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sylverbard

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by sylverbard

  1. Regardless of when you post all the pics , approval won't be given without the blaster pics. I'd start the thread and post the pics you have, then add dl-19 pics. But you'll want an action shot holding the dl-19 anyways.
  2. Only you know the mindset of a function really. I tend to stick to safety...Ask in advance if the event would have qualms about it. It will be hot, dark, and likely no sitting. I'd leave the blaster at home.
  3. Make sure your cod is as high and tight as possible. Then snug the thighs as high and tight as possible. If it still hangs below knee...Time to trim. Not being able to walk properly is dangerous.
  4. I'd take half an inch off on the body side, which will shorten them as they raise up to attach.
  5. 5'8 is fine. I'm 5'8. It all fit perfectly, I could have taken a cm off thighs and firearms just to ease movement.
  6. Consumer spray paint has issues. Mixing brands is bad. Heat and humidity and not following the can guidelines for repeat coats ...Waiting too long then not waiting long enough...Always messes things up. If you have space, and a week, take the time. I know some had it painted at a shop...Great results, costly, but likely great results. Can always weather it lighly instead .
  7. For the alpha kits we were told to use Rust-Oleum 2x white primer, and Rust-Oleum 2x glossy paint, to match the fiberglass helm closely. No clear coat was suggested but some did that too. Some used automotive paint designed to be tougher and flexible to prevent some damage. I didn't keep mine long, but I had it well protected in travel , and I could tell where the suit would begin to wear. I presume two or three coats of gloss white will be good for a while.
  8. Then prime at least twice , sanding in between. Then paint at least twice following paint can instructions for multiple coats.
  9. Comradedave is the CG attache, send him a pm here , and I'd post in the 501st.ca forum for new folks and see when they may have armour parties coming up. Another excellent plan is to start volunteering as a handler at events. 501st.com has all the basic CRL info , we do too here at fisd, and plan on building to centurion out of the box...Just easier than upgrading and the AP kit is good for that.
  10. Actually I'm the attache for the capital city garrison, the OP is in the Canadian Garrison territory but I'll try to find that contact, I'm in a pharma class at the moment. If you hit the Canadian garrisons website, they have an area for new potential members but only allow full members access. They have a Facebook group as well. You're welcome to join the CCG forums, capitalcity501st.ca and we let anyone join , just reduced access to member zones.
  11. In the original emails that came out it was alluded to not needing paint and Bondo. Now they say this: "Simplified assembly and improved detailing over 2015 prototype kits. Armor components require trimming, clean-up and physical assembly. Belt requires assembly. Basic instructions for assembly will be made available as PDF download. Snaps, strapping, and hook and loop materials are included for mounting of armor pieces. Tools and glue not included. Decal sheet included." I'm not sure what simplified means. This suit is built for one body type. Unless someone wants to resculpt features after resizing up or down a lot, tfa armour really should be bought by people it fits.
  12. You can braid it upwards so it sits on top of your head. Balaclava or Doo rag it in place. Bucket sits on it and hair acts as padding.
  13. The ukg has many such rules. No approval without weapons, for example, and branding costumes with logos even at canon slash official events. They claim they do it to stand out from the other official and approved costume club and people who aren't 501st in general.
  14. E6000, CA glue, Elmer's thicker CA glue , 2 part 5 min epoxy , ten minute epoxy just do I can mix more and cover larger areas.
  15. Goof off. Goo b gone. Just cover it with e6000 and more Velcro...Elcro seen to webbing then glued even better. No rivets. Except where the suit calls for them. Snaps are better.
  16. The tfa armour is a lot of pieces. The new version is supposed to do away with painting and Bondo. The Anovos offering is at least based off of pics and first ...Second...Hand views of movie used and worn stuff. If you define best as cost vs support vs work required then the answer is mostly yes. Other people do make suits of tfa armour. I believe all require primer paint and Bondo. There are at least one commercial secondary makers out there, Google fu it, and price is the same, eta is much sooner, and they make cloth gaskets as well that are excellent. Not sure they make a helm but you'll be painting their suit anyway. Be advised: tfa armour is a two person donning. It is suitable for your body type if I read it correctly. If you are tallish and cyndrillical. If you are pear shaped or inverted pyramidal, not so much. Stick to a good TK.
  17. Photoshop cut its teeth making terminator 2. Adding a second trooper in post production is easy and then it's part of the film. Just mapped onto a second part of the cell frame by frame.
  18. Buying legit armour on eBay is fine. Buying from typical eBay vendors is what is discouraged.
  19. Did you take those pictures yourself? Can I see the date and time stamps from the analog film back on your negs? Or imprinted by the Polaroid camera used for continuity? I doubt it. Irrelevant. CRLs are recipes for idealized costumes, Not guidelines to perfect inner and outer faithful reproductions. There are, unarguably, many costume facts available here on FISD that do not appear in the CRL. If you write a proposal, with screen shot evidence only, for the DL, and he agrees, he can propose an alteration of the CRL, and Grandfathering of existing costumes, to the LMO, and if he , or the next one, agrees, it will be changed. Simple. That's the process. Use it, or not. You asked for opinions, you got some, ball now in your court if you think it's worth changing. What do the other rotj vendors think? Otherwise, it's 100% up to each costumer to build to the CRL specs. If they ignore them, and don't get approved, that's their fault 100%.
  20. Also, hydrate, hydrate, hydrate. Hydration starts three hours before the troop. Not chug a.bottle of water then put bucket on. Gell soles. Comfy shoes make for long comfy troops. Non cotton socks or at least clean dry socks. Wet socks block feet breathing. Shrug. A lot. It's about the only rest your upper shoulders and back and neck will get. Three fast. Then slow up for five count, hold for five, down all the way for seven. Repeat often. Shoulder rolls...Not the kind on the ground...Backwards more than forwards. TK armour pulls us out of anatomical position more forwards. Fans. Or handlers with battery fans to blow air in to move the dead air out. Deodorant. Not antiperspirant. You want to sweat. Need to. Just don't make us smell it. Lip balm. Mic foam, sweat, helmet air will all dry your lips out. Balaclava. Keeps mic boom in place it it's not helmet mounted, keeps sweat out of eyes, and keeps ears from catching on the bucket rim when donning and doffing. Buy two or three of the three dollars free shipping ones from China. Fresh undersuit. Wash inside out. You will leave salt crystals in it and if you wear it on and off a lot without washing it can start to scratch or leave a rash. Wiggle your toes. Count teeth with your tongue. And , above all else, don't be a Smearo. A smearo is a hero who didn't say he was in trouble, or fatigued, thirsty, etc., Who ends up face planting, or just feeling really crappy after a troop.
  21. Well or the table collapsing. I have managed to slide the corner inside my butt plate once...which sucked more than wall sits while I tried to free it.
  22. Unfortunately your on set photos mean nothing. How do we know the guy putting tds on each belt wasn't just over there to the right? Or that a photo on set wasn't just a lighting check or camera focus check or slider check while costumes were still sorting things out? The pics of rivets could be pics from the shop before the memo came out saying lose the rivets. Unless you , we, want a multi tiered multi variation rotj suit crl it's safer to make things to the LCD and MCDF and just coach people to follow the CRL for basic approval then do whatever they want after. Paint the armour teal, or pink. Take the TD off. Lose the holster. Just accept it will not be suitable for some troops.
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