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TaySavesTheDay

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Posts posted by TaySavesTheDay

  1. I had some extra time this morning, so I started on the left ear. With the left ear comes some good news and some bad news. The good is that I've already done the right ear, so I can leverage that experience and cut a little more confidently. However, the bad news is that the left side was the one I had to heat up to get it to match. So.. that being said, it isn't as easy to fit the curve as the right side and since it's a little more wonky. 

     

    I won't bore you guys with the pictures of each step as they are the exact same as the previous ear, so here's the final ear (before sanding)

    11011291_838907482868396_334749822356451

    10422376_838907492868395_458306384096803

    10300891_838907496201728_124232981985892

     

    And the notch is a little larger on this because of how my helmet sits (again, wonky left side). 

    11214052_838907486201729_168996904880283

     

    Then I sanded, drilled the holes (mechanical pencil method), assembled, and drilled and countersunk the bottom screw. Here's what I got:

    10509545_838907542868390_286413345705105

     

    Not sure why I didn't take a picture of the gap, but it's better than the right side. Here's the final helmet:

    1902997_838907576201720_6779051237248753

    1907480_838907566201721_8822641619807680

     

    11031148_838907572868387_377850749439574

  2. Okay! Don't you love how busy life gets and then you don't have time to build. Well, I'm on the ears, and seems like every time I find myself with a decent chunk of time, something comes up. So I've started the ears maybe 4 different times this week, but this is really a one sitting kinda job. 

     

    So let's see, where to start: 

     

    First I trimmed the excess material from the ears, and then drilled a 7/64 hole in two locations to match the size of the screws that came with the ATA kit. The hole locations are very easy to find on the ATA. 

    1461840_838543256238152_2191793347911796

     

    Then I begin to countersink the holes. As so many have warned in the past, please DO THIS BY HAND. Do not use a drill, it will grab the hole and you will have a gigantic hole after that. 

    10153701_838543262904818_786296023941158

     

    In the above picture, you can see the different in the top hole from the bottom hole. I went about 3/4th of the way in to make sure the screw is somewhat flush. It will stick out a little but when you tighten it down, you won't even see it. Just don't go all the way through.

     

    Using other build threads and the ATA lines as guidance, I went ahead and trimmed a lot off. You'll need to adjust it A LOT, but this will save me time with the dremel. 

    10156061_838543269571484_665611569839348

     

    After smoothing it out with the dremel, I tested it's fit and guess what? It doesn't fit at all. That was fully expected. So from here, I will direct you to Gazmosis's ear tutorial, which is fantastic. 

    http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/

    I followed it exactly, so no point in me reiterating exactly what he has written. But the short version is that you place the ear onto the helmet and trim so very lightly where the ear touches the helmet to get the gaps to become closer to the helmet. Once all the touching areas are trimmed, the gaps will be closed. Also, it is important to note, that work a little on the left side of one ear, then switch to the right side (or front and back of the ear, depending on what you're calling it). Anything you alter on one side will affect the other side. Often, I had a gap on the front that wasn't closing, and then I trimmed the other side and it closed.

     

    For this, I mainly used the dremel and removed material very slowly. It's easy to get impatient, but the slowness is definitely rewarded. Only use the dremel for a few seconds, trim one area at a time, and check the fit after every dremeling. 

     

    I'm happy to answer anyone's questions on this part too.

     

    I started the dremeling of the ears at 6pm today and finished around 8. So it's not a quick process. Here's my floor to show you how much I had to trim from one ear:

    11393223_838543539571457_506681252599399

     

    And of course, always wear eye protection:

    11425449_838543532904791_795491415891852

     

    So my ear ending up looking like this: 

    10371922_838543662904778_329909772479855

    10666092_838543709571440_557488001465129

    10392436_838543779571433_598826119454681

     

    This was after sanding it to a nice finish too. Also, don't forget to add a notch to the top as there are two different layers on the helmet:

    11401450_838543782904766_511186213554088

     

    So using the pencil markings of the shape of the ears on the helmet. I lined up the ear on the helmet and used a mechanical pencil pushed all the way out to mark the drill holes:

    11393007_838543829571428_560698615799436

     

    So now I drill those holes. I do not drill the bottom hole yet.

