justjoseph63

Hola! I received my DLT-19 from Slavefive recently, and it looks, well, AWESOME! I noticed on several of the build threads however that there is a "reload handle", which I would like to add to it. Also, in the CRLs, it said that it needs to have "an ejection port cover added and a small disk on the left side". I am still learning, so I am not certain this weapon actually has the last 2 items or not. Any info., especially detailed photos of these particular items and their placement would me most appreciated. THANKS!!

I think you have this one nailed, Tim! Wow... that E-11 sure looks familiar...

This is the last piece in my puzzle. All is complete except for these danged shoulder straps! Shooting for Centurion here, so they have to be perfect...

It's funny you should say that Mathias, because the exact same thing ran through my mind, so I did end up leaving a small gap around the upper eye for ventilation. Hardly (I hope Steve isn't reading this ) noticeable. I will edit the post I made on this.. GOOD CALL!

Hi all! Just discovered something on a trip to Lowe's, it's called SUGRU. It is a glue that you can knead like Play-Doh, and worked perfectly for attaching the hard lenses inside my bucket. It comes in small packets of 4, and was located on the paint-desk counter. Since the inside return edges (pre-cut) on my eye openings were not symmetrical, I thought this might work, and it certainly did. You just knead it for a few seconds, roll it into a strip, place it around the edge, put the lens where you want it, and press it up against both tightly. Like E-6000, it takes a 24 hours to dry, though, (as if we aren't all used to this), but it does not drip or run! The only thing is that I would recommend that you check the outside of the eye opening right after, in case some gets squeezed through, and wipe the lenses immediately. I did find that although it adheres really well, it is MUCH easier to get off than E6K. Hope this helps someone! Addendum: (Thanks to Locitus, It is advisable to leave a small gap somewhere around the lenses to allow for air flow, so that they will not fog-up.

Wow.. Didn't mean to open a can of worms here, but enjoying the lively discussion! First, please don't take this the wrong way, because I thoroughly appreciate all your advice, but I ended up doing something completely different. I went to Lowe's to buy the small screws to attach the lenses, and stumbled upon something called SUGRU. It is a glue that has the consistency of Play-Doh. Since the inside returns on my eye holes were not symmetrical, I decided to give it a try. I was able to mold it around the outside of the lenses and inside return edge, (SUPER easy), but, like E6000, it takes 24 hours to dry. It is holding like a champ. Again, thank you for all the input!!!!!! BTW, I am going to post this "discovery" in hopes that it may give another option to a fellow newb.

PERFECT information! I just checked out Steve's build, and since I have some leftover ABS, I am going to go that direction, but thank you ALL for the advice!

Never quite got to my goal of "All master of time, space, and dimension", so I became a sailor, then an artist/muralist, then a restaurateur, then a chef, and now I own a construction/remodeling company. Thinking about making a tool pouch out of ABS for my armor, and showing up at a clients door dressed as a TK. Just can't seem to figure out how to make a butt crack in my posterior plate.

I have a question for anyone who has trooped at Disney before... I should (knock wood ABS) be TK and HWT approved by then, but was wondering if it would be wise to go HWT, as I am not sure how long the actual troop is. Any advice?

Getting down to the nitty gritty now... I need some guidance on the best way(s) to install my hard plastic lenses if I may... I have checked a LOT of the tutorials, and they seem to use the long "film" type, and I am kind of stuck. I have dry fit, but not attached the faceplate yet, as I wanted to Plasti-dip it, (done), install the mesh for the teeth, (done), and I figured this would be easier to do this where I could see it better before putting everything together. I am leery of using super-glue, as I don't want it running onto the ABS or the lenses themselves. If anyone knows of a tutorial, or has any advice, I would really appreciate it. Many thanks...

Yes, Doopydoos works in mysterious ways... Ordered my Hasbro kit on ebay, took 9 days. Ordered my full E-11 kit straight from them, 6 weeks. I am thinking it has something to do with eBay's "feedback" policy. If you haven't already, I would use the wait time to get everything ready for your build.

Nice fix! I think you definitely dodged a bullet on that one... I have experienced a few small cracks myself, but nothing noticeable. One of the best tips I learned on here is that any sharp angle (like when I cut out the notches for my kidney armor) are a prime target for splits/cracks, so I rounded out the corner ever so slightly and re-enforced the backside with some spare ABS.

Yes, I think I will try to grab some extra ABS and experiment before trying it on the armor. Many thanks for the info!!!

Thank you so much, gentlemen!

Thanks for this post, Terry! I am toward the end of my AM 2.0 build, and this is one of the last things I have to do, so if anyone can help, THANKS!

I think we have all shared a bit of blood with our armor at some point.

Hi! I have to trim down the sides of my chest plate, and was wondering if I needed to re-add the return edge. Also, is it permissible to trim down the return edge on my lower thighs and top rear portions of the shin guards, (for comfort)? Thanks!

If you mean the outer pieces of the biceps, yes, they are symmetrical. The insides of the forearms are different, and be SURE to read RogueTrooper's thread about AM armor shins in the tutorials section, located in the top right hand portion of the main page. It kept me from making a huge mistake. One thing I did learn about the biceps, is to make the opening as small as possible, and still accommodate easy movement. I made mine a bit large, and it caused my shoulder bells to shift backward. Still working on my AM 2.0 build, and have learned this mantra... "measure three times, cut once, use lots of blue tape to fit, and then use E6000.

Will give that a try! Can you re-size photos on Photobucket? Thanks very much for the info!!!

Just got one from slavefive today. Awesome! Thanks for all the help!!

I would try washing it, and then soaking it in white vinegar for a minute or two. Then rinse and air dry. This will "set" the color, and should stop it bleeding.

Hi! I have noticed that for some reason the size of files (photos) that can be uploaded is going down. I believe it was about 30 something, then 20 something, and now it says the max is 11.76 KB. Am I doing something wrong? I have tried to resize them at a website, but they won't go that small. Thanks for any help!!

The great thing about the armor is that it looks as if I actually have leg muscles! Which way to the beach?!!

Hey Matthew, just went through this, too, with my AM bucket. You will need 2 strong clamps, and it would be helpful to have 8 or 10 rare earth magnets covered in tape (so they don't scratch). Apply the E6k, and clamp the ends to where they match evenly on both sides). Then attach your magnets around the perimeter. be SURE you have a "lip" on the bottom half where they meet, to assure a tight fit. Don't worry too much if you get a bit of glue that runs out... just wipe it while still wet, and use your finger to rub off any remaining haze after it dries.

I just had this same exact problem with my AM shins, (I am also blessed with small legs). If you could post photos of the top, back, and front view it would help. What I ended up doing worked, but this being my first build I am far from an expert, and don't want to steer you wrong. There are many on here who will, and pics would help immensely.