gazmosis

I think you know at this point what needs to be done. You need to put your chest and back on to see where they sit on your body. You can dry fit the shoulder bridges at that point to see how they sit. If they stick up a little, hit them with a heat gun or hot water to adjust the fit to form to your armor. Once you get that far, your white elastic will fall into place by itself.

There are certain parts that can use wood but those are very few. Most all parts need to be sculpted then have molds formed from that. But that is only step one. Then you must find right plastic that will form well, is thick enough to be durable yet thin enough to form detail, has UV properties to prevent yellowing, and has a nice glossy finish. Proper research and shape to your sculpts will be crucial to your success.

Absolutely perfect! Things like this happen a lot with the boxes being attached by straps alone. I just wanted to be certain they were able to be moved into proper position. A++++++++ thank you!

I am not understanding your concern how you are going to "hold down" the shoulder bridges. They are curved to sit over the curvature of your body. Once glued to your chest, they have no choice but to remain against your back.

Yes Germain...I know YOU did it....I meant in the final evaluation.

A point in this evaluation that was not brought up was the necessity of the outer edge of the drop boxes to line up with the ends of the ammo belt. Flyboy (Josh) was contacted and will post pics of this when he returns from being out of town.

You are correct, Ian. Aaron is correct, but with so many available M38 casts and even the occasional real M-38's that pop up on Ebay, I can't imagine why someone would go through the trouble of filling that groove. But if someone did the effort a filled it, it would be accepted. It would need to look really nice, though

You can get a 15 V battery small enough to fit into your gun body or the magazine?

You are correct regarding the A2. You really can't tell in that pic just how deep that channel is after the band is removed. It's pretty deep and just does not compare with the other scopes.

what voltage runs the counter system? Can the number rotation be run with minimal voltage??

Please move along. Stick with ABS or other plastic for your replacement parts. Contact the sellers listed here and see who will work with you.

Hey Adam! Thank you for your application for EIB status. Well done on the application.Let's look at your armor. CRL Requirements: All proper submission photos posted. It is always encouraged that troopers chime in to help out with things they notice. We all should take part in helping troopers to look their best. It helped you here because the only thing that would have restricted your EIB award was the non-painted scope rail on your blaster. Great job following up on that and getting the charging handle so quickly! HOLY SNAP-O-RAMA on your strapping system! But hey...if it works! Hand painting your helmet details is always a challenge but, as also stated, you did well. I would like to see the black outline a little cleaner, but overall a good job. With that, I would like to congratulate and welcome you to EIB! Other-armor Fit/Assembly: AP armor is great for thinner troopers as yourself. The only part that really sticks out to me that could use some adjustment is your biceps. They are really spacious. It would go along way to the overall look of your armor and your comfort if you sized those down a bit more. I was going to bring it up in the Centurion suggestions, but since we are talking about your biceps.....they are sitting too high under your shoulder bells. This is creating too much gap between your forearms and biceps. You could make a strap that connects your shoulder and bicep that is set so that the bicep can only go down to a point and stop. It was also suggested that maybe you might think to attach another strap that connects your forearm and bicep, but bringing that bicep down to close that gap is most important here. Something else that was noted was that your thigh pack seems to be drooping a bit. You can glue it so it stays up and covers the seam at your lower thigh. Centurion Suggestions: You have built your suit with the details that suggest you may be applying for Centurion in the future. there needs to be a little work done before you can do that, though. It is strongly suggested to paint the rivets on your left side as well as the rivet on your thigh pack. Going back to your biceps area, the straps that go across your biceps are really wide. these should be around the 1 inch wide mark as seen here:The ones on Han's armor look much thinner but they are rolled over because of what he was doing during filming. You will need to adjust your backplate so there is little to no overlap onto your kidney plate. The pop rivet you used on the cod area of your ab plate must be changed from a pop rivet to a domed head, preferrably a split rivet. Don;t paint that, though. The pop rivets on your Thermal Detonator should be changed to slotted, pan head screws. While we are on the subject of your T.D., the metal clips are way too long at the top. A minimal amount of the the clip should be showing at the top of the TD when mounted to the belt like this: You will need to obtain rubber gloves and flexible handplates You also will need to adjust your holster attachment points. they need to located in the lower portion of the belt as seen on these troopers: Yours are currently mounted at the top of your belt. I would strongly suggest changing out the white wire on your blaster's power cylinder to black. The last change that I can see that needs to be done is to trim the rear cover strip on the back of your thighs. The strips should end at the lower ridge not extend over it. With a little work, we hope to see your Centurion application! Good luck and congrats again on your EIB!!!

The CRL's, as we know, are most always going to be works in progress. A couple changes have been made and will soon be made that I felt troopers should be aware of. The CRL mentions regarding blasters that the "correct style scope" should be used. A blaster manufacturer (I have seen on Ebay) is using the M-38 A2 scopes which were never used on screen used blasters. The CRL was changed to mention the use of the M-38 and M-19 style scopes for Sterling based blasters. This applies to ANH and ANH hero. As for ESB, the vast majority of blasters were seen with M-19 scopes so it was added that the M-19 would be the preferred scope used but the M-38 would still be accepted. The change will soon be appearing on the Centurion sections on ANH, ANH hero, and ESB to specifically require the side rivets, and thigh pack attachment rivets to be painted white.

