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kevin926

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Posts posted by kevin926

  1. If you buy real springs from Apex, you'll have enough spring for two or possibly three blasters because you'll need to cut the springs down to reduce the amount of force they place on resin parts. I'd grab the muzzle screws too - last time I checked, they were only $2 and the cross hatch pattern is unlike anything you'll find at a hardware store.

     

    Great build! That folding stock looks totally legit!!!

    Thanks Aaron, I actually have the real muzzle screws from Apex already. I bought them when I got the real handle grip. Also bought the grip screw that goes on the bottom. I will wait until I get my bolt and charging handle from Dday and see how it goes before I make any decisions with the spring. I have already been strongly referencing TJAYs bolt assembly to help guide me through that step. Question. What is the Guage of the wire used to make the spring. Don't forget, I also bought your spring cup that will be utilized here as well.
  2. First coat of paint on the aluminum scratch build. Now its really starting to look like something.

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    next step is to start beating up some parts of the paint before I spray on the wrinkle paint. I want it to have that repainted look. I have 3 coats plus a clear coat of primer on it now so it should have enough depth in the paint. 

     

    I also just ordered a resin bolt and charging handle for Dday. I am seriously considering buying the spring set up from Apex.

    • Like 1
  3. Kevin, that is a very impressive scratch build.

     

    Now paint it, paint it, paint it! :lol:

    Thank you. Almost there but still need to finish the body work and cleaning. Once I mounted the site guard, the kid in me had to put it all together and play. Alot of filing and filling before the base coat can go on. The bayonet lug is next and I figure I can finish the bolt assembly and trigger assembly while the base coat is healing to full strength. The longer the paint sits, the better off you are.
  4. Somewhat of a mile stone for me. Basically finished the base sterling scratch build. All hand made with the exception of Aarons muzzle, end cap and barrel. Themainthesuitcase 3d site and catch release.The grip is a real sterling part from apex,  Gazmosis magazine is just sitting inside the holder for looks and not attached just yet. I plan on using a magnet to hold it like most builds. Also, the pins to hold the stock in place haven't been cut down yet so they are sticking out.

     

    Just need to make the bayonet and inner bolt. The trigger isn't shown, but its almost complete.

     

    Thank you everyone for the feedback, encouragement and guidance. This is a credit to all of you. This is a fun feeling..

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    Aaron aka usaeatt2  covered my back as well as my front

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    • Like 1
  5. I just finished with my end cap catch. It seems to be a trouble area for builders and it was with my first effort as well. I had to remake it. 2nd time was the charm. Also attached my rear site and end cap release. Almost finished with the aluminum scratch build. Just need to make the bayonet lug as well as mount my front site.

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    Once I finish the base sterling, I will finish up the resin/pvc build. The resin build wont really get anymore mods. I will continue to detail it with metal screws, rods or pins, but no more moving parts. Like I mentioned earlier, this is for my son who is on the spectrum with autism so he will try to figure this out and the more that moves, the more that will break.

    Trying to make it look as nice as possible and sturdy as possible. Then I will begin the finish prep for both builds. I will most likely base coat the aluminum before I finish with the add ons to make it the E11 and let it sit for some time to let the finish harden as much as possible. My plan is to shoot a clear primer over the aluminum and base coat with satin black before I use the wrinkle paint so I can chip up the base coat to give that repainted look once the top coat goes on. Still a long ways off but getting closer.

    • Like 1
  6. 100% screen accurate is so hard and also next to impossible. There are so many variations of these props to begin with. I guess if I were to obtain a real Sterling along with m38, hengstler eagle than I would keep going and get the most accurate t tracks proven to be so. Most of us are building resin kits anyway. Others are scratch building or toy modifying. Very few have gone all the way with 100% real parts. And besides that, how can we build 100% accurate power cylinders. These were a made part to begin with. A real mpp or graflex can be another story but still varies.

  7. Sorry for the lack of words for definition, I worked on these small parts a little each night last week. I didn't do anything today or yesterday due to mothers day weekend. (Got to take care of mom and my wife) My next step will have to be working on the mounts for the rear end cap so I don't accidentally place the rear pieces in the wrong spots. Also shown is another one of themainthesuitcase 3d parts. Finished up my magazine holder as well and attached it.

  8. Now onto the magazine well. I did attempt to make it out of aluminum however, it just looked horrible. I decided to go with stryene instead. I cut out all the pieces and began the assembly. I also made sure it fits Gazmosis replacement magazine.

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    I had some decorative 1/2 mm aluminum sheets I tried to use on my droid build. I wrapped it around my styrene holder to make it stronger and more attractive as well as easier to finish.

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    So far, I like the look of it, but here's where it went sour. I stamped the letters in however being a very thin sheet, it bent more than it defined and it looked terrible.

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    So I hung it up for the night and slept on it. I decided to break off the top and cut out the center. Then I filled it with green stuff and re stamped. It still has to dry and harden before I can sand and see the final results but so far, I like it much better.

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    Any thoughts

    • Like 1
  9. I began working on attaching both folding stocks this weekend. Didn't get as far as I would have liked to, being distracted by the NFL draft, Stanley cup playoffs and daughters soccer game. Oh well, life goes on. Anyway, I found the perfect size pins while looking for carriage bolts at Ace hardware. They are actually rivet pins with a smooth 5mm pin. The pins are too long but easy to cut. I'm using screws for now to hold the stock in place, but that was just to install the holder.

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    That completes the folding stocks. Still some minor clean up but that will be at the finish stage of the builds.

  10. The spring catch isnt fully adjusted yet, it will go down. It's barley in the tube and has plenty of room to go down. That is a great side by side comparison and it looks like I'm pretty close. My inner tube can be just a tad larger but this will do. Once it's attached to the receiver, no one will ever see it and it will be a static stock anyway. Thanks for the working photos, they are a great reference and perhaps the video should be used in the reference section. I haven't seen anything like that.

  11. When I made mine, I wasn't happy with it so I am going to remake it. Because it's soft aluminum I filed away where the knurled form goes to give me that machined look rather than me having to feather in the texture. I was mainly displeased with my bend, however you made it look great using that form you made from wood. If you don't mimd, I would like to give this a try. Great job!

  12. Finished up with the folding stock scratch build, for the most part. Just need to add the small bits inside the stock. It looks as if they penatrate the arms and go through, but its hard to tell from photos. This was a fun build, a lot of moving parts, but overal very satisfying. I used an old metal hobby knife that fit in my tube to hold the release catch and put a spring inside so it can move. If im not mistaken, it looks as if the small middle section pushes the inside of the handle to release the spring.  I dont own a real one nor have I seen one so Im just guessing.

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    And finally a completed folded stock

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