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Everything posted by themaninthesuitcase

  1. Just sent him a message, will see if he gets back to me. edit: they are already on it.
  2. I know our TLJ Phasma was given special dispensation to troop last weekend, do want me to give him a prod?
  3. The cut off a la DD is probably just to make moulding easier. As for the other two, could be down to differences between minor variations of the sterling.
  4. The black series helmet is based on the Rogue One style is it not? If so, no it would not pass basic approval.
  5. I used pop rivets, but I recently found that single cap rivets are probably more accurate. What would be stronger I don't know, it's probably down to how well they are set. Belt assembled by Christopher Pearson, on Flickr This shows mine, I think I used 4x10mm rivets if not they are 4x8. So 3/16 x 3/8 ish in imperial. You can probably go bigger or smaller in the diameter but the length needs to be more or less spot on or the cap won't fit over them. Take a rivet, add a washer (of the nominal size of the rivet so 4mm in my case), through the belt, through the plastic and then another washer. Pop the rivet and glue on the cap. Solid as a rock and the washers will prevent pull through. It will also help if you can get a good clean hole in the canvas for them, I used a rotary punch to do mine and got an almost perfect clean hole in the belt. A bad hole is more likely to fray and pull out.
  6. I think I saw people talking about this on the Anovos group a while ago. I don't recall there being any real quality difference (there may well be but it wasn't mentioned) but people really didn't want the Tandy branding on the visible bases.
  7. Your best bet to get started is probably to make sure you’re happy with the pairing. If you look at an “ideal shin” shape there’s a “C” side and an “S” some armours have this some don’t and it is a little subtle. If yours does try match it to the correct sides. There is a diagram around that shows better than I can explain but I don’t have it to hand. Once that’s done trim the front ridge to fit the cover strips and align the pairs at the top. From there you have more of a sporting chance of figuring out the rears. From what I can see you’ll need to trim them and quite possibly need to hot water shape them too. The bottom edges will almost certainly need tidying up as well.
  8. I used 1" upholstery foam but for some bits I've cut it down to about 1/2" thick. All of my foam is attached by velcro, E6000'd to the armour contact cement to the foam. This means if I ever get bigger/smaller or it gets gross I can change it easily. side note: I saw a video in a Joannes last week, OMG I wish those existed here. It's like a cave of wonders!
  9. I believe not all sections count towards that 5.
  10. Aye, that one with the arrow is as good as it gets though. There was a few counters of “it might be a on set repair which as you know we don’t allow for”.
  11. I’m in favour of the shoulder rivets. There was a thread by CFO when Tim was DCO where I spent a fair while finding evidence. There’s not a lot but there’s a few frames where I believe they are visible. Sadly most shots of TKs are either the wrong angle, too far away or too much motion.
  12. I actually sewed mine, was quite time consuming sat in front of the machine do all 18ish straps. I guess I am lucky as I only use 1" as well and there's been no issues with "pull". Maybe the best course is start with elastic, but if there are areas that you can already tell will need pulling in or show they need it later in use swap to webbing.
  13. Joseph used webbing here, I personally would recommend elastic for some flexibility. For elastic add an extra inch at end and then fold that back to double it over for extra strength.
  14. A badly set snap will fail on you pretty fast in general. If during setting they become missaligned then it was not set well.
  15. Not overly good for your situation but mine stay in the box in the changing room. Safest place for them. However in your situation I would give them to the spotter, and make sure they are aware of my situation. If you need them in a hurry, begin in TK armour is going to slow you down a lot and having someone who can just be ready if needed is a smart move. Even if you administer the epipen yourself, not having to find it in the armour is going to speed things up.
  16. Sad thing is when they do make stuff it's usually pretty decent. From what I've seen they did some of the best First Order stuff and most of their other gear has been very nice (if pricey). I don't know what I want to happen as I was keeping an eye on the new FO kits with the idea of maybe getting in on wave 2. But with the price increases and "shipping to be decided" in the range of a few $100 I'm starting to think I just won't bother and put that money into something like the Shoretrooper I semi started and have a handful of parts inc a casting from a screen used handguard.
  17. The end cap clip should only engage when the cap is pushed in. When the spring is pushing it back and into position the pin in the clip should NOT be engaged and will be clear. How you have it looks about right but double check some reference. If you have it engaged when the spring is pushing it away, like I do as I only realised after I'd painted it, when you push the cap in to turn it it will rub on the U section and remove the paint. Also it's not how the real ones where.
  18. I keep meaning to do something about this but I need to round up some funds for it. FWIW I thought the counter was pretty good after some clean up, it locked to my genuine part at least. And I already offer replacement cylinders (though I might re do them)
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