justjoseph63

A friend with a welding torch managed to get the end of the muzzle removed from the shroud, and I filed down the inside. I purchased a metal replacement from the Blaster Factory and added a metal tube to simulate the interior barrel. After more filing and a few choice curse words, it fits! The magazine was missing the arc on the side and the metal post/grub screw. Some scrap ABS, a piece of an aluminum rod and a replacement screw did the trick.

OK, folks, as mentioned in the title this will be my final (OT) E-11 build. Before I begin, let me give you a little background: This blaster was gifted to me by a dear friend who actually received it from a fellow trooper who has unfortunately passed on, and it needed some attention. The person who did the mods obviously had great intentions, but there were some issues which I have done my best to address. Keep in mind that during the time it was created it was a work of art, but with the advent of detailed screen caps and such I have tried my best to do it justice. Side note: I have been working on this for over a year off-and-on. Is it 100% screen accurate? Nope. After receiving it I dove into research on Airsoft E-11s, and found more than a few inconsistencies (mentioned later). I'm just doing my best to make it as close to screen accurate as I can, so bear with me.... Now, on with the show. This is how it looked when I started. Great in it's day, but just so many issues. 1. Copper tubing power cylinders 2. Wrong Selector switch 3. Shroud has a piece of black PVC glued inside. 4. Wrong muzzle. 5. Missing pieces on the magazine . I will have to strip it down to bare parts as best as I can. The first thing I had to do was remove the black PVC interior in the shroud, which was blocking all the holes. I drilled them out but it looked terrible. I ended up using a blow-torch to melt the PVC. It removed the interior as well as any chance of grass growing in my future patio area, but I am pleased with the results. Here comes the most difficult part. The previous builder had WELDED some sort of odd muzzle on, Sort of like an ESB, but not quite, so It's gotta' come off and be replaced. Ugh. The end of the shroud was not too pretty either. I cut off the muzzle and was left with this: To Be Continued!

Welcome to the FISD, Tony.. you are in the right place for all things TK related! The list of "vetted" (tried and true) armorers that Glen provided the link for will get you started, and once you decide which one you will go with I can suggest a few things: While waiting for your kit (this can take up to 4-6 weeks normally) start your research. If there is something you can't find or have a question about, just ask! When you finally get your kit, start a build thread. This will help immensely! You can ask all the questions you like (the more the better) and post lots of photos of your progress. Speaking of posting photos, this is especially important if you have an problem. It's much easier for us to help if we can see what the issue is. Adding pics to your thread is actually pretty easy, and I have a tutorial here which will help. While you hurry up and wait for BBB (big brown box) day, get all of your build supplies in order. It's better to have them on-hand rather than having to run out and get something in the middle of your build. If you are building an Original Trilogy trooper, this thread will come in handy. Take..... your.... time. Don't rush your build. Trust me on this one. Lastly, know that we are here to help every step of the way, so never be shy about asking us anything!

Quick tip: Some "Goof-Off" stain remover and a few paper towels will get rid of the writing on the rubber gloves. Takes about 4 minutes to do both. One thing that jumped out was the connection in your forearm piece. One has an interior cover strip but the other one could use one as well, as there seems to be quite a gap. (Just a little added insurance so that it doesn't pop apart at some point).

SUPER nice job on this armor, Rodrigo! A few small items here and there, but I am sure you can get those sorted out quickly. Although the black outlines around the traps, tears and ear bars are among the best I have ever seen (it's always great to see hand-painted ones) the traps could be enlarged a bit to completely fill in the recessed areas. Not sure if the D.O.s will have an issue with it, but something to consider to be a little closer to screen accuracy. Awesome job on painting the vertical lines as well, but the are a tiny bit too tall. Keep up the great work, and I hope to see that EI badge under your name soon!

Voted!

Cameo(?) by Adam Conover!

Oops..

Looking great, Jeremy! As for "...everything seemed great aside from one little bit sticking up but I put some extra magnets on there and left it overnight, although I might have to put a wee bit of glue on later if it still doesn't stick all the way", a way to help prevent this (and the strip popping loose in the future) is to use interior cover strips as well on joins that don't lay flat for added strength. You should have scraps from your trimming and these are perfect for this. They don't have to be pretty, as no one sees them anyway! Two areas I strongly suggest adding these strips to are the inside fronts of the shins. Those seams get a lot of wear and tear from opening and closing when putting your armor on, so a little reinforcement will help prevent any issues. You shouldn't need them on all the joins, and yeah it takes a bit longer to glue them in but well worth it.

NICE work, Gerald!

Welcome to the boards, Mathew! Once you have decided on which TK costume you would like, then it's time to select an armorer. I'd advise steering clear of ebay and the like and go with one of our "vetted" sellers (link here). Many if not most of those found on online sites may seem like a good deal, but end up being poor quality and not 501st Legion approvable. When in doubt, ask us! Be aware that most of our vetted sellers do not make the kits for a living, but as a sideline. Wait times can range from a few weeks to a month or more, but that is actually a good thing! While waiting for BBB (Big Brown Box) day you can research the build threads here for your particular costume, ask LOTS of questions and get your build supplies in order. That way once your kit shows up you can get started right away. Never be shy about asking questions.. as many as you like. We have an entire Detachment here with lots of great folks who are ready to help at every step.

