gmrhodes13

You may want to remove the paint from your gums. Paint on the gums is more a ROTJ look CRL: Frown is painted black and does not leave the teeth area. Eight or six total teeth on the frown are cut out. References

Indeed, you can never have enough, well almost

A nice combination of clamps, magnets and tape

Haven't you finished yet

Bummer, but live and learn, it's all about the prep work. A good trick I learned panel beating was once you apply a primer of filler go over with a really light mist of black, what happens then is when you are sanding (wet sanding is best so the sandpaper lasts longer) you sand off the black in high areas and in lower areas black remains, great for picking up imperfections as scratches or low spots. Nearly there, keep up the good work

Congrats Chris

Looks like you have a bit of print lift, slightly curved in the first photo. They do however have a small gap

Tony mentions incorrect labels in his thread

This Anovos build may help "NOTE. Your shins may be mis-labeled by Anovos. The shins come labeled in pairs 24/25, 27/28. A good majority of customers are stating they should be 24/27 and 25/28. Regardless of the numbering system when assembled they should resemble the following image. Note the long swooping outer edge verses the shorter inner. These should resemble the anatomy of your legs. Double check before final assembly."

You have general forum access currently, anyone that signs up to the forum does and it allows you to see certain areas of the forum in regards to finding and building a Stormtrooper costume. You however can not obtain higher access if you are not an approved 501st legion member with an official TKID.

Looking good

Most favour ANH due to it being the first time we had seen Stromtroopers. You can however do several versions with swapping out a helmet a belt, holster etc, not that hard to do, ANH Stunt, ANH Hero and ESB, if you get a pack, pauldron and pouches you could also do a HWT. I wore my ESB and I did get asked a few times which do I look angrier, why are your teeth black. Table of current TK costume version totals Entirely up to you which version you wish to build

You would need to compare your armor to the CRL (costume reference library) as well as screen references. Ultimately it is your GML (garrison membership liaison) that will approve or deny your costume for 501st legion inclusion.

Info about detachment affiliation below. To remain affiliated to a detachment you must log into that detachment's forum at least once during the year (election - election) You could reach out to the elections team but I'm sure the database is in lockdown and the election process has begun [email protected]

There are some great threads you can follow in our build area, that's how most learn what is required to build a Stormtrooper You can find the differences between the versions here https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view Also info here on the different versions http://starwarshelmets.com/stormtrooper_helmets_armor_and_costumes.htm A great thread full of helpful links CRL's are here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL (costume reference library) these have the base requirements for 501st approval Once you decide which version you can start a build thread, great way to get feedback and assembly tips, build areas area here https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/31-costuming-and-builds-original-trilogy-and-anthology501st-approved/ Good luck and don't be afraid to ask questions

Used to fly RC planes, now use servos for droid builds

1. I've used clear plastic from a rectangular cotton bud container, be about 1mm thick, it's amazing how many clear plastic things you can find once you look around. 2. Craft wire, it's sturdier than normal soft wire, it doesn't bend easily, I had some from other projects, use it on servo linkages.

Weight is easy to put on but incredibly hard to get off, keep going trooper you will get there

Great news, do you have a link you could post, may help others out looking for the same

Was one of the things I was worried about with printing an E-11, Bryan made a heavy duty version which can be used with other E-11 kits he's made "TROOPING DUTY (DROP RESISTANT) VERSION FOR MY STERLING AND E-11 MODEL" https://www.printables.com/model/168378-heavy-duty-sterling-smg-mk4-l2a3-and-anh-e-11-rece

Score. Nice prep work, my most hateful part of the process. Trying to get orientation right for less print lines as well as trying to keep details can be a little complicated, as well as trying to keep as much strength possible in some areas, all a learning curve and comes with practice

Legion has an automated process which syncs the legion member database with the forums prior to the elections each year and should re-activate your detachment affiliation, I don't know what date the web team runs the automated process, you could check with them about the sync email: [email protected]

Costume Approval Information New Members - Legion Elections 2025 During the Legion election period the membership database will be in lock down, during this time new member applications through your local garrison/outpost/squad can not be finalized, you may however still submit them to your GML (garrison membership liaison) but they won't be processed until the end of this cycle. This does not affect the addition of any new costumes to an active members roster/profile, however it does affect any membership status changes ie: active / reserve / retired and any personal information updates. The period of membership database lockdown for 2025 starts January 27th and ends February 17th More information on the elections can be found on the legion forum here (for those with legion membership access)

There is only 1 set of OTTK 3D files I know of LINK, many purchase ABS armor as it is more durable and plenty of makers out there so rare you see a printed version. With any files they must meet 501st base standards for approval so I would also check that. In regards to what to buy, how long is a piece of string!, there are so many out there, you can have issues with any of them, it takes some time to find the sweet spot in regards to printing some pieces. My last purchase was a FDM Anycubic Kobra 2 max 420 x 420 x 500, I've had no major issues so far, although some pieces I've had to realign due to fine supports letting go, and use a different software package than I used to as this machine just does not like Cura. I started 3D printing with 2 Cocoon machines they were 210 x 210 x 240, had to split a lot of parts but managed to print a full battle droid with them. I was gifted 2 Creality LD-002R resin printers from a fellow member and they have different quirks and issues that FDM's don't, they are small so I only use for detail pieces, one thing I do find though is resin is not as tough as plastic, depending on what part it is and were you use it, all a learning curve. Other things to keep in mind is price, shipping and support as well as cost between resin and filament. Lots of discussions builds from different make printers on Facebook, I would highly recommend doing some research in those, I've read horror stories with some printers while some have absolutely no issues with the same machine. Like any Stormtrooper build research is the key Have a read of this thread for what others use

I use welder shield (grey) in my Mando and easy to see through, for TK you could use something like this in green LINK