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I am at the point when it is time to put the lenses inside of the helmet, and want to know how different people do it so that I don't mess it up. I would like the lenses to be only semi-permanent, in case they scratch or break I don't want to have to do major surgery to replace them. Ok, go...

I was able to get everything rearranged so that there is very little space between backside plates. Moved the chest and back down a bit and now everything is fitting great. The straps have to stay put on the chest plate since they are glued down. I just have less overlap onto the back plate now. Thanks for all the input. It helped quite a bit.

The straps are not glued in back. Only in the front so I can move the back plate a bit and then reshape the straps. Looks like I have some work to do resizing. Thanks for the help and comments.

Cool, thx!

I can space the kidney higher and try and pull the butt up a bit. That is why I built the harness system with velcro, for just such an occasion! Is it ok if some of the black elastic shows? That will happen if I space anything out...

I am trying to upload more than one pix per reply or post and am being told: Error, file to big to upload, you have used 501k of your global upload quota. What the heck???

Ok all. Here are the pix I said would be up yesterday. My question was on the space between the back and kidney sections. I can't figure out how to close it without the back plate sitting way too low.

Here is how I did it... I went on the ATA list, and that took about six weeks. While waiting, I researched the extras I would need and put together a priority list on when I would need what at particular points in my build. I got my kit on July 3rd and started on it right away. I purchased items one by one during the waiting period as well as while I was progressing on the build. Things like the holster and gloves I figured I did not need right away, but the undersuit was for instance, since I needed it for fitting purposes. As of today I just took the clamps off of the last shin piece, so less than a month for the body (minus helmet and bling). But, I also heard it from the wife last night that I am obsessed and have been spending WAY too much time working on my build. I still have a few things to buy, and although getting things slowly did not make it cheaper necessarily, it took the sting out of it.

Thanks guys...

Finishing up the body on my first build and have started on the helmet. My question deals with trimming the eyes. Is there a return edge on the eyes or should I trim the sockets right down flush with the inside of the helmet. Here are a couple of pix on where they are trimmed to now. Thanks.

I myself am 5-11 and about 175. I went with the ATA suit and it fits me perfectly. Nothing had to be shortened, lengthened or widened. The price was great and I have been happy with the quality. I am almost done with the body and will be starting the helmet this week. It did take me six weeks to get the kit due to a waiting list so don't expect next day shipping on anything. I am building the suit on a folding card table in my basement with some construction lights that also double as a heat gun for bending some parts. I should probably have more ventilation for the E-6000 and am probably slowing killing myself, but hey, the things we do for our hobbies. Don't forget there is a butt load of additional stuff that has to be purchased such as the canvas belt, boots, undersuit, holster and blaster to name a few. That stuff adds up quick. Good luck.

I need my tutorials!

Same. Too many redirects or something...

Similar, but not exact. Sorry for lack of pix. I will get some up tomorrow for sure.

Hey. Moving right along with my build (making a run for an ESB TK), and in reviewing the requirements I see that the back plate is supposed to sit flush with the top of the kidney plate. Well I can't do this without letting it sit much farther down on my back, which then leaves a good deal of black showing in the neck and shoulder blades area. If I position it just right and comfortable, I have about 2-3 inches between the top of the kidney plate and bottom of the back plate. The kidney plate is flush with the butt plate. I would not consider myself overly tall at 5-11, and it is an ATA suit. Other than the fact that you can see (maybe only because I know they are there) a couple inches of my black elastic suspender system against my Under Armour suit, is this a problem for final legion approval? I will try and post some pix sometime tomorrow, but in the meantime hopefully I have been descriptive enough for some help. Thanks in advance.

Check out this particular post: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=11538 It helped me a great deal when searching for my first TK kit. Complete with contact info. I got my full kit from a maker on the list, it took about six weeks to get it because of a waiting list but it was worth it. Great quality and price. I am about 75% done with it now. Good luck.

Thx for the tip pandatrooper!

Ok. I just heated and curved both the chest and kidney plate, in essence "tailoring" the torso armor to me. I hope this is acceptable because it turned out good! The belt should keep it nice and snug too.

I heated and conformed the butt plate to my body and it is now nice and snug... It will almost stay on by itself. I found another post a bit back with a similar issue and someone had said that the belt will bring the sides in. Could be, we will see.

Hello. I am well into my first TK build and have just finished the torso (chest, ab and back, kidney and butt plate), complete with a strapping and connection system similar to that shown in the FISD armor tutorials (I did however use industrial strength velcro instead of snap plates since this is my first build and I wanted the tolerances to be adjustable). I previously measured the sides so that they joined evenly and cut the excess. I excitedly put the torso pieces on today after allowing the velcro on the armor it's 24 hour cure time, and having reinforced the velcro on the 2" elastic straps by sewing the pieces to the elastic in addition to the adhesive already on the velcro. I noticed that where the sides come together, they bow out to a point instead of staying flush with my sides or contouring to my midsection. The butt plate also flares out on the sides. I am not having any issue with the chest or back plate, only the side seams for the ab and kidney plate sticking out, as well as the sides of the butt plate. I noticed on the tutorial for the chest and back that there seemed to be some black padding inside of the ab plate. Is this something that would solve my problem or should I heat gun the pieces and try to give them a more curved, body fitting shape? I don't think it has to do with me being too big, I am 5-11 and about 175 pounds. I don't think I trimmed too much, since when I push the sides in the seams meet flush and the sides curve. I am perplexed...

I just added some 1" foam padding to the larger forearm and bicep, so they now feel the same as the smaller side when on. and you can't see a size diff when looking at them so I am good to go. On with the chest and back I go. Thanks for all the replies.

It is an ATA suit, which I love so far by the way. I am fine if they the two arms ended up being different sizes as long as it wasn't because I screwed up a measurement or something like that. Just for my piece of mind I guess... Thx!

Hey everyone. Quick question. Just finished both left and right arms in my first armor build and noticed that the left bicep and left forearm are a little smaller and tighter when built. I used the FISD tutorials and made sure that I got the adjoining pieces for the left and right correct (curvy and straight, notched and rounded). The shoulders are the same size. Did I mess something up or is this a carryover from the original suit? Thanks in advance.

Thanks. I will give that a try.

Hello. Just started my first TK build yesterday. I am currently working on one of the biceps (I am using the cover strip method, both inside and out) and have two E6000 questions... 1) When using the E6000 for assembly, is it best to take a "less is more" approach or should I cake it on. 2) If some of the glue should happen to squish out in a little bead onto a surface, how do I/will I be able to get that off? I am aware that all glued surfaces need to be clamped and left alone for 24 hours. Thanks all.