Twnbrother

just amazing

this happens.... just get some strong glue like zap a gap and you will be good to go.

Chris if you got a really thin screwdriver tip it might work. However the base of those tip are pretty thick. You would have to do a lot of trimming and most of those are made from tempered steel... pretty hard to cut. I have seen a few people make it out of thin plastic.

Chris thanks for the kind words of encouragement on this build. I was able to get the metal stamps on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QHXM8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 for $13.37 and they were delivered in three days. My numbers didn't come out right after sanding lesson learned... I made the green stuff to thick. When you stamp the numbers you do not need much pressure. The aluminium channel does comes in the completion kit from Tino.

This morning I decided to make the magazine catch release button work. I used a spring (cut to length) from a pen, the metal rod I used to make the front site post a few drill bits. I drilled a hole in the magazine button to screw in the rod. I then drill a matching hole into the magazine well. The depth of the hole was a little longer than the rod. I then drilled a hole for the spring ensure I did not go too deep. I needed the ridge to hold the spring and the deeper hole for the rod. lastly I took a forstner bit and drilled a flat recess for the magazine button. I had to round off some more of the threads because it kept catching. Once ready to assemble I will glue the spring in the hole, attach the pieces and glue the spring to the magazine button to keep it from falling out. It works....

Yesterday I went to work on the bolt face that shows in the ejector port. I went ahead and carved out the ejector and tried my hand at the serial number. The ejector was made from the left over resin from the original DD front site post. The brass rod is the inside barrel of an ink pen. I dug out a spot for the serial number with my Dremel and filled with green stuff (saw this trick on Tino's thread). In this photo the green stuff had not dried so I have not sanded in down flush. I used 2mm metal stamps to make the serial number.

I painted the front site post and inserted temporarily for a few quick photos. Please let me know if I got this one right.

Brian thanks for the kind comments. I find myself thinking of ways to build this blaster all the time. If not for all the help from FISD I would not even be close on this blaster. Thanks for looking into the scope color. Tino's kit is by far the best thing you can get for a DD Blaster build. His stuff is great and he provides sound advice on the build. Thanks Tino.

My next project was the butt cap retaining clip (guess that is what its called) I wanted it to actually move. I trimmed out the one from the DD kit and made it fit the channel I got from Tino. I measured the distance to the pin going through the retaining clip and drilled out the hole. I inserted a metal rod (left over from the counter I disassembled) and a cut down spring from a pen. Now the retaining clip moves. I will super glue everything after painting.

Thanks Tino. I am wanting this to be as accurate as I can get it.... Building this kit is more fun than I would have thought. I am addicted to it.

I wanted to make the magazine removable so I bought industrial strength magnets at Home Depot. I then used my old mistake (where I tried to screw the magazine in place) as a guide for where to place the magnets. When you drill the hole you have to ensure the magnets will still touch. I messed up and drilled to deep. Easy fix I just stacked on another magnet. Make sure you use Zap a Gap or some other strong super glue to hold the magnets in place It holds together very well.... I really like the look of Gazmosis's magazine

This pic is the front scope lens showing the red lens.

While at lunch today I walked into the PX looking for a flashlight for my wife. There on the shelf was this flashlight and it came with three colored lenses. I scanned the package with my Amazon app and it came up with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DERCXM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER These colored lenses fit perfectly in the rubber gasket from the monocular. Now I just have to print off the scope reticle on clear labels and attach.

I was able to come up with a way to retain the inner lense. I used the rubber eye piece that comes with the monocular by trimming out the center leaving a ringed gasket. This rubber ring has a recess portion that was originally used to attach it to the monocular.

I have been continuing my work on the scope and I have made some changes. i started out by hollowing out the entire scope.... it was a little tedious, but hopefully worth the effort. I did this to allow light to show through.

I have a question for anyone with a real M38 scope. What is the color inside past the lens? Is it brass, flat black, gloss black..... Thanks

Constantin good luck with you build. The DD Kits are super addictive. You should check out Tino's finishing kit http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/ and tutorial http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26673-full-resin-e-11-from-doopydoos-with-some-modifications/.

My brother just bought the same counter numbers I did on amazon. His counter face was clear but still had the correct color numbers and the beveled glass. The length of the glass was the same, but the width was about and 1/8" smaller. He will fill the space with green stuff and trim to appear correct. Pictures of his counter are below.

I wanted to incorporate a sight reticle on the inside of the scope. So I used Pablo's tutorial http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/2725-howto-create-a-scope-visual-effect-pablos-way/. I made a quick reticle on a small disk for proof of concept. I placed the reticle at the end of a ruler and the large scope lense on the ruler. I adjusted the distance until the sight reticle came into focus. This is the distance that you want to create a lip with the forstner bit inside the scope tube. Once I find a transparency that I can draw or print on I will redo the sight reticle.

Last night I went to work on the scope. Lesson learned... If you do not have forstner bits I would not advise cutting the inner portion of the scope tube. I quickly realized my mistake and found my forstner bits. I drilled consecutively smaller diameter holes until I reached the desired depth. Make sure you measure how deep to go and the diameter of the scope changes. I got my lenses from a cheap monocular off Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GIG9COU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 The small lense is easy to remove (two inside). The larger lense was a little more difficult. Once you cut it out make sure you save the metal ring for the large lense. I used zap a gap to glue the metal ring to the lense. Next I drilled out the front lense port and then the screw heads.

Thanks Tino. I'm hoping the selector switch works well when its finally assembled.

Awesome tutorial. I'm working on my DD Scope and will incorporate this. Thanks for sharing.

Tonight I continued on with the pistol grip and trigger assemble. My trigger and trigger guard needed lots of sanding due to excess trim molding. Afterwards I laid out the parts and pieces I needed for the build. I began by drilling a hole through the pistol grip assemble and trigger for the nail that will allow the trigger to work. I counter sunk and trimmed the nail. When assembled I can cover the divot with green stuff. Next I marked off the angle for the spring that will make the trigger work. I drilled slowly and measured the depth to ensure I did not go all the way through the pistol grip. The trigger works... I also drilled holes under the trigger assembly and the the front part where the trigger guard connect for two screws to assist with mounting. I also drilled out the spot for the FREE LOCK screw. Lastly I drilled out the bottom M5 hex screw. All the extra parts in this trigger build are from T-Jays E11 finishing kit. If you building a DD you gotta get that kit.

I wanted to make the selector switch move and I think I figured out how. When I was making the front site post I got the idea. I did the basic same thing but this time the post was rounded. I layed the post on the selector switch to make sure I had it long enough. I then drill a tightly matching hole on the selector switch. I then drilled a slightly smaller diameter hole for the screw end of the post that I made. I screwed the post in the hole until flush. Once the selector switch is glued onto the post the switch can move.

I painted the silver undercoat on the face of the Hengslter counter. Feels good to paint something . I first scuffed up the plexiglass with 220 grit sandpaper and then hit it with a plastic primer. The silver paint is "Rust-oleum Universal Metallic paint and primer in one" its for any surface to include plastic. The color you see is Dark Steel. I thought silver was too shiny. The rounded counter window has been taped off with Tamiya tape.