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Troop #11 April 20th was a two-troop day for me! The second troop was at the Indianapolis Symphony Orchestra for Star Wars: The Force Awakens in Concert! We provided the proper atmosphere for the performance by trooping the lobby of the theater before the show and during intermission. Following Legion guidelines, we remained outside the ticketed areas. Many photos were taken, and I should receive those soon, but here's the one photo I have in the mean time: We took part in the Star Wars Indiana tradition of getting photos near the Soldiers & Sailors monument (the theater is right next to it) that Indianapolis is known for. I'll also post that photo when I get it!

Troop #10 A favorite troop among many members in Star Wars Indiana is the Republic Airways Plane Pull. This is a charity event put on by Republic Airways to raise money for children's hospitals, and teams that sign up for the event (and raise money) are given their turn to, literally, pull a plane a short distance. The Republic maintenance hangar at the Indianapolis airport was set up for the plane pull itself, as well as included different food vendors, booths and activities with the local professional sports teams, and different aircraft on display. The event started with the mascots of the local sports teams pulling a small, single engine airplane. This was followed up with children directly benefiting from the charity event pulling the small plane! Star Wars Indiana was then given our turn, but we were given the rope to the plane all the other teams would be pulling, which was an Embraer 175 regional commercial airliner. Wikipedia notes the empty weight of an Embraer 175 as 21,890 kg (just above 24 tons). I was surprised that we were able to get the plane moving so quickly and covered the pull distance (15 feet) in such a short time, but we also had 18 of us pulling the plane, and aircraft are supposed to roll pretty easily. Someone was in the cockpit of the plane to apply the brake as soon as we reached the max pull distance, and they certainly weren't playing around with getting the plane stopped! Here's a photo of us pulling the plane! After we had our turn with the plane, we were let loose to roam around the open areas of the hangar and tarmac. I headed with some of our TIE pilots to go in the other commercial aircraft on display. We made sure to verify the credentials of the captain before the TIE pilots examined the controls of the plane. Not being able to negotiate the small space of the cockpit, I decided to make sure the coffee maker was in working order in the event our pilots needed coffee. Our pilots may have had the more exciting job: Plenty of photos were also taken with the smaller aircraft on display on the open areas of the tarmac! TIE pilots and rebel pilots alike had fun taking various cockpit photos, and like usual, the public absolutely loved us!

