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Deployment Officer[Staff]
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Posts posted by justjoseph63

  1. 27 minutes ago, Ebio Amisi said:

    a) With the Hovi Mic painting, is it just the tips or the interior of the mics as well?  For ANH Stunt, the entire interior and the rims.


    B) if it is the interior is painted as well, does that mean the whole interior or just the sides?  Yes sir.

    c) with the hand plates, what would be best used to glue them back down? e6000 glue? Would it help to heat them and move them back into shape first with a hair dryer?

    I would (pardon the pun) stick with E-6000.  CA (super) glue can get brittle over time and the bond can fail (again).

    d) what is the best way to remove excess paint from the helmet? Rubbing alcohol? Scalpel blade? Something else? This is to fix the paint around the gums

    Any non acetone paint remover, some cotton swabs, toothpicks and a few paper towels should do the trick.  If you take off too much, you can always re-paint the edges.  You really don't need a lot taken off, so it should go pretty quickly!



    While you have your paints out, I would suggest extending the paint on the ridges(2nd from the outside ones) just a bit. ;)


    JQ6woax.jpg?2             748AVDU.jpg?2  rX5Pzz4.jpg?1



  2. Hi Matt, and thank you for your submission for EI!  One of us will be with ya' shortly, sir, but before we can get started we can get started we just need you to post up the pics and show a little love to the teeth paint as Glen mentioned.

    That is actually pretty easy to do.. Just use non-acetone paint remover, some toothpicks, cotton swabs and a paper towel or two.  Should take you all of 15 minutes or less.

    Looking forward too seeing the results and your new photos!  :salute:


    ELKjERG.jpg    dJwWRvS.jpg

    • Like 2
  3. I'll be moving back to FL. for good in a few months, so I will need new trading cards to replace my current ones.  I have a new design in mind and the images, but I need someone to lay it out for the printer.  

    If you have mad design skills and a bit of patience (with me, lol) please drop me a PM.  Payment for your services can be cash (via PayPal) or swag.



  4. 14 minutes ago, MintImperial said:



    Just dropped something on my TD and scratched the paint as I was about to take a photo!

    Battle damage.... not to worry.


    Button plate is not stuck on yet so I’m holding it in place. 

    Brackets are positioned so that the TD sits above the top of the canvas belt.

    Can you post up some pics?


  5. Hi Nichole, and welcome to the FISD!   You are definitely in the right place for all things TK related.  What I would suggest is that before purchasing anything, have a chat with your father about exactly what type of armor he is interested in (i.e. which film) as there are a lot to choose from as seen in the CRL Glen gave you a link to.  Many may look similar, but there are distinct differences.  Even in the first film there are 2 types, "Stunt" as worn by most TKs (the most popular costume in the Legion) and "Hero" as worn by Han and Luke.   


    Once the particular costume is decided on, we have a ton of references, build threads and hundreds of fine folks to help you and/or your dad every step of the way on your white armor journey.  


    Choosing the right armorer is very important.  The vast majority of the costumes you find online (like ebay) are not 501st approvable, sad to say, so the vetted seller's list is your best bet.  Since you may be purchasing the helmet first, I suggest using the same armorer for the rest of the costume as many times the color of the ABS plastic used may vary slightly from maker to maker.


    Know that we are here to answer any questions you may have, no matter how small... all ya' have to do is ask!

  6. Hi Tarkan, and thanks for your submission!  One of us will be with you shortly, sir.  While you wait, we need a favor.. As per the CRL for EI

    Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide

    It will be a bit of a pain, but we need you to suit up and take some new pics (both sides) with your belt tightened a bit to close that gap some.  It doesn't have to be EXACTLY half an inch (or less) so no need for a ruler, lol.  THANKS!




