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Novak Dimon

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by Novak Dimon

  1. Part 7: Display Stand & Final To present my blaster adequately I needed a worthy display stand. I had an unused shelf im my storage room which had exactly the size I needed. At work I found some Plexiglas in the bin and I started to shape it with my dremel, handsaw and files: I sawed an imperial emblem... And after some more filing, polishing and painting It was completed. Here are some impressions of my E-11 Blaster rifle: IMHO it is looking not bad. I hope following my report was big fun for you. I enjoyed making it! I´m not absolutely sure what my next project will be. Converting a MG34 into a DLT-19 becomes more and more interesting... perhaps I make my armor first... I would love a TM-kit! Kind regards from Germany! Christian
  2. Part 6: t-tracks I ordered my set of t-tracks from Roy. For me, his tracks are the best mixture of accuracy and price. I tried several ways to find the perfect solution for me to shape the t-tracks. First I used the mini blowtorch, I used for soldering the Power Cylinders, to heat one track. But the flame is too hot and on the surface of the t-track appeared bubbles. Second I used a lighter. That worked better but I wasn´t happy with this way because the heated area is clearly visible and I need one hand to hold the lighter. So I tested my big blowtorch. After ignition I put it on the table and can use both hands to handle the t-tracks: the result was very satisfying. The tracks are heated very consistent without any visible traces of heat. And it is a quick way to heat them. To bend them I first used a 13mm socket but I had to correct the bending radius using my hands... well why use a tool anyway? Finally I shaped my t-tracks with my bare hands. They were not that hot to burn my fingers. During my research I read several comments that you have to wait some time befor reheating t-tracks. Well I didn´t have to do that. The ones Roy delivered had another interesting feature: I bend one to short. While heating it a second time it went back to its former shape by itself, allowing me to start again. Thats cool! To form the ends of the tracks, making them fit into the holes of the Sterling I used keyfiles. After some filing the first didn´t fit the way I wanted it. I thought "It might be more easy if the end is flexible." So I heated the end caerfully and pressed the now soft end into the hole and it fit perfectly. I just had to wait a moment until the part is hard and had a perfectly shaped t-track. Did it with all the t-tracks. Saved lot of time! Then I glued the t-tracks onto the Sterling, using E6000. The smell of this stuff is breathtaking but the result is great! Yes, the worse the smell the better the glue! The same with cleaner! First I wanted to leave the t-tracks unpainted but It looked not very nice. So I painted them with a paintbrush. Here you can see the difference: And here completely painted: Here some impressions of the Blaster with the t-tracks. Perhaps I will install the cable between the Power Cylinders and the Counter later. Actually I´m building an adequate display stand! After finishing I´ll make a proper photoshoot! I wish you all a great weekend! Christian
  3. Thank you Andy for the compliment! I painted them close to your description and pictures to make them as accurate as possible.
  4. Part 5: Cutting the ammo clip Sunday night I was sitting in front of my TV and started to shorten the ammo clip to E11 size. Prior to I checked a lot of pictures and read some tutorials. Finally I decided to cut the clip after the 4th circle. Primary task: stripping the clip... Then I marked the final lengh with some tape and cut it with a hack saw.: I simply broke off the small pieces. I just had to bend them two times and they were gone. I bend the long sides with my multigrip pliers. I then cut the sides with a small "Puk"-saw and made them fit with some files afterwards. This took some time but at the end everything is fitting perfectly. Thats my status quo now: View through the scope: I got my t-tracks today from Roy that´s the next task. Kind regards from Germany! Christian
  5. Part 4: Painting of Rail und Counter After finishing the scope-rail I used last weekends perfect weather to paint the rail and counter. First I stripped the Hengstler completely: I had some luck when I disassembled the viewing panel of the counter. It was not glued. After pressing onto it with a screwdriver vigorously it popped out right into my hands. Next step: prime coating: The next day I sanded the parts carefully and painted the parts with dark grey hammertone. Obeying the instructions I applyed one layer every 15 minutes. Three times the hammertone and then another three layers of flat black: Another day later the paint was dry and I made the weathering. I used what was left of the cable rail I used to make the scope rail and some grinding fleece to make the parts looking used. Real scratches are the very best for a truly worn look!
