Leaderboard

Reading build threads yesterday, I came across someone building thighs and shins by doing the inner cover strip FIRST. This created a nice, strong, flat surface for the outer cover strip to adhere to and I loved the idea. When I went back today to give credit, I couldn't find it to save my life. Sorry Trooper. Anyways, gonna try that with my second forearm - inner strip first and then the outer. I figure if it doesn't work, I can just tear them apart and start again. But for right now it's curing! I did the inner strip this morning and carefully disassembled it this evening to pop on the outer strip. Now the sandwich will cure for a couple days before I move onto the other side. And tomorrow, I'll have my first completed armor piece once the first forearm cures. MUCH EXCITE!! I'm looking forward to finishing the outer edges and cleaning up the ton of glue everywhere. And using the under side of the biceps, I was able to figure out where to trim. Many thanks wook!! No idea why I was squinting and trying to find detail on the front side. Got it roughly sized to me. Flat edge in the front, tapered in the back. I'll trim the edge up tomorrow and add some glue once I have free magnets handy. And on the off chance of helping any future AP kit owners, here's a couple pix of the back side of the biceps before I did the fine trimming. I tried to bring out the highlight details and emphasize the molded in details. And lastly, a new set of tube stripe stickers and some S trim is on the way from trooperbay right now.

LOL! This was what I came up with for me. The pink is the plastic holder part and border, the rest would be etched...

Wow Steve congrats, looking absolutely bad a$$ [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking great. As for the alignment I place white Velcro on the front of my boots and inside the armor. Keeps everything nice and tidy

True, but there's got to be a way to "customize" it... Someone braver than I just has to see how it fully comes apart! I already worked up a "re-imagined" design to replace it, if I can figure it all out...

This list is for Original Trilogy (OT) builds. ANH, ESB and ROTJ) For those who are about to embark on a TK build, in addition to the kit itself and the supplies you will need** to do that we are often asked about other items to complete the ensemble and get approved. These are known as "soft parts", and include the holster, under suit, boots, gloves, neck seal and canvas belt. Be aware that some armorers may include one or more of these items with their kit, but some do not. Also be aware that just because the seller includes them it does not always mean that they are the correct type/style and are eligible for approval (especially at higher levels). When in doubt, always ask your armorer which items are part of the package or feel free to ask here if you have doubts/questions. We are here to help! If there is a particular soft part you need, below is a list of "tried and true" vendors who have an excellent reputation, as well as suggestions for where to get other pieces or even make your own! NOTE: If you are a vendor and would like to add your sales thread here or you have a tutorial on how to make your own please PM me before posting here. **https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/page/11/ White Canvas Belt: NOTE: not all belts are created equal! The belts used in the films were firm and sturdy with no creasing or sagging. Vendor- Rob Kittel https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/ Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/stormtrooper-sandtrooper-white-canvas-belt Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/665-howto-a-guide-to-making-a-canvas-bel Neck Seal: Vendor: Darman https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/ Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/ Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/headgear-neck-seals/stormtrooper-neck-seal Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34548-10-diy-neck-seal-v1/ Holster: NOTE: Holster straps differ for various costumes. Please see the CRL for your particular style here: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Vendor- Darman https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16744-leather-e-11-holsters-35/ Trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/ammo-pouches/stormtrooper-genuine-leather-blaster-holster Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23643-making-a-holster-for-anh-stunt/ Boots: Vendor: Imperial Boots https://www.imperialboots.com/product/421/ NOTE: Imperial boots are 100% approvable at every level, but they only open once a month for orders. They can run a bit small, so I suggest ordering a half size larger than what you normally wear. Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27565-how-i-did-my-boots-tkboots-alternative/ Under Suit: Under suits can be purchased from many sources, and you have the choice of one or two piece types. I have found Amazon to be among the least expensive sources. The easiest thing to do is visit that site and search for it, for instance "Mens compression suit top black long sleeve". Examples: Mens compression suit top black long sleeve- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mens+compression+suit+top+black+long+sleeve&ref=nb_sb_noss Mens compression suit pants black- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mens+compression+suit+pants+black&ref=nb_sb_noss Vendor Trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/star-wars-stormtrooper-sandtrooper-black-undersuit NOTE: While some prefer the one-piece type, the two piece tends to be better when you have to... uhhh, let's just say "answer nature's call". IMPORTANT! When ordering an under suit, be aware that many have printed logos, white stitching etc. These can not be visible while wearing your armor. Hand guards (Flexible) Vendor: justjoseph63 - https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35702-fs-flexible-hand-guards-for-centurion-level/ Vendor: Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/flexible-hand-guards-in-white-black-or-plain Gloves: NOTE: As per the CRL for Basic 501st OT TK approval, gloves must be all black with no visible straps/logos/designs and can be rubber, Nomex, leather or a leather-like material. For Level 2 (Expert Infantry) and Level 3 (Centurion) they must be made of rubber or a rubber-like material. I highly suggest finding ones with a long wrist, which prevents it from sliding out from underneath your forearm armor. Vendor: Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/accurate-trooper-black-latex-gloves Vendor: justjoseph63- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49156-fs-rubber-gloves-for-expert-infantrycenturion-level/ eBay is also an alternative. Just search Black Nomex (or leather, rubber etc.) gloves. Be sure when ordering the rubber type from eBay that you are purchasing the heavier duty type and not the disposable kind. Thigh Garter system: Vendor: Pencap510 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29991-thigh-garter-system/ NOTE: These are not a requirement, but they are AWESOME! Pauldrons- (For Heavy Weapons Troopers) Vendor: Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/