    11401404_838543879571423_153893844048130

     

    Once I get the top two secured, I pull down and push with my thumb on the lower part to get the fit perfect, then I drill through all three layers at once. Then I counter sink that one while attached:

    11407176_838543912904753_121130134078963

     

     

    I'd say I'm pretty happy with this fit. It's not perfect, but it's pretty darn close.

    11109017_838543916238086_121179450253446

     

     

    11390063_838543976238080_558460983938899

  3. I got home from work and went straight to work on the lenses. These proved to be a little more difficult than I expected, so I can see why people don't go for this route, but rather go for a full installation of a large green sheet (or just glue it in). But hey, I think this way looks nicer, and was a little more challenging, and I'm up for a challenge. 

     

    So onto the lenses:

     

    First I tried the boiling water technique. I read that you should boil the lenses for approximately 30 seconds until they are "soft", don't use tongs as they will leave a mark, and don't apply too many pressure. 

    11391214_10103226677848554_4570105623371

     

    However, I boiled it for 4 minutes and when I pulled it out, the spoon was hot as well, but the lens was never soft enough to shape. Well, at that point, I decided to go with the handy heat gun instead. I used low heat again, heated it for approximately 2-3 minutes, and then just placed it onto the eye slot and gently pushed down on the edges. My first one I tried, I pushed on the entire lens and got more of the hero "bubble" look, which stunt's don't want. So the next two I did, I only pushed on the edges and it worked perfectly. Once shaped, I placed it on the eye, used my phone's flashlight function to see through the lens, and marked with a sharpie where the lens was over the hole. Then I drilled through the lens, which wasn't very difficult either. 

     

    11407254_10103226677843564_3398842870136

     

    Now with both done, I installed them into the eyes, and left a small gap as I heard this helps with airflow and prevents fog ups. 

    11401104_10103226678013224_4763804678527

     

    One thing to note, if you look at the right eye, near the nose, as I was screwing in the other one, the pressure popped the tower off. This is because i painted it first. In hindsight, I should have sanded off the paint before I glued, but I didn't. The others seem to hold, so when I removed the lens for safe keeping, I sanded and glued it back down. Easy fix, but just a little annoying.

     

    Now here's final pictures of the eyes, and the whole face. 

    11401436_10103226677983284_6141174687469

    11392884_10103226677988274_7950062273806

    11107175_10103226678078094_1931666642924

     

    I tried it on, and it's perfect to see through with no distortion. The lenses are extremely easy to add and remove with the screw system. And I also don't get any fogging for the 5 minutes I wore it around the house.

     

    At this point, I've put off the ears as long as I can, but I think all that's left is the ears before painting! So next post will be ears, but for that.... I'll need a full day probably. Talk to you all soon!

  4. Thanks for sharing your experience. I have an ATA bucket as well I've just started and I was hesitant to go the heat gun route, but you made seem easy enough I'm going to give it a try.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    Hey George,

     

    Yeah, I was a little hesitant for a heat gun too as this is my first project using one. Most people used a heat gun or a searing iron in the tutorials I read, and with heat guns they recommended underheating compared to overheating. I kept it on low heat the entire time and tried to evenly heat it with an oven mitt on the other side. I didn't push at all so I didn't leave a thumb print, and just applied a small bit of pressure while and after heating it. I kept the pressure up until it cooled and didn't have any problems. I just heated a heat gun on the lenses, which was a little more difficult. I'll post my experiences with that now. 

    • Like 1
  5. So had a little more time to work on the helmet. I feel like I've been putting in hours every night and there's still so much to do. But it's truly rewarding everytime I add something new because it looks that much more like the final product. 

     

    So first, I decided to cut the neck trim to try it on

     

    I drew my trim lines:

    11389992_10103225759898134_7526039876644

    By not trimming the neck prior to assembling the two sides, I was able to get a much better match, especially on the left side. I highly recommend waiting on trimming until now. So here's the final trim:

    11389992_10103225759893144_5638099442256

     

    Now, I wanted to work on the eyes before I do the ears. In hindsight, I probably should have done the eyes before I mated the two sides. But it isn't a problem doing it now, just a bit more awkward. I researched many different ways to attach the eyes, and wanted to do something a bit more cool than just screwing them into the ear screws, and I wanted to give myself the option to change them out later if needed, so I didn't want to just glue them in. 

