themaninthesuitcase

https://www.501st.com/forum/app.php/howto-detachment-affiliation I'll need to find out if that ship has sailed, or if this login will count.

Hi Rob, When was the last time you logged into the forum before today?

Hi Jervis, You are currently marked as 501st TK here, are you referring to the Legion status? There are certain processes that get run in the run up to the elections, and this would include expiring membership where appropriate. I don't have access to the full data, but I would expect this is what has triggered this status change. My first guess was when was the last time you logged into the forum before today?

Welcome to the FISD.

Fantastic work Marc. Really hope I get to see one in person at some point.

Welcome to the FISD Good luck with your build!

Welcome to the FISD Stuart

They look like the ones from Assasin Graphics, who also do stickers for us. This is the link to stickers but the instructions will get you to the right place.

I can’t think why not. Just make sure you follow the rules when posting, they are posted in the forum.

I was just looking at the hengstler plug and thought it was a real on until I saw an earlier post with the pins missing

This is a really impressive build. Super clean and well made. You should be very proud of it. I need to build a 2nd blaster at some point and might well look at this for some pointers on what to do. A bit late now but in case you fancy swapping them. The brown cylinders are carbon composite Resistors. Probably 1W but maybe 1/2W I’d need to look at measurements. You can get them reasonably cheaply on eBay, even new old stock is pretty common but they are still made in some values for some reason. They are terrible as a resistor as the tolerance is awful and they add noise to the circuit but some people love them in audio equipment because that “badness” adds character.

XTC will be great on the larger areas, but it will fill in the details fast if you're not careful. Also make sure you mix it correctly or it can take ages to cure. If you need to cut try use a hand coping saw or jewellers saw. being slow and by hand it's going to cut more than melt. I also like to use drill bits designed for wood as they cut more aggressively and so melt less, especially if you slow the drill down little. To make that moveable will be awkward, you'll need to first remove the one that's there. Then hollow behind it and then mound a new trigger in its place. Something like a small tactile switch (look at the 6mm ones), or a sub microswitch will need the least space. For the trigger its self, once you have cut something to the correct size and shape, a simple pin in the top corner is all you need, something like a small nail is perfect and will be easy to hide.

Welcome to the FISD!

Will be interesting to see this. Lots of people have gone a more pricy route so having some one document a more affordable alternative would be great.

Not weird at all. There are a number of female TKs across the legion. For the most part things should be the same for you but if anything comes up we do have an all female section the Valkyries you can check out. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/255-vaders-valkyries-armor-open-discussion/

Good luck with the build, look forward to seeing more.

Hi Dave, Noticed you are new, have you also signed up with the UK Garrison? We have some processes you will need to go through if you want to join, and the earlier you get started the easier it is: https://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/join-us.html

You're probably looking at the Tramp (Trooper Amp). They are made by a member of the UK Garrison, and are pretty popular all over the world.

Interestingly those are showing as GBP on that link for me. Also the length and hole centres are within 0.25mm so in theory that will fit my mount if I use the right hole size. adds to shopping list

I also did this 3D file, which should meet Nato specs (I think anyway, it was a while ago I did it), and doesn't have the fake screws. https://www.printables.com/model/238211-standard-f-11d-tfa-to-tlj-conversion-parts

It's not what I would choose, but it should work. 2 AA in series will give between 2.4 and about 3.2v depending on if you're using rechargeable or brand new Duracells. The biggest issue is you will need a very low value resistor, around 51ohms. If you're using anything larger than that then you will be losing brightness. Would be good to see how you have things set up.

Here is the spec chart for those: The numbers we care about are the Vf (Forward Voltage, the amount of Voltage the LED will "use" essentially), Luminous Intensity (measured in mini Candela) and the Current rating (If). The max current for them all is 20mA (milli Amps, 1000ths of an Amp). It's not the voltage that kills and LED, with in reasonable values anyway, it's the current. Which is why we use a current limiting resistor. Brightness is 600-800mcd (red/yellow) which is what I would call a "bright" LED. So better than the one on your TV standby but it's not going to blind you. Orange is much better at 5000-6000 which is in the "super bright" sort of range and will have you seeing spots if you look right at it. For reference the white ones they use for torches will be in the 10,000-30,0000 range and they will be using a around 10 or more of them, the one in your TV is something like 50-65mcd. By adjusting the current with the resistor we can change how bright they get, we just have to keep it under 20mA as much past that and they burn out very fast. More resistance, less current, dimmer LED. If we make the assumption of a 2V Vf for them all (which is close enough here and inside all of their quoted ranges) and 5v supply to get max brightness you want a 150ohm resistor (of at least a 1/8w rating). Whilst I can do the maths for this it's tedious, so I tend to just use this web site: https://ledcalculator.net/#p=5&v=2&c=20&n=1&o=w What voltage are you using to power them, and what is the value of the currently limiting resistor you are using?

Do you have a link to what you ordered and I’ll be able to tell you why they are dim.

I'd say you want this locked in by August/September so you have them in hand before the ball drops!

My friend used that and was cleared. Though It was a TON of work and he's now replacing it with a Denuo Novo vac form kit for comfort reasons. The helmet is also a bit fussy, and around 10% over sized. I've got one mostly printed. My friend modified a Black Series helmet instead. This isn't intended to tell you no, more just let you know what you are in for.