Howdy Troopers!! Starting a thread here has been on my list of things to do for nearly 18 months. Shameful, but... I work a ton and tend to be pretty forgetful. Also moving and a ton of other excuses kept me from starting some armor. I got a big brown box something like 18 months ago. Maybe longer? Ages. It's sat and been dusty. Meanwhile, the brother armor belonging to Scimitar has been built and trooping around happily for months. It's an exact double. Everything Eric bought two of everything and shipped half to me. Which is awesome because I *have* everything I need to do the armor. But... clueless about putting it together. Anyways, more build less talk. Eric pre-trimmed this bucket for me (many thanks) before shipping it off. And 18 months later, I spent something like 90 minutes painting the frown on. I... can't explain how it took me that long. I've not painted something BIG in ages. I usually use toothpicks and micro brushes on Hot Wheels. Trying to get an even coat of grey on the frown was rough for this toothpick painter. And rougher still was learning that I got some paint into the gums and had to fix it. lol About a week later, I got to here. Not perfect but pretty decent. Good enough to move forward with the armor while occasionally running around with a bucket on my head. Yeah, getting to wear my bucket for the first time was a proud day.

Helping my buddy get a used Anovos Sandy that he bought up to spec. It’s been fairly light adjustments except that his thighs are built like a cartoon turkey drumstick lol Knees are average, tops are huge. So far, we took a big piece of ABS to the inside that spanned the entire triangle gap we need, now we are gluing a piece on the outside cut to fit down in the gap. We tried any other way but the gap on top was just too huge. Once we ABS paste the seams, we have to figure out how to fix the bottom, since now the bottom has an upside down V shape... I think its too severe to say he notched it out ... Anyway, just looking for input from the experts. Thanks guys. And please disregard my assistant photobombing [emoji38] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With a heap of thanks to previous build threads from multiple members, particularly "@Ruthar" "@ukswrath" and "@JAFO", thanks to jimmi for supplying an awesome kit, and thanks to my own blood, sweat and tears (literally all 3), I am super proud to have had approved my own TK after a reasonably accurate 270 hours effort over a 6wk window. Sent using Tapatalk

Good evening everyone, I just got approval for my ANH stunt TK and I have been working on building HWT components to eventually add that to my repertoire. That being said, I have a couple of questions about the pack. I have built a pack based on several threads on the boards here (images below), but I want to know what the verdict is on E-11 mount on the side of the pack. Is that something that is allowable for submission? I've seen it here and there and I really like the idea of having my E-11 strapped to the pack as a "backup" weapon. I've added my own variation of a mount to my pack, but it should be pretty easy to remove if i need to. Second question. How do you all run the shoulder straps for the pack over/around/under/through the regular plastic TK shoulder covers/straps? Every time i've tried the pack on with my armor, the pack straps keep getting tangled up with the plastic shoulder straps and the elastic shoulder straps. I'm worried i'm gonna wind up snapping one of the plastic straps trying to get the pack on. These are the straps i have currently for the pack: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078VZXDM5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thanks all!

So this is going to be a fun one I'm building something for my armor. You get to tell me where it goes. Maybe I'll send ya something in a few months The Idea Fast Forward a bit Side View Getting E6000 All over the place as usual DRY FASTER!!!!

I just purchased this kit second hand unbuilt. Is there a inventory piece list and or a instruction booklet that supposed to come with it. I remember when I got my first FX kit back in 2001 it did include this info. I'm having trouble posting a pic. Imgur is confusing, I just can't figure out how add my photos to it so I can resize them to place here

Yeah, I did that. It worked great on the test pieces of silicone I made, but not the supplied hand guards. Weird

Chris sent me a new screw for the handle but I was unable to insert it in his hole. After measuring, I realized the screw was too big for the hole. I rebuild the thread (M6 diameter) and the screw. Before that, I tested my method on the screw I’ve destroyed (it is in aluminum so it’s easy). Et voilà ! Don't know if US thread are different from European one ? There is a little hole near the “S” selector but I’ve no screw for it. I don’t know if a screw is missing or if it’s just … a hole. No screw on Fieldmarshall pictures. What is this hole for ? Any idea ?