Would you look at the time, seems like it's pew pew o'clock. So let's get to it! Due to airsoft guns being outright illegal in Australia (sigh), I wasn't able to get the initial base gun I wanted. Nor was I able to obtain the import permits for a deactivated Sterling due to it requiring permission from my states AG. So instead, I acquired a 'basic build kit' from BlasterFactory. The BF E-11s are based on the traditional Sterling SMGs used in the OT films; where as the Rogue One and anthology series E-11s use an airsoft variant as the base, both real and casts. So basically this build is a kinda love child of the two, or a mutant.. anyways, the primary reference I used for the build is this one from the reference library: It is what I've been referring to as the 'hero' version. Much like OT blasters, there's decent variation between the E-11s we've seen on screen in recent years, so I wanted to have a specific 'fallback reference' to come back to, despite the airsoft/sterling differences. I also prefer it's scope rail over the block ones so there's that too. Delivery was super quick with no import issues thankfully. My previous experience importing blasters hasn't gone so well in the past. Despite me jumping through the many hoops that be our ridiculous import laws, I had one of my resin blasters quite literally broken and destroyed by customs (with what I still believe was malicious intent). Here's how I received that one: Forever salty about that, but anyways, here's the basic BlasterFactory E11 with a (not destroyed) resin E11: She's a beaut. Chris really does fantastic work. - Got it dis-assembled and ready for prep: -Vintage folding stock was delivered with no issues either: -Sourced a vintage R1 appropriate scope that was re-purposed for civilian use and repainted, so it needed stripping: - After removing it from the mount I used acetone to remove the blue paint which was easier than expected. The large optic ring was shiny brass so I repainted with hammer finish followed by flat clear, which was the closest match to the rest: I did keep the original mounting screws, but still have the mount itself if anyone's interested in that sort of stuff. - Also bought the replica 'Surefire' flashlight and rails. Link to my rails post HERE Flashlight link HERE. - As mentioned before, the new era E-11s use a number of different scope rails/mounts so I just bought one from BlasterFactory. The counter mount isn't accurate but I'll probs mod that in the future. Ordered a vintage end cap too, but decided against the vintage grip as there's almost no difference besides the age and weathering. I do plan on swapping some minor stuff too, like the stock screws for example. Sterlings had a smooth dome where as the R1 version had flat head ones, and the BF replica uses hex ones. The aluminum folding stock also uses grub screws instead of a pin-locking system but that's part of the design with the reproduction so I don't think there's much I can do there. Another is the rear sight screw being flat-headed instead of a hex, I think? Will have to double check, but this is just me being picky. - For the Hengstler, I'm waiting until I can find a vintage small eagle version for a good price, but for the time being I just used an already finished resin one I had spare, though it is a medium eagle one (with a small crack/split). I did print up a Rogue One style counter (thanks Trooper96) but haven't gotten around to getting it completed just yet: After getting almost all the required parts, it was now time for primer and paint. - I painted certain pieces (barrel for example) with straight-up flat black, but parts like the mag-well, front sight and rear catch got coats of etch primer to retain as much detail as possible. - Got the trigger housing/grip assembly and power cyls complete, then slightly weathered for now. Just sandpaper for the grip, but for the cylinders I used gun-metal paint and liquid latex before the flat black, then removing the latex to reveal a gun metal colour instead of the base aluminium, finished with flat clear. Everything here got the same black and clear, though the selector switch is untouched at this point: I used a thin disc magnet glued to the base of the cylinders to attach it, this way the mag-well details aren't ruined by glue or anything. The magnet is strong enough to reach the magazine inside and is secure enough that it won't fall off easily. - Probably unnecessary, but the main body tube got some etch primer for texture before the other etched parts were attached and ready for final paint. When painting/priming I suspended most parts from wire and cut coat hangers. For body tube primer and then final paint, I used a set-up similar to what Chris does in THIS video and can't recommend it enough, made everything way easier. - Now, the final paint was rustoleum hammered with flat clear. I tried multiple paints and primer combos on scrap aluminium before settling on the etch+hammered+flat clear. I wanted to closely match the vintage parts without repainting them and I am happy with the result. I did consider trying wrinkle paint but felt the forces of Vern cursing me so I decided against it. Because this is a weathered build I also applied gun-metal paint to spots across the blaster, followed by liquid latex before the hammered. Same as what I did with the power cylinders. - Found the sling mount and talon swivel thingies at a local gun store which was a bonus. It was easily swapped with the bayonet lug. (Still really wanna use a sling with the R1TK, crl update maybe? Plz? I beg) - Bought some "M-Loc t-nuts" for the rail, these seem to be the best solution to attach it securely for trooping. I did this step almost last and it was a pain, I'd suggest doing it earlier in the build. I couldn't use the included rail screws as they were too short, so I used the ones that came with the t-nuts. Not accurate, but it'll do for now. I found the t-nuts locally but you can find the same type on Amazon HERE. I picked up some accurate t-track and installed it using THIS method as hot water didn't work for me. I cut the tracks to these lengths: 1 x 7.25" 4 x 6.5" 2 x 2.5" Once installed they're actually quite secure, I only used glue on one that was a little loose. And without further ado, here it is completed (for now): (scope works too, couldn't pickup the crosshairs with the pic but its way more clear irl) With R1 being ANH adjacent I was going for a more 'real' look and feel with this build, more Sterling and less airsoft if you will. Total weight comes to 2.2kg/4.85lbs for anyone wondering. This was my first proper, full blaster build and I'm very happy with the final product. Test-trooped with it too and everything held up great, even against some VERY grab-happy younglings. My resin and printed ones would've had pieces break off in that situation. Still got some upgrading to do, gotta get a vintage counter, add a dome hex bolt to the mag and a lil more weathering, but I'm deeming it finished as of now. (is anything ever truly "finished" in this hobby though xd). I also can't wait to see how it fares in the coming years, with the wear and tear of trooping I really hope it gets more of that grubby, beat-up R1 look to it. Side note. Unfortunately I had to ditch the vintage stock because of issues when installing. The catch sits further back on the vintage one and doesn't lock into the folded position, even when swapping the catch parts with parts from the included aluminium one. I really tried to make it work without any serious modifications but it just won't. It also didn't wanna work with both the aluminum and vintage end cap for whatever reason.. Really disappointed as it not only wasn't cheap, but it looks, sounds and feels amazing compared to the aluminium. The only bummer of the build. I do plan to build a non-weathered version, expanding on what I've leant from this build. I am also considering doing a few R1 E11s in a run at some stage, once I work out the most viable (and accurate) parts from the currently available vendors/sellers that is. Now, now it's time to blast some rebels!!

Howdy Folks. I found some photos of myself in high school wearing my MovieFX armor. This had a three peice helmet and was made of HIPS. I saved up three paychecks and sent two money orders to Germany IIRC. That was over twenty years ago and a lot has changed, I no longer have my old armor for one. Recently I found a rotocast of a screen used Move Along helmet in my garage from the same time period, it sparked interest in me to recreate some old props that I miss. Hopefully I can contribute more to the 3D Depositary as in the past two years have successfully self taught CAM/CAD. You can find my ANH Hovi tips and soon I will have some ROTJ tips as well. Have a great day! P.S. I Think I'm going to buy a MovieFX suit again, although I love the TM suit.

