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Darth Aloha

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Posts posted by Darth Aloha

  1. Hi Eric, it's more of a nylon spandex, Lycra is says. It's not the thick squishy kind


    Oh whew. I'm glad you don't plan on trooping in an actual wetsuit. I spent part of my morning wondering how I was going to say "ARE YOU MENTAL?!" with some amount of aloha. I know a lot about wrangling neoprene but looks like the drunken ZeroRoom has all the advice you need.


    I will add that when gluing stuff onto neoprene it is common to put the suit on and trace a line around the thing you're gluing on. If you do decide to sew velcro onto lycra you might want to put your suit on and draw a line around each velcro patch. Once you go to sew your velcro on you'll know just how much to stretch it out.


    Once the velcro wears out I could imagine a funny scene where you take a good deep breath and all of your armor pops off and goes flying.





  2. Well... this thread is turning super pic intensive isn't it? I resized these most recent ones so hopefully it won't take so long to load.


    I glued my last part onto my hasbro before I clean and paint it. I put one of Karin's D-rings on using the droopy doo hardware. Here's how I did it:


    This dremel router foot came in handy finally. I installed a spiral bit:




    I cut off the molded D-ring and drew a line across the back of the mount:




    Clamped the thing in a vice and routed a channel:






    Insert D-ring






    And glue it on:






    I'll start sanding and then painting later this week.





  3. Thanks for the kind words everyone :)


    Does anyone else see the irony of playing with a toy star wars gun for hours a day making me a men among boys?


    Here's today fun. Getting closer to cleaning and painting. One D-ring away from getting it dust and grime free.


    I dremeled off the heads to two bolts found in that bin of random hardware that every shop has. No one likes sorting bolts when they're done with a project... no one.


    Cut off and filed (yes I made lots of sparks next to that O2 bottle in the corner)




    Freshly dremeled socket head screws



    Socket heads sitting in a bed of E-6000





    I finally just bit the bullet and glued the cylinders on where I thought they looked good. I was spending too much time looking at other hasbro builds to figure out where the best place to glue them was. I was a little too liberal with the E-6000 but it cleans up so easily even when its dry.




    Another lesson learned was to use an exacto knife to cut away the scope rail. I used the dremel for most of it and I managed to ding the crap out of it. After making a huge mess with various dremel bits I spent a very long time filing the jagged plastic away. I might have spent less time and energy if I just slowly cut it away from a halved gun. I may get some putty and try and fill in some of the mess... or just leave it and save my energy for the next hasbro build.






    That's all for today. I'm going to try and modify the droopy doo D ring on Monday to accomodate the one I got from Karin.


    Aloha nui,



  4. Aloha troopers,


    Yesterday I sent Rob funds for a RT-MOD kit. I can't wait to be the first TK on the Big Island. In the mean time I've been working on my hasbro little by little. I have a folding table in my office full of e-6000 drippings, plastic shavings, glue brushes, sand paper and dremel bits.


    Even before I picked it up my hasbro at Target I had been reading and reading the hasbro mod threads. Jorran's and Pandatrooper's were a great source of information and inspiration for me. Many mahalos to them and every one else who took the time to write up a hasbro build.


    When I got the toy home I threw away the best piece of advice from all the build threads. Halve the blaster first. I went a little bonkers and started applying bondo and sanding the lettering off. Everything would have been easier if I had separated the two halves of the gun.


    Here's what would have been easier if I split it:


    • Preserving the LED light. I drilled through one of the wires.
    • Obviously drilling the extra set of holes
    • Scope rail
    • Sanding the body smooth
    • Painting the inside black

    But alas I didn't, but it went well enough keeping it in tact.


    This is a tough tool list so far:


    • Center punch
    • Drill bits
    • Imperial unibit :(
    • Clamps clamps clamps
    • Rubber bands
    • E-6000
    • Dremel
    • Foam sanding blocks med/fine
    • 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
    • Bondo
    • Caliper
    • Metal ruler
    • Hand drill
    • Drill press

    This is how I drilled holes in a whole blaster.


    Step 1: Measure where the holes go. Much time was spent with a metal ruler and a caliper measuring the spaces between the existing holes and the new holes. Drawing on a curved surface with a rigid metal ruler was a little silly. I have a small flexible ruler that I could have used but I was so focused it never occurred to me.




    Step 2: Punch holes. I used a center punch to create a landing pad for pilot holes. I was nervous about this but this plastic so forgiving and soft that I barely needed any pressure. I could have made little dents with a dull awl and it would have been just as effective.


    Step 3: Drill pilot holes. This went really well. I drilled these with a hand drill and I was really satisfied with my accuracy. I used a bit slightly smaller size bit than the smallest diameter of my unibit. This allowed the unibit to center itself in the pilot hole. I didn't use the unibit to drill the holes as the photo below might suggest, it was just the best photos of the holes I took.