     

    I decided to follow gazmosis's tutorial and make little abs stands for the lenses. So first I cut about 3 square sections from the excess of the ears and glue them together:

    11389992_10103225759888154_7534826750902

     

    I didn't worry too much about them all being the same size because I would trim them afterwards. 

     

    Then I took the stack of three (glued) and drilled through the center of them. I don't have a vice (I'm doing this in my apartment) so I held them with my clamp while drilling and it worked great.

    11389992_10103225759903124_9452070662892

     

    Now I made the tops to them by drilling another hole in a fourth square section and adding a screw. Then I put some glue on the bottom of the abs section, and screwed a nut onto the screw so that the glue glued the nut to the bottom of the ABS section. I used the screw so the glue wouldn't get inside of the nut ruining it, and so that my alignment would be perfect. I set these to dry.

    11389992_10103225759908114_2954967697920

     

    Then I removed the screw, checked that no glue ruined it. At this point I had four tops and four three stack bottoms:

    11377315_10103225762203514_4175358362940

     

    Now, I rescrewed in the screw and put the screw through the hole in the three stack I made. Then I glued the nut to the three stack.

    11377315_10103225762198524_7507090327381

     

    They look kinda ugly at this point, so I took them into the backyard and dremeled them to a more uniform look with the sanding attachment:

    11377315_10103225762208504_3462258101161

     

    Since the inside of my helmet is black, I painted them black (screw too):

    11377315_10103225762213494_8137786621020

     

    Finally, I glued them into the inside of the helmet to hold the lenses:

    11377315_10103225762218484_1544144411867

     

     

    When I get off work, I'll cut the lenses, heat them up to match the contour of the eyes (not bubble though) and drill at the correct attachment points. Then I'll install! 

  6. Thanks Andrew. I am definitely following your build thread during my work. I was a little hesitant to heat the left side, but I'm glad I did; it fits so much better now. 

     

    I'll try and follow your tip. That makes a lot of sense. I also have Gazmosis's ear tutorial open as well. 

     

    And I'll for sure keep track of which ear is which--its important! I am trying to label everything I can, but it's very easy to get mixed up with everything going on.

  7. So from the last post, we can see the left side (looking at it) had a problem with overlap:

     

    20086_10103222107073424_5354482545562421

    10341527_10103222107078414_7844506529294

     

     

    So today I went out to Home Depot and picked up a cheap 20 buck heat gun (and a rivet gun too!). 

    11391426_10103223005358254_6646136996745

     

    I put it on the low setting.. heated up very slowly from a good distance for about 10 seconds while lightly pressing on the other side while holding an oven mitt. This helped raise the bumpy part to the same plane as the rest of the helmet. Now that this was raised, it was very easy to connect the two sides with enough overlap.

    11390074_10103223005353264_7245542394978

     

     

    11391164_10103223005348274_3127789972328

     

    Now onto the ears!!

  8. So I took out all the screws, nuts, and washers from the ATA kit:

     

    1. 6 golden screws countersunk, washers, and nuts
    2. 2 larger shorter screws with washer and nuts
    3. 2 mic tips with large washers and nuts

     

    So I used the ATA screw marks and drilled my first two holes.

    532893_10103221878356774_360299901236193

     

    I repeated this on the other side. I didn't take too many pictures of the aligning stage because other tutorials did it so well and I'm doing this while watching a movie with the gf. But I aligned the inner angle of the trapezoid with the outer edge of the eyes. Once both sides were aligned, I made three marks on the face plate, and three corresponding marks on the back piece. At this time, I made a mark through the hole in the back piece onto the face plate. I didn't clamp it as I trusted my hands. Then I did the same on the other side. I drilled these out and adjoined the two using a screw and washer and nut. AND I'M SO GLAD I DID because guess what? I forgot a very important thing. When I attached them, I had a gap between the forehead and the top of the back piece (brow was not tight). So crap.

     

    I went back and held the brow as tight as I could and remarked the face plate, redrilled it, and then remounted it. Now everything looks SO MUCH BETTER.

    11010605_10103221931490294_4352178541121

    It's now tight!!!

     

    11391781_10103221931615044_1050436199300

    My redrilling. It's about the same on both sides. 

