Locitus

That would only apply to new orders, right Vern? If you need to order them separately for previous orders don't see how that differs from any other maker of Hovi's.

Hi As your costume stands right now I cannot approve it for Centurion. While it does check most boxes, there are an aesthetic factor to consider as well. That is where I find the most issues. You have a lot of excess plastic all around your costume that should have been trimmed off from the start. Examples of parts I see are; Chest plate - lower return edge Ab and kidney plates where split rivets are Around the cod and butt plate Shoulder bridges Inside of the top return edge on the shins Knee plate Also, I can't let the drop box enclosement pass for Centurion. Your drop box backs looks like they will be flapping around when you walk. You need to find a more stable solution. Have you looked at the inner drop boxes sold on this site? They should be a perfect fit. The cover strip of your shins, at least the left shin, looks like it's going to fall off and you can see in your picture there's a gap between the strip and the shin itself. The split rivets on the ab and kidney plate are too close to the gap. CRL states "... the heads should be approximately 5/16" diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. " I think that if you trim the armor so that you remove the excess plastic at this same area, you'll need to remove and re-do the split rivets at the same time, which would kill two birds with one stone, so to speak. You also need to take out a little bit more of the front return on the forearms and show me a better picture of your scuffed boots. All in all I think you have a lot of trimming to do, and don't forget to give it a once-over with some 200 grit sandpaper. Maybe top it off with some even finer sand paper. If you choose to go with my recommended modifications, please submit pictures in higher quality. It makes it a lot easier for me to review. If you don't have a good camera yourself, consider borrowing one from a friend. Maybe have him or her over for a beer in return. Don't feel bad though. Centurion is a big step up from EIB and we place a lot higher demands on those costumes. If we didn't, then Centurion wouldn't be what it is. I hope this doesn't put you off from trying to make the best costume you can. I'm looking forward to seeing what you can do!

You may need to cut it, but start with peeling, and cut and rubb as you see fit. Most of it should come off by peeling, and some may require more "persuasive" methods.

You can just peel off the excess E-6000 once its cured. I did that to a lot of my parts.

Correct. The ones included with AP are not EIB acceptable.

Any decals are acceptable for (ANH) centurion as long as they look hand painted. Nothing beats the real deal though. Other TK variants of course need their respectively correct decals, and should not be hand painted.

All ab plate buttons are black and arranged according to the same layout as the ROTJ Stormtrooper, with the exception of there being 5 buttons in the left button bar; buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter. I added the cursive part. Might not be the best wording, but it's late and English is not my native language. Please adjust as you see fit.

You must use language that describes the desired look without the use of pictures. While the CRL is ideally used in combination with picture examples, we can't solely rely on it being there. I am willing to admit that the buttons in the graphic look black and the CRL should therefore not state that some of the buttons should be dark blue.

Mine are just a pair of no-name brand that I got from a garrison friend. So I can't help you with that. Try searching ebay or local hardware shops for inner gloves that are supposed to be used with rubber gloves.

My inner gloves are a lycra/cotton blend. And yes, you really need them if you use rubber gloves.

Please keep in mind that the 501st legion does not support recasting and you should not promote it.

Seriously, don't paint white over black. It's a bad idea even if it does work. Get the black paint off with sanding paper. Go with lower grit (more coarse) paper and then higher grit (finer) if it's too much work to only use fine sanding paper. And be careful. Take your time with it. I've re-done my vocoder 2 times before and both times I used fine grade sanding paper.

That my friend is TK-building in a nutshell.

Keep in mind that if you want to go Centurion the Hasbro blaster won't cut it. So you may want to sell it before working on it. Or finishing the conversion and then selling it to someone who's unsure of doing the conversion by him/herself.

I remember other troopers have tried E-6000 before and it failed them, so I would not go for that. I used a loctite CA glue with a activator pen. Others have used silicon gaulk (I think it's called that) with success. Talk to Karin, she know all about these things. She also sells some very nice handguards!

I would be willing to put up a poll on this, to get the ball rolling.

You would be swimming in AM. Heavy modding would be required.

You can't. It's not made any longer. But you can by AM, it's successor. But then you might as well buy ATA since they cost about the same and ATA looks a lot nicer than AM.

And with that, you are now approved! Good work trooper.

Much better!

Looking forward to seeing your mods and pictures of them.

I moved this post to a new thread in here.

That depends on what your definition of "looks alright" is.

Hi This is my first time commenting on this as the new DO, and there are some things I would like to see adjusted before approving this. This is all to make your armor look better. Don't take it the wrong way, we all know building armor is a big task, and you've come a long way. But again, there's always room for tweaks. So here's what I would like to see adjusted. First it's the eye sockets. I think it would look a lot better if you take out the lenses and put some sanding paper to the sockets and smooth them out. It's very jagged, like you just trimmed them. I'd also like to see the ear screws painted white, as per all original helmets. It would look a lot better when your helmet is viewed from a distance, as well as close up. You've done a good job on the helmet assembly though, so take pride in that! Moving down there's about your biceps. I think that if you would move your biceps a little bit lower you would make the black undersuit show less in between the bicep and the forearm, which would look better as well. You also need to hide the shoulder bell strap going across the bicep. This might automatically be fixed if you lower the bicep, but it's a requirement that it is hidden. When looking at your your belt I can see that it's sitting to low on your abdomen plate. What you could do is put snaps on the inside of the belt, and them matching snaps on the abdomen. This will hold the belt up and the right height, and the same time help to keep it from sagging when you have the blaster holstered.so About the cover strips in the back, I think you could trim some off the top, or trim them at some angle to they follow the curvature of the thigh. Not only will this look better, but you won't have to we worried that the corners of the cover strip will poke you in the thigh when taking a big step or something like that. The front of your thighs and shins look good though! Not all of this is EIB requirements. In fact only hiding the shoulder bell strap is a requirement. The rest are only to make you look as good as possible. with the least effort. Take your time with your amor, and don't rush. You're almost there!

Once you're approved in your garrison, come back for EIB. You look great!