Lighting of the Armor There are 4 parts that need lighting to be screen accurate: - The jetpack grill - The two gauntlets (2x red lights) - The chest armor (1 red light on right side) The jetpack grill was straight forward as I already had done the red transparent part (see thread above) inside the top grill. I simply put a white light you can find at any hardware store that has a remote and works on 3xAAA batteries. I will last several 10’s of hours before replacement, as with a remote no issue opening the top cover each time to power it or shutdown. For the other parts, I went with easiest way forward for me, which was to use discrete LED. The ones I picked are rectangular 2x5x7mm red LEDs that work with 15-20mA/1.9-2.2V from Amazon. I have put the link belowand hope it will stay there, but these are pretty standard and can be easily replaced by Digikey/Mouser equivalents. https://a.co/d/a1I6r5v I used a small 3xAAA battery pack with rechargeable batteries that generates 4.4V and will also last 10s of hours in the Gauntlet (around 8-10h on the chest), which is perfect for using with the LED (I put 2 diodes in series). I simply added a small resistor adjusted to number of diodes to limit current. (ex: 4ohms for 2 x 2 diodes). For the 4 squares in the gauntlets, I used 4 LEDs (2 x 2 in series), for the larger rectangle, I used 6. As for the large rectangle in the chest, I used 20 (10 sets of 2 diodes in series). I glued them on an aluminum sheet (from dollar store), it helps reflect back the light in the right direction. The reason for the aluminum is to dissipate the heat from the LEDs, you don't want those to heat up and melt the PLA. As those are still discrete LEDs, you have to diffuse their light to have a uniform red glow. I used 2x 0.3mm layers on white PLA sheets I printed, cut and glued in front of the transparent red plastic of the gauntlet/ chest armor. I soldered them, then added a layer of insulating tape between the leads and the aluminum sheet to avoid shorts. I also potted the lead in clear silicone to further insultate and prevent leads from moving around. and attached them to the gauntlet with white duct tape (so that they can be removed if broken). Took me around 3h to get it done for all the parts, pretty straight forward stuff. Could be nicer looking, but nobody sees it…! N.B. I added aluminum foil on top of the duct tape and secured it with yet another layer of duct tape to block the light... otherwise the armor was glowing from the inside 😊 Below is a schematic of the assembly and basic concept of LED assembly. You should do your own circuit and validate with someone familiar with these kind of circuits prior to assembling the lighting system Below is the LED arrays prior to soldering and insultating. Unfortunately, I forgot to take picture after final assembly... The inside of the gauntlets after assembly Very difficult to take pictures of the light with a phone without over exposing the light/ under exposing the armor (phones hate LEDs), but here is a first pic that show the functional light. The most realistic view is actually from reflection on the floor…! For nicer images, I did use my reflex on the chest with two light settings and take some longer exposure to get the color right, gives a pretty good idea.

A bit of delay as I was completing the lights for the jetpack, chest and gauntlets (will post some nice pics later, but very satisfied with low cost solution to get screen accurate lighting ). Here is one nasty part that gave me a lot of trouble... the ABS Abs section Probably the most challenging part is going to be the ABS section. The canon pictures are showing flexible armor With only one seam on the right side. On top of being accurate, I really did not want a hard armor, since either will be too large of a fit, or will be very uncomfortable (I can relate with my sith trooper). So I decided early on I would cast the ABS. I designed a mold out of 3D print (+bondo+ filler+ clearcoat to get perfect smooth finish) based on many pictures. 3D models online are not perfectly accurate and of course cannot be made flat. I will have the 3D model available on my Etsy soon for everyone. It had to be printed in 4 sections on my large printer to be approx. 330mm x 1000mm, as I am 5’8’’ /165lbs but I want the ABS mold to be fitting a bit larger/taller troopers if needed. casting material So I did a LOT of research on best suited material (I didn’t want to go to silicone, unless last resort as it cannot be painted ( except with costly stuff) and with the size, would be also costly. I went with Smooth-on Tuff Stuff 15, which is supposed to be designed for cosplay. Ok, that was a learning experience which cost me 4 full bottles, chat with Smooth-on tech guys, frustrations,… I colored it with so-strong pigment white and black to end up with a grey. Just black is not accurate or enough qty. Lessons learned: - Works great if : - You cast it with a room that is 20-23C. Don’t do it in hot or cold environment. The foam WILL collapse - You have to use the proper mold release and don’t be cheap on it, urethane is very sticky - Don’t remove it out of the mold before 24h, even if they say 3h,… it WILL collapse in some areas - Mix it with color in part B only. Mix it with mechanical mixer ( I used Allway HMQHelix paint mixer drll attachment on Amazon) in a high container (from 1$ store- you will throw it away) so that your mixer on your power drill will not inject air into it. Mix it for 1min at full throttle, after the first 30s, poor in new container, otherwise you will have some areas that will not cure. - Once mixed…you have 1min to poor it and level. You’ve got to be fast and accurate as it will expand 4x, not to have thin and way too thick - You have to put a plate with stoppers over it to control thickness uniformity (aim 8-9mm) and have a nice surface finish. - Even with all this, you will end up with marble finish (after several chat with smooth-on staff) , but surface finish will nice and even, so when you apply the paint it will be smooth and nice. I used Tulip grey fabric spray paint ( you can get it at Michael’s if your in US or Canada). Fabric spray paint is the best for this flexible material. It’s scary when you apply it, but when dried it is very uniform. Below are images of the mold open and closed with the cover (showing white stoppers to have 8-9mm thick ABS ( I tried several thickness and this is the optimal for this product). Here is the ABS as demolded. Painted The ideal is to use straps on the ABS to support weight of the belt, cod and holster. I used velcros from brand 'Velcro' heavy duty, white from Amazon) inside and outside to secure the parts to the ABS