     

    11350542_10103221931495284_6806903155023

    Right side

     

    13970_10103221931505264_2417175990973056

    Left side. 

     

    The tough part now is the overlap. I'm VERY glad I didn't trim much on either side. The right side came first, and I was able to attach the bottom screw, but it had very little area to attach to. Do you think this will be a problem in the future?

    11252594_10103221975522054_4600019971436

    11377153_10103221975537024_2394892955950

     

    As for the left side (looking at it), they aren't quite aligned. 

    11351246_10103221975532034_2989081772732

    The picture is a little deceiving, but the back piece (left) is sitting higher then the right, so it appears to be further off than it is. Some tutorials have used a searing iron to move it into the correct place. I've never used one, so does anyone else have any other recommendations or tips on using one? I'll leave it at this point for tonight. I still need a rivet gun to attach them permanently, and I'd like to work on the inside a bit before I marry the two pieces together officially. Any feedback would be most appreciated. Thanks!

  9. 11012550_10103221322036644_3878191936919

    Now this is supposedly where things get serious. I trimmed the right side according to my cut lines in my last post. But the left side (looking at it) is where you need to trim less. So I only trimmed according to what Gazmosis recommended (again see the cut lines in the previous post)

     

    11021118_10103221322046624_6000585861316

    As you can see, I left a lot that wasn't trimmed (lots of bumpy parts). 

     

    11143561_10103221322041634_6046263059882

    Now here's where I'm at, with some gaps between the helmet and the face plate. Now to research how to close those! haha. 

  10. Okay, worked on it a little more over the weekend and here's where I'm at:

     

    11390179_10103221259511944_4319766690410

    I made my line across the forehead. Using Pandatrooper's build thread (among others) as a guide. I made this line 1.25" above the eyes. 

     

    11391257_10103221259521924_4795828099138

    Then I cut it! 

     

    11027506_10103221259516934_8976387797494

    At this point, I marked off the lines on the right (looking at it) side, and placed a hole punch right at the corner of my cut line and the trapezoid. This helps distribute stresses and prevents any cracking occurring at this point of high stress. I wanted to make it deep enough that my brow trim can reach the end of the trap as well. 

     

    9750_10103221260150664_20481316151606820

    Then I did the same for the other side. I marked off the areas to cut, but due to Gazmosis's thread, I DID NOT trim the sides (or under the neck) yet. I want to check the fit before I trim anything on the sides. 

     

    11390346_10103221260135694_3956064229370

    Going back outside, i trimmed with scissors and dremeled to get it perfect. 

     

    10284993_10103221260220524_7999446366308Again for the other side.

     

    11224536_10103221260784394_4886021265510

    Now, I have a flat, level brow, with no curve like the "Move Along" Trooper. 

     

    11392771_10103221260774414_6324620906445

    Next I trimmed the brow trim to the right length, trimming very slowly to make sure i have no wrinkles. I also like to have the ends follow the line of the trap. 

     

    10872756_10103221260954054_7568625122839

    And same for the other side. 

  11. Thanks Eric and Scott! 

     

    I'll agree on the dremel. I enjoyed it for cutting areas that I wouldn't quite reach with the hobby knife. I ordered the Lexan scissors from Amazon but haven't received them yet, but I foresee those being a major help in the future too.

     

    I've seen Gazmosis's build and he recommends leaving more room on the ears too. So I think I'll trim very little from there to start with. I'll work on it for a little today and see how far I can get.  

  12. I started my build and worked on it over the course of the this week. Here's some pictures and descriptions!

     

    11036495_10103206477101014_5299659767804

    So here's a picture of my Home Depot Order. The Dremel was easily my favorite purchase so far. 

     

    11233170_10103206477175864_9070192304419So first I painted the inside of the helmet black as so many members before me have done. I used krylon paint with primer built in. However, I was noticing a few areas had paint that was coming off easily, so I added a glossy clear coat over to seal in the color and make it really black. Now the paint wasn't going anywhere. 

     

     

    10682224_10103206477305604_3881511918288So next, I lmarked off the area of the eyes on the inside that I wanted to cut. The ATA armor has really nice reference lines, so I followed those pretty closely. 

