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themaninthesuitcase

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Posts posted by themaninthesuitcase

  1. I just adjusted the model a bit, fortunately I was able to cut and shut the capacitors and the "bend" has been added too using an extra piece and fillet.  Much more than this might have meant a re-design but seeing as it's so close these small changes were reasonably simple to do.  It's taught me a bit about leaving bits so that I can edit them again in future.

     

    Anyway some images:

     

    27080673394_b558384534_c.jpg

     

    The curve of the bend has been added to replace bent metal.  The inside curve is 0.25mm radius and the out side is 1mm, the "metal" is 1mm thick.  I think this looks pretty close to realistic.

     

    27080673814_d3cbe8eb83_c.jpg

     

    The resistors have been shortened by 2mm.  It's hard to see how much you removed but this looks about right.

     

    I could also make the holes a bit larger in both the main cylinder and capacitors which might help reduce the amount of finishing too. I'll need to measure things first before I add these.

     

    Then all that's left is a willing guinea pig to order the v1.1 part.

     

    Any thoughts on the changes would be appreciated.

    • Like 4
  2. I struggled with the resistors too. I can shorten them down for a mk2 version. Roughly how much needs to come off? Looks about 1mm based on that's how thick the plates are?

     

    But if that's all that's wrong I'll call that a win.

     

    Also for finishing: on some parts I primed them with Tamiya then used a heavy coat of auto primer and they are almost as good as the doopy Doo resin they are glued too. I think for the cylinders the best bet is to sand, seal, prime and then maybe sand again if you want a really good finish.

     

    Edit: I just noticed the rounding off of the right angle, I can do that too.

    • Like 1
  3. Size can be worked around for some stuff by scaling or by cutting up bits further.

     

    Autocad have a whole raft of free tools. 123D Design is good for geometric stuff as is Fusion 360 which is a bit more full featured (and free for enthusiasts). Meshmixer is also useful for tweaking, cutting up and fixing models.

     

    I also have blender which is very high end capability wise but I've not started down that way as the auto desk stuff is better for what I've been doing.

     

    Steep learning curve though.

  4. Name = Chris Pearson

    501st ID = 10911

    FISD forum name = themaninthesuitcase

    Garrison = UK Garrison

    501st Profile = http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21319

    EIB Thread = http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37103-tk-10911-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-anovos-578/

     

    Armor = Anovos

    Helmet = Anovos

    Blaster = Doopy Doo full resin

     

    Height = 176cm

    Weight = 82kg

    Boots = Imperial Boots

    Canvas belt = RWA

    Gloves & Hand Plates = Imperial Supply Depot

    Electronics = TKVoice, Aker & Wireless Trooping Systems

    Neck Seal = Anovos

    Holster = Anovos

     

    Armor Photos

     

    Full Body Front

     

    27542285955_8b18da1c58_b.jpg

     

    Full Body Back

     

    26919462104_9869f6ee2d_b.jpg

     

    Full Right

     

    27528703905_94839b6d62_b.jpg

     

    Full Left

     

    26933606903_cac8138154_b.jpg

     

    Right Side Detail

     

    27528703065_0fb34b6eee_b.jpg

     

    Left Side Detail

     

    27528701585_3e8290fca5_b.jpg

     

    Armor Details

     

    Side Rivets

     

    26094418684_ee5fb2e184_b.jpg

     

    Kidney Notch

     

    26094420714_803ce6a67a_b.jpg

     

    Gloves

     

    27494366656_8d27d6440e_b.jpg

     

    Shoulder Bridge Front

     

    26634194521_aa37ed5a90_b.jpg

     

    Shoulder Bridge Back

     

    26634195841_c8b06f4391_b.jpg

     

    Shoulder Elastic

     

    26634193361_3a9bb167b7_b.jpg

     

    Thigh Pack Attachment

     

    26634191071_e4199799e4_b.jpg

     

    Sniper Knee Attachment

     

    26607266722_109bf768e5_b.jpg

     

    26607265462_6a63a4e1f5_b.jpg

     

    Drop Box Back

     

    26094426734_0652788fc1_b.jpg

     

    Crotch/Butt Detail

     

    26096224423_9753a9e660_b.jpg

     

    Wrist return

     

    26096216233_d9841f9194_b.jpg

     

    Helmet Detail Photos

     

    Front

     

    27528967575_7f034a2a8f_b.jpg

     

    Side

     

    26775572946_23ded9016a_b.jpg

     

    26775573686_fc833ff090_b.jpg

     

    Back

    26775572326_b2a4851622_b.jpg

     

    Hovi tip detail

     

    27528700735_c7306ba731_b.jpg[/url]

     

    S Trim

     

    26096232403_06084fc849_b.jpg

     

    Lens color (Backlit if necessary)

     

    26195047904_b7f2ae7dce_b.jpg

     

    Neckseal

     

    26195048204_dfa9eb3f30_b.jpg

     

    Blaster left side

     

    26654514156_c6a3d7fdb7_b.jpg

     

    Blaster right side

     

    26075364464_44a64e28ac_b.jpg

     

    Blaster D Ring

     

    26049439383_b61b627ce3_b.jpg

     

    Thermal detonator back

     

    26673575666_4bc374f526_b.jpg

     

    Interior Strapping

     

    26096230473_1e44616a2b_b.jpg

     

    Abdomen Detail

     

    26673568416_904a6eb115_b.jpg

     

    Action Shot

     

    26096242913_6098095e0f_b.jpg

  5. The tube stripes should be sloping forward slightly at the top. The decals or templates are made a certain way and they have been applied to the wrong side in this case. While they may not affect any applications of EIB or Centurion, it is advisable to do things correctly so others do not follow your mistakes. Even some armour makers are selling assembled helmets with the tube stripes upside down without realising the mistake.