Hi. You could try comparing what you have to this thread; There are other AM builds in that section as well.

Good luck. Like what was previously said start a build thread and throw some pics up. I have AM and might be able to help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome paintup on that bin

Congrats on your purchase. There is no parts list or instructions that come with that kit. Send me a picture and I'll be able to tell you what your missing from AM is anything. Check out the build thread on here, They construction hasn't changed much between makers. Good luck and if you need anything just ask.

Nice job on this so far, Pat, and EXCELLENT idea of putting a full size reinforcement behind the shim! I would actually extend the mobility cut as seen below, and the back cover strip will hide the bottom of the V shape where the existing bottoms come together. Some ABS paste, a few hours of sanding/polishing and you should be good to go! Hint: To make life easier, don't go overboard with the ABS paste. You want to use just enough to fill the join with a tiny bit of a "hump" to make the join even after sanding, but not too much. Adding it too thick can add a lot of time removing the excess and getting it smooth. Keep up posted on your progress, and add lots of detailed photos. The reason behind that is because it would make a great tutorial for those in the same boat.

To give it a bit more flexibility at the bottom and allow it to sit closer to the front of the calf, it couldn't hurt to remove a bit more from the lower part.

The mount for your E-11 (while a cool idea) would probably not pass basic HWT requirements if your GML adheres to the the CRL, as it specifically states "...no extra greeblies." (extra parts not shown in the CRL photo). The requirements were changed a few years back because people were putting all sorts of items like video monitors, etc. on their packs. When trooping, individuality is fine, but you want to look pretty much like the person next to you if they are wearing the same costume. This is one of the reasons we have the CRLs in place. As Tony mentioned, what you do after approval is up to you. I actually mounted my E-11 to my pack similar to what you did at one point, but found that the extra weight caused the pack to lean and shift to the left so I removed the mounting straps and abandoned the idea. Plus, even having even that little bit of extra weight can take it's toll after an hour or so of wearing it, trust me. As for strapping, I used 1 inch wide black nylon, attached by doubling over the ends and bolting it in to the plastic areas as seen below. By using the 1 inch wide nylon it allows the straps to rest between my shoulder bridge/shoulder bells so it puts no weight on any particular piece which can cause cracking. Some use the padded type of straps, but I am leery about putting any extra weight on my shoulder bridges/bells that could cause them to crack or split over time. This is the way I personally put mine on: 1. Connect the clips on the left top/bottom straps. 2. Have someone hold the pack while I put my left arm through. I make sure the strap sits in the space between the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge. 3. Hold the pack with my left arm while someone connects the clips on the right side. 4. Ask that same person to attach the shoulder pauldron. 5. Done! In case you are wondering what the extra strap is for, I attach my shoulder MP40 ammo pouch to that. It just loops through the strap on the back of the ammo pouch and holds it in place. By the way, AWESOME job on that pack build! If I could make one suggestion, it would be to scuff it up a bit to look more "battle worn". If I can be of any help sourcing HWT items or if you need specific help, please feel free to PM me!

looking good Andrew. I would adjust your ammo belt height up a touch so it sits on the bottom of the main Abb button plate, it is something the DO's will look at if you apply for Expert Infantry level.

Can do that. Measuring these 3mm is always tricky because of the round foot of the ammoboxes. Had the same issue with the pack on the thigh

The Antiquities shop (Dok-Ondar's), where the Kyber Crystals and sabers and such were... There was a whole bunch of them on the wall if you go left when you walk in, across from the Crystals... Yep! I am also a huge Disney nerd... Same here! LOL!

My first trial fit with my nearly completed armour. I need to paint the helmet screws, tighten the sides a biit, attach the straps between the biceps and forarems and put the hand plates on the gloves. I'm wearing Nomex gloves in these pics, but I will be making a rubber pair as well. I can see that the camera should be lower, the left forearm is sliding down and the neck "bib" should be under the shirt. Anything else that should be changed? My spine/neck isn't totally straight, (mild scoliosis) so I hope I'll be able to stand straight enough to get better pics when submitting.

congrats brother!

Don't panic, it doesn't have to be perfect lol

Congratulations Steve, looking great

No Denmark if I recall correctly.

That is interesting. If my wife knew she would shoot me for not catching that lol

I would suggest positioning it a little closer.