    • Like 2
  7. Glad to know that you found something to bond them with, so they are definitely not silicone.  Note that Loctite Plastics Bonder is CA (super) glue and is pretty brittle when it cures.  Because the guard and gloved flex when worn, it may be a good idea to keep an eye on the edges down the road in case the bond starts to fail in those areas and it starts to lift off.  A little separation on the sides is expected, though.


    As for painting them, I wouldn't worry about it at this point in time.  I believe they do contain at least some amount of latex, though, which naturally yellows with age and exposure to sunlight.  This is not a big deal, but if they get too yellow, painting them would certainly be an option (the originals were painted latex).


    9Qhu2k5.jpg   8w8WL3A.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. Really glad to see that you went with the "double snap" method, Steve.  Pretty much guarantees that nothing will ever come apart during a troop!


    Since the black nylon straps that hold the shoulder bells to the shoulder bridge elastic are normally 1" wide, you can still use the double snap method on these as well.  Just be sure to put a piece of elastic under the snaps on the white elastic for some added strength (blue arrow).  Paint the tops white and you are in business!




    • Like 1
  9. I got one for my armor bin from here.  The size is 11" x 4", which is large enough to cover the raised HUSKY logo on the top.  The seller makes them to order, and you can get the letters/numbers in English or Aurebesh.

  10. In looking at the screen used ones below, the sheen is minimal (this could be from lots of use, though). ;)  However, the pic on the far right shows that there was a reflection, even if it is only slight.  I think you will be fine with semi-gloss.  Just try to make sure the total width (with caps attached) stays very close to 7 ½ inches (190 mm).


    VF5c0SA.jpg?1  1z8XJu8.jpg?1  08UR2U4.jpg

    • Like 1
  11. I have a few tutorials under my avatar below which will help as well, the main one is the supply list for your build (link here).  AM makes an awesome kit, and I look forward to following your build!  If I could offer some advice, it would be:


    1.  Take... your... time.  Rushing leads to mistakes.  Trust me.


    2.  When in doubt, always ask before cutting/gluing.  Adding photos of any issues will help a LOT!


    3.  Never be shy about asking questions, no matter how small or how many.  To quote Glen, "There are no silly questions, only silly mistakes".

    • Like 2
  12. Looking sharp, Bobby!  As you mentioned, there are always a few tweaks here and there, and nothing jumps out too much.. mostly strapping issues.  I know it was your first time suiting up, but to add to what Steven mentioned, I would suggest:


    1.  The ABS belt should come up quite a bit.  I see that the snaps are there, but Velcro will work as well.


    2.  If possible, the shoulder bells could come in to where the tops touch the shoulder bridges.  If not, no biggie.


    3.  The biceps definitely need to come up.  They should not overlap the forearm.




    4.  I noticed that your sniper knee is getting caught behind the bottom of the thigh.  A common problem that can be remedied by adding a foam strip behind the top of the calf (along the seam) to help push it out. 




    5.  The thighs look a little low and uneven.  These can be raised, which would also help with the sniper knee plate overlap. ;)


    zr91sG1.jpg?2        MbpWQ7h.jpg?3


    These are just suggestions, but they will definitely give you a better, more screen accurate look.  If you need help with anything, just let us know!



    • Like 4
  13. Well, the 3D weapon build bug has bitten and next up on the agenda is an ROTJ E-11.  I found the best version I can (link here) but it will need definitely need quite a few modifications.  Most I can do myself or order the parts (like a textured grip), BUT...


    The U channels on the barrel are not the correct design and have more of a square shape like this:  2xy1i9m.jpg?1


    This is probably a VERY tall order, but to stay true to the originals I am looking for a source for actual U shaped ones.  As seen in the first pic, some were almost a semi-circle (1) but most had the taller sides (2).  Metal would be preferred, but 3D printed ones would work. ;)


       XACuwiN.jpg?1  yKJvbrU.jpg?1   e4OcqXF.jpg?1


    Any help in sourcing these or any other more screen accurate parts would be most appreciated.  Thanks in advance!





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