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Posts posted by Troopacoola
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Not talking centurion level Tony, but as I said above. Basic is VERY basic at the moment. There are troopers out there who will build to basic, and then be discouraged due to the extra work involved. I guess what I'm saying is that EIB standard should now be basic. Too many 501st garrisons out there clear on a basic level. Then you see other troopers copying their builds, which repeats a substandard build. I honestly believe that if basic was removed, then future builders would engage more with how closer they could get their kits than at the moment. Just my humble opinion, but think we are focussing on the wrong area atmI have an issue with GMLs expecting Centurion level requirements at basic. I know other garrisons that have that problem and it's a bit disturbing. I believe it's unrealistic and takes away from those who just want to do charity work or have fun. There needs to be a balance, what that is is debatable.
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Needs to happen mate. Makes sense, there's too many wanting to clear that are no where near a standard, but then you get the basic crl argument. You know the standards the ukg have and as an armourer the basic leve canl become an area of contention. We want our guys to look the best. However, some just want the easiest route to 501st status endorses that.
Indeed Marc. This has been suggested. Starting from BBB.
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Tbh, I think you have a point with highlighting basic approval. Surely this should be the focus, I mean, decal tube stripes, plastic hand guards etc. Let's start new members off on the right track, rather than asking for corrections down the line. This would bring clearance levels across garrisons closer together. No?What about those elbow gaps?
You guys are ready to fight bit and nails for five small millimeters on brow height but don't give a nickel about 4 inches gap at elbows?!
Curious priorities in my opinion.
But yeah... body shapes and sizes..... convenient excuse.
How about this one then: disqualify "Master Replica" helmets for basic approval? Haha, nothing ventured, nothing gained!
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Correct link below...
https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=29101
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https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=29101Updated
Check your link please
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Welcome, and congratulations!
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Congratulations Sven!!!!!
Well done mate, I'm sure Centurion won't be long to follow!
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Looking good Sven.
I think the thighs still need dropping a tad especially as they overlap the butt plate.
I'd also suggest having a look at the belt, it looks a little off centre which in turn, is not allowing your drop boxes to hang equally beside the thigh covers (if that makes sense?)
Not long now!
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Looking good mate! Yeah, I'd drop the thighs a touch. Let's have a look at those thighs from the back before you cut anything
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Try flipping the ammo belt 180° it may be that you have it upside down. In terms of the sniper plate, glue one side, let it cure for 24 to 48 hours, then do the other and drop a blob of glue in the middle.Okay.... Both addons to the leg parts give me problems, aside from the fracking sniper plate, the ammo belt is a problem.
In most of the Centurion applications the ammo belt sits like this:
But if I attach it like this the ends don't end at the same part of the thigh. One side is to short:
I know it is the inner side of the right thigh but...
If I attach it like the RS Suit and some other screen references it will work:
Is this placement acceptable for Centurion or has the middle pack to be centered?
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RS specs...Hmmmmm... With the measurements in the picture I come to a rivet position at the bottom that is roughly 2cm above the bottom ridge. Somewhere else I read that it should be at 1 cm above the ridge. If I use the placement referenced in Marc's Lucas Archives photo will it be Centurion approvable?
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Troopacoola
Specifically designed for the TK.
But, I would say that lol!
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Yes, 10mm from edge to centre. Here's a pic of the RWA kit my son has
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You mean these Sven?No one got any tips concerning the placement of the split rivets in the side?
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Hi, it's as simple as a potentiometer, I do (Troopacoola) fan systems, but found that the potentiometer led to the fans squeaking a fair bit, so I opted to go down the digital route.
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Ahhh, my bad! Yeah, we used the hot water bath method before trimming and glueing the rear.
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If you mean the rear covers, we cut them at an angleDid you reshape the overall form from an oblong shape to a more rounded? Or did you leave it as it is?
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My son had the same issue, here's what he did with his..
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We will be putting in for centurion mate, need another gold RWA patchAnother RWA Centurion in the making, me thinks. ;-)
Great work, Mason. Look forward to seeing you on the front lines. :-)
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Some of the gorilla stuff needs a spray of water to activate it. Maybe that?I did try gorilla super glue but no luck. Held it in place for a few minutes and no reaction. Maybe didn’t leave it long enough?
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Superglue, or CA glue should work fine.
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Evening!Looking good Mason. A curios question though. When you say "Rigging something to keep the shins riding up." what do you mean? Also it seems your right thigh is high and catching at your butt plate perhaps adjusting it may help in your movement.
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We are going to add elastic straps at the back of the boots to attach to the rear of the calves.
We have trimmed the rear of the thighs too
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Much better mate. If you look at both pics, you can see that by extending that distance it pulls the chest round the curve of the ab plate.
Nice work!
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Try increasing the distance over the shoulders between chest and back plate. This should allow the chest to drop a little and thus tuck the bottom sides of the chest in. I'd personally give that ago first
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Tuomas first ANH build (RS)
in ANH Build Threads
Posted
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