Khazid

Instead of white paint for the tube stripes try crystal clear nail polish. Thin the polish with a non-acetone thinner if you want (testors airbrush thinner is great). White enamel is hard to match abs, but crystal clear is good to go. Just go light with it, only need it to seal your stencil.

I got my batteries from Amazon. If I can find a link for the item number I will post it for you tonight.

Build Log – 6/22-6/28 – Legs Not many updates to provide, this week I had to travel out of town for work. Oh, and the family had a Disneyland outing on the 27th. Heh. First up was the trimming of the calves and the leg accessories. In the picture here you can see the outer cover strip on the front calves being set. All cover strips for the front of the legs are being cut to 20mm. In this shot, the calves have now been assembled and the inner cover strips are being set. I also have the outer cover strips for the front of the thighs being set. Again, 20mm for the cover strips. Lastly, some discussion about how I trimmed the thigh ammo boxes. After the initial trims were all set and sanded, I used some scrap 2†pvc pipe to draw the curvature. Then that curvature was trimmed and sanded. You can just make out the PVC scrap above the boxes in this picture. Sorry, it blends in with my armor storage box. I am not sure if it was a result of my trimming, or if it is part of the kit, but I have one side of the thigh boxes that is noticeably shorter than the other. Not going to worry about it at this point. Considering how close I am, it is now time to build a checklist for what is left to do: Trim rear of both calves to fit. Glue on rear cover strips for calves. I am going with 25 mm for that measurement. They will be glued on only the outside portion of each calf. Attach industrial strength velcro to inward facing joint on each calf. This is the closure method I have chosen to go with. Add velcro to boots. Going to use the hooks on the boots and the loops on the inside bottom of the calves. For sections of the calf at the bottom not getting velcro, attach moleskin 1/16†from the edge. Install 20mm interior cover strips to thighs. Trim rear of thighs to fit. Close rears of thighs with a 25mm cover strip that is glued onto both halves. Install 25mm rear cover strip to thighs. Install thigh ammo boxes to right thigh bottom. Install knee plate on top of left calf. Install split rivets in left joint of Kidney & Ab plates Install split rivet in cod plate. Install “Han†snap in right hand side of Ab plate Install male snaps in the butt plate Glue shoulder bridges to the chest plate Make snap plates for strapping. Strap armor to fit. Assemble Bucket. Install Bucket interior. Paint bucket. Submit photo’s for TKID, then EIB and lastly Centurion.

Try this thread here for alternate contact info for his site.

Thank you for the kind words and confirming I am not crazy with the TD. I am crazy though. Lol.

Ata and mtk can also fit thise on the short side. Most of the parts can be trimmed to fit. Mostly for the trunk if the cod plate and ab are one piece you might need to seperate them. Extra material could then be removed from the cod plate to shorten the overall section, which is covered by the belt. Whatever you choose the community here will help you through the build to get just the right fit for you. Good luck!

Make sure your armor is wiped down with a baby wipe or anti bacterial wipe, then completely dry before storing in plastic bag. Plastic bags make great incubator's for the bacteria that comes off in sweat. Bacteria + ABS/PVC + Incubator = Mold/Mildew

I enlisted the help of my lovely wife to help me get these test fit photos completed. Please note that there is zero strapping installed at this point and my shoulder bridges are not glued yet either. If anything jumps out as a glaring issue, let me know. The bib for my neck seal is sticking out a little wonky here, blocking the left bicep, it is not a trim line. LOL Here are the major components left to work through in the build: 1 – Thighs and Calves need to be trimmed, fitted and assembled. 2 – Strapping needs to be put together for the main armor. 3 – Bucket needs to be assembled. Lots of little steps in there of course, but I feel like at this point I’m nearing the half way point. Just need to rest up my shoulders and then find the energy to push on. Until next time….

