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gmrhodes13

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Everything posted by gmrhodes13

  1. Looking much better, just make sure there is no paint on the gums, I can see a few places
  2. It's normally the gap that needs filling, even with a piece behind the thigh. Reference Sugru or ABS paste will fill this gap
  3. Congratulations trooper, good luck with the LFL event, if you haven't had a read yet here is the Troopers Survival Guide some great info about canon events
  4. Looking forward to seeing the improvements
  5. Fit can be close and most trim if they need to have a little more room, average would be a fingers width I would say. It just depends how high up your thighs will need to be which will determine how much you can leave or trim.
  6. I have to add some foam inside the thighs to keep them central, even bringing them upward they were still loose. What will be a factor is where your cod will sit, you don't want your thighs hitting it or you posterior so final strapping/fitment once you have your body clamshell strapped and on. Also how much gap will be left between the thighs and shins, there is some adjusting to do will the full suit on. I can sit down and have done on many occasion, it's just as comfortable just to sit on a corner of a table/desk, getting the weight off your legs does help during a long troop. You do need a little bit of wiggle jiggle to get in the sitting positions, just make sure no circulation get's cut off in certain areas
  7. You could reach out to your local garrison and enquire if anyone is offer 3d printing. Files for the E-11 are here https://www.thingiverse.com/tk14082/designs Length would need shortening
  8. Really depends on your size, I have skinny legs so left quite a lot of return edge to take up some of that gap, just looks better. Screen references @ 5mm return edge, but you can trim it all off if it's too tight and that will be approved all the way to L3 From Joseph's return edge thread Thigh tops The tops of the thighs are where we see a lot of questions. I recommend removing all the return edges from the entire upper parts, and here is why: As mentioned above, you will be doing a lot of walking. If you have the edges (or at least a large portion of them) intact, the friction and inside facing angles can really chafe the heck out of you, especially on the inside of the groin area. (Ouch). If there are sharp edges/points on the tops (below) these will poke into you. When trimming these, just follow the existing line. Also, if you do your final fitting, glue everything together and find this out afterward, you will have to take the entire thing apart, remove the return edges, trim down the sides and then re-build/glue them back together. The reason is that afterward the opening will be entirely too large and you will have a giant gap all the way around. Not a good look. Easier to do it beforehand, trust me. As seen below, there were no return edges (or at least minimal ones) used in the films.
  9. Should be some in this thread Since we have seen more 3D printing it's very rare anyone scratch builds their E-11's, but "snaps" for you, looking forward to seeing your build
  10. Have a read here, and note you have to be approved at L2 before you can apply for L3 From our monthly newsletter: So what exactly are and levels? These programs were designed for those who choose to take their armor above and beyond the minimum requirements for basic 501st Legion approval. It gives you the chance to show a level of dedication and pride that takes your armor closer to being as "screen accurate" as possible, without as much extra work as you may realize! You can find more information on the programs here. For those unaware it is possible to achieve extra awards at Expert Infantry for each additional version costume you have approved, additional awards are not issued with another Expert Infantry number (you are only issued 1 Expert Infantry number) but you will see a star above the award on your profile and the thread title will show [APPROVED] 2nd, [APPROVED] 3rd, [APPROVED] 4th and so on. Multiple EIB award recipients and info here What do you gain for those levels? the warm fuzzy feeling of self accomplishment, a spiffy certificate to frame and display and banners on your FISD profile. As well as access to EIB and Centurion merchandise when they become available.
  11. So the snaps sit flat against the plastic apply a little heat:
  12. I've seen a few add an extra inner strip with more velcro but I haven't needed it so far. Inner strip reference
  13. No issues with Anovos no longer around, just an issue if you need replacement parts, can it be approved depends on how it was built, Anovos kits have been approved up to Centurion with a couple of modifications, helmet mesh, correct belt/holster combination and a few other tweaks. This is a great build thread You can check the kit against our CRL costume reference library https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt and make sure it meets current base requirements
  14. I also feel naked without a blaster, I try to keep my hands on the belt but there's not much else you can do except of course high five or wave.
  15. It's also a lot easier in this thread as the DO suggestions/comments can also be accessed and compared with any questions you may have. Looking forward to seeing your centurion app soon
  16. Spacer worked well, I used just a strip of offcut coverstrip in-between the shin and sniperplate. The twist is very hard to get rid off but not impossible with this armor, clamps, magnets, tape and even more tape under stress can work but definitely leave it all clamped for at least 72 hours, any areas of pressure needs longer for the glue to dry. I'd think you should be fine as you are for basic approval, may get mentioned for EIB L2
  17. Albeit not shoulder straps but how to hot water bath some parts in this thread Another way is a heat gun or torch, these take some practice to use, there is a fine line between hot enough to bend and molten mess, so take care. A hot water bath is a lot more gentle on the armor. Some even make wooden plugs that they can rest parts on once heated so it keeps them nice and straight, so there is no or little warping Some heat gun work in this thread
  18. Really depends on the files and how accurate they are, I've heard the files print very small. I would suggest before you start printing comparing your files to this image, as you can see the chest is lower and wider around the neck, different angle of the coversrips, not as long as a regular TK and also is very wide on the sides, like wings
  19. Trooperbay has paint and belts https://trooperbay.com/
  20. The turtle wins the race, when I started I had a 6 month wait for my ATA armor, over the next years that went up to 9 months, unfortunately the maker passed a few years ago. Really depends on your size, if you are standard Stormtrooper size you would have no worries, if your size is a little taller/shorter and if you have lower or higher weight you may need to make adjustments so an untrimmed is better. If you have a look through some of the build threads or Expert Infantry many have the abbreviation of armor maker in the page titles, will give you a good idea of sizing. Here's just one of those
  21. Hello and welcome aboard (from another DSG ) Some great info and links in this thread should help you on your way It's not as daunting as it first looks, research is the key and don't be afraid to ask questions, there are no silly questions, just silly mistakes from not asking them Look forward to seeing a build thread from you soon
  22. Imperial March Star Wars Empire State Building Takeover Merchandise reveals here https://www.starwars.com/news/imperial-march
  23. Congratulations on your second EIB trooper, updated Honor Gallery image added
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