Welcome to the forums, Kira! You are in the right place for all things TK related, and you have been given some great advice by the previous posters. As mentioned, you first have to decide which one you want to be, as we have 20 to choose from (link here for details). Another thing to consider is who you purchase from. We have a list here of our "vetted" (tried and true) sellers, and a few of them do commission builds. Steer clear of sellers on ebay or the like, as the vast majority are inferior and not 501st approvable. When in doubt, ask us! Once you have chosen your character, we can assist with everything else. Always, always feel free to ask as many questions as you like. We are here to help every step of the way (it's what we do best)!

Welcome to the FISD, Erick! Lots to research to do while you "hurry up and wait" for your WTF kit, so feel free to dive right in. We have a LOT of info. available here and sometimes it can seem a bit confusing, but always feel free to ask as many questions as you like... we are here to help every step of the way. If I could offer some advice it would be: 1. Take.... your....time, and don't rush your build. Trust me. 2. The link to the list that Glen supplied will help immensely, but again, ask us if you need help. It's what we do best! 3. While you wait for your WTF kit, get your supplies in order. I have a thread here which will help. Having things at the ready will make life easier. 4. Once you get your kit, start a build thread and post LOTS of pics. Posting photos is really important, especially when you have an issue. This thread will help. 5. Know that we are here for you! Looking forward to seeing your white armor journey!

Yeah, didn't realize that until I got a text right after from Dave re: the rivets and such.

You read my mind, Tino. Like yourself, Glen, Sergiu and others I have studied countless screen caps and official references of E-11s. Those T-tracks are not original. Period. Close, but no cigar. The "metal" weathering and ends (as you mentioned) are custom made and do not bend into the holes in the shroud. Correct me if I'm wrong, but has anyone else seen the T-tracks on each side of the bayonet lug? I certainly haven't. Not sure how they can claim that the only replacement is the scope rail. They should realize how many of us S.W. weapons nerds will notice.

Yeah, I would definitely leave some of the return edges on the tops of the shins, Dale. One thing I would HIGHLY suggest is to add a cover strip inside each of the front seam of the shins. It doesn't have to be pretty (no one sees it) and you can use scraps from your build to do this. The reason for this is that that those seams get a lot of wear and tear from being opened/closed when suiting up. Looking great so far... keep up the nice work and keep those questions (and pics) rolling in!

How did I know that was coming, LOL.

My first kit was an ebay purchase from M.O.T. before I knew about the 501st/FISD. Horrible armor, and the bucket is HUGE. I ended up building it for the experience (while waiting on my AM kit) and ended up selling it on ebay for a small profit.

As mentioned, your armor pieces are held together via a strapping system and are not attached to the undersuit. The late great Daniel (TK 42911) has a fantastic video (link here) which shows the full process. As for the smelly factor, I keep a stash of sanitizing wipes in my armor bin, and I wipe down the inside of each piece before placing it back in. The undersuit can (and should) be washed after each use.

Overall a really nice job on this build, Steve! With a few tweaks here and there I can certainly see this armor at Centurion level for sure. If I may add to what Glen mentioned, it would be: As per the CRL, the paint on the teeth should be dialed back a bit. Yes, before anyone mentions it there were certain ESB buckets where the paint extends a bit farther, but for higher levels (which I hope you will be aiming for) it's better to stick to what is written in the CRL. Some non-acteone paint remover and a few toothpicks should clean them up nicely/ Your right shoulder bell connection is spot-on... touching the shoulder bridge. However, the left side should be the same. Shortening the strap will take care of this. Looks like you are missing a few rivets on the ab plate, and the existing ones will need a few coats of white paint. Although not a requirement for Basic, I would suggest bringing your drop boxes out a bit. The outside edge should line up the end of the ABS belt. I can tell that you put a lot of time and thought into this build, Steve, and it shows! An afternoon of refining a few details and you will be golden. Once you are approved, I expect to see your application for Expert Infantry and then Centurion!

I think it looks phenomenal, Tristan. No trace of the glue residue, and those lines are super sharp! Glen @gmrhodes13 has a post (link here) in my imgur tutorial which may help if you are using a smart phone. You may want to reach out to him for more help if needed.

Looks like you are getting the image into your imgur library ok, but are you using the Direct Link to post it? I have posted an edited version of it below, and that came out GREAT, Tristan! Nice thinking outside the box!

Nothing quite like opening up a big box of fresh plastic! Looking forward to your build, sir!

What you have there should be just fine and dandy, Tim. Just cut the corners as seen below and you are golden. When you get around to the screw covers, I highly suggest trimming off ALL the return edges. The sides should lay flat against the ABS belt with no raised edges.

Do you have a link to the site that you ordered it from? Seeing some photos would help determine whether it would pass at Centurion. I have seen a few different versions of the Airsoft, but you should compare them by vendor. One I looked at ($350.00, below) has a few discrepancies- most of which can be rectified, though. Bear in mind that I am a bit of a weapons accuracy snob, so take this for what it's worth. 1. Back half of the Hengstler is missing 2. Bottom of grip is more squared than rounded. Not the biggest of deals by far. 3. Screw attachment is rounded on the left side and recessed. Again, not a deal breaker IMO. 4. Spiral wire was used for promo blasters, not those seen onscreen. (Some folks like em' but I've never been a fan). T-tracks are too short and need to cover all the holes. A replica Hengstler counter and T-tracks can be purchased of course, but for that price I would look elsewhere, but that's just me. I can appreciate the fact that you don't want a 3D printed version, but I once trooped with a friend's full metal version and my arms were worn out after a few hours, and I can't even imagine trying to wear it in a holster.. too heavy. An alternate would be one from Questdesign. IMO the best manufactured replica available. Not the cheapest (about $200.) but certainly the most accurate. Made of cast resin, they have a bit of heft but not too much.