dashrazor
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Posts posted by dashrazor
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yes the details are very very soft and you can get a much better detailed kit for around the same cost.
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just my opinion but i would widen the eyes leaving the original edge
like this??
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very cool (no pun intended), cant wait to see what it looks like installed.
I've solved the issue of ventilation with no need for fans and batteries and wiring etc. It does invlove a mod to the rear traps but I dont think most people would notice.
you had me wondering for a second lol
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the cod is TK for sure and the butt does look more TK than clone to me (i am no clone expert
)the handplates appear to be ANH (at least intended to be by the artist)
the shin armor is TK with clone style knee plates
the belt looks clone but with different utility box placement and a second thermal detonator in the front.
ill try to put together a full parts breakdown for this during the site maintenance downtime
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hi kirk, overall it looks pretty decent for a scratchbuild.
there are only a few things you would need to change for EIB.
here is the requirements for EIB that show what would need to be fixed on your blaster.
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No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.
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Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
the U shaped tracks and the d-ring in the front are both ROTJ details and should not be present on an ANH blaster. i would suggest removing the u-tracks and replacing them with T-tracks. you can make T shaped tracks very easily with the tines from a garden rake like this one LINK this is simple and cheap way to make the proper "T" profile tracks for the barrel
also it is not stated in the requirements but it looks like the end detail on the folding stock is attached up-side-down
other than that i would suggest you could put a coat of flat black paint over the unpainted plastic parts to get a consistent color. but that is not required for EI and completely optional
hope to see apply soon
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No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.
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Ok next round of questions ..
1. Are the drop boxs all grey ?? Or just the front face grey and the rest is white ?
Ive seen them both ways .
2. And the helmet face where the vocoder and hovi tipa are
Same thing - seen some painted solid :: some are all white in there a the outcide chin is red
3. Arm parts how many stripes on bicepts 2-3 bard to see sometimes ... .: )
sorry, I was out most of the day yesterday , when in doubt always refer to the reference photos
1: only the face of the boxes should be gray
2: the red should fill in around the vocorder and the mic tip area as well.
3: there are 2 stripes on the arm parts. on the biceps both cover strips are red, on the forearm the underside and outer most cover strip area (when wearing)
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great work Tom!
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Just wondered if this e-11 is ok to use with my TKC.
this would be more than fine for EIB standards
, for centurion level it would only need the correct ROTJ details added. -
i know, i have seen some really old pop riveted suits up on the bay and on garrison boards for 1000$+ the sad thing is new members are buying themYes, the seller was crazy thinking his old FX was worth $500
i think because the old FX kits cost over 1000$ way back in the day?
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looks pretty good, the only minor thing i see is it looks like the bottom of the chest plate is resting on the top of the AB plate. if he moved it down just a hair it would help with mobility or possible cracking when moving around.
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making a hero bucket with bubble lenses by chance?
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you need to have 501st TK access to view them
you can request access HERE -
yes, it looks that way.
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i managed to get a few more form the wii version.
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haha! i speeled it wroung
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heres a build on the RPF that is exactly what your looking to do -----------
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i use the hammered rustolium on blasters but it might be too glossy/reflective on the inside of a bucket.
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i used truck bed liner in mine, no smell after a few days of drying
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i used a cardinal red and misted black with an airbrush over the red to deepen the color. you can see its a deep, almost "blood" red
here is a sample of an approximate red i used
for the weathering i painted the suit white then weathered with charcoal dust. and lastly sealed in the armor with a clear gloss acrylic sealer.
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the am chest mod is pretty simple but making the backplate look more screen accurate takes quite a bit of work (heating and stretching the plastic).
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Hi Kendall, The rt-mod helmet is a good choice and while you are at it get the rt-mod chest and back armor,it looks better than the am chest and back.
+1
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WOW!!! fantastic
great attention to the details 
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maybe glue everything in place with strips on the inside first? the reinforce the seams and fill last? also if your cuts are all straight it will make filling the gaps a breeze
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JB weld would be my first choice. it looks like the cap is ABS? and the faceplate is HIPS. JB weld bonds nicely to both
but reinforcing the inside of the bucket and faceplate would be most important. resin, Epoxy or fiberglass perhaps? but remember to test any glue or fillers on scrap plastic first. you dont want to melt anything
ROTJ "Stunt" & "Hero": Proposals for a split CRL/EIB/Centurion prog. for ROTJ stormtroopers
in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Posted
we currently have several polls up and running on basic requirement changes, and splitting the CRL is still on the agenda for this year. you can still apply as an Endor trooper though (you do not need to wait on the CRL)
if your GML has any questions on your clearance application he can post them over on the legion side or contact me or Tom (roguetrooper) here.