    Step 4: Drill holes. I put the gun in my drill press vice padded with some random rubber sheeting. It took a whole bunch of time to make sure that the drill was perpendicular to the tangent of the hole. Tightening the vice I was a little afraid of breaking the fins of the existing "t-track." I suggest getting a metric unibit because the holes in the hasbro aren't imperial.




    Step 5: Be annoyed at yourself now that the LED no longer works


    The drill press allowed me to go slowly and accurately. It also prevented the bit from wandering when it encountered the material behind the hole in the way that Pandatrooper warned me would make the bit wander. However the holes did not come out as nicely as I wanted. The first hole I drilled is off because I misjudged when the unibit was centered. The force of pulling down on the drill press, the sharpness of the bit, and the softness of the plastic allows the bit to go right in ignoring the pilot hole. The next few holes I was more careful to center the bit. But the last hole... I have no idea what happened. I was rushing I'm sure. Now that I have the stock and all the other crap glued on I can see that no one will notice...but my A double S is still chafed.


    Crooked end holes (boo!)



    A few weeks ago the droopy doos kit was sitting on my desk in a box. A coworker (who works in a different office of my company) came in and was playing with my folding stock as he chatted. After he left I looked and I realized that he broke one of the pieces off. I was well teased for being mad at him for breaking my toy gun. It took me a few tries to glue it back together and it came out a little funky. Don't leave your parts around where any doofus can touch and break it.




    Some random clamping



    This droopy t-track is shorter than the other side. My counter is crooked.



    Ready for bolt heads



    The best advice I can give to anyone is to check and double check your parts after you apply clamp pressure. They move and often you can't tell how much when there's a clamp in the way. My scope is a little cockeyed and the counter is a bit askew. I could remove the counter and re-glue but really no one but me will ever notice.


    I'm thinking of doing another one of these builds just to apply my lessons learned. If I do try this again I think I'm going to get some better t-track. The droopy track is really crappy looking. And the two tracks that came with the kit were two different lengths! Meh.


    I'll take more photos soon. I only have the D-ring, muzzle bolts and the power cylinders left to glue on. I plan on using one of Karins D-rings by modifying the droopy doo part. I'm leaving the cylinders last because I'm really not sure where to put them. There isn't much room for wires but I'm not sure I want a little bit of it hanging over the edge. The cylinders do look different than other people's build kits. I'm guessing this is MKIII?


    I'll grab a few more photos as I spend time avoiding my job and sanding plastic.


    Aloha nui,



  5. Martin,


    I'm in the middle of a hasbro build and while I have lots of clamps, I don't have all that much patience. I have tried the following glues along the way:



    The Scotch-Weld DP605NS does a GREAT job but I can't keep using work's applicator tips. At $20 a cartridge plus the expense of the gun and applicator tips... that's too spendy for me to buy myself. Some people steal post-its from work... I mooch adhesives :engel:


    Even with good clamp pressure all the brittle glues (including the CA made specifcally for bonding plastic) created a really crappy weak bond. After scraping dried glue globs off, I've had to go back and re-do my hengsler and folding stock with e6000.


    E-6000: It's worth the wait!






    Recently got this kit myself and E6000 arrived today, so I might try to put it together using that, only downside is that the E6000 has to cure for at least a day, and that will prolong the build a great deal. I only have one screw-vice and four clamps, so I can't glue on a lot of stuff at the same time. Maybe use rubberbands to hold stuff in place? We'll see. Anyway, looking forward to getting started!

  6. Hey everyone... I've got another quick hasbro related question....


    Does the alignment of the power cylinders in this photo look right to you? There isn't much room behind them to add wires without having the the base plate extend past the clip housing. I wasn't sure if I should slide it closer to the body of the gun or keep it more on the outside edge near the clip.




    Aloha and thanks,



  7. Awesome.


    You should absolutely submit this photo to HCWS:)






    Dan, all the info about it is on this page:

    Armor types

    I'm 5'2", so my size is SHORT, haha. We had to get pretty creative trimming the pieces down to my size.

    I didn't even post my favorite picture with the gun:




    Thanks, Brian!

  8. I sees a "search" link at the very bottom of the page from my iPhone.... Both from ipb app and mobile skin.






    Being serious for a second....


    Did you know the search bar isn't an option on the iPhone etc...?


    Or if it is there, I'll be very embarrassed next time I click new posts :)

  9. Have you tried using an awl or a metal punch to make a dent first? If you smack the punch with a hammer you'll make a little hole for the pointy tip of your drill bit to sit in. That way it won't wander as you apply pressure on your dewalt. 


    Any sharp bit will do. Aluminium is pretty soft stuff. 


    Good luck. 





  10. As hear from alot of people that both of these armour sets are fantastic but sadly they are not made to suit my 213cm/7ft frame. Mods are the only way to go....soon enough tho.


    If you email Rob (RT-mod) your measurements he can make custom length limb pieces. I sent him my thigh and calf lengths and luckily they're not too long. I fear large swaths of black undersuit showing :)





  11. rapster that kneeling Vader pic looks so awesome!