Build Log – 6/18-6/21 – Ab Plate, Belt, and Test Fit #1 There is a new circle of pain that I have subjected myself too, sanding. Going into this build I was nervous about all the trimming, measuring, etc. It turns out that the most tenuous part of the build is the sanding. I was in a good rhythm until this week; my shoulders hit the wall from all the back and forth repetitive motion. Going to take a few days to try and recover, but I don’t want to lose any steam now. First up were the button plates. I used Bob Dively liquid masking film to prepare the area where I would paint. Four really nice layers and I wound up with a surface that looks like this. The film dries to a powder blue and is mostly used in RC and Model Aircraft applications, however; I’ve used it for a long time to protect canopies and to mask off free handed details on my models. Once it was nice and dry, it was time for paint. Once the paint was dry the film peels off easily by hand and leaves no residue. I had a few minor bleeds that were quickly cleaned up with a nail stick and mineral spirits. Then it was time to get them glued on to the Ab Plate, which was done after I had completed a few steps of my belt. To start the belt I went with the drop boxes first. First I identified the inner and outer boxes, labeling them prior to starting the finishing process. Here you can see an inner box, and an outer box that has been finished. For my outer box, I trimmed them to 10mm and then sanded them down to around 9mm. I then set the outer box onto the inner box form so that I could get a marked line for trimming. Trim just short of the line and then sand down to it. Continue testing the inner box until it fits nicely into the outer box that has already been completed. Repeat for the other pair. The ammo belt has now been trimmed and I have started to make the 45 degree cuts in the corners. At this point, the head bend has not been applied. I followed Terry’s tutorial on the heat bend, using paint sticks, a heat resistant glove and a heat gun. To make sure I was keeping the bend in line, I constantly compared the cooled belt against the ab plate. Measure your belt and mark the center line. The mark should be on center in both the length and width. I then measured where I was going to put the snaps on the Ab Plate. The Ab Plate was marked (no picture, sorry) and the holes were burned into the belt using a soldering iron. Here you see the female snaps installed. These are Tandy 24 snaps. Here is the front view; the male snaps are now installed on the Ab Plate. You’ll also notice the pop rivets that are used to hold the ammo belt to the canvas belt. Using the Billhag (sp?) templates I marked the holster position and installed it using ¼†post Chicago Screws. 1†industrial elastic was attached to each drop box using pop rivets. I cut the length of this elastic to 8â€. My left drop box needed a modification to work around the rivet that is in the ammo belt. Just trim out a notch and seal it with a lighter. My drop box will now line up properly. I am using Velcro to attach the drop boxes on the off chance I decide to also go HWT with this build at a later date. Here is the box installed, lining up with the outside edge of the ammo belt. The covers were then installed and clamped to glue overnight. With the belt done, it was time to do a test fitting.

Installing the male snap using the split rivet in the cod plate is an idea I will definitely be adding to my build. Very smart indeed!

Add MTK to your list of potential matches. I am not sure of his max belly button measurement, but I am 37.5" in that area and will be trimming around 1-3" off the kidney/ab.

Once you get a few more posts (I think it is around 5), check out the PX. There is a sales thread in there that will cover the Hovi Mic Tip speakers that you seek. As to the mic system, there are a lot of options available to choose from. From wired, to wireless, to dual transponder throat versions. You can get some tips and read up on what others have done in the Electronics for Helmets/Blasters sub-forum.

Thank you Chris. I want to share my journey in the hopes someone building an MTK in future has a reference of a few things to do, and what to avoid that I do wrong (like wrong sized gaps on the clips). Yes, seams are rebel scum and must be filled...must be filled...must be filled. Just finished some research here on ABS paste, I will document all I can. The chemist in me will want to come out, so be forewarned my dear readers.

Your cut lines look good to me..just remember to leave yourself a little space for your gloves. Maybe double check your marks while wearing the gloves to make sure the opening isn't too tight.

Great build! only thing I can see is with the undersuit, there is a logo visible on the left thigh, and grey stitching in the groin on both sides. I am not sure if the stitching matters (it isn't mentioned in the CRL), but the logo is...Perhaps a beat up ace bandage to simulate mummy wraps in that area to cover those up? I really love the paint job on this though, great layering of the colors to achieve the weathering.

I already fixed it once...of course I fixed it the wrong way LOL. It won't be a big problem, just a pair of vice grips, a cloth to protect the paint and a nice heavy twist. That will break the glue seal and then I can spin it 180 degrees and reset it. Repair the paint once the glue is dried and then the part will be placed. Thankfully, this is a little part, so the repair should be simple. Though it may be a while until I get it done, my focus right now is on my armor. Once the repair is finished a revised picture will go up. You're right about the reference part, I don't want to mislead anyone. Again, thank you for catching that error and posting the reference photo of the real lug.

Dennis, thanks for posting that. Looks like I will be flipping that part around again. I appreciate the heads up.