     

    11263078_10103206477325564_4593739850969

    Using my handy-dandy dremel, and this awesome plastic cutting attachment, I started cutting the eyes a bit away from the lines I drew. I've learned to always remove less than you think, check, and then remove more little by little. This way I don't mess anything up. 

     

    11216596_10103206477395424_5322124192654So here's my first cut. As you can see it's further from my line, but I'll get closer to the line with a different attachment later. The cutter is only to remove large amounts of material.

     

     

    10733749_10103206477475264_6915437515322

    Now the eyes are cut out, but again, notice there's a gap between my pencil lines and where I used the saw. The blade also didn't cut too smoothly, so now I'll go in and clean up. 

     

     

    11148813_10103206477505204_7268770927885

    Using my sanding attachment, I can go in and get the eyes to match my lines by taking off small bits at a time. 

     

    11103068_10103206477560094_2498611986793

    Now I've matched my lines. At this point I'm happy with it, but the edges are still a little jagged. Also at this point, I used the sander to slightly remove some of the plastic on the backside of the teeth. 

     

    11022417_10103206477570074_1769104837841

    So I use some 150 grit sandpaper to smooth out the eye holes. 

     

    22797_10103206477639934_4488447772855154

    Now, I'm happy with the eyes. Smooth and perfect amount taken off!

     

    532918_10103206477669874_135836705115123

    And an image of the front (I also took a little more off of the teeth with the sander). 

     

    11061322_10103206477679854_4191210571292Now here was the hard part for me. Cutting the teeth with the exacto-knife was tough, so I ended up using a "scooping" method. I stuck the knife into the hole and used it to scoop plastic off the edge. It worked great, but it left the area with some little jagged edges (see the bottom of the teeth). So at this point I had to go out and get a emery board/nail file small enough to fit in that area. 

     

    11295715_10103206477694824_6249261683470

    I found this at my local Beauty Supply and it was 40 cents. It was perfect for the job!

     

    11329864_10103206545329284_9104348929184

    11230852_10103206545339264_8452484987995

    At this point I'm happy with the teeth. I may do a little cleanup more cleanup, but let me know if there's any changes I need to make. 

     

    11377077_10103206545334274_5420219506184

    So the eyes and teeth are done, onto the next steps of the helmet!!

     

    Tip so far: The dremel has been a lifesaver in terms of cutting and slowly removing mass from areas. I don't foresee it being this useful on the rest of the build, but for the helmet (and ears I hear), it's a necessity. 

  13. I really appreciate that. It's reassuring to hear someone say that it doesn't have to be perfect. I guess my worst fear is that that I cut everything, glue it together, and then people start saying "oh man, that doesn't look straight". But if people aren't going to say that, then cool, I'll try and stop being so picky. I'm working on the forearms right now, cutting little by little. I'll post again when I have some more progress (and pictures!)!

  14. Thanks for the tip on the sealing iron, ex507! That's probably a smart move. 

     

    I started cutting the shims out for the forearm first. From other tutorials I marked off a 5/8" shim and scored it with my razor. It took about 5-6 scores before I was able to bend it, and when I was finished, I realized it wasn't perfectly straight. Trusty, sandpaper came to rescue, and I used it to sand down the uneven section. I'm happy with how it looks now. I don't quite trust myself making a straight cut with scissors, so I tried using the ruler as a template, securing it with magnets, but as I cut, the blade attracted the magnets, causing it to shift a bit--and thus, my non-perfect cut. I've seen tutorials using the painters tape as an edge to follow, so maybe I'll try that next time. I've also seen people do the ruler method with clamps, but I saw on some tutorials that they recommend not clamping without something like a popsicle stick in between. Is that true?

     

    Oh and also, is there any difference between the sides of the ABS plastic? ATA labels them with a side B, but my side A is scratched to hell and back (arrived that way). So am I cool having side B facing front?

  15. Hi all, 

     

    Welcome to my first official build. I was lucky to get a friend's spot on ATA's waitlist, so my kit arrived much sooner than I expected! Everyone is so correct: it is very daunting on where to start. 

