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Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Posts posted by Troopacoola

  1. Hi everyone! Thought I would post some pics of my cleaned up version of the Pugman. Thanks to Mark at Sheartech who kindly allowed me to use his casts as a base to produce sharper casts moving away from the "rough and ready" version.

    Hope you like, and as always any suggestions and feedback are welcome!




    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk



    • Like 3
  2. The arm will need hollowing out some in order to accommodate the spring and abs tube but not all the way down it.
    Once that's done dry assemble the folding stock and dry fit it to the blaster. You can then line up and mark on the arm where you need the clip channel to be. Use the hole at the front underside of the barrel as a guide. The chanel only needs to be around 10mm in length. Drill out the channel and sand down.005f5af99d21d2d4ec3b5cb35b054232.jpg327a0e2d29bf997872f12a3aa049ff16.jpg

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  3. Ongoing helmet fit-out:
    Electrical component functionality test completed:
    1] Helmet fans fitted
    2] Hearing assist test successful
    3] Voice system with iCom test 90% successful - some feedback when running amp at 100%. I bought a $50 pair of Sony headphones, trimmed off the over head loop support and velcro'd them in. They sound output is great - really happy with the cost and performance.
    Component physical install:
    1] All hardware fits well with plenty of space to spare
    2] Cabling routes to be finalised
    3] Cabling route covers to be finalised
    Am using velcro to cover the cable routes with a still to be determined fabric/material fixed to the back side of the velcro to make inside of helmet look cleaner.
    Lots of cable running out of that lid. Could you not reduce this?

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  4. Back to the ANH E11.....
    The trigger assembly the most solid resin piece in the kit. Saying that, there is still no need to grind any resin out as there is plenty of room to fit the trigger. There is a great tutorial on this in the Blaster ref Guide, which is how I fitted my trigger. A nice little extra is that by following the ref guide you can have a working trigger function with the aid of the small spring which is included in my kits.

    The grip was cleaned up and the hex bolt fitted. in this case the bolt is resin. However, I supply all replacement metal bolts and screws etc in the kit.

    Next was to drill out the hole for selector switch. If you wanted to have this functional you could always drill the opposing side, fit a small bolt into the switch itself and then fill. 

    With a little more work, you could even install a rotary switch to add that "click" to the selector. This is a really good feature and works a treat and is also an option that BlasFX offer. In this example the selector switch for BlastFX are shown. I have also added an example using black and beige resin parts assembled so you cam see the components, along with my method for adding age.

    Once the trigger assembly was complete it was time to fit the grip.

    The grip slides nicely on to the assembly and is secured with adhesive. Once dry, the holes were drilled into the assembly (indicated by the holes in the grip) for the almost final components. The metal grip screw and "cap" were then installed.

    With the trigger guard installed this assembly is done.


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  5. Thank you Sir!  Did you find there was enouph material left to put a nut on the inside?  Or just glob it with glue down in there?  I've feeling there won't be much material left on the inside for any threading.  That screw hole kind of cones outward on the inside.
    The grip is a direct cast, so the internal features are exactly the same as the original. I drill the hole out with enough depth to accommodate the hex bolt and then glue in situe

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    • Like 1
  6. I didn't see how you handled that hole on the underside of the grip.  Not sure how to go about it, what drill size or what the deal is with that. Loving your build and using it as a guide as there are no instructions.  Thusfar I've found this can take a very long time to build putting just a little time in with it over a period of time.
    A 10mm bit will open it up e0bb7324699d4f5f59cf090aeb68fee2.jpg

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    • Like 2
  7. Looks amazing Dan. Very impressive.
    Have you made any videos specifically about weathering? I've recently received my SE-14R from rdr, and it's amazing, but looks far too clean 
    (If you consider in person workshops I'm keen and will bring snacks )
    Here is how I do my weathering effects .

    After priming and spraying silver, I do several layers 9930db57300a71dae9cc8264567b42e0.jpg9e9cb3c5c276e96c83701f95b3e4cbec.jpg46bfb6b21e7561655c56a640ec2e38fb.jpg702c5e8addd54f6988689c28f9f91bec.jpg5af68761b8b1eca26f484f71bd17013c.jpg12ce3e91d2c93b98223feb014865ceba.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

    • Like 4
  8. I would recommend painting the bolt ahead of installation. However, masking it off once fitted is no biggie.

    Hot glue or resin putty can be used to hold the bolt in place whilst you apply adhesive.

    For the more adventurous I am sure that making this functional would be possible with some small mods!

    The charging handle will have a small post drilled into it and then fitted to the bolt with some adhesive


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