Whoever says that you're done with working on your armor once you get approved is lying. So here I am, once again! Aside from the usual clean-up and crack repair, it was time for something more unusual: Bleaching my armor Now, if you've taken a look at my troop log, you might have noticed that every since June last year my armor color hasn't quite matched up with that of my fellow troopers. Long, long hours of trooping in the sun can do that to ABS. After a bit of looking around and researching, I stumbled across the fact that you can bleach your armor. Here is a good tutorial. First things first, I got rid of everything that didn't need bleaching or that might make the process more difficult. Just look at this part of my helmet: you can clearly spot which parts were covered by the ears and which had some sun exposure! By taking my helmet apart I could more or less guarantee equal sun exposure during the bleaching process, as well as making sure the screws, the lens foil or the rubber parts wouldn't get bleached by accident. The paint however won't be impacted by the bleach. Similarly, I made sure to remove padding and strapping wherever possible. For bleaching the armor I used this hair bleach. I put a dollop of it onto the cardboard and painted a layer onto my armor. I then wrapped the armor in clingfoil and sealed it as airtight as possible with see-through tape. Remember to only use bleach whilst wearing skin protection and being in a ventilated area -- I forgot the gloves at first and my skin got really itchy and a bit spotty. Once I had everything wrapped up, I put the armor parts out in the sun, making sure to give them the most sun exposure they could get. Originally, I had planned on leaving them there the entire afternoon whilst I relaxed inside, but it was a rather windy day and I instead spent the next two hours playing catch with it in the garden. After those two hours I decided enough was enough -- at this point it was fairly likely that all the tumbling around would mean risking cracks and there were storm clouds coming up anyways -- so I carefully removed the cling wrap and wiped off all the bleach with water. Since I was already dedicating that day towards armor maintenance, I decided to give everything a good clean up as well, getting rid of some of the scuffs with a magic eraser. At a first glance, my armor certainly appears to be less yellow than before. I didn't get around to bleaching the whole armor, but only the more yellowed parts -- shoulders, helmet... anything with sun exposure from the top -- so we'll have to see just how well I will fit in with my fellow TKs at the next troop.

Troop #47 G-Note Comic Con Bellahouston We attended a small local comic con raising funds for Glasgow Children's Hospital charity today.

86. Bradley's Honor Walk - Rancho Santa Margarita, CA - Sun. 4/21/24 (ANH-S #56, FTE #65) TK-61490 Celebrating TK-4/21 Day with TK-62345, SL-88667, TK-20413, and TK-50311 - we were at our post supporting organ donation awareness!

... Oops, I did it again~

Troop 3+4 Gold Coast Supanova April 13+14

Mision 1 22/11/2023 – MADRID – VISITA HOSPITAL UNIVERSITARIO LA PAZ

41. 21/04/2024 - TORREJON DE LA CALZADA - MADRID - II DUATLON MENUDOS CORAZONES - Stormtrooper ANH Stunt

7) April 20th, 2024 - Star Wars (for our UWS Bravo Explorers) (Greenville, SC)

Doing some forearm trimming on a rainy Sunday. Next step is to get them sized and then move on to the biceps. Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk

What do you mean, it's been almost a month without memes??