  6. Scope Rail I wanted to make the scope rail myself. I begun early to look after the raw material. Like the originals It had to be made of 2 or 3 mm thick steel. And I wanted the scope rail and the counter bracket to be one single piece. I found a promising looking piece of cable rail in the scrap. I used it to hold the power Cylinders during painting them. That´s why black paint is on the rail. After measuring the Sterling I build a model of cardboard. That was fitting well and I startet to cut the average shape of the rail out of the cable rail, using an angle grinder and a jigsaw. Then I used a file to correct the size and shape and form the bending radius more cornered. To bend the front and back I used a multigrip pliers. Then I had to drill the holes and a M3 thread. I made the threads of the counter prior to the holes in the bracket. I used a cordless drill driver to make that job. Was easier than I thought. The top holes (the bottom ones on the picture. ) are slotted holes for adjusting the position of the Hengstler Counter. The fore hole for the scope is a slotted hole also to equalize the scope with the sights of the Sterling. I had to countersink the holes for the Hengstler Counter because the Counter should be as close to the Sterling as possible. That´s why I need the screw heads flush-mounted. Test assembly: During my research I didn´t find any detailed drawing of a Scope Rail. So I decided to make one myself and post it here. Might be helpful for someone else. More and bigger pictures are found in my Blaster-Gallery: http://www.novakdimon.de/Novak%20Dimon%C2%B4s%20E11/index.html Cheers Christian
  7. My first impression was kind of WOW! That´s the real thing!! I´m really happy that I found a gunsmith who made the deactivation the way I asked. And now after I´ve seen the completed Cylinders at the Sterling I´m convinced to keep the Sterling as it is until everyting is finished. Cheers Christian
  8. Power Cylinder final Yesterday I was back from my work early, so I used the time to complete my Power Cylinders. At the beginning the small resisters demanded soldering onto the UBER-Caps. To get that done I used some flux to glue a piece of solder right onto the joint and heated all together with a soldering iron. Perhaps not the most professional way but I think the result speak for itself. By the way, that´s how I soldered all connections. When all parts were assembled I had to paint everything. In the forum of the german garrison the member Vadier posted a great conversation WIP. I used the same spray paint he used. It is a flat black for use on unpaintet metal. Alien from his tutorial I decided not to use primer do reduce the thickness of the paint. Besides my tests on zinc plated steel prooved that I can use it that way. Ok, for the handrail of a balcony primer is indispensable but I don´t plan to store my Power Cylinders outside in the rain. After the painting I weatered the Cylinders through realistic strain with miscellaneous objects, I found on my workbench. I proudly present my selfmade Screen Accurate Power Cylinders: Test assembly on my Sterling: I´m really happy with the final result. Besides the process of making the Cylinders is big fun! I truly recommend it!! I uploaded a lot more pics to my gallery: http://www.novakdimon.de/Novak%20Dimon%C2%B4s%20E11/index.html That´s it for today. Kind regards from Germany! Christian
