been crazy since my last post.

 

On with the torso assembly. I cut some strips to help in gluing the snap plates. I am starting the strapping on the chest, back plate and shoulders.

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

I splurged and got a Quest Designs E-11 to upgrade my hasbro conversion. Does anyone know where to get the correct sized spring to add?

 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

6 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Looks great, I cut a lot of thin pieces of ABS offcuts to lay on both sides of the nylon when gluing, saves a lot of clamps and magnets.

Do you have a picture of this?

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

Thanks for all the advice. Following Scimitar and Mayo’s builds, I made a snap plate template that is 1” X 2”. I marked the holes at the 1/2” mark and the 1.5” mark. Then I cut out the nylon from 2” webbing and used a soldering iron to make the post holes. Then using the Tandy leather line 24 setting tool and my vice anvil, I made 30 base plates.

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

I am planning on using the wingnut65 strapping diagram below I pulled from white armor.net. Do most people only use 2 straps for the ab/chest and back/kidney attachments? I’ve also seen 3 used.

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

Quick update: all return edges on the torso pieces are trimmed and ready for sanding. 
As I begin planning for snap plates, I wondered what most people use for the connector pieces. I have 2” white nylon webbing for the female snap plates and I got 2” elastic for the torso/forearms and 1” for the shoulder bell/biceps. I noticed that the builds I follow have nylon webbing for the torso straps. Which is preferred? 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

23 hours ago, Sly11 said:

I would certainly leave some return edge, I have just on 4mm on chest/ab and back/kidney areas.
 

Do you have any issues with overlap on the back/kidney/rear pieces with 5mm return edge? I wasn’t planning on trimming them but it would help get me closer to movie size.

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

24 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I left some for strength 

How much? 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

On to the torso! I am leaning towards removing all of the return edge on the top area if the abdomen. Is this recommended? Want to check before I make the cut.

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

30 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Definitely looks quite dark, but if it's the same grey as the teeth and traps you should be ok. Nice work

 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

I was able to bend the sniper knee plate using a hot water bath. I bent the left side up and the right side down in a sort of twisting motion described in other builds. I then clamped the middle and let dry for a few days and glued the sides down. The middle separated a little bit so I had to re-clamp to get it more straight. It isn’t perfect but it turned out better than expected.

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

The TD caps are on so tight I decided not to glue them. Hopefully that works out ok and I don’t lose one. The color is dark admiralty grey and is lighter in person.

 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

The paint on the TD has finished drying so I began reshaping the clips included in the AP kit. I used paint sticks to keep from pinching them closed and my vise with plastic inserts to bend the clips. Then I used the vise to make a small bend 6mm from the end and then rounded the ends. I attached the clips to position the control panel And glued it on. I added a before and after comparison and the final products.
 

I am thinking of using loctite on the screws so they don’t back out after I glue on the end caps. I don’t want the clips to come off and have to cut the end cap off in the future. 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

Shins are done! The left had a little gap but both have strong connections and don’t come apart. Next up the dreaded sniper knee plate. 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

I attached the ammo pack to the right thigh. I centered the ammo pack and each side is 17mm from the back edge. Just need to add the white paint to the rivet heads.

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

After a few magnets being re-glued for better alignment, I glued the button covers on and the shins are drying. There is a small area on the left shin that I probably need to hit with a heat gun to bend closer but I will see how they fit first. 

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

I taped off the areas of the TD that will be glued and brush painted with Humbrol #5 Dark Admiralty Grey (same as the teeth and traps on the helmet). It took two coats and should be ready for final assembly tomorrow. Also I drilled some paint sticks with a 9/64” drill bit to hold the 6-32 x 1/2” pan head screws and paint them black. I tested both Humbrol #21 gloss black and #85 satin black and they look very close. I will probably go with the satin since it isn’t quite as shiny. I had to buy a bag of 100 so if anyone needs TD screws let me know.

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

I am using the AP TD clips shown below. I will be rounding the edges and bending the ends slightly to make it easier to get on and off. I think I am going to leave the length since it is the the exact width of the belt and very secure and doesn’t show when on the belt. Welcome to suggestions on that point because I know the screen used TDs were even with the end of the tube. 
 

I was planning on using humbrol dark admiral grey the same as the teeth and traps.

[Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build]

Trimmed the thermal detonator caps, panel and overall length to more accurate dimensions. It’s about 1/16” under 7 1/4” but it will have to do. Will drill holes for mounting the clips and begin painting.