Hey all, I'm hoping to document my first order TK build here! This will be my first build, and I will inevitably have a million questions, so I'm hoping I can have some guidance! Here are my current plans: My dream is to make the TFA version of the trooper, as this design is what truly got me invested in stormtroopers years ago when I first saw them walking around Hollywood Studios. The DN kit is obviously intended to be used as a TLJ/TRoS suit, but from what I can tell, it can be made into a TFA kit. So that leads me to my next question, are the only differences between the two versions the helmet, forearms, and cod piece, or are there more? My plan is to order the individual TFA pieces from Imperial Surplus, and make both versions of the suit. Long term, id like to have an approved TFA kit, TLJ/TRoS kit, and Executioner kit. Lofty, but doable I think. As far as the helmets go, I would love to have both of the DN premium helmets, however, im not keen on dropping nearly $1,300 on the two of them. I will certainly get the premium TFA one, however, for TLJ, im going back and forth between the premium and standard line. The premium line helmet is very accurate. The standard line helmet is slightly inaccurate beneath the mouth, using the TFA chin. I thought about converting a black series helmet, as the chin is more accurate, however, I have quite a large head, and worry it won't fit. I have 3D printed 5th Horseman's F11-D, and SE44-C. Geeky Pink seems to be the go-to for gaskets, however, I am looking for rubber ones, as I hope to apply for centurion. I believe there are runs of accurate metal holsters, as well as well defined resin hand plates, both of which I hope to purchase. In addition, I may upgrade to Dino's spats. Any guidance and/or tips are greatly appreciated! I have completed a few ANH TK kits before this, and I'm excited to add this to the roster!

Premium Anovos Helmet is arriving Monday!

I got to spend the majority of the day working uninterrupted Anyway I took the clamps and magnets off the forearm and it looked good so I stuck the final cover strip on and hung it up, along with one of the interior cover strips on the right bicep. After I hung those up I discovered a simple but excellent way to catch ABS waste, that being a tupperware. I also got to work on the legs, and trimmed pretty much the entire left leg, only thing I didn't get done was the top of one of the shin halves. I trimmed the top of the thighs and bottoms of the shins completely, I left the bottom of the thighs at at 5mm and the tops of the shins at 10mm, tomorrow I'll work on the right leg, and fitting. Today was quite productive. (Pictures have been added!)

*WonderCon 2024 - Anaheim, CA - Sat. 3/30/24 (ID & Lt. Gauge)

Back to MA (memes anonymous) for you, you didn't even manage your 1 month chip.

Forearms and biceps rough trimmed and taped so we can size, then glue. Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk

Also don't cut into corners, best to drill then cut, the round hole should prevent splitting

Mision 5 03/04/2024 (MAD) SEMANA DE LA SALUD DE GETAFE

Mision 4 [BURGOS][06/04/2024] 40 ANIVERSARIO ASOCIACIÓN AUTISMO BURGOS

Mision 3 04/04/2024 - GUADARRAMA (MADRID) - VISITA ADISGUA como colgar fotos en la nube

Mision 2 16/12/2023-MÓSTOLES (MAD) - MERCADILLO SOLIDARIO COLEGIO VILLA DE MÓSTOLES

Thanks for those reference photos! Due to an interview, hand pain, and getting ready for a vacation, I've not spent much more time on this, but I hope to have a few more hours soon to plug away at this.

I like to use a pencil, mark in a few places then lay some masking tape as a guide. Not sure if you have painted or stickers, if it's stickers you can lift with a knife an pull off, if painted you could use some mineral turpentine and buff any residue with some polish

It's BBB day!!! Just ordered my boots and the chiffon. Once I get it coated in plastic dip I'm going to start drawing where I want the cracks and different sections.

I think you will find that gap will be reduced once worn

Completed the new detonator: Install on the spine plate just using a couple of wood screws: Been working on some refinements to my suit-up process. * Put spat on the shin before putting shin on. This puts less stress on the spat than trying to spread it open and putting it on with shin already on leg. * Attach leg gasket to thigh before putting thigh on. This will be much easier than putting the gasket on first, then trying to get the thigh on properly without shifting the position of the gasket. Here is my suit-up process. All steps are done by myself unless otherwise is mentioned: 1. Put under-suit on. 2. Put on neck seal and balaclava. 3. Put shoulder/arm gasket on. 4. Put thigh garter belt on. 5. Put lower torso on. 6. Attach gaskets to thighs, put on thighs, attaching thigh support straps to garter belt. 7. Put spats on shins, put shins on, tucking gaskets inside. 8. Slide up shins, put on boots, slide shin down over boot, position spat. 9. Attach cod piece to butt plate/spine plate. Hang spine plate on back of lower torso. 10. Attach cod to front of torso. 11. Put fabric pouches on belt, put belt on. 12. Attach shoulder bells to upper torso, put on upper torso. 13. Put on biceps. Have helper buckle bicep under shoulder bell. 14. Put on forearm. Have helper attach gasket to inside of forearms. 15. Put on gloves. 16. Put on helmet.

Ha! It was bad enough when I started obsessing over the different sabers, let alone this! 🤣

First enhancement, replace the solid resin detonator with an accurate, two piece 3D printed detonator. The model came from here on the FISD forum. It is sooo much lighter than the resin. Painting the tube and the enclosure using the Behr satin black and gloss white:

Congratulations, trooper!