    Ill bare this in mind in my next build.
  6. This evening it was time for my first post troop repair.

     

    Previously I'd tried to fix a crack on the rim of the bucket with some ABS paste. This has simply cracked again :(

     

    27283350132_b9fe48c6b2_c.jpg

     

    To fix it I was going to use some acetone to "glue" on some scrap ABS but the position made this pretty impossible, even with some thin scrap.

     

    I decided to try a fix suggested at the troop which is to super glue some fabric on.

     

    I think the ideal would have been some t-shirt but I don't have anything suitable to cut up at the moment. What the wife found was some thin white cotton from a nativity costume.

     

    27310453921_dee628ce94_c.jpg

     

    To apply it I dropped a few drops of super glue on the crack and then pressed on the fabric. I then tried to saturate the fabric with more super glue. As the fabric was pretty thin I did a second layer to try get more strength through layering. The fabric over lapped into the hole so this was trimmed with scissors.

     

    27310454241_137de678f3_c.jpg

     

    The patches were cut to be larger than the crack to stop the crack running any further and thicken up this thin area.

     

    I did also consider soaking the fabric in acetone rather than superglue but I was worried the thinness of the material here would warp or melt through. I'm still toying with the idea of sanding/filing back the out side and applying paste to melt and fill the crack too now it's reinforced from the rear.

  7. First things first:

     

    27238930542_d65bcb2db8_c.jpg

     

    Once again thank you to everyone who made this possible.

     

    After the troop I had a few sore spots, and after a chat with one Mr Haggis I've started some extra trimming.

     

    For the biceps and fore arms I've reduced down the returns a lot. I've left a bit as I prefer the look with a bit of return. This wasn't a huge problem area but I'm hoping this will give me a bit more are movement. That said it's loosening up a bit with use, I could do the shoulder poppers my self for example which I couldn't do when I first suited up.

     

    The biggest issue was a rub on the top of my left knee from the front of the thigh. I've started fixing this in a few ways.

    • Removed the foam from the back of the thigh. This isn't really needed the foam in the shin stops the sniper plate hooking.
    • Reduced the return at the bottom of the thighs. This was about 7-8mm it's now more like 3-4mm. Still enough to give the illusion of thickness but less to dig into my knee.
    • Trimmed the top of the rear of the thigh.
    The last one is the big one and should mean the thigh twists less and can go up a bit higher. This was what I spoke to Bill about who said not worry about the squared off back, the originals didn't have them.

     

    Working off images like below, and the shape of my big fat bottom I've started to trim away at the top.

     

    missing%20holster%205_zpsgvcqmf81.png

     

    missing%20holster%204_zpsibo8vwru.png

     

    I think I can go a bit further still. It's easy to take off but a pain to put it back. The shape is a bit odd and is based on removing the minimum needed to get a good fit. It's already considerably better. Twist is reduced and it's being pushed down less. I suspect I'll remove a bit more but time ran out this evening so I might wait to troop it again before I cut again.

     

    27238929752_da03cb38a8_c.jpg

     

    Once the final position is nailed down I'll round off any remaining points like one the left thigh.

    • Like 1
  8. Woooooaaa<br>

    I know this a more complex armor, an also a harder to build, but 2,225$ just for the kit seems a little too much. Don't know if it's off the market. Will it worth it?

    If you run the numbers it's actually surprisingly close to a fan made kit once you account for this comes with a premium line bucket, boots, gloves and gaskets.
    • Like 2
  9. Gloves from ISD came today. I went with the silicone option rather than latex as theres a chance one of my daughters has a latex allergy and also it's becoming more common so I wouldn't want to give someone at a troop a reaction.

     

    26684385454_da877f0d8c_c.jpg

     

    The gloves are a nice thin material compared to my Black HD Marigold brand ones so I might actually be able to feel what I'm holding, like say an E-11. The silicone has a few small holes from air bubbles during casting but nothing too alarming.

     

    These where the last parts I was waiting on for my Centurion application. However I've still got to address the shoulder bell gap. The elastic is the correct length, or at least pretty close to it. The issue is my shoulder doesn't fit into the bell properly so they all need to be heat formed to flare them out a touch. As I am trooping tomorrow I won't be doing that until either Sunday or Monday. I'll need to take some elastic off too allow for this so I'll have to check how much I've got left.

     

    Once all that's done I should be okay to go for Centurion which will be a nice achievement if I can get it.

    • Like 1
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