     

    So.... I decided to start by spending money! Off to Home Depot, Michael's, and Joann's! Here's a list of what I bought:

    1. 8 Metal Steel Clamps
    2. A Utility Knife and Blade Set
    3. Hobby Knife with various blades
    4. 4 three-packs of neodymium p52 magnets
    5. 150 grit sandpaper with a block to attach it to
    6. Black Industrial Velcro: 15 ft at 1 inch. 
    7. Blue Painters Tape
    8. Straight edge Ruler
    9. 3 sets of Heavy Duty Snaps 5/8 inches. (and all three stores I went to were sold out of the tool!!)
    10. Black Elastic: 2 inch
    11. Black Elastic: 1 inch
    12. White Elastic: 1 inch. 
    13. Dremel-3000 ( I have ALWAYS wanted one of these, so great excuse to get one).

    So I realized that Home Depot was expensive, but nice to see everything in person. However, they were missing a few things I needed. In the future I would just order from Amazon. So... what do I do next: SPEND MORE MONEY! So I went to Amazon this time.

     

    1. White Velcro 10' x 1" Industrial Strength
    2. Dritz Heavy Duty Snap Fastener Plier Kit (for 5/8")
    3. Lexan Body Scissors (two pack with curved and straight).. I hear these are very helpful. 
    4. 2 sets of 10 neodymium magnets 1/2" N48 (I realized I need WAY more of these to speed up the build). 
    5. G&F CutSheild "Butcher's Glove" (Safety First).
    6. 3 more sets of snaps (I wanted leftovers for my next build!)

    So let's see.. should I start building... or should I shop more? I voted shop more! So onto TrooperBay.com:

    1. Humbrol Admiral Gray Paint
    2. Humbrol French Blue Paint
    3. Humbrol Gloss Black (I didn't see the Satin Black.. do you think this will be a problem?)
    4. Humbrol White (i hear a coat of this over the painting templates help a lot)
    5. Paint Thinner Clear (for those mess ups on the templates)
    6. Trooper Helmet Masking Templates for ATA, Standard
    7. Accurate Nickle Split Rivets and Washers (I saw someone on here offer them too)
    8. Trooper Frown Screen
    9. White Flexible hand guards!!
    10. Accurate Gloves!

    So with that... I think I have just about everything I need. So should I start building yet? 

     

    Maybe?

     

    Haha, well it was late last night so I decided to make a few more fun purchases first. 

     

    On the forums, I have found some very helpful sale threads (like this one: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20869-combined-on-going-accessories-listing/).Also in the general classified I saw some cool things. So I picked up the following:

    1. Evil Boy fans for my bucket
    2. Evil Boy Thermal Detonator Clips
    3. 2 Sets of RedForce's Webbing Snap Plates (30 in each set; http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26931-webbing-snap-plates-30-piece-set/);also with 4 shoulder double snap pieces. 
    4. TKittell's canvas belt. White color. 
    5. E-11 Grade A with accurate D-ring and power cylinders from Hyperfirm (classifieds)
    6. DLT-19 Grade B from Hyperfirm (classifieds)

    After blowing about two paychecks, I think I'm good to go! The only remaining items I can think of are:

    1. Nice holster (I love Gazmosis's but he's not doing a run currently so I may wait).
    2. A good neckseal (I have an old one but may want to upgrade). 
    3. Boots (I emailed TK boots but he doesn't have any in stock currently). 

    So let me know if I'm missing anything, so I can pick it up. 

     

    While I was doing my buying, I was researching the hell out of this build. I think I read about 30 build threads. It was most helpful to see where people had problems and how the community came to their aid offering advice and suggestions. I started a nice word document of helpful tips I've been reading. I have pandatrooper's and gazmosis's build threads bookmarked, along TrooperBay's youtube series open, and a few others like MechaPumpkin and Russellr2d2 who have some nice detail in their posts. 

     

    So I guess all that's left is to start building. I would like to wait until my amazon order gets here as the Lexan scissors would be helpful and the butcher's glove would be safe, but I doubt I can wait that long. So I'll start on the forearms first and post some pictures soon. Thanks everyone and follow along if you'd like!

     

    -Taylor

     

    Tip so far: Research!! Learn from people's mistakes on what worked and what didn't before you buy anything. This will help in making decisions on how you strap things and how you are building. Also utilize the on-going runs. I originally had webbing in my Amazon cart for 15 bucks. Yeah it was 10 feet or so, but purchasing from RedForce saved me a little money and a lot of work, while still helping out the community. So utilize the community as much as you can. 

     

     

     

     

     

     

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