Many thanks. I have stickers, so will give that a shot.

Thank you so much! I appreciate your help!

nevermind its the heavy gunner vest, i found it

Perhaps this guy? looks like it's just an ammo pack

Here's a photo of my shoulder straps as well https://photos.app.goo.gl/oNr1ozuqGPA2nwbw6

Congratulations !!!

Congratulations!!!

Thanks for reaching out to me Gerald! I appreciate being encouraged.

Our Blastech section is full of different version E-11's and info https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/116-blastech-e11/, down the rabbit hole you go

[snip] ...Heh. I actually spend last weekend watching ANH frame-by-frame looking at any scenes that had E-11s, so you certainly see how different the screen-used ones are. For me personally, it just looks more complete with the counter and the cylinders, but given the variations, there's certainly not single 'right way'. Thanks for that. Heck, even googling RS Props and resin E-11 has helped. I've now seen pics of the "Pugman" which wasn't a term I was familiar with, so I'm sure all the details will come into view. I've emailed the seller as well in case they knew more about it. But as I say, I suddenly became concerned today about the risk of ruining something by modifying it. I mean, sure, it's mine, and I can do with it what I want, but just want to check these things first.

Troop 124: 4/16/2024 - Reading Celebration - Camas, WA (291st troop overall)

Approved!!

I thought a lot more about the shoulder strap issue. And then I didn’t because I kept getting stuck. So I did some other stuff, like trimming the belt, just to feel like I was still making progress. Following the Billgram: I trimmed the length with the 3-5mm margin from the main blocks. I found that a metal straight edge with some scrap ABS sheet to build up to ~4mm worked well as a guide. I’ll do the same with the ammo belt when I get the replacement from WTF. That was a nice aside. The rest of the trimming I will do later. So, for the chest plate, I had a really difficult time finding symmetry so I could find a centerline and would have a decent reference to draw some cut lines. As the left side came up higher than the right, I thought I’d measure the side cut-outs and then use the difference as a guide for trimming the top left. I used this crude method of taping a USB cord along each edge: You can see that I marked the length by wrapping a piece of painter’s tape around the cord. “But wait,” you ask. “The lengths are the same!” Yes, they are. So much for that idea! Upon inspection, I did notice that the left side had a little bit more return edge leftover than the right side. So I trimmed that down too, but only gained maybe a few millimeters. I had a conversation with Walt about this shortness issue, too. He rightly pointed out (and it was pointed out here too) that there is nothing in the CRL about how many shoulder strap ribs overlap, but at the same time I don’t know that he felt that this chest plate was out of spec with his standards. The other WTF builds that Glen pointed out surely seem to have more material to work with. And the chest plate seems angled out where the straps connect. I have neither. I decided that enough is enough, and that I was just going to go forward and see what happens. I had to make some assumptions about what symmetry means here. I placed the chest plate on my table, and put the left side over the edge. I marked and cut: Getting the neck right was where I wanted to ensure some symmetry, too. With initial trimming, it had fit like this, where it was very uneven and biting into my neck: I took some measurements and decided that about a 150mm diameter circle was a good guide for trimming. It seemed to align with my neck and allowed space for the neck seal. A good tracing and cutting followed, and then a go at Glen’s ‘box’ method for fitting. With a 1-big + 2-small rib overlap, this is how it looks: Left side: Right side: I feel like the box is a bit too deep. As you can see, there isn’t a lot of overlap to be had. It was quite awkward trying to dry fit this onto the real me without help. Time to look for a mannequin torso or something. Then I will also be able to work more on shoulder strap shaping.

--------------- You can see the brow goes from angled down (above) to perfectly straight (bottom). Angled down. ----------- Straight. -------- Also in this picture, notice how on the eyes are assymetrical, with the helmet's right eye having a "bump" on the bottom, close to the nose. You can see it protrude, and it is indeed very key aspect of the R1TK. However I believe this to be of higher tier in either EIB or Centurion, but that's not needed for basic. Glen Dillon, the designer of the R1TK helmet models, confirmed this assymetry. As noted by Paul Prentice and Ian Reach (the experts on the Crystal packs): "and most notably the slight squint in the right eye - that Glyn Dillon has confirmed they deliberately added as an homage to Liz Moore (the sculptor of the original ANH TK helmet) - is not present in The Mando opening scene buckets" - Ian Reach --------- BTS Pic, you can see it more clearly in this shot from the LFL archives. Below is the bucket 3d model Glyn Dillon made himself for the Mimban TK's, which deliberately show the assymetry of the eyes. ------- I took the liberty to flip the image to see the assymetry better.