    And Aloha i dont notice too much of a difference between the 3, what are the differences if you dont mind me asking???


    I used a couple different settings on the glow (gausian blur) and at least two different methods of making the beam red.


    If you follow this tutorial for the gimp it mentions using a fairly small blur radius. Because these photos were so large I ended up using 30/60/100 on one of them and the other two I did 60/120/200 which I think makes for a nice effect. The gimp has a colorify and a colorize option. I tried various settings for each to get the right color glow. I'm mostly a gimp fiddler and far from a graphic artist.


    If you go to the my flickr stream you can click on each photo on the right and see the difference more easily.





  12. While they may not seem different... here are 3 different rotoscope renderings. I can't say I'm thrilled with any of them. Click on the images for the larger size. If you go directly to my photostream and click on each picture on the right you can see the differences as you cycle through each photo. I'll try and get the ghostbuster one done this week.


    Oh and rapstertee... your kneeling vader is badASS!


    Aloha nui,










  13. I wear a 12.5 EEE (one less E than I thought) and my size 13 TK boots that arrived today fit great.


    They're a little narrow but they're soft enough that it probably won't matter. The 13's are a little long but who cares? I think if I put a set of gel insoles in them I'll be good to go.


    Boy did my wife laugh and laugh when I put them on. I can't actually repeat some of the things she said, but she was funny. I struck a quick Saturday night fever pose that got even more laughs. After settling down she had that near facepalm "what did I get myself into when I married you" look :) Oh but she knew... she knew.





  14. No zipper and almost no bib for latex stunt neck seals like this - NECK SEAL


    The neck needs to be ribbed and the bib needs to be shredded to make an accurate replica. I personally wouldn't make a hero neck seal from latex, just the stunt version. I am sure there would be some hard core troopers out there just waiting to snag one of these.


    That neoprene neck seal above would be way too hot for sure but easily trimable. The neoprene is very very comfortable. Imagine having a soft wetsuit around your neck :) They're big and tall because they're meant to be folded over when you wear them.


    The one below is also meant to replace a seal on a drysuit. The deal with a drysuit neck seal is that it is meant to be somewhat tight and flat against your neck to seal out the water. The ribs are guides to allow you to trim it down to your neck circumference with an exacto knife. My guess is that by the time you get it comfortable to wear for hours the ribs will all be gone. When you do trim it ensure that the edge is straight without any scissor cuts or nicks. If there are any nicks your neckseal will split when you pull it over your head.


    Also you'll need to either lubricate or keep powder on your latex neck seal if you want it to stay pliable and easy to get over your head. The latex gets kinda brittle over time and splits if you don't.


    Don't keep your latex neckseal near any source of ozone like electric motors or hot water heaters. The latex will degrade and crumble. I hung my drysuit in the basement and my wrist seals got super crumbly and broke.


    There are folks out there who make silicone neck seals for people who have latex allergies but I've never used one. Just google "drysuit neck seal"


    And if anyone is on Hawai'i Island and wants to go diving let me know.






    I found this one, with a hint of ribbing.



  15. Aloha all,


    Beware, there's a bunch of cash burning a hole in my PayPal account.


    I have been mostly lurking here since about January. I read FISD every day, often multiple times a day. I curse the IP.Board iPhone app as a serious impediment to my productivity, but at least it looks like I'm doing work.


    The TK related trinkets I've purchased continue to pour in slowly but it is finally time to buy some armor. But what armor to buy? I'm posting in this thread because I'm 6'5" (when I stand up straight) and it didn't seem necessary to post yet another tall size related thread. My questions stem from a healthy fear of large swaths of black undersuit.


    I wear a 44L, 33-34 inseam, 40 waist (and shrinking), 37 inch monkey arms and I weigh 245 lbs. I don't have super long legs and most of my height is in my torso.


    Below are ELP's AM and RT-MOD measurements side by side.


    PART					RT-MOD	AM
    Length of Thighs			13	13
    Length of Calves			14	14.5
    Length of Bicep + Shoulder Bell		18	15
    Length of Forearm			11	10.25
    Circumference of forearm 		14	16
    Circumference of Thigh			26	29
    Circumference around Calf Muscle 	18	21.5
    Circumference around Bicep Muscle	18	18.5
    Waist					41	42
    Cod and abdomen pieces combined height	21.5	20.5
    Kidney and butt pieces combined height 	20.5	19
    Chest Height 				12.5	12
    Chest Width				18	24.5
    Back Height				11	13.5
    Back Width				16	23


    According to these measurements, it would seem to me that RT-MOD is the way to go. I don't think I need much room inside the thighs or calves from AM. A little extra length in the RT-MOD forearm seems like a good thing too. The best reason for me to go RT-MOD looks like the slightly longer cod/ab and kidney/butt pieces? Also it sounds like Rob can customize some parts if I think they won't be long enough.


    Oh and I wouldn't mind the oversized RT-MOD helmet too. Is that EIB-able?


    What do you folks think? AM or RT-MOD?


    With Aloha,



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