This is a well known shot of a portion of the helmets created for ANH the vast majority of which have 4 teeth cut out. There are a couple 3 tooth and 5 tooth. As we know, MOST of the three toothed helmets ended up Heros. The others, including the 5 toothed helmets are considered anomalies. Your 4 tooth approach was the way to go. To clarify, I don't ever remember mentioning 5 tooth as anything but an anomaly. I would not recommend it for EIB or Centurion.

At the back is the basic contact point of the two halves of the belt. The thermal detonator clips also help in keeping the belt together but the Velcro should be your first line of defense. Velcro at the side is actually not a bad idea to keep the belt from sagging when your weapon is holstered. I worry about the stitching showing on the outside, though. It would wreck the otherwise smooth appearance that needs to be there. Unless you plan on sewing your own belt in which case you can sew in the Velcro prior to sewing all the layers together.

Hey Josh! Thank you for your Centurion application! Let's take a look at the improvements you have made. But first........2 questions: do you have plans for maintaining your rockstar hair under the bucket ? #2 why do you stand on your head to take pictures of your ab buttons??? Anyway...... CRL Requirements: All photos for Centurion application were properly submitted and organized. Well done! After reviewing all photos, I would like to congratulate and welcome you to Centurion! Your Garrison should be proud to be beside you! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Although it won't affect your application, I would dab a little paint on your side rivets and thigh pack rivets. Keep the crotch rivet clean. The trimming you did on your sides made a WORLD of difference in the way your torso assembly looks and it brought the ab hardware placements to the 10MM from the seam locations! I am so glad you went back and did that...I am sure you like it, too! Second, I would strongly recommend taking some time one weekend and re-sizing your thighs. I salute your quest to lose weight and it shows! however, this has created a mad bunch of room in your thighs. I traced in red your thigh line in your armor as it appears to be. This is a lot of material that can be removed. This will improve and streamline the overall look of your armor as well as the comfort of wearing it. Well done as a whole!!! Congrats again!

Hey Shannon: thank you for your application for EIB! You Garrison should be proud to have another nice set of RS armor to join them! Let's look at your armor! CRL Requirements: All submission photos have been posted and your armor meets the proper standards. With that I would like to congratulate and welcome you to EIB!!! Other-Armor Fit Assembly: Other troopers have beat me to the punch but i do want to suggest that you strongly consider trimming up your sides like Germain had pointed out. This will go a long way towards an overall better fit and look to your armor. You have the room based on the overlap. This will also go towards accuracy as the rivet placements on your left side and the male snap on the right should be 10 MM in from the seam. Trimming the sides will bring them much closer to their proper place and look MUCH better should you decide to apply for Centurion. Make a check on your calf closures. They seem to be separating at the bottom. Lastly, I would scale back that bottom button on your ab plate. It is a little large compared to the others. I know it is molded larger, but the size is a little distracting. Although it won't affect your applications, I would remove the paint from your crotch rivet. It really was never there. Centurion Suggestions: With the details you have present, it leads me to believe you will be applying for Centurion. there is some work needed before you can do that, though. Your holster straps that connect to your belt need to be reduced. They should measure 20 MM(3/4 inch) wide. Since we are talking about your belt and holster, you have the holster attachments placed in the center of your belt. They need to be located in the lower half of the belt. You can see the proper location in this screen grab. The attachments on your left side need to be changed out from screws to split rivets with an 8 MM domed head. In your Centurion photos, you must show that your drop boxes align with the ends of your waist belt to pass. Your blaster will require a charging handle as Germain pictured above, You have a wonderful set of armor that can be brought to that next level with a little time and effort. We hope to see those changes made and move you closer to Centurion!

Hey Ozzy! Thank you so much for your application for EIB! This is the way an application should look. Nice work! Let's look at your armor! CRL Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted. This is just one clean build! Nice attention to detail. Well done all around! with that, I would like to congratulate and welcome you to EIB!!!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: I am pleased that I cannot find more things to comment on. Well done with that left side shim. That seam was nicely blended. Centurion Suggestions: I am sure with all your details that we will be seeing a Centurion application from you soon. Present your photos with the Centurion guide as your format. Make sure you post a good shot of your forearm wrist opening to assure no return edge here. Make sure to have that male snap installed on the upper right side corner of the ab. Lastly, I would personally remove the paint on your crotch rivet. These were almost never seen painted.

Two different thicknesses of plastic on either side of a butt joint is usually the culprit for cover strips to not sit flush. Sanding the joint might be your only savior here. Just make sure to lay out your cover strip and mark where it sits so that you come nowhere near the edge when you sand.

1st generation recast or 17th generation recast.....if it's not done with permission is bad. Period

Hey!!!! The line was, "boring conversation anyway"

I vote for Aaron's pic above.

Great craftsmanship. When one takes their time, good things are produced!

I am confused on that bend at the end that goes between the rear sight????? Why is it there? It seems that bend would make the rail sit up too high. Also, I would just eyeball the hole placements for the scope. Just align the rear foot with the hinge of the folding stock.

With all the effort you are putting into this hasbro and the thought it is demanding, you should just go straight for the doopydoos kit. There are SO many build threads on here it almost builds itself. That's just me.