  9. Nice photos of your cleaned Sterling. Eventually I do the same with mine.
  10. I'm glad you like what I made of your kit until now. I'll do my best to keep it that way. Thank you for your point of view about the Sterling. I'm really unsure about what to do. I like the used look but isn't it too much? I guess it's really the best way to put everything together and then see how it's looking. Actually it's to cold for a good paint job anyway. Kind regards Christian
  11. Hi, pictures of my Sterling are now found in my own Blaster thread. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29911-novak-dimons-sterling-conversation/?st=20
  12. Hi, On friday the heart of my future E11 arrived: the deactivated Sterling. It took longer then expected but I wantet to find a gunsmith that makes the deactivation as concealed as possible. The most difficult part here was the deactivation of the trigger mechanism. Because its lengh the Sterling L2A3 is a so called short weapon in germany and the trigger mechanism must be deactivated. Most sellers simply weld the trigger onto the handgrip. I didn´t want it that way but finally I found someone who disabeled the trigger internally so it is invisible and still moving. Even the safety is still working. But pictures say more then 1000 words. Thats how it arrived: Disassambeled and after some cleaning: I´m thinking about puting a thin layer of paint onto the Sterling because the original paint is nearly completely gone. Or should I leave it the way it is? What do you think? I will be happy to read your opinion. Now I will continue cleaning it and then complete my Power Cylinders. Best regards from Germany! Christian
  13. Congratulations for finding that M19! My Sterling arrived yesterday and it's really cool! I took it apart and cleaned it instantly, took some photos too. But had no time to upload them. Planned that for tomorrow... hope my boss don't ring me again tomorrow morning. I'm on call this weekend and was working today all the time. I already checked Andy's thread about the display stands. They are cool but I want to make one myself. At the moment I'm working on my Power Cylinders. The kit is from Andy PlayfulWolfCub and making them is big fun! Cheers Christian
  14. Hi Dougal, The screw is to fix the plastic cover of the counter. There is one screw on the top and one at the bottom. Check the pics of my unpainted Hengster in my gallery: http://www.novakdimon.de/Novak%20Dimon%C2%B4s%20E11/Hengstler%20Counter/index.html Cheers Christian
  15. This is a nice Blaster! Well done! Cheers Christian
  16. Great pictures! Today my own deac will be delivered I'm really excited and can't wait to hold it in my hands! Cheers Christian
  17. The last days I learned how to zinc plate things like the Power Cylinders. First I had to find a suitable power source. Unfortunately the railway-transformer of my son, I planned to use, makes AC instead of DC. So I used an old PC power supply unit. After learning the do´s and dont´s of galvanic zinc plating my Cylinders are looking quite nice: Today I started to attach the UBER Capacitators. Thats it for today. More pictures are found in my Gallery: http://www.novakdimon.de/Novak%20Dimon%C2%B4s%20E11/index.html Kind regards from Germany Christian
  18. Hi Troopers, last Sunday I spent some time at my workbench to continue my soldering works on the Power Cylinders and today I like to share my results. Finding the best way to dose the right amount of solder needed a couple of attempts. Finally I used a mini-blowtorch for all works with fitting-solder and flux. Some connections needed some finishing with keyfiles, sand cloth and abrasive cleaning mat. But have a look yourself: The drops of solder at the bottom of the end caps appeared during the soldering... and then I thoroughly removed them. When I checked the pictures of the original cylinders: they have to be there!! So I ignited the blowtorch again and melted new drops. I´m glad that this is an easy job. Next thing is cutting the ends of the screws and then zinc plate the Cylinders >>>To be continued>>>
  19. Well, I'm still waiting for it. And until it is here I prepare all the other parts.
  20. When I returned home from night-shift today at 6:20 AM my plan was to sleep at least until 2 PM. But the chimney sweeper was so kind to wake me up at half past ten. I know: leaving the doorbell switched on was my own fault! Once awake I choose to set up my workbench for soldering. And after having everything prepared ... well why not try to solder one small piece. And so I soldered the small mounting nut onto the base plate, a job I finished quite nicely at the second attempt. It's almost looking like made by someone who's knowing how to do such things. At my first attempt I drowned the nut in solder... surely caused by the lack of sleep! Now I have to go to work. I will continue at the weekend. Kind regards Christian
  21. Part 2: Power Cylinders Last week my Power Cylinder-Kit from Andy PlayfulWolfCub arrived at my place. The kit is made super accurate and detailed. Two of the end caps and the base plate are zinc plated, great for screen accurate weathering. Though I want to zinc plate the Cylinders completely after soldering like the original ones. Today I started with the inner cylinders. The original ones were made of ceramic and that's how I want mine lolling like too. At the beginning I sanded and cleaned them: Then applied primer: I choose a flat brick-red color to paint them. When the first coat was almost dry I applied some fine sand with some paint to get a ceramic-like rough surface. That's how it was looking: After drying I applied a final coat of paint and then some weathering, using black and white paint. IMHO the result is quite close to the original parts, made by Andy: That's it for today. Next time I'll start the soldering. Kindest regards from Germany! Christian
  22. Hi Andy, that's really interesting. Thanks for the post! I thought the tank crew was just looking through the other side of the scope.
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