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gmrhodes13

Detachment Staff[Staff]
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Posts posted by gmrhodes13

  1. 21 minutes ago, SublimeBW said:

    Bottom

    Le46pr2.jpg

    Really depends on the size of your head, we all have to do the twist and drop method when putting the helmet on. I like having more return edge than less, people can't see as much under the helmet, especially younglings.

     

    I normally trim so it's curved on the sides so no sharp areas,/corners. Loosely add your S trim and see if your noggin (head) will still go in, if not trim a little more.

     

    Ear gap references

    DaveMANH02.jpg.acf465389aa519f3e8b3cf4cd70a429c.jpg

     

    DaveMANH08.jpg.298d68b6ec1484efff46af83f67fa01a.jpg

     

    DaveMANH06.jpg.c05146d5fd8c0dcc604e25aeb1c946ec.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. 12 hours ago, F943 said:

    I had a go at removing the frown paint, hopefully it's ok.

    And just to confirm for the stripes that they are supposed to start from here? (That's glue on the pencil not snot, honest).
    bHagEiY.jpeg

    Teeth look much better.

     

    Tube stripes spacing is generally a pencil width as your image now shows BUT it's only an "ideal" position, you would probably get basic and L2 approval how they are now, you would need to adjust them for L3 though ;) 

    • Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.

    DaveMANH01.jpg.0ae119fd0efee2b67e8040351f9d7b76.jpg

    • Like 1
  3. Hello and welcome aboard, just a couple of things you could improve on.

     

    • Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.

    Yfkezz3.jpeg

     

    yxFlGlC.jpeg

     

    You could try to round of the tops of the black area on the vocoder. Also add white paint to the rim of your hovi tips.

    • Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white.

     KKZqeB8.jpg?2   IMNaNgw.jpg?2  9ZBQOLM.jpg?3  

     

    zDan7Ak.jpg?1

     

               rmMCj1s.jpg?1   WYFQFmd.jpg?2

     

     

    Also watch any paint on the gums

    Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area

     

     s4AllTr.jpg?1

     

    dZxd00S.thumb.jpeg.1014c70189dda1e07b92100ba3d0c24e.jpeg

     

    You could get away with the eyes, however I would try to reduce the gap between the helmet and lens

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. 7 hours ago, THEREALWarr1895 said:

    This project really attacks my OCD… but that’s probably a good thing! :’)

    It's amazing how ones OCD kicks off once you start building a costume (or two/three/four) you can never watch a Star Wars movie/series the same way ;) 

    • Like 1
  5. 1) a good guide for assembling the belt (I want to know how far I need to cut it, where to rivet and any general dimensions).

    2146e2d88bd088c1ee23e84b539089bc.jpg

     

    Varies from maker to maker

    BelttoAbRoughMeasurments01.jpg

     

    2) is there an approved way to make the thigh pieces wider? Right now getting both sides closed is almost impossible. Maybe a bigger strip in the back? Any photos of such fixes would be greatly appreciated! Larger cover strip on rear may be allowable, check with your GML as it is up to them if they will approve. If it's too big a gap you may need to add some more material to the sides on the rear. Some links in this thread:

    Third bonus question: for the strips that seem the armor together, is there a specific width they should be? I saw a pic from someone’s post using 15mm but I haven’t seen that written anywhere. 

    Forearms and biceps 15mm

    Thighs and shin front 20mm

    Shin rear 25mm

    • Like 2
  6. 1 hour ago, THEREALWarr1895 said:

    Here is the updated paint! Let me know what you think! Still trying to find a good mesh, might have to buy the one off trooperbay… 

     

    U7ZSV3J.jpeg

     

    Thanks again!

    Round off the point on the side of the vocoder

    U7ZSV3J(2).thumb.jpeg.fe7d170cc5b699e9f8cc56fdea544e47.jpeg

     

    Remove any paint from gums:

    Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area.

    References, note the small gap of white between teeth and gums

    gallery_12157_36_21761.jpggallery_12157_36_77206.jpg

    • Like 1
  7. 19 minutes ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

    Looks like there is no true consensus on the FB page, but I'm going with A&B right, and C&D left.

     

    I have seen back shin attachment with either bra hooks or Velcro. Velcro looks more appealing to me (and no drilling). Is there any reason why I shouldn't use Velcro?

    I use velcro, you just have to make sure you get your closure flat, you may just need to hot water bath them. Also make sure you rough up the surfaces before gluing.

     

    Example not closing flat

    99ee63a27a73d6ea71ca12695550f288.jpg

     

    Nice and flat 

    zEeIDMB.jpg

     

    YqoEdA9.jpg

     

    Some have even added extra strips to the closures so they can have wider velcro (I find 12.5mm each side is fine as long as they close flat)

    0yuahGU.jpg

    SvuBolY.jpg

     

    Bra hook elastic is screen accurate so some prefer that way

    gallery_12157_15_27566.jpg

     

    Cricket has a nice magnet closure, I may try this mod one day.

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  8. Glen, thanks for the quick answers! So in my photo, are A&B the left shin and C&D the right shin? I think it's the other way around, A&B right and C&D left, but check with WTK to be sure, I've not assembled a WTF kit as yet. 

     

    I did see the cricket build, but still wasn't sure about matching the halves. :duim:

     

    So is the Sandtrooper sniper plate just an accidental inclusion in the kit? Some makers add Sandtrooper pieces to their kits so you could build either TK or TD

  9.  

    1. I don’t have the undersuit yet (bottom). Will sizing with the boots on be adequate? Should be fine
    2. For strength, should there also be a cover strip on the inside of the front of the shins? I add one to my builds, just because of the constant opening and closing/ flex.
    3. There is this extra piece in the kit, does anyone know what it’s for (piece on the top)? Sniper plate SandtrooperXezNyZa.jpg
    4. Per what I said at the top, which half is which? Looks to be ok A&B C&D
    5. 2JQaEdg.png
    6. ab61uoC.jpg
  10. 1 hour ago, dblcross said:

    I'm curious to know why mine says I'm not an FISD supporter. What does that mean? Or how can I correct that?

    Only those that donate to web/hosting fundraising get a "supporter" graphic added to their profile, we haven't had a donation run for some years as we migrated over to the Legions web hosting. 

     

    Legion is currently doing a web/hosting run if you wish to support that https://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=113646, the legion issues this to your profile e5fGDz2.png, left is for web hosting right is for voting in the elections (they will only show on your legion profile). 

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
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