Welcome to the FISD! Below, in the next 3 posts, you will find the lists of our Imperial Attachés. These are respected folks who have gone above and beyond the call of duty, and have been selected to welcome you to the world of shiny white armor! They are volunteers whose duties (in part) are to assist you on a local level to achieve your goal of joining the 501st Legion as Imperial Stormtroopers. Not all Garrisons, Squads, or Outposts may have them, in which case you should refer to the one that is closest. If you wish to contact your local Attaché regarding local events, activities, etc., you can PM (personal message) them here by simply clicking on their highlighted screen name, (example: @justjoseph63) Please note that again, these are volunteers, and may not be able to get back to you immediately, but if you have trouble getting in touch with someone, please feel free to contact @Nairy via PM. If you are a 501st approved Trooper who wishes to join the ranks of the Attachés, please get in touch with @Nairy and/or visit http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/15252-fisd-attaché-program/ Each Garrison is shown in ORANGE. Click on it for a direct link to their site. Post 1: United States Post 2: International Garrisons Post 3: Outposts (work in progress) An asterisk ** next to the Area Served means that the Attaché is verified active as of 2024. An asterisk ** next to the Area Served means that the Attaché is verified active as of 2023. An asterisk ** next to the Area Served means that the Attaché is verified active as of 3/1/19. An asterisk ** next to the Area Served means that the Attaché is verified active as of 6/01/18. Thanks, and again, welcome to the home base of "Troopers helping Troopers"! Location Garrison/Squad Attaché Attaché contact Area served/Armor/Offices held ALABAMA Alabama Garrison Chris @bmth chris Montgomery ANH-S ** ALASKA Alaska Needed -------- ------ ARIZONA Dune Sea Garrison Eric @GoofTrooper Phoenix, AZ ANH-S ** ** ARKANSAS Diamond Garrison Needed -------- ------ CALIFORNIA Southern California Garrison Orange County Squad Jeff @Oztrooper Orange County, CA ANH-S/ESB, Armorer ** Justin @TheRascalKing Orange County, CA ANH-S/ANH-H/ESB/HWT/RO/TFA, Armorer, Former DPRO ** ** ** Los Angeles Squad Michael @TK6682 Northwest Los Angeles County, CA ANH-S/ESB/TFA/Concept ** ** Ardeshir @equuspolo San Fernando Valley, CA ANH-S/ANH-H/ESB/HWT/TFA/TLJ/TLJ-E ** ** ** Sam @TieRacer LA & San Bernardino/High Desert Area, CA ANH-S ** Inland Empire Squad Needed -------- ------- San Joaquin Squad Adam @Atom661 Bakersfield, CA ANH-S ** Channel Islands Squad Needed -------- ------- Central CA. Garrison David @tat2trooper Sacramento, CA ANH-S ** South Valley Squad Rebecca @sharkbait Fresno, CA ESB Imperial Sands Garrison Needed ------- San Diego, CA Golden Gate Garrison Tony @ukswrath ANH-S/TFA/HWT, Former DXO, Armorer, FISD Diplomat ** ** Peninsula Squad Sha Sha @shashachu San Francisco ANH-S, Asst. Squad Leader, Former DO ** ** ** COLORADO Mountain Garrison Needed -------- ------ CONNECTICUT Connecticut Garrison Ezra @Alay Hartford area ANH-S/ESB/HWT, GCO/Webmaster/Former Det. Leader ** ** DELAWARE First State Garrison Needed -------- ------ FLORIDA Florida Garrison Tampa Bay Squad Ken @PiettLives Tampa Bay ANH-S, Trooper Academy CO ** ** ** Chuck @TK 33773 Tampa Bay ANH-S ** Everglades Squad Needed -------- ------ Makaze Squad Mike @msouza Windermere (Orlando) ANH-S ** ** ** Parjai Squad Needed -------- ------ Squad 7 Doug @DUGJAX ANH-S, GML ** Honorary Attaché Joseph @justjoseph63 Live Oak ANH-S/ANH-H/HWT, Former Attaché Ambassador, DO, XO. DL ** GEORGIA Georgia Garrison Ocmulgee Squad Needed ------- ------ Outlanders Squad Needed ------- ------ Venator Squad Jorge @zv288bot North West Atlanta ANH-S ** ** ** Caleb @MaskedVengeance Far Northwest Georgia ANH-S, Former Attaché Ambassador, Current DCoG ** ** Coastal Empire Squad