Kredal

And that's kind of why I posted the topic... I saw his Centurion thread, and was a little confused. But I wasn't about to call him out on it here, because hey, if it's allowed, it's allowed. I'm the new guy. (:

Found a use for the belt drop-boxes! (:

Congrats! I'll hopefully have my Big Brown AM 2.0 box on Monday, and I'll be posting a build thread then. We can keep each other entertained. (:

You can email Imperial Boots at contact@imperialboots.com They're based out of China, so it may take until odd hours to get back to you. Patience! They're worth it when you get them! (:

The three pictures from the Celebration in the newsletter were pretty telling. "Here's ALL the Stormtroopers who made it!" "Here's the smaller but still decent amount of EI Troopers" "and here's what's left when we only see Centurions". The average person (and I count myself as that still, really) couldn't tell the difference between the costumes of the three sets without being pointed right to them... I'm going to go for Centurion on my build just for the fancy ribbon and knowing I'm as screen-accurate as possible, but I'm still gonna be really happy just to get a TK number from the 501st!

Oh come on, the left bicep looks fine!

That suit doesn't look too bad, really. The forearms are missing the divots on the outside (maybe you're just wearing them upside down?) As far as glasses go, maybe you can get a small pair to wear in the helmet? Take the bucket into the eye doctor and try on small pairs with the helmet on. (: Good luck, hope you find something that works! I saw one build on here where someone took glasses without ear hooks and mounted them behind the lenses, so they would always be in the helmet when he put it on.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-037025H-Gallon-Mobile-Chest/dp/B000Q5LZT4 Something like this. Should be able to get it cheaper at a local store. You really need 50 gallons at least, wheels are good, a lock (or lockable) is REALLY good, and if there's an internal shelf or something to put the "soft parts" even better. I'll be heading to Lowes in the next day or so to look for my case.

Got my Imperial boots a couple days ago. I normally wear 12.5 wide... picked up size 13 boots, and they fit well, just a little tight along the sides as expected. Hopefully they'll stretch out a little bit, but my initial impressions are really good! Yeah, I'd take pictures, but they're boots. (: White, no seams except for the very back, U-shaped elastic bits.

Thanks for the info! I'll get approved first, and then go nuts. (: I think the point of the personalization is to be able to look at a line up of TKs, all wearing seemingly identical armor and being able to say "The third guy from the left, with the TK-12345, is me!" (Obviously I'm not TK-12345, but you know)

Quick question: I'm going for Centurion on my armor, but I'd like to personalize it with the shoulder bell decal that TrooperBay sells (or get the same thing cut locally)... Will having an extra sticker on a shoulder DQ me from the upper tiers of 501st approval? For reference: http://trooperbay.com/personalized-shoulder-bell-id-decal.html

The DoopyDoo resin kits are like $100 shipped to US. No way are you going to get a "good" 3D printer for $500. Of course, getting your HANDS on 5 resin kits is going to be hard. I'm still trying to get one. Last time they came in stock, I was asleep for the 2 hours they were available. I'm not sure what "demilled" means, so there's that, and it might be a perfectly reasonable way to go. (:

You totally should!

Looks like someone beat you to it!

Got my tracking number too! Should be here next Monday! YAAAAY! [kermitflail.gif] Then comes the supreme nervousness about that first cut...

Horray! That's what I wanted to hear! (: I also put out a feeler to ATA to get a set of Hero ears from him, since I want to have 3 bumps instead of 4. Since the helmet will be the last thing I put together, no big rush on that. But very cool that the chest has been re-modeled too. Thanks! (I also should be receiving my tracking number any day now!)

So the back is ok, but still not the chest? So close!

Your info says you're in Ontario. I went to the 501st page, looked under the Unit Listings, and found www.capitalcity501st.ca If they're in your area, sign up on their message board, there's probably a section of it about building armor, and you may even have someone who helps other people there... Good luck! (But really, read all about it here, use E-6000, and then even if you mess it up, you can tear it off and try again!)

Thanks for the ideas, I just added a few more numbers to my list. Now I have more than 5 that are available... Hopefully they STAY available until I can join!

I've got a few number choices picked out for when I get my armor built and submit it, so I'm just curious how other people pick their numbers. I've seen at least one zip code, and a couple that I recognized as letter-to-phone translations. Anyone else have cool stories for how they came up with their numbers?

For level 2 certification, the Hero helmet says "Lenses are green bubble or smoke bubble only." There's no mention of the lens color or shape for level 3. For the Stunt helmet, it says this in the basic cert: "Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes." Can't be smoke, can't be bubble, to even be approved. The Hero can use whatever lenses you have laying around for basic certification, which seems odd to me, but whatever. Other than details of the helmet (of which there are a few that could seriously trip you up if you're not paying attention), the only other differences appear to be the holster having 2 (stunt) or 4 (hero) snaps holding it to the belt, and the hero build allows for the comlink/grappling hook that you want.

Your kit came with two of the TD knee plates, but no TK plate? Before you try to find one solo, contact the seller and see if you just got a mis-packed shipment. Ask for the TK sniper knee, he'll know what you need. My AM kit should be shipped soon so I know to keep an eye out for the right pieces now. (: Thanks for the unintentional heads up! Oh! Also, it comes with ABS glue. Don't use that! Use E6000 instead, so if you mess up, you can pull the parts apart and rejoin them correctly. That seems to be the #1 thing people get told about the AM kit, so I'm passing it along to you. (:

Resurrecting this thread... If you already have an amplifier board, it's possible to replace the volume knob or wheel with another potentiometer. Basic instructions: Use a multimeter to test the resistance of the three pins coming from the volume knob. The first one should be connected to ground, the middle one is attached to the rotating bit of the potentiometer (pot), and the last one is connected to the speaker (maybe through some other circuitry. What you're looking for is the resistance between the first and last pins. You'll want to buy a new pot that is really close to that value (they come usually in multiples of 100 ohms, like 100, 500, 1000, 5000, etc) Once you have a new one, you want to cut off the old one, and run wires from those three pins to the three pins on your new one. As long as you use decently sized wires, the extra resistance of the long wires should make no appreciable difference to the sound. If you don't remove the old pot when you add on the new one, you could end up with wonky sound when you turn one but not the other (wonky is a technical term)... So it's best to only have one volume knob on a single line. Drill a hole in the helmet where the hovi tip/volume knob will go that's just big enough for the shaft of the pot to fit through, glue the base of the pot to the inside of the helmet so it doesn't rotate when you rotate the shaft, then glue the shaft into the hovi tip (I guess where the screw used to go? You may have to widen/reinforce the base of the mic tip for that), run the wires to your amplifier, solder everything together, and twist your mic tip to raise and lower your volume! Good luck, and be sure to provide pictures! (:

Awesome, thanks for the info!

So, my first of many questions likely to come up on the board! I have an AM 2.0 kit on the way, and I've been watching the Trooperbay videos to see what to do and what not to do (For instance, I know not to use CA glue, and bought a big tube of E6000 instead, but I *DID* buy a pair of cut-resistant gloves!) So when he's putting together the helmet, once it's all attached, he paints the white plastic... white. Like 3 or 4 coats of enamel, it looks like. Is that a mandatory thing? Shouldn't it be white already out of the box, or is there a shade variation between the helmet and the armor that's important? Or is it all about getting a good topcoat for the details (traps, tears, teeth) to adhere to? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2OK1wYntio is the first of the helmet painting videos.