gmrhodes13

Just using the tooth pick or other sharp implement, scrap plastic cut on an angle, can be enough. Definitely NO THINNERS, as it can melt the plastic. Cutting polish may also be an option, a little harder to control though. Also noticed it appears you are missing the cocking lever (charging handle) off your blaster, although not mentioned in the CRL it is a requirement A few options, if you have (or know anyone with) a 3D printer you could print one, some great files here Or if you have old skool talents (hands on building) you could make one, I have used a plastic paint brush handle, shape and apply a little heat Or you may be able to purchase one from one of the blaster suppliers Reference:

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper FYI whenever adding images try to use the "direct link" or link with file extension ie: .jpg, .png, .gif Looking forward to seeing your trooping photos

Nice work trooper, you may want to remove a little paint on/close to the gums before the DO's get here, tooth pick with mineral turps can be helpful For Basic approval and above, Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. Good luck with your application

Have you checked with local troops through the UKG

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper You can request higher forum access as an approved Stormtrooper

Same request here

Congratulations trooper, updated EI Honor Gallery image

Photos would help us identify any issues, many use a free online image host Imgur, a great how to here Justin has a nice DN build here, you may find some answers there Gallery area can also help https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/20-fotk-reference/

1.) Acetone- Is this the same whether I get this from Home Depot or from CVS in the nail polish section? The CVS version say "100% Acetone" so I don't know if there a different with using either one. No it is not, I only found one source locally that would melt the plastic scraps, trial and error I'm afraid 2.) Slurry paste- What is the ratio of abs scrap pieces to acetone mixture? What is the mixture texture quality supposed to look like?......toothpaste.?....thick gravy type?.....stiff putty? Add acetone as needed 3.) How long does it take for scrap abs and acetone to sit before it's ready? How long is the slurry good for after it's ready or does it need to be used right away as soon as the abs is melted? Usually from a few hours, I normally leave overnight, if you keep in an airtight jar it can last a long time. 4.) Am I supposed to fill in the seams in the yellow areas of the pictures attached to cover them up entirely or to use just enough to close out the gap when i glued the pieces together? I know there is not supposed to be any seams visible on the yolk/harness chest and back pieces assembly and the abdomen piece. Not sure about the other pieces. I would advise have a look through the CRL https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_-_First_Order and gallery https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/20-fotk-reference/ Sides of abdomen and tops of yoke/chest need filling. Justin has a nice build to follow and uses ABS paste These need filling (use thin coats of ABS paste to reduce air bubbles when drying) 5.) For those ammo boxes, do the seams need to be filled in or is it OK to have a slight gap? OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The seams between the abdominal armor and the 7 boxes should not be filled.

Very nice

You will need to add each photo link to your post not just a link to your gallery. You also have quite a few issues with your build, I would suggest comparing with the CRL https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt you can also compare with our gallery section https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/. Another good idea is look over other EIB applications and what is approvable and what is not https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/19-request-expert-infantry-status/ Especially your detonator, I dare say you will need to replace those end caps, they should not be stepped. You also need screws not rivets on the brackets, compare with the reference below. You can also check if you are missing any photos https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49703-ei-photo-checklist-updated-version-2024/

Here's a Testors conversion sheet, you could try that. I did run across a few threads mentioning that No5 did get lighter @2008 so they may have now gone back to a darker shade now And another from 2008: Got to paint them buttons dude The Humbrol grey colour has changed and is now lighter. I had to dab in a bit of black to correct the colour in my tin We have the Humbrol here in the UK, but I think the guys over the pond have a different brand of paint that is better

Great work

Yes got that, height wise normally they don't need modifying for someone 6' and up, hence asking for a rear image. You may find they need shimming at the back to open the thighs so there is more room but hard to tell without a photo

The gaps on the front look fine, the tops of the thighs could come up a little if you wanted. On the rear a bit hard to tell with out images, perhaps your thighs are too tight hence why they pinch at the top

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks This may help you with your EIB application Good luck

Nice work

Photos of you wearing everything would help us better understand your issue, at 6'1" I would be surprised if you need mobility cuts. Will any cuts try to still resemble screen seen thighs

Great news, well done and welcome to the ranks trooper

I can't recall one Here's one on making latex hand plates Normally the area under the hand plate is enough to glue elastic straps or velcro too so I'm not sure why it would need filling

Looks much better

Hi Keith have you reached out to troopers in your local area, you can find them here https://www.501st.com/maps/ A couple of Youtube videos you may find helpful Thigh elastic A few different ways to strap thighs You could also make a build thread, great way to get feedback on your build https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/ For adding images most use a free online image host, how to here

Everyone has their own way to prep, I prefer using bondo for larger filling and blade/glazing putty for smaller imperfections. Also be careful using too much blade/glazing putty as the thinners in the paint can seep into the putty while the paint is drying and cause imperfections. Are you wet sanding?, wet and dry sandpaper with water, helps the sandpaper to last a little longer, less clogging. I normally use 240 wet and dry, after that I use a primer filler and sand with 400, then paint over. 1500/2000 is normally used for cutting and polishing final coats, very very fine and it's a lot of work using with blade/glazing putty.

My pleasure While waiting for the @Deployment Officer Team I would change your hovi mesh as the WTF is very fine, many use the mesh from a strainer EIB approval 1060WTF