Dennis, do you have a reference to show this is the case? Here are three references that I used for my positioning. Unless I am just crazy (which is entirely possible), I believe my orientation to be correct. Ducati's Reference (Pinned thread in this sub-forum) E-11 Blaster Reference (Pinned thread in this sub-forum) Derrek's Build (can find this photo in his build thread, and his sales thread, maker of the Phoenix Props kit)

Build Log – 6/15-6/17 – Supplemental I will let you in on a secret about me and modeling in general, I hate seams, I mean hate them. If it has a seam, fill it and hide it. I am really fighting that compulsion, but in the end I must come to face the facts, I am going to have to resolve the seams. What I have noticed, is that there are tiny gaps (2-4mm) at the edges, hidden by the cover strips, where the armor just doesn’t come together perfectly. Those seam gaps are driving me to experiment with a way to fill them; then camouflage them to appear like a normal smooth transition into the armor. Is it set accurate, no, but will it make me feel better, oh yes. Time to experiment. First up was taking a piece of scrap ABS, this piece was from one of my bicep halves. I then intentionally cut away a triangle portion along the bottom edge and attached a random chunk of ABS nearby as well. The triangle is experiment A and the chunk is experiment B. Experiment A will need backing support to give a surface for the patch to adhere too. Time to break out the 0.75mm styrene. Trim a patch and then glue it to the back of the piece. Magic sculpt is now applied to both sites. Experiment A I am looking to repair the gap and maintain its curved seam. Experiment B I am looking to transition by feathering into the armor along its longest edge on the right side. After the appropriate set time (24 hours) both sites are sanded, then painted with Testor’s gloss white. Scratches are removed using Novus 2, then Novus 1 is applied to buff out. In the close up shot I am happy with the results of the patching. The paint is a terrible match and will need to be adjusted to blend better with the ABS. I believe a repeat of this experiment using no paint is in order. The dried white Magic Sculpt is nearly a dead on color match. It needs gloss though that Novus will not provide, so I think some Future, or Testor’s gloss coat will be needed prior to buffing. So I’m close, but not the success I wanted. If I can get a second round of experiments to test out I will be using the methods of both A and B to totally blend away the seams where cover strips are. I am also contemplating using it in the small gaps that are between the cover strips and the raised ridges. This will give the illusion that the armor is a solid cast, and not multiple pieces conjoined. Yes, yes, I know that isn’t set accurate, but I hate seams…hate them…must hate seams…must fix them… Now that I think about it, maybe the next round of experiments will include ABS paste as a site C and D, along with a repeat of A and B. That should fix my color matching issue….hmmm….

Here are some basic recaps of the last three days. Monday 6/15 – Left forearm has its last inner strip curing; Right bicep and right forearm are now enclosed and have their first inner strip curing. Tuesday 6/16 – Right bicep and forearm have their last inner strip curing. Plastic hand plates are completed. Chemical gloves are curing with the E6000 (not pictured). TD is complete and the control panel is curing. Back plate is now trimmed and sanded, waiting for the final fitting. Wednesday 6/17 – Glove debacle is done, pictured here are the finished Centurion gloves with the latex hand plates attached via CA glue. The Ab Plate, Kidney Plate and Butt Plate are all trimmed and sanded. Continuing with the top down progress, painting the Ab button panels (and attaching them) then moving on to the belt. There is a lot on my plate this weekend with the family considering it is Father’s Day, so I am not sure how much time will be allotted for the build. I think it is coming along nicely though.

Ok…with that over with, it was now time to finish off the TD assembly. First I had to address my clips. While finishing up that research to answer my own question, I discovered that the left over material from the most visible screw head to the end of the clip (touching the control panel) was too great. I put in the raw screw and realized that I would have to trim off at least 5mm from each clip. Here is the final result. The new clips now rotate the panel further away from the belt, making its face more vertical and thereby closer to cannon. I then measured from right hand side 16.5 mm. Laying the clip just over that mark I used a sharpie to give me the target for the drilled holes. Then using a 1/16†punch I tapped the pipe to give the screw bit something to grab onto. If you don’t use a punch (or a nail head) to do this, there is a chance your drill bit will want to walk along the surface of your pipe. Damaging not only the paint job, but the alignment of the clips as well. I then drilled the holes using a 3/16†drill bit and installed the clip. After that, put some E6000 in the end cap and slide it on. The glue acts as a lubricant, so putting the end cap on is very easy. However; removing the cap is nearly impossible after it is on when using even E6000. Consider this before attaching the pieces. My control panel is only taped on at this point to assist with alignment. Until both sides have end caps attached you must not attach the control panel. The panel covers the “vent†hole that allows the second end cap to install, otherwise you have no way for the air to escape and getting it on correctly would be extremely difficult. With the right side done, I repeated on the left. Only this time I made an error and instead of measuring to 16.5mm, I must have made my mark at 17.5mm. As you can see here, my left clip is not fully flush up against the end cap. Not much I could do there, I tried to get that end cap off, but it was having none of it. Sorry sir, I am in place and not moving, live with it. Ok, just going to take a deep breath and attach the control panel. I am using rubber bands here to keep it under pressure while the E6000 sets. Here is an overhead shot, everything is lined up nicely. I am pleased with the results. Time to work on the gloves and hand plates. First up is the Centurion set up. I took the latex hand plates and glued them down to the chemical gloves using E6000. I used my scrap piece of 2†pipe as armature for the taping. After curing for a day, I peeled off the tape and to my horror, the hand plates came with it. Looks like E6000 doesn’t like the latex backing, but it did adhere to the gloves. Not feeling discouraged I broke out my 2 part epoxy that has a 5 minute cure. Spending a little time peeling all the E6000 residue off the gloves and plates first of course. To my surprise, same result. Good adhesion with the gloves, and the latex plates just peel away, taunting me. Ugh. Check to ensure plates are sanded, yep. Check ratio of glue, that’s good too. Ok, time for another glue type and we’re moving on to CA. That did the trick, though by this point my edges were a little messy. I should be able to clean that up once they set for a couple of days. However; the Centurion gloves are done. I then moved on to the plastic hand plates. Since the back of our hands are not flat, I got out some 3†PVC couplers that I have in my build box for the shins. Using a heat gun and heat resistant glove, I worked the trimmed hand plate slowly until I could get some curvature to it. Here you can see the result. The hand plate on the left has the heat bend applied. Liking the result, I repeated this for the other hand plate. On especially hot troops, where rubber gloves are just not feasible, I plan to wear nomex tactical gloves and will thereby use the plastic hand plates that I will slide over the gloves with two strips of elastic. One strip going around the wrist, the other around my palm. Sufficient for sporting EIB status, and according to most of my squad mates, much more comfortable than the chemical gloves.

