gazmosis

Germain speaks wisely regarding the forgiveness of E6000. What will it effect? EIB not so much but Centurion for sure. I live by the words: "build it once, build it right". Shoot for the top!

As long as whatever thinner you use is mineral spirit based you will be fine. NO ACETONE!!! Any question, test on scrap ABS

If you are going to go with the 1/16th rail like in the top pic, he used steel rather than aluminum. An aluminum one will most likely bow and look goofy. I'd try to cut down your drop boxes before getting new ones. You might be able to make it work.

Brilliant reinforcement of the elastic on the snap ends! I'm sure many troopers will be using that trick. Nice! I have a concern regarding two things: your button plates and your thigh pack. Your center button plate in particular looks big around the edges. Looking at the archive pic that Germain provided, you see the button plate is trimmed to that the stage it sits on is visible around it. yours looks like it actually hangs off that stage. It shouldn't at all. Double check the length on your thigh pack. It should end at the rear corner where your rivet point is, not go beyond it. You've done an outstanding job on your build so far! A real pleasure to watch

Well done on that mag mod! Looks outstanding!

WOO HOO!!!!! If you paint many more layers over that, it will look like a bumpy mess. I'd strip it and start over now that you know where you are going with this.

Good work so far. Is it just me or do you maybe think you went a bit small on those tear areas?

Hey Jason! Thank you for your application for Centurion. As previously stated, you gave us a lot to look at here. Sometimes in the quest to get you approved for EIB, things are missed to prepare you for Centurion. Regardless of when certain things were picked up, some changes will still need to be done. Remember, Centurion is about the details. Let's look at your armor! CRL Requirements: All submission pictures have been posted (and then some ) You have done well paying attention to the upgrades that you did. I like that you changed out your side pop rivets to the proper domed head rivets and spaced them out properly, you changed out the pop rivets on your thermal detonator to black screws, you shortened up the straps that the drop boxes hang from. Nice work! We do need to look at some further changes that will need to be done prior to receiving Centurion. These things may not appear in the CRL, but they are still necessary for Centurion level armor. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: This point is not as critical to affect your application as it is for an overall better look but however you have your bicep straps attached to your biceps, it is causing your shoulder bells to be pulled down excessively. The top of your shoulders should be close to touching the ribbed shoulder bridges. Remember, as long as you have the bicep straps, it really is not critical that they are around the biceps. Now to the more important points: First off are your drop boxes. They are really thick. Drop boxes should be around the 1/2 inch thick. Many are even thinner as in this pic: Next are the button plates on your ab. The button plates should be trimmed to be slightly smaller than the stage they are attached to as in this pic:Your center button plate extends over the edges and your 4 button plate covers the stage completely. I didn't think ATA's button plates came like that. Both will need to be trimmed down. Next are the cover strips on the back of your calves. These should not extend past the ridge at the top. They should stop before the ridge. I wanted to discuss your chest plate a bit. You have a MAD amount of return edge on the sides and the bottom that should be trimmed off to get the proper look of your chest. Most return edges hover around 3/8 of an inch (10MM) for the larger parts. I have marked in red what can come off but I hope you do a little measuring as I used "paint" to draw the lines. Next is the power pack or thigh pack on your lower, right thigh. You did move the rivet location to the upper corner but I noticed that the length of the pack itself is too long. Everyone's thighs are different in diameter. Though however the thigh is constructed, the thigh pack should end at the rear most corner of the lower ridge and not extend beyond it. Next is your blaster. It's great to see that you upgraded from your Hasbro to a Doopy kit. However, it is required that your blaster be assembled correctly and with all parts present. Your photos of your blaster are very hard to see. They should be shot in good, direct light from the sides except for the "D" ring shot. This makes all details clear. Because of the sunlight from the side, the gloss of your paint and the angle you held the blaster at, the details are very difficult to see. however a couple things stand out to me that need correction. First is your scope rail. On a doopy or pipe build kit, the front bend of your scope rail should be inserted into the top vent hole that is behind the top t-track. Here is an example:The rear is either attached between the uprights of the rear sightOr bent to mount directly to the receiver body like on this screen used, non-firing blaster prop: A part that I did notice was missing is the bayonet lug that should be located in the spot between vent holes on the lower magazine housing side of the blaster marked here with a red arrow:I have a question regarding your front sight. I have yet to see a Doopy kit where the front sight didn't fit close to exact to the receiver front like thisYours seems to be trimmed a little off sorry to say. I would like to see some clearer pics of your blaster, though. I know this seems a little overwhelming. Please do not hesitate to contact me if you need to go over some things in more detail or I did not explain them well enough. We are here to help you That is what we are all about.

Awesome!!! Save those extra ears!

Hey Jason! Thank you for your application for EIB status. Let's take a look at your armor! CRL Requirements: EIB application thorough and complete. All submission photos posted. Your armor is a work of art. Your attention to detail accompanied by your incorporation of the original strapping system really adds a lot. I like the small details like the well painted ab buttons, the way you matched the end cut of the brow trim to the trapezoid, and that you placed your decals correctly on your helmet (specifically the tube stripes) ATA was tailor made for you. With that, I would like to congratulate and welcome you to EIB!!!!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: You have such a nice seam on your left side, it would be a shame if you didn't trim your right side overlap to match that. I would squeeze the gap in those TD clips clips in a little. The tighter the fit over your belt halves, the less likely it will be knocked or lifted off. Although not required, it would really make your blaster pop if you added a little weathering, or some silver paint to the trigger group area by the selector switch like this:A little gloss black on the grip wouldn't hurt either Centurion Suggestions: From all the details you added, it would seem you are headed for Centurion. There aren't that many suggestions I can make for improvement. If you were to put a gun to my head I would knock down the corners on the top of the thigh cover strips. They seem a little too squared off. Other than that, just follow the photo checklist and post all necessary pics! Congrats again!!