Needed ------- ------ Terminus Squad Chris @PhoenixTrooper Atlanta Area ANH-S/TFA/DTH, Armorer ** ** Nemesis Squad Christine @Cricket Atlanta Area ANH-S, GML, Squad Leader ** ** ** Andrew @fokker210 Atlanta Area ANH-S CoG ** ** ** HAWAII Pacific Outpost Needed ------ ------ ILLINOIS Midwest Garrison Needed ------ ------ INDIANA Bloodfin Garrison Brian @Tilheyra Indianapolis, Indiana metro area TKS ** Northern Darkness Needed ------ ------ IOWA Central Garrison Needed ------ ------ Imperial 80th Squad Ben @Buttons Omaha, NE ANH-S ** ** ** KANSAS 70th Explorer's Garrison Needed ------ ------ KENTUCKY Bluegrass Garrison Needed ------ ------ LOUISIANA Bast Alpha Garrison Needed ------ ------ MAINE New England Garrison Needed ------- ------ MARYLAND Old Line Garrison Alex @Alikh D.C. / Baltimore ANH-S ** ** MASSACHUSETTS New England Garrison Needed ------- ------ MICHIGAN Great Lakes Garrison Needed ------- ------ MINNESOTA Central Garrison Needed ------- ------ MISSISSIPPI Rancor Raiders Garrison Needed ------- ------ MISSOURI 70th Explorer's Garrison Needed ------ ------ Garrison 66 Needed ------ ------ MONTANA Timberline Garrison Needed ------ ------ NEBRASKA Central Garrison Needed ------ ------ Imperial 80th Squad Ben @Buttons Omaha, NE ANH-S ** ** ** NEVADA Neon City Garrison Brien @Harbinger Reno, NV ANH-S ** ** ** Matt @thechosenhitman Las Vegas, NV ESB ** ** ** NEW HAMPSHIRE New England Garrison Randy A. @magni Providence, RI, and Mass. ANH-S/HWT/TKC ** ** ** NEW JERSEY N.E. Remnant Garrison Anthony @Redforce Northern New Jersey ANH-S ** NEW MEXICO Dewback Ridge Garrison Brandon @elwessbrandon Albuquerque ROTJ ** ** NEW YORK Empire City Garrison Allan @allan1313 East L.I., Queens, Brooklyn, Manhattan ANH-S/ESB/HWT ** ** Steve @starsaber25 East Long Island ANH-S/ANH-H/ESB, GML, DCoG ** ** Hudson Valley Squad Needed ------- ------ Garrison Excelsior Needed ------- ------ NORTH CAROLINA Carolina Garrison Shawn @CrookKnight Charleston NC area HWT, Armor & Pack Expert ** ** NORTH DAKOTA Central Garrison Needed ------- ------ Imperial 80th Squad Needed ------- ------ OHIO Ohio Garrison Jeff @StrmTRPR85 Columbus, OH ANH-S OKLAHOMA Oklahoma Garrison Needed ------- ------ OREGON Cloud City Garrison Needed ------- ------ PENNSYLVANIA Garrison Carida Needed ------- ------ StarKiller Garrison Needed ------- ------ PUERTO RICO Puerto Rico Garrison Christian @v7sg San Juan, PR ANH-S/ESB/TFA, GCO ** ** ** RHODE ISLAND New England Garrison Randy @magni Rhode Island ANH-S/HWT/TKC ** ** ** SOUTH CAROLINA Carolina Garrison Needed ------- ------ SOUTH DAKOTA Central Garrison Needed ------- ------ TENNESSEE Mid South Garrison Needed ------- ------ Mos Nooga Squad Needed ------- See @MaskedVengeance Chattanooga, TN area ANH-S, Former Attaché Ambassador, Current DCoG ** ** Blue Sun Squad Needed ------- ------ TEXAS Star Garrison South Texas Squad Needed ------- ------ North Texas Squad Eric @Hoda ANH-S/ANH-H/ESB, DPRO ** West Texas Squad Needed ------- ------ Central Texas Squad Needed ------- ------ Texas Gulf Coast Squad Jose @TK 71627 Edinburg ANH-S, Recruit Liaison ** ** Imperial Rough Rider Squad Needed ------- ------ Desert Inferno Squad Needed ------- ------ UTAH Alpine Garrison Ben @Neb Sgird Provo/Salt Lake City area ANH-S/HWT, Extended PR/GML Team ** Kyle @FN-1313 Salt Lake City ANH-S ** ** ** VERMONT New England Garrison Green Mountain Squad Daniel @DocDan Central Vermont TFA ** ** VIRGINIA Garrison Tyranus Inferno Squad Jason @BigJasoni Norfolk RO ** ** Galactic Central Squad James @jsilvius Richmond ANH-S, DMBO, GXO ** ** WASHINGTON Cloud City Garrison D'Angelo @DStep Vancouver, WA ANH-S ** ** Garrison Titan Needed ------ ------ WASHINGTON D.C. Old Line Garrison Alex @Alikh D.C. / Baltimore ANH-S ** ** WEST VIRGINIA Garrison Correlia Needed ------ ------ WISCONSIN Wisconsin Garrison Caleb @dejango Green Bay ANH-S ** WYOMING Mountain Garrison Needed ------ ------