Build Log – 6/15-6/17 – TD, Arms, Thoracic Pieces, Hand Plates I will admit it; I am a little disappointed that my question wasn’t answered. Now, before that comment brings out the pitch forks; I did some examination of why that could be and I have determined that it is my fault. Read on audience, read on. Here is how I drew that conclusion. Too may “K†builds actively going on, the question was lost in the mix – Entirely possible. Kredal’s, Keyla’s, Kawnr’s and Khazid’s builds are all actively happening with updates coming very regularly. My post may have gotten lost in the mix. Question is of a difficult nature – Again, possible, but considering the knowledge of the community, especially the vets, I ruled this out. The question was buried and was just overlooked – I think this is the most likely of reasons. I tried to set apart the question by using a different color; obviously that failed. Looks like the lack of response is my fault, it is the logical conclusion. Going forward I will resolve to post my questions separately from the build update so that they are set apart from my normal dialogue. I’ll keep the formatting the same (using blue text and bold) to ensure it is set apart from just a normal post. I think this will help as I continue on this journey. Now, with that said, I realize it is still my responsibility for ensuring my build meets the requirements of the particular level of qualification that I am shooting for. This meant on Tuesday night I started banging away on research to get an answer. Review recent EIB and Centurion MTK applications – I found three MTK Centurions and read through both their Centurion and EIB applications. I could find no mention of TD size issues. I even attempted to do a photo comparison of what was in their shots, versus what I have on hand and failed to draw any conclusions of note. Nothing to support my build, nothing to require a correction. Review the CRL’s for Centurion (Level 3) – Nothing specific mentioned in regards to the size of the end cap, just the overall size of the final assembly. Another dead end. Review known photographs from screen shots – This is where I found my answer. While actual screen caps led me back to the same conclusions as I got for the applications; I ultimately found an image posted by Locitus that led me to my answer. I took that image and recreated the shot with both of my end caps. I chose the right hand end cap from the photo reference. Using my photo editor, I took cropped portions of just that area and put them into a merged image. Adjusting for scale, I got the measuring tapes to line up. Here is the completed photo comparison, apples to apples. Now, this isn’t a forensic comparison, but I feel oh so much better about the 17mm end caps. They are nearly identical in size to that of the photo reference. So close that my opinion is that any difference in size is negligible. I feel confident that there will be no issue in this TD having a problem with a Centurion application.

I'm 5'8" 182lbs and am currently working on my MTK. I have a 34" waistline, but measure 37.5" around the belly button. From what I can tell on preliminary fittings, I will be trimming about 1-3" from the seam between the kidney and ab plate. I hope that helps.

Nice build! Only thing I could see is for Centurion, the cod rivet should not be painted.

Jason, thank you for the reminder. I had forgotten that part of the series. I even went back and watched it this evening again to see how Mike did that trick (pt. 4 of his series for those wondering). Sadly, I have sanded down the edges of my pipe so that won't be usable for his technique. However; I do have some 2" scrap pipe in around my workbench that will sub nicely. I am going to wait for an answer to Question#001 before I do final assembly of the TD though. I don't want to put on the end caps just to have to take them off and source replacements from somewhere else.