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Posts posted by themaninthesuitcase
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On my 3D printer flash guards mine are as smooth as the resin just from sanding and paint so it's perfectly doable you just need to put more effort in than the resin ones.
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There's a Stanley one but it's £88 ($128+- exchange changes).
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The mattress topper is a good idea. I'm going to have to get a better bin, mines fine for short trips but I've got a long walk this weekend so have had to bodge up a trolly for it.
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I struggled with the resistors too. I can shorten them down for a mk2 version. Roughly how much needs to come off? Looks about 1mm based on that's how thick the plates are?
But if that's all that's wrong I'll call that a win.
Also for finishing: on some parts I primed them with Tamiya then used a heavy coat of auto primer and they are almost as good as the doopy Doo resin they are glued too. I think for the cylinders the best bet is to sand, seal, prime and then maybe sand again if you want a really good finish.
Edit: I just noticed the rounding off of the right angle, I can do that too.
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Size can be worked around for some stuff by scaling or by cutting up bits further.
Autocad have a whole raft of free tools. 123D Design is good for geometric stuff as is Fusion 360 which is a bit more full featured (and free for enthusiasts). Meshmixer is also useful for tweaking, cutting up and fixing models.
I also have blender which is very high end capability wise but I've not started down that way as the auto desk stuff is better for what I've been doing.
Steep learning curve though.
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I'm waiting on one too. Reys blaster is high on my list for my daughter. They're a good one on my mini factory.
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/star-wars-nl-44-reys-blaster-17422
The AT-AT is amazing too but need to see that will fit my printer.
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Name = Chris Pearson
501st ID = 10911
FISD forum name = themaninthesuitcase
Garrison = UK Garrison
501st Profile = http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21319
EIB Thread = http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37103-tk-10911-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-anovos-578/
Armor = Anovos
Helmet = Anovos
Blaster = Doopy Doo full resin
Height = 176cm
Weight = 82kg
Boots = Imperial Boots
Canvas belt = RWA
Gloves & Hand Plates = Imperial Supply Depot
Electronics = TKVoice, Aker & Wireless Trooping Systems
Neck Seal = Anovos
Holster = Anovos
Armor Photos
Full Body Front
Full Body Back
Full Right
Full Left
Right Side Detail
Left Side Detail
Armor Details
Side Rivets
Kidney Notch
Gloves
Shoulder Bridge Front
Shoulder Bridge Back
Shoulder Elastic
Thigh Pack Attachment
Sniper Knee Attachment
Drop Box Back
Crotch/Butt Detail
Wrist return
Helmet Detail Photos
Front
Side
Back
Hovi tip detail
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S Trim
Lens color (Backlit if necessary)
Neckseal
Blaster left side
Blaster right side
Blaster D Ring
Thermal detonator back
Interior Strapping
Abdomen Detail
Action Shot
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Ill bare this in mind in my next build.The tube stripes should be sloping forward slightly at the top. The decals or templates are made a certain way and they have been applied to the wrong side in this case. While they may not affect any applications of EIB or Centurion, it is advisable to do things correctly so others do not follow your mistakes. Even some armour makers are selling assembled helmets with the tube stripes upside down without realising the mistake.
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I really can't see anything wrong. Tube stripes were hand painted on ANH helmets so there was no "side" to get wrong. The left one on mine also isn't as tight at the back due to the template not wanting to curve on that tube. Not one person even noticed.
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Welcome to FISD (and the UKG).
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Welcome to the Detachment.
If the 501st is your goal make sure you stop over at the UKG. We're a fussy old bunch but friendly too. There's plenty of knowledge too and people willing to help and guide you into the clearance.
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Thanks for the app plug! Also got a mention for EIB. I should have done my centurion images and could have been in there 3 times doh!
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This evening it was time for my first post troop repair.
Previously I'd tried to fix a crack on the rim of the bucket with some ABS paste. This has simply cracked again
To fix it I was going to use some acetone to "glue" on some scrap ABS but the position made this pretty impossible, even with some thin scrap.
I decided to try a fix suggested at the troop which is to super glue some fabric on.
I think the ideal would have been some t-shirt but I don't have anything suitable to cut up at the moment. What the wife found was some thin white cotton from a nativity costume.
To apply it I dropped a few drops of super glue on the crack and then pressed on the fabric. I then tried to saturate the fabric with more super glue. As the fabric was pretty thin I did a second layer to try get more strength through layering. The fabric over lapped into the hole so this was trimmed with scissors.
The patches were cut to be larger than the crack to stop the crack running any further and thicken up this thin area.
