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sylverbard

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Posts posted by sylverbard

  1. 1 hour ago, TK-42134 said:

    Am I correct in reading that the line 24 Snaps will have to be removed from the Ab to belt connection and are to be replaced by S snaps? Are the holes the same size for both those snaps?

    no need.  if it cannot be seen, typically, it cannot be judged.  if you want more accuracy, sure, replace them.  i kept the line 24 snaps, i dislike my hard belt falling off.

  2. On 6/12/2018 at 9:09 AM, greenie22 said:

    Kind of a noob question.  I am not confident enough to point on the blue cheek stripes.  Instead I am going to use the decal from AP until I am more confident in painting.  I want to make my armor Level 3.  Are there any guidelines in reference to how far apart the stripes have to be?  I looked at the photos and cant put my finger on the width between them.  I may seem like I am over analyzing.

    2 ways. 

     

    1 -get two yellow pencils.  lay one on the mandible (jaw) next to the cheek.  use the other pencil to draw a line so you know where the spacing is.  photocopy the sticker set and cut out the space between the sticker areas, and use it as a guide to place your stickers.  it is ok to be wonky a tiny bit on the stripe to stripe space, just try to be very careful on the top and bottom edge so it looks awesome.

     

    2 - buy a stencil.  tape them on. paint a layer of white paint on and let dry.  this will prevent the blue paint from bleeding. then, mix the blue paint. mix it again. shake it up. mix it again. shake the living bejebus out of it, it separates more easily than the trade federation.  then, paint the blue stripes. let dry for 2 days. paint the blue again after repeating the mixing strategy.  you will have great, lvl 3 tube stripes.

     

  3. length is less important than width. how big around are you, and are you going for more than basic approval?

     

    I am 5 foot 8, 170 pounds, long legs and arms, short torso.  33 inseam and if i was an inch taller in the legs theyd be perfect.

     

    midesectionwise, I have no shims, and am about 100 cm around the navel (39 inches).  any bigger and you will need shims, or have black spaces.

     

    i would suggest AM for taller buklier folks, and AP has extended ab and kidney sections for more robust tummies.

  4. On 12/20/2018 at 10:38 PM, Xanthais said:

    Yeeeeeeeah. I'll post some pics after the 1st in my thread. Have some serious gaps in my chest/ab plate.

    Sent from my MSE-6 droid using Tapatalk
     

    i am 5 foot 8 and about 170 pounds. If i was 5 foot 9 with the extra inch in my femur, ATA would fit me perfectly. It and others are just designed around the ideal Tk from canon sources.  When trooping I am usually the shortest (or tallest) and I proudly reply "I am the correct height, actually. Come get a pic." to the obvious, over asked, question.

  5. looks good.

     

    i will suggest what I always suggest:

     

    - the helmet (bucket) is honestly the first, middle, and last thing the crowd sees.  the Tk bucket is THE iconic face of the franchise.  with that in mind, make it perfect.

     

    - with regards to comfort: ensure cover strips do not extend beyond that which they are covering.  trim them so they are flush-ish.

     

    in both cases, I always suggest finding a Centurion Application thread for your armour, and compare photos.  More work done out of the box, less anguish later undoing or redoing small things.

     

    as far as basic approval, you should be fine :-)

    • Like 3
  6. On 12/4/2018 at 3:42 PM, justjoseph63 said:

    Did anyone notice that Deadpool's boots are on backward?  Not on the wrong feet, but facing the wrong direction. lol.

    i was literally about to post that.

     

    "oh look its the "walk backwards to hide the direction you are really going DP and its easier whan you can literally twist your legs around to do it."

  7. 8 hours ago, TK64287 said:

    Hi there,

     

    I currently have built a set of RS Props Stormtrooper ESB armour that has passed 501st clearance to basic. I would like to push this up to level 3 centurion, but convert the entire popper based trapping system to as replica screen accurate as possible.

     

    I have a few questions before I take the jump and start getting everything I need together, and I hope you guys can help.

     

    1- Is there a definitive list of accurate materials for centurion? For example, exact brand of poppers, and split rivets used for the 1980 ESB film.

     

    2- A tutorial in specific measurements for part placement? (I.e. bracket connectors spacing)

     

    3- Brand of paint used to cover side rivets

     

    4- Source images of these parts in use

     

    Any help would be appreciated, really hope to get this underway.

     

    Cheers,

     

    James

    Firstly, one of us!

     

    Secondly, keep in mind that the materials used have no bearing on centurion status: its all about the fit, and outward appearance.

     

    The centurion info can be had in the Advanced tactics section.  EI would be your first step, as you need to meet that requirement on the way to Centurion,

    There is a photo list as examples and a checklist with all the required upgrades from basic approval.

     

    As mentioned, the replica section would have more nitty gritty deets about exact brands from the films, spacings, etc., as well as ESB e-11 versions.

     

    Presuming you are the size and shape of a typical stormtrooper with no shims or properly done shims in the middle, the quest is easy for centurion. 

     

    Have fun!

  8. this kinda bugs me:

     

    image.png.5ed318bd6fb4820bd0846995e87ff0a3.png  they should line up and be a flat line not a bump.

     

    also this, simply for security that the butt plate doesnt wing out and snap.  connect it on each side to the kidney plate.

    image.png.0a1c8d33913893749e580e0c0902a697.png

     

     

     

    as do these:

     

    image.png.75cba9c57f03e9ea0b1c692161626ea3.png id take some return edge off the chest piece, the edges of front to back should be flush-er, and someones mentionned the drop boxes i think already.  

     

    these few things just distract my eye.

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  9. I always go by the rule that velcro is not structural, nor easily repeatable.

     

    On shin closures, sure.  Chest to back connect, yes. But I glued it in place so nothing moves.  Snaps lock things in to the same place every time.  I can put my tk on in the dark and know its in the right position, and snaps are easier for handlers to help with.

     

    Nothing on the inside counts though.  If velcro is your thing, go for it.

  10. On 11/1/2018 at 2:46 PM, JE the Stormtrooper said:

    Hey all,

     

    Im brand new to the group and want to buy a complete commission Storm Trooper with everything because I don't have time to build myself.  I see good things about RS Prop Master, but wonder if anyone has any others in mind.  Im ready to buy.  Thanks. 

    Find your local garrison, and find out of someone there builds tks.  Save some coin, get it properly fitted, and do some work on it yourself.  

  11. On 11/21/2018 at 9:57 AM, Ripper_L said:

    Someone in a facebook group posted what he got after ordering from rebatesesg.com

     

    Here is a picture:

     

    image.png

     

    So be aware and don't order unless you want a cheap costume for your kids.

    Damn. I cant make a Deathtrooper out of that.  It will clash with the little pumpkin.

    • Like 1
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