I feel a dark web sales page in the works lol JK

Now that I’m interested in.

Nice! Too bad Disney refuses to personalize anything Star Wars, this would be a nice addition to my collection.

Congratulations trooper

Your certificate was added to your request post here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40769-request-your-eib-certificate-here/?do=findComment&comment=658427 Just click the link provided there to access a digital copy of your certificate to save and print out. Congrats on EIB!

i need to adjust the leg straps to even them out and adjust the gasket so I can move the thighs up slightly back still seem huge. I think I also need to add shims to the side wings so I can connect the chest plate to the upper back plate. Currently they do not really come close because I think o trimmed them too short and again too soon

Great build! Jimmi makes a good kit. Nice looking Wookiees, too.

Here's what worked for me. As a couple folks already noted, a Dremel rotary tool with a sanding drum used from the inside of the helmet face removes waste plastic quickly and evenly. From the inside, those teeth openings are like little domes from the vacuum-molding process. The idea is that you use the sanding drum to simply level off the backs of those domes to create the teeth openings. Also, by doing the plastic removal from inside, you can see exactly how deeply set the teeth openings are, allowing you to better judge how much plastic to remove. After removing most of the waste, you can sharpen the opening -- and remove any "flange" left over from the sanding -- with a razor knife. And as JustJoseph noted above, those inexpensive detail files from Lowe's add the finishing touch to square off the corners. Hope this helps, and good luck on your journey! A.J.

Great Build, Welcome aboard trooper!!

Awesome and congratulations

You should post up a couple of photos so we can see the extent of it, that way we can give you some solid feedback and reassurances.

I got a little better with the cover strips. Turned out all I had to do was make a whole lot of cuts against a ruler (as a guide) instead of a few hard cuts which made me loose stability. So the front cover strip on the left thigh is dried and secure. I was nervous doing the back part......making sure it aligned and the hardest part was eyeballing the middle of the back for the cover strip. I decided to do my best and make out the middle, cut out the excess plastic and butt the ends together. Now I am just waiting for it to dry and hoping if it all ends well I can do the same thing on the right thigh. If this back cover strip sticks together well then the only thing left to do for this thigh is sand down/even the return edge and add snaps to attach to a belt.

Thank you all for these good advices ! I've wet-sanded it with super fine sand paper + water and after that I used a dremel with cutting compound. The result is better. But I'm not totaly satisfied. Will try to use novus (I've some for my TK helmets). Anyway, I've ordered another lens to Chris yesterday.

Hi Adam. Better late than never. Nice work so far. Be warned when using the heat gun - things can go south pretty quick. If you can, try a hot water bath (stick ABS in boiling water for a minute - shape - and hold under cold water to lock in new shape). One little thing - it looks like you put your tube stripes on the wrong sides (left on right, right on left). This won't affect basic approval, but it is recommended for higher level approval. And be sure to paint the screws on the helmet white. Some of the trim lines can be hard to see. I had to use the underside of the pieces to see the trim line in a few places. I can send you images of where I trimmed by biceps if you need some visual guidance. Good luck with the build!

I like the big wheels of my Husky case, even though it's heavy. For troops where I can't fit my bin (very rare), I generally just opt for a simpler costume, rather than messing with repacking everything. It's easy to toss everything into the 50gal Husky bin, including extras, a substantial repair kit, helmet, etc... I could fit even more if I left out the padding, but there's really no need with a bin this size. I experimented with a lot of packing options, but have settled on this as the best comprise among ease of packing (with minimal disassembly), protection of the armor (I have 1/4" sheets of foam between each layer, and wanted to be extremely protective of the shoulder bridges so they're not under any strain), and fitting everything I need in there. Bottom layers: main clamshell halves, offset for betting protection of the shoulder bridges (also boots in the corners, not pictured) Next layers: Thighs, shins, arms, etc, all nested: Next layers: Pretty much everything else, including helmet: There's even room for a (plastic) mirror mounted in the lid! Super handy.

I need to use a smaller Sterilite 16 gallon footlocker bin from Wally World to fit in my small trunk. Like other's have said, being creative with packing it all up is key. I've heard it described as being just like Tetris.

I read @ukswrathbuild thread and I ask several things to @justjoseph63and @Alay Also @Alayis selling centurion strapping set..they're great Goodluck with your build !

I clam shell into my torso- I did it with black elastic and Centurion rivets. The other side is standard Tandy snaps. Definitely an advocate for the clam shell approach- one swift movement and your whole torso is on! Then I have my shoulder bell/bicep/forearm all connected, so I slip each arm on in one go. Very effective for quick in/quick out. What are your 1 - 5 pieces made of? Plastic or metal?