gazmosis

yes that is way too wide. They should be about 20MM across or 3/4 inch.

Yes!!!

Who doesn't??? Nice job!!!!! Looks awesome

Just as long as the total length is in that 7 1/2 range you'll be cool. You control panel and end caps are slightly smaller making an increased gap. Take a little off the total length of the pipe.

That is soooooo sweet!

We both fell for it!!

It's fine if you brought the TD down to 7 1/4. Check all your dimensions on the parts: the control panel should be around 4 3/4 wide, the end caps 3/4 inch, and 1/2 inch gaps between the caps and panel = 7 1/4 total length.

Just remember to breathe. We have ALL been in your shoes and have experienced the the feeling of overwhelming information overload. Just take things one step at a time. Do it once....do it right. I wouldn't say we are so much strict as we are specific. Everyone here is willing to lend a helping hand but your research is paramount. It is all here from thermal detonator specifics to paint colors on the helmet. One step at a time.

Get the 1138! Spot on!

The ESB blasters only lacked the counter and power cylinders unless it was the "promo" blaster which added and removed several things on/from the weapon.

Very nice, Sir! Did you get a real scope? If not, it looks amazing! No power cylinders or counter? DOH!!!! ESB BLASTER......DUH!!!!

Welcome, sir!

This thread is about soft parts, so post away about your boots!!!

No one is offering favorites between the two because they are both exceptional armors. At your dimensions, I would favor ATA. But if the wait tine has you bummed, MTK is also an option. It is the same molds as ATA but with some additional accuracy improvements.

You gotta be one thin dude for AP.

Watch that line on the ear bars. The outline should be a pinstripe around the gray. Not too wide. I believe you could trim down the ear thickness just a little more. The round part is still a little thick. If you take that down another couple millimeters, your gap,at the cheeks will go away.

Yes it will. Because the crayon is wax, a damp cloth will not have an effect. Just some firm pressure on the cloth will do the trick. Unless you go at the wax with something sharp,and scratch your scope, it's really hard to mess this up.

Which TK are you going for? You have an ESB holster there which just loops around the belt worn on the right side. If you are going for ANH, your holster to belt straps will need to be converted to single strap brown or black leather straps then mounted to the canvas belt by snaps, pop rivets, or Chicago screws in the location similar to the diagram provided by Eric above.

I would still dampen a brush with thinner and smooth out some of those gray paint areas so it doesn;t look so jagged. IT will make for a much cleaner look. Nice job on the build.

That all depends on how much work you are willing to do and what version of the armor you want to end up with. ROTJ armor has MANY details that differ from the ANH suits from the helmet all the way down to the boots. If the armor was originally targeted towards ANH, I'd stick with that.

The cover strips on your forearms were never really something that jumped out at me...it was the ones on your biceps. The biceps and forearm cover strips need to be consistent. Great job on getting rid of that return edge!

WHOA Tim!!! I agree that this huge number would be cool to achieve, but making sure that peoples' armor is looking good is the number one concern. More and more people are looking straight to Centurion. EIB ends up being part of the process. Rushing your build to get to a number is not what I suggest. IT takes more time to fix a mistake than to do it once...and do it right the first time. I do love the enthusiasm , though.

The primer pen pack that Mathias suggested should be all you need. My handplates are silicone which is something the NOTHING except silicone should stick to and that worked. It worked so well that when I needed to change my gloves I had to cut the rubber glove around the handplate because I couldn;'t get it off.

You can also heat the crayon in a small vessel and drip it into the lettering. It will get into all the little crevices and cool instantly. I wouldn;t use a knife to scrap it. you might hit your paint and scratch it. I used a credit card or similar material to GENTLYscrape at the CRAYON ONLY. If you scrape too much too quickly, you may very well pull it all out of the lettering. Once you have sheered off enough of the crayon, you can polish the rest off with a t-shirt and some pressure. I like Andy's idea of leaving a little out for weathering and realism/