I did also consider soaking the fabric in acetone rather than superglue but I was worried the thinness of the material here would warp or melt through. I'm still toying with the idea of sanding/filing back the out side and applying paste to melt and fill the crack too now it's reinforced from the rear.
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First things first:
Once again thank you to everyone who made this possible.
After the troop I had a few sore spots, and after a chat with one Mr Haggis I've started some extra trimming.
For the biceps and fore arms I've reduced down the returns a lot. I've left a bit as I prefer the look with a bit of return. This wasn't a huge problem area but I'm hoping this will give me a bit more are movement. That said it's loosening up a bit with use, I could do the shoulder poppers my self for example which I couldn't do when I first suited up.
The biggest issue was a rub on the top of my left knee from the front of the thigh. I've started fixing this in a few ways.
- Removed the foam from the back of the thigh. This isn't really needed the foam in the shin stops the sniper plate hooking.
- Reduced the return at the bottom of the thighs. This was about 7-8mm it's now more like 3-4mm. Still enough to give the illusion of thickness but less to dig into my knee.
- Trimmed the top of the rear of the thigh.
Working off images like below, and the shape of my big fat bottom I've started to trim away at the top.
I think I can go a bit further still. It's easy to take off but a pain to put it back. The shape is a bit odd and is based on removing the minimum needed to get a good fit. It's already considerably better. Twist is reduced and it's being pushed down less. I suspect I'll remove a bit more but time ran out this evening so I might wait to troop it again before I cut again.
Once the final position is nailed down I'll round off any remaining points like one the left thigh.
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I'm actually rather surprised at the kit. Despite having sworn off them, if I had the money I'd probably have been first in line on this one.
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If you run the numbers it's actually surprisingly close to a fan made kit once you account for this comes with a premium line bucket, boots, gloves and gaskets.Woooooaaa<br>
I know this a more complex armor, an also a harder to build, but 2,225$ just for the kit seems a little too much. Don't know if it's off the market. Will it worth it?
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Gloves from ISD came today. I went with the silicone option rather than latex as theres a chance one of my daughters has a latex allergy and also it's becoming more common so I wouldn't want to give someone at a troop a reaction.
The gloves are a nice thin material compared to my Black HD Marigold brand ones so I might actually be able to feel what I'm holding, like say an E-11. The silicone has a few small holes from air bubbles during casting but nothing too alarming.
These where the last parts I was waiting on for my Centurion application. However I've still got to address the shoulder bell gap. The elastic is the correct length, or at least pretty close to it. The issue is my shoulder doesn't fit into the bell properly so they all need to be heat formed to flare them out a touch. As I am trooping tomorrow I won't be doing that until either Sunday or Monday. I'll need to take some elastic off too allow for this so I'll have to check how much I've got left.
Once all that's done I should be okay to go for Centurion which will be a nice achievement if I can get it.
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Thanks thats perfect. I wasn't sure where I'd need to apply the pressure. I'm guessing you dunked the whole bell?
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Would you mind detailing what you did to them when heated? I have the same issue, the elastic is the right length but my shoulders push them out more than I'd like.
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I binned my DD flash guards and used some 3D printed ones.
For the front stock I added a screw to fit into the slot which is molded in but needs filing out.
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Got news from Imperial Supply Depot that my new gloves are ready so those are now paid for. Probably won't be here in time for my first troop on Saturday but oh well. Should be good to go for centurion next week though which is nice.
I also got a helmet bag today which I should have done a long time ago.
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Welcome to the detchment and the UKG, I look forward to your WIP.
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Also if you're planning on joining the 501st you'll need to sign up on the UK Garrison too and start a WIP thread over there too as part of the clearance procedure.
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Lucky#Eleven - Phoenix Props Pipe Kit with Completion Set, Conversion Counter, Inner Barrel and more Add-Ons
in ANH BlasTech E11
Posted
I just adjusted the model a bit, fortunately I was able to cut and shut the capacitors and the "bend" has been added too using an extra piece and fillet. Much more than this might have meant a re-design but seeing as it's so close these small changes were reasonably simple to do. It's taught me a bit about leaving bits so that I can edit them again in future.
Anyway some images:
The curve of the bend has been added to replace bent metal. The inside curve is 0.25mm radius and the out side is 1mm, the "metal" is 1mm thick. I think this looks pretty close to realistic.
The resistors have been shortened by 2mm. It's hard to see how much you removed but this looks about right.
I could also make the holes a bit larger in both the main cylinder and capacitors which might help reduce the amount of finishing too. I'll need to measure things first before I add these.
Then all that's left is a willing guinea pig to order the v1.1 part.
Any thoughts on the changes would be appreciated.