gazmosis

TINO SPEAKS WISE WORDS!!! Had a little chuckle about that myself.

I hate the fact thst they wrecked the top asnd scope rail by whatever bolt they added in front of the scope. It's a re-assembled Sterling made from Sterling parts. You can see the weld marks in front of the rear butt and near the mag housing. It's a shame they couldn't have used a little more creativity to make it permanently non firing instead of sealing up the cocking handle slot.

It may save you a little time and money to contact your Garrison. I am sure you can find someone locally that can help out. You should really experience the build.

I would find another blaster......whoever assembled it, attached the front of the scope upside down.

Evilboy! http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27035-fs-ongoing-evilboys-aluminum-one-piece-e-11-rail-bracket/

I do know from historic sources that the hero helmets were the last ones to be produced. Once the TK's were pulled, the faceplates were combined with the x-wing helmets to make the T.I.E pilots. In looking at the helmets closely, there are enough differences to lead me to believe that they were separate sculpts from the stunt helmets. I hope Paul will chime in here. I know he will have more insight.

PANIC!!!! I am so kidding! We all have felt like you do now at some point. Evan makes some good points how to get started. Get on the ANH build threads page and start researching your approach. Most all armor kits assemble the same except for small differences in the molded parts. Find AP builds to help you with yours but any build will give you a direction to follow. Ask questions!!

Nice start! Always good to see another trooper tackling a DD kit. I don't know the level of accuracy you are looking to achieve, but if accurate is what you want, you might want a magazine upgrade. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26677-doopy-dos-replacement-e-11-magazine-run-3-now-open/.

Anytime I see someone using sandpaper courser than 180 it makes me cringe. Any sanding to achieve a smooth surface should be done progressively. For armor, all shaping can be done with 180, then move to 220, then 320 or 400. At this point you move from sanding to polishing. 600-1000-1200. Wet sanding here is a really good idea. At this point I go to liquids. Rubbing compound until a gloss is achieved. Then polishing compound. A little elbow grease here is required.

A helmet to be proud of. Excellent paint work!!

He did do it very well. Just to reiterate though, it is more trimming the magazine well than the magazine. The only thing you really need to trim off the mag is the total length and that depends on how deep you want it to sit in the mag well. Outstanding work, Russ!! A blaster to really be proud of!!!

Don't be so hung up on the bicep straps being "obvious" or not.

I really would rather have seen you cut that thigh top on this outline: I would hit your side rivets white, your power pack rivets on the right thigh white. Leave the cod rivet and male snap on the upper right of the ab unpainted. In regards to fit, your thighs look really big especially at the knee. The human thigh is conical. Larger at the top and smaller at the knee. Your thigh armor should match that. I would separate the rear seam (hopefully you used E6000) and get someone to help you. Once separated, squeeze the halves together. You will have overlap at the bottom. release the squeeze until comfortable. Mark a common line in the center to trim by. you will see how much better it looks and feels. You will need to reduce that side gap to no more than 1/2 inch. you have some nice looking armor, Sir! Also, your thermal detonator clips should be attached with slotted head screws rather than pop rivets. This will benefit you because the clips need to be farther outward towards the side caps with minimal to no gap between the clip and the end cap

RT would be too big for you. ATA and MTK are basically the same armor and still a little big for a 150 Lb. guy, AM is not passable for Centurion, that leaves AP which is nice for smaller frame troopers. Have you looked into Troopermaster???

Feel free to buy this armor. It is good quality, he is a good seller, and he has made improvements to make it more accurate.

That larger portion was a baseplate to the charging handle that actually fit into a recess in the bolt itself. No big deal to have it the way you do. As for screw size, you can use any screw with any thread pattern as long as the hole you drill for it is proper. By proper I mean the thread shaft should bite into the resin with a little bit of resistance but not too much to crack the resin.

This is just sick!!!,!

I trust you, Mark

From the look of the aerators, it might be AP the other one is just a travesty

He he.....you said neodymium

If you are cutting longer strips, make sure you clamp the one side side to keep the ruler from sliding as you cut. Make sure your blade is sharp as heck

I wouldn't install anything less than 3/4 inch for the bicep strap.

The armor you see is the armor formerly sold here as NE armor. The armor was proven to be recasted from RS props without permission. This armor, unless it is being sold privately or on Ebay, is no longer available.

Wait...there's no sitting in armor!

There is no "first timer" armor. In the TK world, you jump in with both feet or you stay out of the pool. AM and RT Mod are just too big for your frame. RS or TM would look best on you if you are ready for the investment. AP is also good for you. ATA or MTK might run a little big