I was gonna make a real smart a** comment. Move along!

Although your lower rivet won't be seen, it will affect the other locations if evenly spaced. Your lowest rivet placement should be located where the piece of Velcro is on your ab. Keep the top location and split the difference for the middle.

There are some things needed to be done before EIB is awarded here, guys. Sorry if there was confusion.

If these suggestions don't end up working for you, I have an extra set of ears you can have.

The light has appeared at the end of the tunnel!!!!!!! What was your final color paint decision???

WAY TO GO, Paul!!! Nice eye!

Hey Jason! Thank you for your EIB application! Good to see another set of TM/C armor. It looks like you have a nice build going. Let's take a look at your armor. CRL Requirements: All submission photos have been posted except for the neckseal. There is another thing that will need followup and you can post that pic at that time. You have a good closure seam on your right side but your left side is looking too close to exceeding that 1/2 open gap. From the way your armor fits you, it looks like that gap can be eliminated all together. I would either re-take that pose with your seam adjusted closed or if it hangs open, replace the elastic at the top with nylon webbing to keep it from expanding. Either way, it will need to be presented less open. Other than that, your armor will pass for EIB. Please adjust this so we can get you in the ranks, trooper!!!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: It was mentioned by a trooper that your biceps seem a bit roomy. Although it looks true, I wouldn't worry about that too much because they seem to match the diameter of your forearms and that gives balance to the look of your armor. What is throwing this balance off are your thighs. The human thigh is very conic in shape tapering down from the top to the knee area. Your thigh armor should do the same. As Germain pointed out, the top seems fine but when the seam is seperated, you will see how much material you'll be able to remove in your knee area when the halves are squeezed together. Have someone help you with this. It's easier with a helper. Afterward, you will be amazed at the balance and streamlined look of your armor. This will also give you a chance to trim down those rear cover strips. It should stop at, not exceed the lower ridge of the thigh. The other suggestion that I have is to tame the fray on your belt. It starting to look a little bird nest-like. Get yourself some all purpose (Elmer's type) glue or fabric glue. Dilute it it water so it's more liquidy, trim the long strands and brush the diluted glue on your belt edge. this will seal the edges. It won;t stop it completely, but it will reduce it TREMENDOUSLY. You just need to hit the edge not soak the belt. Centurion Suggestions: With the details you have included in your build it would lead to believe you will shooting for Centurion. Good for you!!! There are some things that will need to be adjusted before applying. Although your holster attachment placements on your belt are right on, your straps that connect the belt and the holster are a bit long. There should only be about 1 inch showing there. Next is what I mentioned above about your thighs...particularly the cover strips on the back. Make sure you include that neck seal pic in your application. But I know you will follow the photo check list I would like to see your left forearm raised up a bit or your left bicep lowered. I can' tell if you have the strap installed that connects these two parts. Although not required, it does help in keeping this constant to reduce that gap. I'd like to see the st\crews on your thermal detonator changed from the "phillips" \type screw to the slot head, black screws like you see here. Lastly, I spent a great deal of time thinking this over. However, each time I looked it just jumped out at me yelling "FIX ME!" Helmets always look great when people take on the challenge of going for the "hand painted look". However, the hand painted look refers more towards the not perfectly straight and slightly uneven lines that one gets from painting lines without a template. These lines should not be overly splotchy and rough. This gives the helmet a look of a hurried job with less attention to detail. As you can see here, these lines have a slight thickness variance, but remain in control. The outlines of your tears and traps, though a challenge, can be tackled with a longer bristled, thinner brush and a little practice. You nailed it on the ear! you just need to match that on your other details. You have some great looking armor and you did a great build. Let's take you over the top!

I have used Plasti-dip on the inside of a helmet which has an equally strong odor, but it went away after it fully cured. That took about 4 days but it did go away. I would think this would react the same.

Let's be clear. We don't have a vendetta against ebay. There are honest, good sellers on there. However, when it comes to armor, the unfortunate truth is that some ebay sellers will tell you anything and show you any picture to close the deal. It is common to see a seller even use pictures from the 501st reference library to make you believe their armor will look like the picture. This is deception no matter how you look at it. The armor available here has been tested. The sellers are trustworthy and honest or they wouldn't be selling here. We can' t stop you from buying from Ebay, but we might not be able to help you if you do and find out it's not what you expected. We warned you!

WOW! +1 to Paul but interesting attempt nonetheless.

I totally just showed my age, didn't I?

Also add to your photo list a pic of your interior strapping

Standard automotive rubbing and polishing compounds have always served me well. Shine on you crazy diamond!!!!

A hair thin scope rail is fine if the bolts underneath are really thick and you have a resin scope. Under the weight of a real m38 a thin scope rail would bow way too much. I think it's fine.

You are missing a few pictures young man. I need a full side shot of your helmet, a close-up of your hovi mic tip detail, a picture of your thermal detonator, and a shot of each side of your blaster( make sure the "D" ring is visible.